Review

Two New Drams From Preiss Imports

I just got back from a press event for Preiss Imports at Brandy Library in Tribeca.  It seems Whisk(e)y Apostle is becoming legit, oh my brothers.  I was hoping to run into Mark from WhiskyCast or Dr. Whisky, but they either did not come or came after I left.  Maybe next time.  Anyway, that’s neither here nor there.  The news of the day was two new drams from Preiss.

The first dram was the new whiskey from Cambeltown’s first new distillery in 100 years.  Though distilled at Glengyle (right around the corner from Springbank), the new single malt is called Kilkerran.  This is the first global release from Kilkerran and represents the launch of the “Work in Progress” series.  As a bona fide whisky nerd, the idea of this series really tickles my fancy.  It’s like being in the distillery with the Master tasting the whisky at each age until you know it is ready.  This first release is five years old and they will be releasing limited quantities each year until the whiskey is 12 years old.

Kilkerran 5yo Single Malt Scotch Whisky
46% ABV, 92 Proof
SRP $59.99, Very Limited Availability (only 1,800 bottles in the U.S.)

Nose: Light, vanilla, bananas, some peat
Palate: Light but rough around the edges, cloves, vanilla, tropical fruits, touches of peat and licorice
Finish: Makes the mouth water, peat, banana skins, a lot of alcohol
Comments: I love the idea of this.  You can really taste where this whisky is going, but it is not quite there yet.  It’s got a little too much heat and alcohol.  A little more time in the barrel is going to make this a great whisky.  If you get a chance, you should try this.  It is great for your whiskey education.  I’m hoping they are holding back a few bottles of this each year so we can do side-by-side tastings when the 12yo drops seven years from now.
Rating:  Average/Must Try For Whisky Nerds

The next pour was Black Bull 30yo Blended Whisky.  This is a one off and once it’s gone, that’s it.  Unfortunately, there is not much of it either.  Other than it’s age, what really makes this whisky interesting is that it is blended, then aged for thirty years in sherry casks.  Most blends are made from aged whiskies and “married” for only a short time.  The result is quite remarkable.  It has the cohesiveness of a single malt, but the complexity of a blend.  This is a unique experience not to be missed.

Black Bull 30yo Deluxe Blended Scotch Whisky
50% ABV, 100 Proof
Estimated Retail $199, Very Limited Availability (only 600 bottles in the U.S.)

Nose: Turkish coffee grounds, dark chocolate, ripe cherries
Palate: Heavily sherried but not overly so, chocolate, plums and cherries
Finish: Long and complex, cherry, cinnamon, cherry, chocolate egg cream
Comments: This is a very unique dram and very nice.  It is not like anything else.  If I had to compare it to something, I would compare it to Highland Park 30yo and Charbay’s Whiskey Release II.  It doesn’t really taste like either, but I am reminded of both as I sip.  I must say that I was surprised to find that its 100 proof.  Uncommonly smooth, you could hurt yourself drinking this.
Rating:  Hate to say this about a rare and expensive whiskey but… Must Buy

Thanks to the folks at Preiss Imports, especially Steve Fox, for setting this up and thanks to Ethan Kelley and Brandy Library for hosting us.

Drink well, drink responsibly.
-Matt

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Gateway Series #10: The Three Glens

Back in 2009 we published our Gateway Series, and for this one decided to do something a little different.  We decided that a head-to-head-to-head tasting of the Three Glens would be a nice twist on our usual reviews.  There was some discussion if single malt scotches should even be included as a “gateway” drink given their tendency toward higher prices and a more refined palate.  That said, if you are venturing into single malts for the first time you’re likely to cross paths with one of these three.  Here are the results of our tasting of The Glenlivet 12 Year Old, Glenfiddich 12 Year Old, and Glenmorangie The Original.  Enjoy!

The Glenlivet 12 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

40% ABV
$25 to $40
Website
Glenlivet 12 Yr Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

What the Distillery Says:

Smooth, balanced, fruity… an invitation to indulgence in liquid form.

This whisky has been called a lot of things in its time: smooth, fruity, complex, sophisticated, entertaining, classic. The Original Malt Whisky Almanac says: “A first-class malt. One of the most popular malts in the world – deservedly so.” Representing The Glenlivet’s signature style, this classic malt is first matured in traditional oak, before spending time in American oak casks which impart notes of vanilla and gives the whisky it’s distinctive smoothness. The mineral-rich water that comes from Josie’s Well helps form the flavours during mashing and fermentation, whilst the specific height and width of the copper stills add a delicate yet complex character. Keep a bottle on hand for every occasion.

Color: Bright, vibrant gold
Cask: European and American oak
Nose: Fruity and summery
Palate: Well-balanced and fruity, with strong pineapple notes
Flavor: Delicately balanced with strong pineapple notes
Finish: Long, creamy, smooth

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Light grass with sweet fruit notes pushing through. No note of earthiness (peat, smoke, etc.) which is a little surprising.  Water tends to fade the nose without continued agitation.
Palate: Apples, grass (like sitting in a meadow), and sweet cream (pre-whipped sweetened heavy cream).  Water mutes the more delicate notes.
Finish:  Short and fleeting.  Not much but it leaves you with notes of apple skin.
Comments: Full sweetness through the palate as opposed to a typical fore tongue sweetness.  Overall it was better than expected.  I’ve had this a thousand times and I’ll have it a thousand more.  It’s a great entry scotch but not necessarily typical of like scotches.  Good for fans of a fruiter white wine.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Crisp green apples, caramel, candy apple coating.  This is a very fruity and accessible nose for the neophyte but not very “Scotch-y.”  No smoke and no earth.
Palate:  The green apple is still present, but the sweeter notes move from caramel to sweet cream.  There is something I can’t quite grasp that Richard calls grassy.  I suppose I could call it saw grass, but it is very vague and faint.
Finish:  Short and tart.  The skin of a Granny Smith apple.
Comments:  This is a pleasant dram with lots of crisp fruit.  It is a great introduction for folks with a fondness for fruity drinks.  Don’t bother adding water or using this as a mixer.  Mixing kills the flavor.  Among single malts, this is decidedly average (that’s why it is so popular).  However, this stands out among gateway whiskies.


Glenfiddich 12 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

40% ABV
$35
Website
Glenfiddich 12 Yr Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

What the Distillery Says:

Flowing in the Valley of the Deer since 1887, our family’s signature expression is the world’s most awarded single malt Scotch whisky*.

With a unique freshness from the same Highland spring water we’ve used since 1887, its distinctive fruitiness comes from the high cut point William Grant always insisted upon.

Carefully matured in the finest American oak and European oak sherry casks for at least 12 years, it is mellowed in oak marrying tuns to create its sweet and subtle oak flavours.

Creamy with a long, smooth and mellow finish, our 12 Year Old is the perfect example of Glenfiddich’s unique Speyside style and is widely proclaimed the best dram in the valley.

TRADITION IN TUNS
Marrying single malt whisky is a tradition we have passed down through generations. Our whisky is matured for 12 years in Olorosso, European oak sherry and American oak casks before being married by our Malt Master, Brian Kinsman, in specially designed, uniquely sized oak marrying tuns for 9 months.

THE SWEETEST PART
In the first few weeks of Glenfiddich, William Grant put his son Alec in charge of the stills. His job was to find the best part of the distillate. He chose only the heart of the spirit, although good spirit was lost. We continue to use the same unusually high cut point for an unequivocally clean, estery, sweet and fruity distillate. Ready for maturation.

PROTECTING OUR SPRING
Since 1887, we’ve used water from the same spring William Grant did. He could tell the Robbie Dhu spring would remain crucial to the future of our distillery, so bought more acres of land around it than he could afford, guaranteeing the purity of our whisky forever.

Tasting Notes
COLOUR: Golden
NOSE: Distinctively fresh and fruity with a hint of pear. Beautifully crafted and delicately balanced.
TASTE: Characteristic sweet, fruity notes. Develops into butterscotch, cream, malt and subtle oak flavours.
FINISH: A long smooth and mellow finish.

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Honey/honeysuckle with butter but it’s more like a brown butter sauce or clarified butter.  Not to sound too snotty but it has a really nice bouquet.  More of a green/under ripened note develops with water.
Palate: Initially not very much on the palate.  Upon further investigation this is a more peppered honey on the palate compared to the nose.  It has a creamier mouth feel.
Finish:  Leave the mouth feeling…chewy.  A slight vegetal note as the sweetness clears the throat.  More pepper is left behind.
Comments: There’s a reason this is sold more widely than any other single malt.  It’s a very pleasant dram.  A solid go-to malt.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Honey butter and those little toast bites you can buy at Ikea (like heavily toasted mini baguettes).
Palate:  Buttery, toasty, viscous, clove, slightly burnt toast bites.  The palate gives an interesting sensation.  The whisky forms a meniscus then bursts on the center of the tongue.  Water opens the nose to some green apple, but kills the palate.
Finish:  Short finish with a slight burn.  Glenfiddich makes my mouth water and my cheeks feel full (almost swollen).
Comments:  Of the Glens, Glenfiddich is the one that I would suggest to anyone interested in getting into Single Malts.  It is not overly complex or overly simple and has a very accessible flavor profile.  Like the Glenlivet, this stands out only compared to other gateway drams.  This is my favorite gateway dram despite the fact that I prefer Glenmorangie (see notes below).


Glenmorangie Original 10 Years
Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

43% ABV
$35
Website
Glenmorangie Original Single M

What the Distillery Says:

Glenmorangie Original is an inviting single malt whisky, acclaimed and appreciated by luxury spirit drinkers around the world.
The original expression of Glenmorangie’s elegant, floral spirit that is renowned the world over for exquisite finesse and alluring complexity, The Original is the intriguing marriage of delicate spirit and long, slow maturation.

The taste characteristics from the first-fill bourbon casks that permeates the majority of the ages spirit, coupled with the increased proportion of our ‘designer casks’ (made from slow-growth, air-dried American oak from the Ozark Mountains of Missouri), results in a delicious spirit that enhances the relaxed and convivial mood of the group by igniting the senses.

The Original is, quite simply, the most delicate and deliciously complex single malt whisky in the world.

What Richard Says:

Nose:  Yeast rolls and tart apples.  For only 3% more alcohol than the other two Glens it makes a big difference on the nose.  Much more alcohol.  Water cuts down the alcohol but all else remains the same.
Palate: Viscous mouth feel with a bit of sweetness but more tart.  Almost like Dr. Brown’s Cream Soda.  Water mutes the flavor.
Finish:  There’s like a viscous hold on the finish and then it releases from the mouth like a dam break.
Comments: Glenmorangie seems to move away from a gateway malt to be more of a defined palate that needs to be sought out as opposed to embracing your.  Their reformulation over the old 10 Year is quite noticeable.  Would I call it “the most delicate and deliciously complex single malt whisky in the world”? No.  But it is quite good.

What Matt Says:

Nose:  Yeast rolls, tart apples and a lot of alcohol.
Palate:  Birch beer, herbal, faint notes of licorice.  Water draws out some caramel sweetness but creates an odd sensation of a crystalline caramel shell with nothing inside.
Finish:  Short and slightly numbing
Comments:  I find it odd that Glenmorangie is so often mentioned in the same breath as Glenfiddich and Glenlivet.  Both ‘fiddich and ‘livet are Speyside malts while Glenmorangie comes from the Highland region.  Furthermore, the taste profiles are very different.  Glenmorangie is herbal and slightly medicinal compared to the fruitiness of the other two.  The extra alcohol content is small, but prominent.  This dram is for a decidedly different palate.  While this suits my palate best of the three, I cannot recommend it over the Glenfiddich as a gateway dram.

Rating:

This was a very interesting experience.  It brought up a lot of questions about the nature of ratings and whether they should be a definitive scale or a relative scale.  Definitively we rated all three as average because while good, they are far overshadowed by world of single malts.  On a relative scale all three standout from everything we’ve tried in the gateway series.  So if you want an overall rating they would each be Average/Stands Out.  Personally, Matt and I both picked Glenfiddich from the group.  No matter which one you pick up I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

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Highland Park 30 Year Old

Highland Park 30 Years Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky
48.1% ABV, 96.2 Proof
About $350 to $475
Limited Worldwide Availability

What the Distillery Says:

The flagship variant of the Highland Park range was first released in April 2005. By its very nature, this whisky is only available in limited quantities. It is, however, worth seeking out as the ultimate expression of the distillery’s character.

Tasting notes
Colour: Rich, Coppery amber
Bouquet: Spicy, aromatic, nutmeg and darkest chocolate
Palate: Force 9 Flavour, toffee, dark chocolate orange and Hobbister Hill peat
Finish: Rich, long, smokey and surprisingly sweet

Highland Park 30 Year Old merits time and attention. It has spent 30 years maturing so treat it with respect; you’ll discover the characteristic fudge sweetness together with complex aromatic spices and dark chocolate orange. It has a drying finish, leaving a gentle smokey flavour and a mildly salty aftertaste – the result of 30 years aging in the Orkney sea spray.

What Richard Says:

Nose: Luxurious. Layers of complexity not easily stripped apart. Candied fruit, chocolate, and a cherry sweetness.
Palate: The sweetness from the sherry blasts you in the face but in a very good way. It warms the mouth with light peat and hints of the sea. Seaweed. Gorgeous mouth feel with a kick from the added proof. A monster of flavor that dances on air. The Muhammad Ali of Malt!
Finish: The burn from the alcohol is like a flash fire…there and gone. No linger to the alcohol at all. As it clears the mouth it leaves a little more peat but overall it finishes leaving you with the same characteristics of the palate.
Comments: This is a magnificent experience. You want everyone to try it but don’t want to share.
Rating: Must Buy

What Matt Says:

Nose: Luxury, chocolate covered cherries, peat, hippy cigars (Acid brand Liquid cigars to be precise)
Palate: Robust and delicate at the same time, balanced, sweet, dark chocolate, ripe berries, sherry, peat and brine.
Finish: Like a muted version of the palate with a hint more peat. The burn is a flash that disappears almost before you feel it.
Comment: I have no words to express my love for this whiskey. This is why we drink whisky. If you can afford to spend $350 on a bottle of whisky, buy this one.
Rating: Must Buy

I feel the need to add a little more commentary on this bottle. First, Matt and I both agreed that the layers of flavor were too amazing for us to adequately describe. What you see above is our meager attempt at describing a wonderful drinking experience. Also, it’s hard to rate something that costs several hundred dollars a bottle as a Must Buy. We realize that it’s a lot of money for the average person, especially in these trying economic times. That said, if you have the means definitely pick up a bottle. You will not be sorry.

Overall Rating: Must Buy

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Gateway Series #9: Johnnie Walker Black

Johnnie Walker Black Label Old Scotch Whisky (12yo)
40% ABV, 80 Proof
About $35-40
Available pretty much everywhere

What The Distillery Says:
An acclaimed masterpiece of blending craftsmanship, the rich and smooth Johnnie Walker Black Label is an award-winning blend.

With a depth and complexity drawn from over 40 select whiskies, including the fresh fruitiness of Glendullan, the opulent Mortlach, the earthy Talisker and the creamy, vanillan Cameron Brig, Black Label…it is at once powerful, intriguing and unassailably elegant.  Small wonder it was Sir Winston Churchill’s whisky of choice.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Fresh cut wood, vanilla (extract not bean) and citrus notes that seemed to be a muted orange fragrance.  With water the peat that was so absent without water goes to the forefront.  The water actually disperses the unique notes and makes it smell like generic scotch.
Palate: Salty and smoky with hints of pepper peeking around the edges.  It leaves the mouth feeling brined.  Water opens up the palate a little and adds floral sweetness.
Finish: Smooth on the throat and a mixture of salt and smoke in the mouth.
Comments: I wish some of the more delicate notes on the nose came through on the palate.  It seems odd to me that adding water destroys the nose and opens the palate.  Usually for whiskeys bottled at 40 to 43% ABV the opposite occurs.  That said, Johnnie Walker Black isn’t bad and it’s always consistent.  I could drink this straight but I’d still probably prefer not to.
Rating: Average

What Matt Says:
Nose: Earthy, roasted nuts, citrus, and vegetal.
Palate: Peat, spice, grain, citrus, are the strongest flavors.  With water, some sweetness that I can’t place comes out.  It’s not really honey or sugar (or even burnt sugar).
Finish: Long finish.  Sweetness, smoke, vegetal, brine.
Comments: Not one of the best blends on the market, but a good starter.  Black Label is rounder and better developed than Red Label and more complex than Dewar’s White Label.  I don’t mind this neat, but I think it really shines in a simple cocktail or just with some soda.
Rating:  Average

Overall Rating:  Average.  A good gateway blend.

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Rowan’s Creek Straight Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey

To celebrate America’s independence from British rule, we are reviewing Rowan’s Creek.  I mean, what better way to celebrate than with a dram of America’s native hooch?

Rowan’s Creek Straight Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey
(Batch QBC No o9-21)
50.05% ABV, 100.1 Proof
Around $35

What the Distillery Says:
Rowan’s Creek is stored in charred oak barrels. It is hand bottled at 50.05% alc./vol. (100.1 proof).

Rowan’s Creek is made and bottled by hand, in small lots, one batch at a time.

This Bourbon takes its namesake from the creek that still runs through our distillery. Back in the late 1700’s when John Rowan first settled around Bardstown , whiskey makin’ was the order of the day. John went on and made a name for himself as a well respected judge and statesmen. The judge is long since gone, but the creek that still bears his name is still carrying the best limestone spring water there ever was for making good Bourbon, so you know the whiskey makin’ is still going on. Try a sip of it, straight up in a snifter, or add a dab of branch water if you like. Either way, it’s the very best there is. (Rowan’s Creek is distilled and bottled by Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, Ltd.)

-This is a small batch bourbon therefore your bottle of Rowan’s Creek may taste slightly different depending on bottling year. – Matt

What Richard Says:
Nose: This nose is sweetly floral but hard to get at due to the alcohol strength.  With water fruity notes come out.  Citrus and apricot I believe.  It’s kind of odd but I get absolutely no wood or grain on the nose.
Palate: Not nearly as sweet on the palate as the nose.  Pepper and spice and oh so nice.  This isn’t really a smooth bourbon. Not one for the Basil Hayden fans.  But what is does have is mountains of flavor.  A very robust experience.  It’s like candied Mexican chilies.  With water the pepper is tamed and a lovely honeysuckle flavor develops.
Finish: For such a fiery palate it doesn’t go down to rough…as long as you take it slow.  Lot’s of pepper left on the palate.  The sides of the tongue are almost left numb.  This finish with water is smooth, mellow, but not bland.
Comments: A real man’s bourbon!  I’m not trying to sound sexist or imply that women shouldn’t drink it. I just mean that Rowan’s Creek is one fierce hombre.  It has the classic bourbon character but it wears it better than most.
Rating: Stands Out

What Matt Says:
Nose: Burnt sugar (like dark rum), caramel, vanilla, cereal notes (corn).  With water, it opens up to bold floral and honey suckle notes that remind me of my childhood.
Palate: Oak, char, smoke, caramel, karo syrup, cereal notes (this time malted barley and rye).  Enough body to withstand copious amounts of water.  Sweet but not cloying, spicy but not overly so, Rowan’s Creek is vaguely reminiscent of tamarind candy.
Finish: The finish goes on for a bit.  The malt and rye notes hang around with a little spice.  Just when I think it’s over and I’m ready for another sip, I get hit with flavors of evergreen and mint.
Comments: This is one of my new favorites.  It’s full-bodied and complex at a reasonable price point.  It also makes the best Mint Julep ever.  Knocking down the proof with some cool spring water makes this a perfect summer dram while drinking it straight will warm you to your toes in the dead of winter.  Rowan’s Creek is great anytime of the year.  Between my personal love for this whiskey and the price, I’m going to have to go with a “Must Buy” rating.  However, Richard makes an excellent point.  This whiskey is not for everyone.  If you are a beginner or looking for something simple to enjoy casually, this is probably not the dram for you.  The high proof alone makes it less approachable to a novice.
Rating:  Must Buy

Overall Rating:  Must Try.

Stands out among other bourbons (especially at this price), but may not be the best dram to start your whiskey education.  Not for the faint of heart.

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