Scottish Whisky

G & MacP Tasting At Louis 649

Last night, I attended a tasting at Louis 649 in the East Village/Alphabet City.  The tasting was sponsored by Gordon & MacPhail.

I’ve been meaning to get to Louis for some time now.  My buddy Tristan is somewhat of a regular and speaks fondly of their whisk(e)y  selection.  A look behind the bar tells me why.  It’s not the largest selection in the city, but I have to respect a bar that stocks Sazerac, several Tuthilltown whiskeys and an interesting assortment of single malts.

As I sat down at the bar, I immediately felt like this was not going to be like any other tasting I’ve attended.  The other attendees were not your usual whisky tasting crowd.  From the folks I talked to, it seems that most of the crowd consisted of bartenders, alt.-writers/bloggers, cocktail crafters, and even one Absinthe distiller.  I have to say, it was very refreshing to see a room full of tattooed and pierced people and other eccentrics enjoying single malt whisky.  This is part of the crowd we apostles are hoping to reach.  Bringing whisky out of the realm of dimly lit, smoke-filled bars full of suits.  There were even a large number of women in attendance (close to half the audience)!  It made me smile quite broadly.  The fact that the crowd asked some really astute questions and got a little rowdy, made me smile even more.

The brand ambassador was an hour late to the event, but our host (Gianfranco Verga) started pouring anyway.  For me, this was nice.  I was able to give the first pour (five different drams) some real time and attention while we waited.  Here are my notes on the first five whiskies (all either bottled or distilled by Gordon & MacPhail):

Benromach Traditional (7-7 ½ yo)
40% ABV, 80 Proof
Nose:  Light smoke, smells strongly of fresh green apples, honey
Palate:  Light, small smoke, green apples, cloves
Finish:  Dry, long, turns slightly bitter toward the end
Comments:  Benromach is G&MacP’s distillery.  It’s the smallest distillery in Speyside and this expression is an attempt to define what traditional Speyside whisky should be.  This whisky spends about 80% of it’s maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels and the remaining 20% in first-fill sherry casks.  From a cost and taste stand point, Benromach Traditional sits squarely among our Gateway Speysiders, Glenfiddich and Glenlivet.  I would definitely recommend this whisky.

Benromach Organic (7-7 ½ yo)
43% ABV, 86 Proof
Nose:  Caramel, apple, sour (like bourbon mash), oak
Palate:  Viscous but light, green apple, toffee, vanilla and light spice
Finish:  A little burn, leaves the mouth wetter than the Traditional
Comments:  How can a whisky be organic you ask?    Well, the barley is organic and the virgin American oak in the barrels is organic.  That’s right, all virgin American oak (charred of course) just like the Glenmorangie Astar.  The Organic is much darker in color than the Traditional and woodier.  It may be a touch more balanced than Astar, but it is also a touch too light on flavor.  Not bad but, unless you have a tremendous amount of guilt about your SUV and beef habits, I think the Traditional is a better product.

Caol Ila (Connoisseurs Choice 1996), 8yo
43% ABV, 86 Proof
Nose:  Peat and pear
Palate:  Light but not much to except peat and it’s associate flavors (leather, anise, damp earth)
Finish:  Short but the peat lingers
Comments:  Caol Ila is one of the primary malts in Johnnie Walker and a handful of other blends.  It’s a good base whisky, but this one is nothing special to my palate.

Miltonduff, 10yo
40% ABV, 80 Proof
Nose:  Lady’s perfume, summer fruits and wild flowers
Palate:  Tastes exactly like it smells with an oily mouth feel
Finish:  The taste does not linger, but my tongue curls and cramps in aftershock
Comments:  If this is the key component of Ballentine’s, I might have to stay away from Ballentine’s.

Mortlach, 15yo
40%ABV, 80 Proof
Nose:  Green apples, nail polish remover and pipe tobacco
Palate:  Roasted nuts and cherry cough syrup
Finish:  Cherry cough syrup
Comments:  Mortlach is distilled 2 ½ times, aged in first fill sherry casks and “condensed” in worm tubs to create a more intense flavor profile.  Unfortunately, it is not a flavor profile that I enjoy in the least.  Though at least one attendee claimed it as her favorite.

After the first five, the tables were cleared and we were give four more drams.  We kind of rushed through them and both my tongue and nose were getting fatigued so my notes aren’t as good (especially on the last two):

Aberfeldy (Connoisseurs Choice 1989), 15yo
43% ABV, 86 Proof
Nose:  Smells just like the perfume they use to scent baby diapers
Palate:  Light, smooth, spice, vanilla, and caramel
Finish:  Burns with sweet caramel
Comments:  Aberfeldy is the key component of Dewar’s.  Not a bad dram, but the nose really turns me off.

Glen Grant, 21yo
40%ABV, 80 Proof
Nose:  Green apples, peaches
Palate:  Sweet, fruity, a little brine somehow (maybe I was sweating into my cup)
Finish:  Long and lovely
Comments:  I’ve always been a sucker for a good Glen Grant and I’ve always thought that it wore age well.  Very good indeed.

Benromach, 21yo
43% ABV, 86 Proof
Nose:  Sweet fruits and cereal
Palate:  viscous, soft, sherrywood, oak
Finish:  Long and luscious
Comments:  Fatigue setting in…

Macallan Speymalt 1972, 35yo
43% ABV, 86 Proof
Nose:  Extreme fruit (citrus, tropical, and dark berries)
Palate:  Same fruit as the nose with a creamy note and Christmas spice
Finish:  Long and luxurious
Comments:  Is it as good as the distillery-bottled 30yo?  I don’t know.  I really like the 30yo.  This is a little fruitier and a whole lot cheaper.  So you decide.

Whew.  That’s it, nine whiskies.  I don’t want to complain about too much free whisky, but this was a little much for any real objective tasting, especially when there were no spit buckets.  If you were following my Twitter posts, you probably noticed that the whisky was served from plastic cups.  That was a minor disappointment, but I think it was the shape of the cups, more than the material, that was the bigger problem.  However, I did get some good tasting in, so why am I complaining?  🙂

Thanks to Gordon & MacPhail and Louis 649 for putting this together.

Drink well, drink responsibly.

-Matt

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New U.S. Releases

It appears that we’ve been a little derelict in out duties on noting the release of new whiskeys to the United States.  So far this month there are five promising additions that were annouced.  And it’s only August 13th!

Suntory Yamazaki 1984 Single Malt Whisky 
Timeframe: October 2009
ABV: 48%
Price: $550 – $650
More of the wonderful whisky being made in Japan come here is never a bad thing.  In addition to the Hibiki we announced last month we seem to be making headway with Japanese distribution.  Sadly this ones out of most of our price ranges.

Four Roses 2009 Mariage Collection Bourbon
Timeframe: September (around the Kentucky Bourbon Festival)
ABV: 57% – 59%
Price: ?
I have yet to try the 2008 Mariage.  Apparently I need to get on that and quick!

Tullamore Dew 10 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey
Timeframe: Late 2009
ABV: ? But most likely 40%
Price: $39.99
More Irish single malt!  This will be a welcome addition to Tullamore’s portfoilo of standard, 10 Year, and 12 Year blends.

Laphroaig 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Timeframe: September
ABV: ?
Price: $84.99
This is the new release that will replace Laphroaig’s current 15 Year Old bottling in their standard portfolio.  It promises to be good but if you’re in love with the 15 Year, get it while you can!

Evan Williams Honey Reserve
Timeframe: Soon
ABV: 35%
Price: $14.99
It seems like everyone is coming out with flavored bourbon or whiskey liqueurs.  Here’s Evan Williams’s entry into the category.

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Two New Drams From Preiss Imports

I just got back from a press event for Preiss Imports at Brandy Library in Tribeca.  It seems Whisk(e)y Apostle is becoming legit, oh my brothers.  I was hoping to run into Mark from WhiskyCast or Dr. Whisky, but they either did not come or came after I left.  Maybe next time.  Anyway, that’s neither here nor there.  The news of the day was two new drams from Preiss.

The first dram was the new whiskey from Cambeltown’s first new distillery in 100 years.  Though distilled at Glengyle (right around the corner from Springbank), the new single malt is called Kilkerran.  This is the first global release from Kilkerran and represents the launch of the “Work in Progress” series.  As a bona fide whisky nerd, the idea of this series really tickles my fancy.  It’s like being in the distillery with the Master tasting the whisky at each age until you know it is ready.  This first release is five years old and they will be releasing limited quantities each year until the whiskey is 12 years old.

Kilkerran 5yo Single Malt Scotch Whisky
46% ABV, 92 Proof
SRP $59.99, Very Limited Availability (only 1,800 bottles in the U.S.)

Nose: Light, vanilla, bananas, some peat
Palate: Light but rough around the edges, cloves, vanilla, tropical fruits, touches of peat and licorice
Finish: Makes the mouth water, peat, banana skins, a lot of alcohol
Comments: I love the idea of this.  You can really taste where this whisky is going, but it is not quite there yet.  It’s got a little too much heat and alcohol.  A little more time in the barrel is going to make this a great whisky.  If you get a chance, you should try this.  It is great for your whiskey education.  I’m hoping they are holding back a few bottles of this each year so we can do side-by-side tastings when the 12yo drops seven years from now.
Rating:  Average/Must Try For Whisky Nerds

The next pour was Black Bull 30yo Blended Whisky.  This is a one off and once it’s gone, that’s it.  Unfortunately, there is not much of it either.  Other than it’s age, what really makes this whisky interesting is that it is blended, then aged for thirty years in sherry casks.  Most blends are made from aged whiskies and “married” for only a short time.  The result is quite remarkable.  It has the cohesiveness of a single malt, but the complexity of a blend.  This is a unique experience not to be missed.

Black Bull 30yo Deluxe Blended Scotch Whisky
50% ABV, 100 Proof
Estimated Retail $199, Very Limited Availability (only 600 bottles in the U.S.)

Nose: Turkish coffee grounds, dark chocolate, ripe cherries
Palate: Heavily sherried but not overly so, chocolate, plums and cherries
Finish: Long and complex, cherry, cinnamon, cherry, chocolate egg cream
Comments: This is a very unique dram and very nice.  It is not like anything else.  If I had to compare it to something, I would compare it to Highland Park 30yo and Charbay’s Whiskey Release II.  It doesn’t really taste like either, but I am reminded of both as I sip.  I must say that I was surprised to find that its 100 proof.  Uncommonly smooth, you could hurt yourself drinking this.
Rating:  Hate to say this about a rare and expensive whiskey but… Must Buy

Thanks to the folks at Preiss Imports, especially Steve Fox, for setting this up and thanks to Ethan Kelley and Brandy Library for hosting us.

Drink well, drink responsibly.
-Matt

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Did You Know #1: More Than a Shelf Can Show

I thought it might be a good idea to post little nuggets of whiskey related advice, knowledge, or wisdom from time to time to help out our readers.   Some people may say that these are all “common sense” but in life, like whiskey I find that “common” sense is a little less common than we think.  A number of you may already know most or all the bits of information that we’ll share under the “Did You Know” banner but if we can enlighten just one reader then in my opinion the post was helpful.  So here goes…

Did You Know…that your local liquor stores have access to a lot more selection than you see on the shelves?

Have you ever gone into your local purveyor of the water of life just to sigh as you see the same old bottlings again and again?  You may find yourself wondering why your local shop only carries the same 5 bourbons, 2 ryes, 2 Irish, and 4 scotches?  The answer?  Supply and demand.  I’m not going to give you an economics lesson but suffice it to say that if your local shop sells their selection just fine then why change?  However, if they see a growing demand for something else that they can get their hands on then they may start stocking that too.  Try talking to the local store manager/owner and see if they are willing to order specific whiskeys for you.  You may be surprised when they pull out the book they get from their local distributor and then ask you which of 50+ additional scotches on that list you are interested in.

There are limits of course.  Some producers don’t sell in certain areas.  There are plenty of scotch bottlings that don’t make it stateside.  Japanese whisky is all but completely absent here.  Even a great brand like Buffalo Trace doesn’t send any of their standard bottling two states south to Georgia.  So don’t go in expecting to get  the most hard to find and esoteric whiskey imaginable.   On the other hand, see what they can get.  You may just be surprised.  If enough people start doing it then you may just see that standard selection increasing a bottling at a time.

One additional note about price – generally speaking the liquor store will probably charge you a little more for your special order bottle than if you bought it off the shelf.  Why?  Well, it’s either because they can (you obviously couldn’t get it elsewhere or you wouldn’t be coming in and special ordering it) or because what they pay for a single bottle is a good bit more than the per bottle price if they order a case/box of a regularly stocked item.   Either way, as long as they don’t completely screw you on the price then fair is fair.  They are getting a decent profit and you are getting the whiskey you’ve been looking for.  What’s not to like?

– Richard

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Gateway Series #10: The Three Glens

Back in 2009 we published our Gateway Series, and for this one decided to do something a little different.  We decided that a head-to-head-to-head tasting of the Three Glens would be a nice twist on our usual reviews.  There was some discussion if single malt scotches should even be included as a “gateway” drink given their tendency toward higher prices and a more refined palate.  That said, if you are venturing into single malts for the first time you’re likely to cross paths with one of these three.  Here are the results of our tasting of The Glenlivet 12 Year Old, Glenfiddich 12 Year Old, and Glenmorangie The Original.  Enjoy!

The Glenlivet 12 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

40% ABV
$25 to $40
Website
Glenlivet 12 Yr Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

What the Distillery Says:

Smooth, balanced, fruity… an invitation to indulgence in liquid form.

This whisky has been called a lot of things in its time: smooth, fruity, complex, sophisticated, entertaining, classic. The Original Malt Whisky Almanac says: “A first-class malt. One of the most popular malts in the world – deservedly so.” Representing The Glenlivet’s signature style, this classic malt is first matured in traditional oak, before spending time in American oak casks which impart notes of vanilla and gives the whisky it’s distinctive smoothness. The mineral-rich water that comes from Josie’s Well helps form the flavours during mashing and fermentation, whilst the specific height and width of the copper stills add a delicate yet complex character. Keep a bottle on hand for every occasion.

Color: Bright, vibrant gold
Cask: European and American oak
Nose: Fruity and summery
Palate: Well-balanced and fruity, with strong pineapple notes
Flavor: Delicately balanced with strong pineapple notes
Finish: Long, creamy, smooth

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Light grass with sweet fruit notes pushing through. No note of earthiness (peat, smoke, etc.) which is a little surprising.  Water tends to fade the nose without continued agitation.
Palate: Apples, grass (like sitting in a meadow), and sweet cream (pre-whipped sweetened heavy cream).  Water mutes the more delicate notes.
Finish:  Short and fleeting.  Not much but it leaves you with notes of apple skin.
Comments: Full sweetness through the palate as opposed to a typical fore tongue sweetness.  Overall it was better than expected.  I’ve had this a thousand times and I’ll have it a thousand more.  It’s a great entry scotch but not necessarily typical of like scotches.  Good for fans of a fruiter white wine.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Crisp green apples, caramel, candy apple coating.  This is a very fruity and accessible nose for the neophyte but not very “Scotch-y.”  No smoke and no earth.
Palate:  The green apple is still present, but the sweeter notes move from caramel to sweet cream.  There is something I can’t quite grasp that Richard calls grassy.  I suppose I could call it saw grass, but it is very vague and faint.
Finish:  Short and tart.  The skin of a Granny Smith apple.
Comments:  This is a pleasant dram with lots of crisp fruit.  It is a great introduction for folks with a fondness for fruity drinks.  Don’t bother adding water or using this as a mixer.  Mixing kills the flavor.  Among single malts, this is decidedly average (that’s why it is so popular).  However, this stands out among gateway whiskies.


Glenfiddich 12 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

40% ABV
$35
Website
Glenfiddich 12 Yr Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

What the Distillery Says:

Flowing in the Valley of the Deer since 1887, our family’s signature expression is the world’s most awarded single malt Scotch whisky*.

With a unique freshness from the same Highland spring water we’ve used since 1887, its distinctive fruitiness comes from the high cut point William Grant always insisted upon.

Carefully matured in the finest American oak and European oak sherry casks for at least 12 years, it is mellowed in oak marrying tuns to create its sweet and subtle oak flavours.

Creamy with a long, smooth and mellow finish, our 12 Year Old is the perfect example of Glenfiddich’s unique Speyside style and is widely proclaimed the best dram in the valley.

TRADITION IN TUNS
Marrying single malt whisky is a tradition we have passed down through generations. Our whisky is matured for 12 years in Olorosso, European oak sherry and American oak casks before being married by our Malt Master, Brian Kinsman, in specially designed, uniquely sized oak marrying tuns for 9 months.

THE SWEETEST PART
In the first few weeks of Glenfiddich, William Grant put his son Alec in charge of the stills. His job was to find the best part of the distillate. He chose only the heart of the spirit, although good spirit was lost. We continue to use the same unusually high cut point for an unequivocally clean, estery, sweet and fruity distillate. Ready for maturation.

PROTECTING OUR SPRING
Since 1887, we’ve used water from the same spring William Grant did. He could tell the Robbie Dhu spring would remain crucial to the future of our distillery, so bought more acres of land around it than he could afford, guaranteeing the purity of our whisky forever.

Tasting Notes
COLOUR: Golden
NOSE: Distinctively fresh and fruity with a hint of pear. Beautifully crafted and delicately balanced.
TASTE: Characteristic sweet, fruity notes. Develops into butterscotch, cream, malt and subtle oak flavours.
FINISH: A long smooth and mellow finish.

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Honey/honeysuckle with butter but it’s more like a brown butter sauce or clarified butter.  Not to sound too snotty but it has a really nice bouquet.  More of a green/under ripened note develops with water.
Palate: Initially not very much on the palate.  Upon further investigation this is a more peppered honey on the palate compared to the nose.  It has a creamier mouth feel.
Finish:  Leave the mouth feeling…chewy.  A slight vegetal note as the sweetness clears the throat.  More pepper is left behind.
Comments: There’s a reason this is sold more widely than any other single malt.  It’s a very pleasant dram.  A solid go-to malt.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Honey butter and those little toast bites you can buy at Ikea (like heavily toasted mini baguettes).
Palate:  Buttery, toasty, viscous, clove, slightly burnt toast bites.  The palate gives an interesting sensation.  The whisky forms a meniscus then bursts on the center of the tongue.  Water opens the nose to some green apple, but kills the palate.
Finish:  Short finish with a slight burn.  Glenfiddich makes my mouth water and my cheeks feel full (almost swollen).
Comments:  Of the Glens, Glenfiddich is the one that I would suggest to anyone interested in getting into Single Malts.  It is not overly complex or overly simple and has a very accessible flavor profile.  Like the Glenlivet, this stands out only compared to other gateway drams.  This is my favorite gateway dram despite the fact that I prefer Glenmorangie (see notes below).


Glenmorangie Original 10 Years
Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

43% ABV
$35
Website
Glenmorangie Original Single M

What the Distillery Says:

Glenmorangie Original is an inviting single malt whisky, acclaimed and appreciated by luxury spirit drinkers around the world.
The original expression of Glenmorangie’s elegant, floral spirit that is renowned the world over for exquisite finesse and alluring complexity, The Original is the intriguing marriage of delicate spirit and long, slow maturation.

The taste characteristics from the first-fill bourbon casks that permeates the majority of the ages spirit, coupled with the increased proportion of our ‘designer casks’ (made from slow-growth, air-dried American oak from the Ozark Mountains of Missouri), results in a delicious spirit that enhances the relaxed and convivial mood of the group by igniting the senses.

The Original is, quite simply, the most delicate and deliciously complex single malt whisky in the world.

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Yeast rolls and tart apples.  For only 3% more alcohol than the other two Glens it makes a big difference on the nose.  Much more alcohol.  Water cuts down the alcohol but all else remains the same.
Palate: Viscous mouth feel with a bit of sweetness but more tart.  Almost like Dr. Brown’s Cream Soda.  Water mutes the flavor.
Finish:  There’s like a viscous hold on the finish and then it releases from the mouth like a dam break.
Comments: Glenmorangie seems to move away from a gateway malt to be more of a defined palate that needs to be sought out as opposed to embracing your.  Their reformulation over the old 10 Year is quite noticeable.  Would I call it “the most delicate and deliciously complex single malt whisky in the world”? No.  But it is quite good.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Yeast rolls, tart apples and a lot of alcohol.
Palate:  Birch beer, herbal, faint notes of licorice.  Water draws out some caramel sweetness but creates an odd sensation of a crystalline caramel shell with nothing inside.
Finish:  Short and slightly numbing
Comments:  I find it odd that Glenmorangie is so often mentioned in the same breath as Glenfiddich and Glenlivet.  Both ‘fiddich and ‘livet are Speyside malts while Glenmorangie comes from the Highland region.  Furthermore, the taste profiles are very different.  Glenmorangie is herbal and slightly medicinal compared to the fruitiness of the other two.  The extra alcohol content is small, but prominent.  This dram is for a decidedly different palate.  While this suits my palate best of the three, I cannot recommend it over the Glenfiddich as a gateway dram.

Rating:

This was a very interesting experience.  It brought up a lot of questions about the nature of ratings and whether they should be a definitive scale or a relative scale.  Definitively we rated all three as average because while good, they are far overshadowed by world of single malts.  On a relative scale all three standout from everything we’ve tried in the gateway series.  So if you want an overall rating they would each be Average/Stands Out.  Personally, Matt and I both picked Glenfiddich from the group.  No matter which one you pick up I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

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