Bourbon

Booker’s 2018-04 “Kitchen Table”

Booker’s “Kitchen Table”
Batch 2018-04

6 Years, 8 Months, 7 Days
64% ABV
$70 – $80
Website

We would like to thank Beam Suntory and Multiply for sending us a sample to review.

What the Master Distiller Says:

It’s special for me to name the fourth and final batch of Booker’s Bourbon for 2018 after a place that was so important to Dad and the creation of Booker’s as we know it today.

This batch is made from barrels produced on three different production dates and stored in six different locations.  The breakdown is as follows:

  • 7% came from the 4th floor of 9-story warehouse E
  • 14% came from the 5th floor of 9-story warehouse E
  • 4% came from the 6th floor of 9-story warehouse E
  • 24% came from the 5th floor of 9-story warehouse J
  • 44% came from the 6th floor of 9-story warehouse J
  • 7% came from the 6th floor of 9-story warehouse D

This batch has a beautiful color that is a deep chestnut and has a robust , flavor rich taste profile.  The nose is a rich balance of vanilla and oak that comes from aging in white oak barrels for more than six years.  The finish is balanced and pleasant and does not overpower your taste buds.  In Dad’s honor, I’ve enjoyed this batch with a healthy splash of water, also called “Kentucky Tea” which was one of his signature ways to enjoy his Booker’s.

– Fred Noe, Beam Family’s 7th Generation Master Distiller

What Gary Says

Nose:  Rickhouse oak, chocolate cocoa with caramel and vanilla; subtle smoke and baking spices.
Palate:  Warm, a tad sharp with caramel and dark chocolate, a hint of peanut butter before pepper spice kicks in; some water really brings out the chocolate and softens the edges, peanutty.
Finish:  Moderate to long, with lingering cocoa and pepper spice.
Comments:  Booker’s was the first “high proof” bourbon (or whiskey for that matter) that I cut my teeth on. I don’t recall the batch (this would have been 2011?) but once I got through the burn – it was delicious. Is there variation between batches? Sure, but of the several I’ve tried – I don’t recall any I thought were poor or ‘below expectations’. Some have stood out as better than others, but all in all – Booker’s is pretty consistent.  Even their web-page lists the same tasting notes at the top for all batches (even when you change the year).  That’s not a knock in the least; that’s a testament to having dialed into a flavor profile that they and their fans like.  This batch is no different; a solid high-proof bourbon that takes water rather well. One note that stood out for me (which I don’t always get from Booker’s) is peanut butter, which is strange since I get a peanutty note in a lot of Beam bourbon products (I tend to think of it as their ‘House Style’).

Rating: Stands Out

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Stocking the Whiskey Bar . . . in 2019

Richard wrote a great piece on this topic back in 2011, but as there have been a lot of changes in the whiskey/whisky landscape since then – I thought it was time to provide an update.  Much of this is shamelessly borrowed from that piece as I thought Richard nailed the approach; just wanted this to be helpful on it’s own if you hadn’t read the original (or don’t want to as it brings tears to recall what was available at what price just 8 yrs back!).

So more friends and family seem to be either asking for whiskey when they visit, or at least more are aware of it.  If you’re the type of person who really only keeps one bottle around, and folks will like that or have water, this article probably won’t interest you.  Note we’re not judging on this – everyone is different (although – you may have noticed this is a whiskey blog, so let’s assume you’ve got a bottle or two of whiskey at home and are looking to take it to the next level).

One clarification – we’re talking about stocking a whiskey bar – NOT a whiskey collection (which is completely different).

“How many bottles should I plan on getting for a base stock in my home whiskey bar?”

It depends. If you’re just looking for bourbon or scotch then probably three well chosen bottles will get you started. If you want a nice cross section of multiple styles then I would say five to eight. It really is up to you. However, I will caution you that once you get north of 10 bottles and start heading towards 20 you starting getting into collection territory. Again, there’s nothing wrong with that but it’s a slippery slope. 😉

“How much should I plan to spend?”

Not as little as you could have spent 10 to 20 years ago, but I suppose that can be said about most things.  But you can set a budget and not break the bank.  Or, you can go top shelf across the board and spend what used to buy a quality used car.  I’ll try to give you a few examples at various prices for each category. That way you can decide how much you want to spend based on personal preference and financial situation. Please note that the prices listed are for a standard U.S. 750ml bottle.

“Where do I begin?”

With scotch and bourbon a good framework would be to get a mixer, a classic, and a gem.

Mixer:  What I’m really referring to here is a table whiskey (not “bottom shelf” stuff you mix because that’s the only way you enjoy it). You should use the same rule of thumb for mixed drinks and cocktails as you do for cooking with wine. That means that even your table whiskey should be something you wouldn’t mind drinking by itself. There are plenty of inexpensive and tasty whiskeys out there so you shouldn’t have to buy rot gut just to use as a mixer. Here are some examples.

ScotchJohnnie Walker Black (& Double Black), Chivas Regal 12 Year Old, Glenlivet 12 Year Old, Glenfiddich 12 Year Old, and Glenmorangie Original can all be found in the mid to upper $30s.

BourbonWild Turkey 101, Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Elijah Craig Small Batch (review is of 12 yr, but pretty similar) and Old Grand Dad Bottled In Bond can all be found for $20-$25.

Classic: This should be something that typifies the category. That “used to be $1,000 a bottle but is now pushing $3,000 a bottle” of Macallan 30 Year Old may taste like heaven but when I say classic I’m thinking of a reasonably priced bottle that is pleasant and displays many of the standard characteristics of scotch or bourbon.  Again, here are a few examples in two different price buckets.

Scotch for $50 or lessHighland Park 12 Year Old ($47), Compass Box Great King Street Blends ($45-50; the Artist’s, Glasgow, or any single/marrying cask will be solid), Bowmore 12 Year Old ($47), and Balvenie 12 Yr Double Wood ($50)

Scotch for $50 to $60 – Talisker 10 Year Old ($55), Glendronach 12 Year Old ($60), and Macallan 12 Year Old ($55)

Bourbon in the low-to-mid $30s – Knob Creek ($30), Old Grand Dad 114 ($31), and Four Roses Single Barrel ($35)

Bourbon up to $50 – Knob Creek Single Barrel 120 proof ($46), Wild Turkey Rare Breed ($50), and Baker’s ($50)

Gem:  This is where you can stay reserved, or get really crazy.  Up until now you’ve probably dropped between $130 to $175 on four bottles of whiskey (2 bourbon, 2 scotch). The notion behind these bottles is to have something exceptional. Think of it as a special whiskey or two. You can lay these on your snobby or aficionado friends to get the approving nod or you can use them to show someone how something really good tastes. Alternatively, you can think of these bottles as a little more aggressive or obscure in taste. If Glenfiddich is your middle of the road then maybe one of these bottles can be a super peaty Laphroaig. You can drop $70 on one of these or several hundred. It’s up to you. Below are a few suggestions but let your interests guide your decisions.

ScotchLaphroaig Cask Strength ($70), Lagavulin 16 Year Old ($95), Glenlivet 18 Year Old ($100), Glenfiddich 18 Year Old ($110), Compass Box Spice Tree Extravaganza ($130)*, Compass Box Flaming Heart ($130)*, Highland Park 18 Year Old ($130), Balvenie 21 Year Old Port Wood ($220), Dewar’s Signature ($220), and Macallan 18 Year Old ($230)

* These are limited editions which I’ve intentionally avoided to this point, but unlike with bourbon – these tend to be available longer on the shelves.  I was picking up the 2012 release of Flaming Heart in 2015 (when the next one came around), and for the money – these are exceptional bottles when you see one.

BourbonWild Turkey Kentucky Spirit ($60), Elijah Craig Barrel Proof ($60), Blanton’s ($65)**, Rock Hill Farms ($65)**, Booker’s ($75), and Four Roses Single Barrel Selections (non-OBSV recipes, can run $65 – $80)

** These used to be widely available, and I know – the point of this refresh was because Richard’s post initially included things like George T. Stagg when you could get one for $75 at the store! So I’m asterisking them to acknowledge that, but they’re not in the same ‘never see in the store’ breadth as BTAC or Pappy.

Now you may have noticed that I’ve listed both blends and single malts for scotch under each category. This is intentional. Both are very tasty and should be considered equally. I really think that you should consider getting at least one blend and at least one single malt. One is not inferior to the other regardless of what you hear from scotch snobs.

Others
Scotch and bourbon are great but there’s a wider and ever expanding world of whiskey out there waiting to be sampled. Personally, I would recommend a good rye that you can drink and mix as a staple. Rittenhouse Bottled-In-Bond ($23) or Bulleit Rye ($25) are great examples. If you’ve only ever used bourbon in your cocktails then get ready for a treat. A good rye cocktail is hard to beat.

I also think you should have a bottle of something a little different. It will allow you and your guests to expand your whiskey horizons and give you something interesting to compare and contrast. A nice bottle of Hibiki Japanese Harmony ($70), Redbreast 12 Year Old Irish Pot Still Whiskey ($70), or Amrut Fusion Indian Whisky ($80) would all be nice additions.

“What about other spirits to have on hand?”

Believe it or not, I don’t only drink whiskey. I often enjoy other fine brown spirits. Around the holidays I especially enjoy a nice brandy after a big meal. Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac ($46), Germain-Robin Shareholder’s Reserve ($65), or Kelt XO Cognac ($180) are all nice examples.

If a nice aged rum is more your speed then maybe a bottle of Cruzan Single Barrel ($30), Appleton Estate Extra 12 Year Old Rum ($32), or Bacardi Reserva Limitada Rum Anejo ($100) would give you something nice to sip with guests (and unlike the whiskey, the prices haven’t gone crazy in the last 8 years!).

“Is there anything else I need?”

It’s probably a good idea to have a few other basic ingredients on hand for cocktails. Below is a suggested list but you can add or subtract as you see fit. Remember, this list is focused on whiskey cocktails. If you’re doing a White Russian or a Sex on the Beach then that’s something entirely different.

  • Simple Syrup (make your own)
  • Sodas (Coca-cola, diet cola, ginger ale, club soda, tonic water, etc.)
  • Bitters (Angostura, Peychaud’s, etc.)
  • Fruit – Juice and whole fruit (Lemons, oranges, maraschino cherries, etc.)
  • Vermouth – Sweet and Dry
  • Liqueurs

I would recommend that you actually look at the kind of cocktails you plan to make and back into a list of additional ingredients instead of blinding buying stuff that the guy on the internet said you had to have. Having a huge selection of cocktail accouterments looks cool but if you never use it then it’s a waste.

Of course, glasses are a must (although whether dedicated glassware is in order is entirely up to you).  We share a run down on basic glassware here (and if you’re only stocking one – I’d go with your basic rocks glasses).

“Wait a minute. What about vodka and tequila?”

Like your mom said about little Scotty Powell down the street…”You don’t need friends like that.” In all seriousness, we were talking about stocking a nice selection of whiskeys. I could go on and on with my belligerent opinions of the vodka and tequila culture that’s exploded in the last 15 to 20 years but that’s not the point of this article. Look, if you need to have vodka and tequila, and a good host probably should, then you don’t need to fret over the bottles as much as you might think. Probably about 99% of vodka and tequila consumption in the U.S. occurs with some type of mixer. As long as you’re not buying the stuff off the bottom shelf in the plastic jugs you’ll probably be okay with the majority of brands when making a vodka tonic, vodka and cranberry, or margarita. Personally, I buy Kirkland Signature brand vodka and anejo tequila at Costco. Both are very good quality and ridiculously well priced. If you’re worried that your snobby friends will scoff because you have Costco brand or Stolichnaya vodka instead of Grey Goose or Ciroc then pick up a nice decanter to keep it in. It will class up your bar a little and then if they ask what it is you can tell them whatever the hell you want.;)

If you’re in a quandary the next time you go to the liquor store to stock up then I hope this helps. As always, these are merely my opinions on the subject. Let your taste and wallet be your guide. If you have any questions or need additional suggestions please send me an email. Enjoy the holidays and share some good whiskey with good company.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard
(updated by Gary)

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Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Old Bourbon

Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Old Bourbon

40% ABV
$60
Website

We would like to thank Beam Suntory and Multiply for sending us a sample to review.

What the Distiller Says

Basil Hayden’s® is excited to release Basil Hayden’s® 10 Year Old Bourbon, a special, extra-aged limited offering just in time for the holiday season. Debuting on shelves in December 2018, Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Old Bourbon will return in limited quantities each holiday season.

Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Old Bourbon features the same high-rye bourbon recipe that Basil Hayden’s fans know and love, amplified by aging the bourbon in American Oak barrels longer to offer an added layer of complexity to an already distinctive flavor profile. Basil Hayden’s trademark spice shines through as the perfect complement to the caramel sweetness and wood flavors, making the whiskey a memorable one for fans and newcomers alike. Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Old Bourbon continues to embody the spirit of the
brand while remaining approachable at 80 proof.

TASTING NOTES
Playing on the same great flavors that Basil Hayden’s Bourbon fans know and love, this limited-edition release offers the following characteristics:
Proof: 80
Color: Golden Amber
Aroma: Big oak, hints of char, vanilla and rye
Taste: Oak balanced by caramel sweetness and rye spice
Finish: Lightly smoky with a subtle hint of char
Sipping Suggestions: Best enjoyed sipped neat or on the rocks

What Gary Says

Nose:  Rich, chocolate orange, oak, vanilla w/ anise and a hint of clove.
Palate:  Soft and creamy mouthfeel, sweet  with vanilla, citrus spice, salted caramel and a note of mint.
Finish:  Moderately long, damp with trailing citrus notes and oak.
Comments:  In a world where lately the big limited editions are high proof, Basil Hayden stays true to its brand with an 80 proof pour that delivers a lot of flavor – while maintaining the subtle/nuance that the brand is known for.  Basil Hayden was 8 year age stated originally, having lost that a few years back – but this shows how lovely the whiskey can be with a few extra years in the barrel.  It is Basil Hayden with the volume turned up (not ‘cranked up, break the knob off’, but definitely a step or two up).  The citrus notes (very ‘rye-like’, which isn’t a surprise given the high-rye mashbill) are familiar, but the chocolate was a nice touch that I don’t usually get with Basil Hayden.  I can’t find anything here which would leave fans of Basil Hayden disappointed, and a fair amount that I think they’re really enjoy.

Rating: Stands Out

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Maker’s Mark Private Select – Tower Wine & Spirits 2018

Maker’s Mark Private Select

Exclusive Oak Stave Selection – Tower Wine & Spirits
55.25% ABV
$70
Website

What the Distiller Says

At Maker’s Mark, our wood-finishing series was created to explore new, unique expressions of our signature whisky. Beginning as fully matured Maker’s Mark® at cask strength, Private Select is created by adding 10 custom wood finishing staves to each barrel. It’s then aged in our limestone cellar to extract a unique, flavorful taste profile. Participants in this special barrel program get their say in the selection of these wooden staves. The finishing staves can be any combination of five flavor profiles chosen especially for this program. With 1,001 possible stave combinations, each expression of Private Select has a customized finish and taste profile that is unique, yet undeniably Maker’s®. Maker’s Mark Private Select® is available in select markets and also at our distillery.

Below are the notes on the different staves
The Maker’s 46® stave: The one that started this whole experiment. It delivers notes of dried fruit, vanilla and spice that you may be familiar with if you’ve tried Maker’s 46.
The Baked American Pure stave: Baked American Pure is American oak that’s slowly toasted. It adds notes of brown sugar, vanilla, caramel and spice.
The Seared French Cuvée stave: Seared French Cuvée is a French oak stave that’s cooked with infrared heat. It imparts toasty notes of oak and caramel.
The Roasted French Mocha stave: Roasted French Mocha is French oak cooked on high in a convection oven. It adds pleasant traces of char, maple and cacao.
The Toasted French Spice stave: Toasted French Spice is a French oak stave, cooked at both high and low temperatures in a convection oven. This stave has a flavor profile of smoke, coumarin and spice.

The finishing with the additional staves is typically 9 weeks.

This specific barrel’s stave selections were:
Baked American Pure 2: 3
Seared French Cuvée: 1
Maker’s 46: 1
Roasted French Mocha: 4
Toasted French Spice: 1

What Gary Says

Nose:  On the sharp side, nutty caramel corn with cocoa, cinnamon and vanilla; subtle wood and leather notes; bit of water brings out more spice notes (reminds me more of a rye mashbill bourbon in terms of spice pop).
Palate:  Bright/sharp and sweet, vanilla wafers with caramel drizzled, shaved chocolate and toffee with a dusting of cinnamon; bit of water actually thickens the mouthfeel, tones down the sharp edges, amplifying the caramel and bringing subtle fruity notes.
Finish:  Moderately long and drying, with just a hint of pepper spice.
Comments:  This particular bottling has more of an edge and kick than standard Maker’s Mark – which you might expect with the higher proof alone. The finishing staves do add a really nice spicy character that I don’t pull out of Maker’s Mark typically. For the longest time, Maker’s Mark was a one label producer, which was the exception. But since coming out with Maker’s 46 just a few years back, they’ve stepped up their game with not only the cask strength, but these private selections. Most distilleries have a private barrel program, and while true that each barrel is unique – if you pull a barrel of say Buffalo Trace (for illustrative purposes only, not to single them out)- that barrel was destined to be part of a batch of Buffalo Trace, so in many cases it isn’t going to be too far from that brand profile. The 1,001 stave combinations really provides purchasers the chance to get something even more unique than the typical private barrel selection. While I applaud this innovation, I do wish they offered some aging “tiers”. I get logistically they need to have some predictability, but I can’t help but think what the same stave combination would do with say 12 weeks versus 9. I dunno – maybe they experimented and found too fewer than 9 and you’re not really getting much, and much over there it changes the profile from being “Maker’s Mark finished with” to something entirely different. Either way, if you’re a fan of Maker’s Mark, I wouldn’t shy away from trying one if you have the chance.

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon

Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon
44% ABV
$40
Website

What the Distiller Says
SMALL BATCH BOURBON WHISKEY
A traditional bourbon, from an untraditional place.
Our original, flagship, and defining product, the award-winning Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey.

ONLY WYOMING INGREDIENTS
The Big Horn Basin has everything we need to make great bourbon, and it is important to us to source our ingredients locally. The consistency and uniqueness of these whiskey elements make for a better bourbon that stands apart. It’s the Whiskey of the West.

LOCAL CORN, WHEAT, BARLEY, RYE AND NO GMOS.
WE KNOW WHO GROWS. Brent Rageth from Rageth Farm in Byron, Wyoming has worked with Wyoming Whiskey from the start to select strains of non-GMO corn, wheat, barley, and winter rye for specific starch and sugar yields, the building blocks of bourbon making. We use a corn strain that matures in 92 days, and is hand-selected by Brent. Rageth Farms also delivers summer and winter wheat that is grown exclusively for Wyoming Whiskey, and a winter rye that will be the key ingredient for a couple of rye products that are on the near horizon.

THE YEAST
THE SECRET STUFF. While our Mash Bill is in clear view, ask any distiller about their yeast and you’ll usually get a deafening silence. We’ll give you this much. To attain our profile, we use a combination of 2 yeasts; a high-yield yeast and a second proprietary yeast that yields a bit less, but produces a slightly fruitier alcohol.

TASTING NOTES
COLOR: dark amber
NOSE: floral, with a hint of vanilla bean and caramel pudding
PALATE: floral with brown baking spices and browned butter, vanilla crème, caramel, and a hint of cinnamon
MOUTHFEEL: light and smooth with vanilla bean and cinnamon spice filling the mouth cavity, hint of mint
FINISH: medium length finish with toffee. Spice and vanilla fade.

What Gary Says
Nose:  Vanilla flan, caramel toffee with a hint of nutmeg, oak, and subtle floral notes.
Palate:  Sweet caramel creme candies, vanilla, honey, subtle uptick of cinnamon and nutmeg.
Finish:  Moderate in length, soft with vanilla notes fading.
Comments:  Many ‘craft’ distilleries start up with young product aged in small barrels. When Wyoming Whiskey got started, it was younger (labels included a 3 yr age statement), but they age all of their whiskey in new, 53 gallon white American Oak barrels from Independent Stave (char level 4 for those keeping score at home). For those unfamiliar with their history, Steve Nally (former Maker’s Mark master distiller and 2007 Bourbon Hall of Fame inductee) was their first master distiller, and was instrumental in the setup of the distillery, selection of the mashbill, and I’m sure insisted on the use of 53 gallon barrels (not to suggest anyone else in Wyoming Whiskey was looking to do different). His experience was invaluable at establishing a quality distillery. He left a few years back to return to Kentucky where he had lived most of his life, and while his involvement at Wyoming Whiskey isn’t any secret, I was disappointed that there is zero mention of him on their web-site (which otherwise is very well done, with a lot of information). I get that they want to focus on the here/now, and the current distillery team, but seems to me that if a member of the Bourbon Hall of Fame helped setup my distillery – and I’m emphasizing tradition, etc – I’d call that out.
Enough about all that – the whiskey itself is a pleasant, soft, smooth sipping bourbon. I believe fans of wheated bourbons (such as Maker’s Mark, the Weller lineup, Larceny, the Old Fitz lineup, etc) would find this a pleasant enough pour. It isn’t a complex pour, and at 5 yrs old (per their web-site, this is 5 yrs old; the label inexplicably lacks any age statement) you wouldn’t expect a lot of complexity. There isn’t anything offputting. In fact, and I mean this as a sincere compliment, I would never have guessed this as a “craft whiskey”.  Aged in 53 gallon barrels for a respectable period of time, and lacking those tannic notes or ‘young whiskey’ notes often associated with craft whiskey, this stands out big time in that category.  That said, for the money, there are plenty of other bourbons I’d pick up (although to be fair, I’m more of a rye-mashbill bourbon kinda guy). If I lived in or near the state of Wyoming and wanted to support local business, different story – I wouldn’t hesitate to pick one up (or explore their other offerings). I do understand the pricing difference (larger distilleries have long paid the enormous expense associated with their fixed costs), and if you’re supporting other local business, this would be a bargain in comparison to most craft whiskey I’ve had (and not just a bargain, but a better executed whiskey!)
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Wyoming Whiskey and Colangelo & Partners for sending us a sample to review.

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