Review

William Larue Weller 2014

December 12, 2014 / Richard / Bourbon, Review / Must Buy

William Larue Weller Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey – 2014 Release
70.1% ABV
$85-90
Website

What the Distillery Says:
Uncut and unfiltered, this hand-bottled bourbon is barrel proof. Weller substitutes wheat for the traditional rye grain, a production method pioneered by W.L. Weller.

TASTING NOTES:
Fragrant scents of caramel corn, new leather, plums, light toffee and pipe tobacco. The palate tastes of marshmallow, salted almonds, nougat, figs and dates. This whiskey finishes smooth, composed and flavorfully sweet.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Cocoa, toffee, steamed condensed milk (thinking of Cuban coffee), vanilla, hint of clove and honey; warm, dark and rich. For the proof, there isn’t as much alcohol burn as you might expect neat, but I recommend adding some water – which brings in new aromas of a comfortable leather chair (maybe in the waiting room of my favorite bakery?) The kind of whiskey I could nose for a long time – and love every minute of it.
Palate: Warm, chewy toffee sweetness; mincemeat pie with a dusting of hot chocolate instant powder (you know you’ve tried it without any water). Burnt toast and wood are balanced nicely with the sweetness.
Finish: Quite long, with a bit more spice and a bit of a bite at the end
Comments: I’ve always been a fan of this member of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, and this year is no exception. The proof is up there, so don’t be shy with the water. I like to nose it neat and take my first sip neat, adding water from there, but with proof like this you can burn your palate if you’re not careful – and I honestly find I enjoy it more with some water. The last several releases have been in the same age range, and while the proof has increased, Buffalo Trace picked the right barrels for the flavor profile. Fans of past William Larue Wellers shouldn’t be disappointed. And if they are, please let me know and I’ll try to help you dispose of the remainder of your bottle.
Rating: Must Buy

What Richard Says:
Nose: I really expected the nose on this to be rocket fuel out of the bottle but there is a lot of nice leather and caramel notes coming across even before you add water. Water opens up a big burst of cinnamon and honey drizzled over fresh baked cornbread.
Palate: Damn that’s rich! I didn’t even bother with a “before adding water sip” given the proof this is clocking in at. It’s really delicious. Dark fruit, toffee, and more cinnamon prevail.
Finish: A nice slow long woody spice with a dusting of cocoa powder. Very dry. Maybe a little too dry?
Comments: How the Pappy fanatics aren’t just as rabid about this I’ll never know. It is a standard bearer for barrel proof wheater bourbons. It’s absolutely delicious. My only complaint is that this year’s release seems a little too dry on the finish, but hey that just makes you want to drink more right? 🙂
Rating: Must Buy

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Compass Box The Lost Blend

December 8, 2014 / Richard / Review, Scottish Whisky / Must Try, Stands Out

Compass Box The Lost Blend
Blended Malt Scotch Whisky

46% ABV
$115 to $125
Website

What the Blender Says:

In 2001, we created our ﬁrst single malt blend which we called Eleuthera. It was an elegant and simple blend of approximately 80% unpeated Highland and 20% peaty Islay single malts. Alas, after 3 years, we were suddenly no longer able to obtain one of the key whiskies required for the recipe so, sadly, we retired Eleuthera in 2004. Quietly, I have always been looking for whiskies that we could use to bring it back, even if temporarily, but not with any luck. Until now.

“Yes, sir, the stuff was distilled elixir of battle, money and high life.”
From The Lost Blend by O. Henry, 1907

I’ve had a name that I’ve been waiting to use for a whisky project like this—The Lost Blend, inspired by the O. Henry story of the same name. This sharp and witty portrait of life in a New York bar in the early 1900s was published in 1907 and centres around two business partners who try to recreate a blend of different spirits with close to supernatural properties.

Having been blending Scotch whiskies as an amateur and a professional for the better part of 20 years, I can say with conﬁdence that I believe there exist “magic” combinations of whiskies. For me, they are like the whisky blending equivalent of spiritual truths. And what better name to lend to our lost blend, but “The Lost Blend”!
John Glaser, Whiskymaker

Availability: A limited edition of 12018 bottles. Bottled in August 2014.

Flavour Descriptors: An elegantly complex union of two fruity Highland single malts and a peaty Islay single malt. An ethereal fruit and herbal character and a sweetness on the palate is buttressed by an underlying smokiness.

Distillery Sourcing: Single malt whisky (of a certain age) from the Clynelish distillery, and a small cache of extraordinary whisky from the Allt-A-Bhainne distillery, aged in American oak barrels and just a few years shy of two decades old, combined with malt whisky from the Caol Ila distillery.

The Labels: We’ve created three different front label designs all around the same theme: lost items. The whisky behind each label is the same ,and the three labels have been randomly bottled and put into cases, which allows you an additional discovery to the whisky itself: which label did I get?

What Richard Says:

Nose: It is an interesting interplay of sweetness with a smokey peat nose. As it airs out a bit it becomes more herbal.
Palate: Much less peaty on the palate than the nose. It’s more like brined honey chews with more lovely herbal notes.
Finish: Salty and smokey before settling to slow, long honey and herb mix.
Comments: Delicious! I was sad to see Eleuthera go years ago and while this isn’t exactly the same thing it is a terrific whiskey in its own right. There are so many layers and so much nuance to this whiskey that you could contemplate it for days. My notes purposely appear to gloss over specifics because it changes every time I go back. Sometimes the sweetness is honey, then candied pineapple, then peach cobbler. This is a really fun dram to play with and explore.
Rating: Must Try

What Gary Says

Nose: Soft peat smoke, earthy mineral notes, herbal with fennel and lemongrass, vanilla, honey, subtle fruit notes of kiwi and peaches.
Palate: Peaches and pears with earthy peat, cracked pepper, honey and a bit of chocolate.
Finish: Long and drying with pepper, peat and grilled peaches.
Comments: Reviewed this in a side-by-side with Eleuthera, and by comparison this is more rich and fruity with the intensity turned up a notch. Really delicious dram with a nice balance between the smoke, peat and fruit notes.

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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Dewar’s Monarch

December 5, 2014 / Richard / Review, Scottish Whisky / Stands Out

Dewar’s The Monarch Blended Scotch Whisky Aged 15 Years
40% ABV
$40
Website

What the Blender Says:
Known as “The Monarch”. This rare and special whiskey is named after the famous painting, “The Monarch of the Glen”.

In 1851, Sir Edwin Landseer created the famous painting, an instant masterpiece, that depicts a stag in the Scottish Highlands. John Dewar and Sons purchased the painting in 1919 and hung it proudly.

Master blender Stephanie Macleod used the painting as inspiration for this rare and special whiskey.

DEWAR’S 15 Blended Scotch Whisky is a blend of very rare vintage single malt and single grain scotch whiskies. The blend is then married in oak casks for a light, velvety finish.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Rich and floral. Shaved coconut like the bagged kind you find in the grocery store mixed with wildflowers and just a hint of honey.
Palate: In the mouth it has that great Dewar’s custard creaminess. Vanilla flan with toffee crumbles on top. There’s also a bit of fresh cut grass back note to it too.
Finish: The finish a little dry and short. Wet popsicle sticks and a grassy, earthy note. As you continue to drink it the finish gets a little more hint of pepper and spice but again, it is short and fades to the popsicle sticks again.
Comments: I’ve often thought that the Dewar’s slogan should be “Dewar’s, the drinker’s dram.” By that I mean its blends don’t stretch the boundaries of scotch in anyway but they make for pleasant everyday drinkers. Even the Signature if your pocket book allows a $200+ table whiskey. It’s a nice alternative to the Johnnie Walkers (hit or miss as they continue to try new things) and the Chivases (trying too hard to be sophisticated) out there. Dewar’s seems to have more of a consistent soul shared by all their offerings. Plus, at $40 for a 15 year old blend it’s at a great price point.
Rating: Stands Out

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Glenmorangie Taghta

November 21, 2014 / Richard / Highland, Review, Scottish Whisky / Stands Out

Glenmorangie The Taghta Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
46% ABV
$120 to $130
Website

What the Distillery Says:
Where whisky fans can help design the next Limited Edition whisky! Online voting to decide result!

Glenmorangie is proud to announce the launch of an innovative whisky programme, which will involve fans of Scotland’s favourite malt in the selection of a brand new limited edition whisky.

The programme, known as ‘Glenmorangie Cask Masters’, will run for 18 months and will involve consumers across the world in the development of a new limited edition of Glenmorangie, planned for release in late 2014.

Working with Dr. Bill Lumsden, Director of Distilling and Whisky Creation at the Glenmorangie Company, consumers will be able to join him on a five stage journey where their opinions and votes will determine the outcome of the new whisky.

The winning dram will be chosen from three different ageing whiskies that are nearing the end of their maturation at Glenmorangie Distillery. During the 18 month programme consumers will be able to

Vote for their favourite of the three maturing whiskies:
Get involved in the naming of the new product
Decide what direction the packaging and design will take
Choose the photographic style that will bring the new expression to life
Get involved in the choice of location and win the chance to attend the global launch

At each stage participants will also be able to win prestigious prizes including a VIP visit to the Glenmorangie Distillery and a trip to the country of origin of the oak cask in which the winning whisky has been matured.

Dr. Lumsden has already revealed his selection of the 3 whiskies to a group of leading international whisky experts, who have all independently offered their initial views on his selection. Their taste notes are available on the Glenmorangie Cask Masters website to guide participants.

At the later stages of the programme design and photography experts will also offer their thoughts on the naming, packaging and launch suggestions received from Glenmorangie whisky fans.

Taghta is the exclusive result of Glenmorangie Csk Masters – a programme giving Glenmorangie fans the opportunity to shape a Limited Edition. The extra maturation in ex-Manzanilla casks gives Glenmorangie Taghta a rich, mellow taste of caramelised orange and lemon, some salty notes and hints of toasted oak.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Definitely get the sherry on the nose with a bit of honeysuckle and citrus zest. Underlying everything is a weird note that reminds me of saline contact lens rinse.
Palate: Raisin syrup, more citrus zest, and salted caramels.
Finish: A very oak forward finish but not in an over aged way. It really just lacks a counter balancing structure to offset the oak. It’s a mellow pleasant oak with a spicy back.
Comments: From the first pour this goes into the glass with oily smoothness. It foretells the smooth rich nature of the malt. At first taste it is almost cloying, very sweet-tooth-drinker oriented but that does a quick about face. Give it some time and it develops more of the background flavors. This is a very nice malt, especially in the age of over priced/under performing no age statement scotch. That said, I’m not sure I would buy a second bottle at $120 a pop. Maybe at $80. The only other thing (besides price) I’m not jazzed about is the whole “crowd sourcing” hullabaloo. It’s a bit hokey and over done. It reminds me a bit of Sazerac’s Single Oak Project which also just annoys me at this point.
Rating: Stands Out

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Highland Park Dark Origins

November 17, 2014 / Richard / Island, Review, Scottish Whisky / Probably Pass

Highland Park Dark Origins Single Malt Scotch Whisky
46.8% ABV
$80 to $90
Website

What the Distillery Says:
Dark Origins is inspired by the cunning spirit and courageous personality of Highland Park’s infamous founder, Magnus Eunson. This latest addition to the core expressions uses twice as many first fill sherry casks than in the classic Highland Park 12 year old resulting in a naturally darker, richer flavour.

Tasting Notes
Colour: Rich mahogany
Nose: Sherried spice and ripe bananas combine with toasted hazelnuts and baked apple
Palate: Well-balanced, dry peat at first mellowing out to maraschino cherries, warm dark chocolate entices the palate
Finish: Enduring sweet smoke

What Richard Says:
Nose: Sherry for sure. This has a much thicker and meatier nose than standard Highland Park bottlings.
Palate: So if a sherry butt and a peat brick had a fight, beat the hell out of each other, put antiseptic ointment on it and wrapped the whole thing in old Band-aids it would be this whisky.
Finish: Surprisingly sweet on the finish but it quickly fades to a dry soot-like quality.
Comments: I understand where Edrington is coming from. You have a great but under valued malt. You use some of those same great sherry casks that you use for Macallan but not too many. Your malt is a great balance of flavor and finesse with a bit of peat. You kind of missed out on the uber-peak band wagon last decade and now things are swinging heavily sherried. So you don’t have enough aged sherry stock to make a second line like with Macallan but you can bring what you do have together and make a no age statement version for the sherry bomb lovers out there and hopefully capitalize on the sherry wave to bring in some extra profits.

Yeah I get all that but the problem is this sucks. It might be passable if it wasn’t 1) a NAS mystery mix, 2) $80+ a bottle when your 12 year old is around $45 to $50, and 3) a Highland Park that is a bare shadow of the rest of the line. I’ve passed this bottle around and gotten some not negative feedback but if you for some reason value my opinion then I wouldn’t waste your money.
Rating: Probably Pass

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