Review

Mad March Hare Irish Poitín

Mad March Hare Irish Poitín
40% ABV
$30
Website
Mad March Hare Poitin
What the Bottler Says
Poitín (pronounced ‘put-cheen’) is as Irish as it gets. Distilled as early as the sixth century, it predates every spirit you’re likely to have ever tasted including whiskey. Irish Poitín is a truly unique spirit with an intriguing story, having been forced underground in 1661, and secretly distilled for over 300 years.

Mooney epitomized the rebellious irish man of old. Under the guise of a local fruit & vegetable trader, he distributed his famous Poitín across the land. Always one step ahead of The Law,
Mooney was affectionately known by locals to be as ‘mad as a march hare’.

Quietly distilled in traditional copper pot stills, from locally sourced malted barley. Mad March Hare is a classic Irish Poitín of unrivaled smoothness and flavour, making it just as good
over ice, with a simple mix or in a craft cocktail.

Tasting Notes
Aroma: Heavy malt notes, with coconut & baked apple combine in a highly impressive aroma.
Taste: Silk and creamy texture, over-layered with dried fruits, vanilla and French toast, could leave one to believe it was aged.
Finish: Long and brimming with honey sweetness, with malt spice, toasted almonds and lingering hints of lemon desserts.

What Gary Says
Nose:  Thick and grainy sweet, sugar cookies with a touch of molasses, honey, hint of boiled cabbage.
Palate:  Sweet, malty, a tad vegetal with notes of honey, vanilla and a hint of pepper spice at the end.
Finish:  Short and slightly drying.
Comments:  Poitín is pretty similar in concept to what American distilleries bottle as “new make” or “white dog”; but completely different to drink. With corn being the primary grain in a bourbon mashbill white dog, it is a very different kind of sweet than a malted barley poitín. The use of copper pot stills, and triple distillation all play a role as well. The nose on this is quite thick and dense for only 40% ABV; much more so than the palate.  I personally am not a big fan of white dog, “moonshine” (which technically anything you’re buying legally – isn’t), new make, or apparently poitín. If you are a fan of one or more of those, than I hope my tasting notes are helpful. I do find the history of the spirit, and how it was impacted by the colonization of Ireland, and the various class and religious struggles that the country has experienced. I’m always thankful for the opportunity to try new things, because the only way we know what we like or don’t is to experience them.
Rating: Average

We would like to thank The Gallavant Group for sending us a sample to review.

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Egan’s Legacy Reserve

Egan’s Legacy Reserve Single Malt Irish Whiskey Aged 15 Years
46% ABV
$200
Website

What the Bottler Says
Legacy Reserve is limited to 1,000 bottles worldwide— an exceptionally rare spirit ideally suited for collectors and connoisseurs. Aged for 15 years in American bourbon casks, each bottle is hand-selected by Maurice and Jonathan Egan, whose forefathers Patrick and Henry Egan began the brand six generations ago. An unmistakably Irish Whiskey, this expression advances the category of true single malts with a complex flavor profile and long finish. It boasts a characteristically spicy palate, pairing toffee and vanilla with fruits and citrus, full-bodied while hinting at oaky dryness.

“Legacy Reserve is meant to be had neat or on the rocks — that’s the Irish way, and the only way,” says CEO John Ralph. “We’re a bare-knuckles brand. With this bottle, we’re out to prove that small, thoughtfully produced legacy spirits have a viable place in the global market.”

What Gary Says
Nose:  Vanilla, fruit salad dusted with cinnamon and cocoa, musty oak with hints of rice pudding and spongecake.
Palate:  Creamy mouthfeel that sharpens a bit with a spicy uptick; fruity with pears, peaches and cherries with a hint of nutty honey.
Finish:  Moderate in length, wet and sweet.
Comments:  I appreciate the higher proof, as well as the non-chill filtering here. This dram has a nice delicate complexity; quite subtle as is not uncommon with Irish single malt whiskey. A couple drops of water opened it up nicely as well. While quite nice, I’d have a hard time spending the suggested retail for it. There’s nothing off putting about this whiskey, but there are some equally very nice 15 yr single malts out there for significantly less (close to half). Now they’re not limited editions, and the bottles are pedestrian, so if you’re a big fan of Egans and looking for the limited edition bottle, go for it. If you’re looking for something to open and drink, and don’t care how many bottles they made of it, I’d look to try this one first before spending the asking price.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank The Gallavant Group for sending us a sample to review.

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Laphroaig Cairdeas Fino Cask Finish

Laphroaig Cairdeas Fino Cask Finish
51.8% ABV
$80
Website

What the Distiller Says
Each year, Laphroaig Distillery Manager, John Campbell, crafts a limited edition malt to celebrate friendship (“Cairdeas” in Gaelic). Released in limited quantities stateside as one of the most a highly anticipated Laphroaig offerings each year, the 2018 iteration, Cairdeas Fino Cask, features notes of toasted almonds, dried fruit and sea salt, all of which perfectly complement the whisky’s peaty, unmistakably Laphroaig flavor.

Crafted in the spirit of ‘friendship’, the 2018 bottling of this annual release whisky is perfect to share with friends old and new. Laid to rest in Warehouse 8 and 10, Cairdeas Fino Cask showcases an especially unique double maturation process in first-fill bourbon casks, followed by Fino Sherry Casks.

COLOR: Golden amber
NOSE: Toasted almonds
BODY: Full bodied
PALATE: Dried fruit and sea salt
FINISH: Laphroaig’s signature peaty flavor

What Gary Says
Nose: Sea air, brine, peat, medicinal notes with a touch of citrus sweetness and mixed nuts.
Palate:  Sweet, peaty with notes of caramel custard, spongecake and almonds underneath.
Finish:  Moderate in length, damp with hints of stewed fruits as it fades.
Comments:  I’m a fan of Laphroaig to be sure (so I’m biased like that), but in general I commend them for having a limited edition that isn’t outrageously expensive, and also is true to the core spirit. If you don’t like Laphroaig, you probably won’t like this – because it tastes like Laphroaig, with a subtle twist. I appreciate that they aren’t trying to turn it into something completely different (not to knock innovation of that nature either). I found this to be a delightful and enjoyable pour. Compared to your standard Laphroaig 10yr, I find this to be a tad less medicinal with just a bit more citrus and nutty sweetness. I found a bit of water tamped down those nuances (the peat isn’t subdued that easily), but at 51.8% this didn’t need any water. I don’t know that I loved this as much as last year’s Laphroaig Cairdeas Quarter Cask, as the differences were more subtle and nuanced. But I definitely like it a lot, and wouldn’t turn down anyone offering it!
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Laphroaig and Multiply for sending us a sample to review.

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Glenturret Old Particular 1987 28 Year Old

Glenturret Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Douglas Laing “Old Particular” 1987 28 Year Old
(K&L Wines Exclusive)

49.7% ABV
$100
Website
1286859x
What the Retailer Says:
It’s rare to see a 25 year old whisky for less than $150 these days, and even when we do see the occasional bottle our first instinct is often to ask: what’s wrong with it? Understanding that natural reaction we had to ask ourselves: how will people respond when we offer them a 28 year old, single barrel, cask strength, Highland single malt for $99.99? We’re hoping you’ll be excited because we’re absolutely thrilled! Glenturret isn’t a household name among whisky drinkers, but for those in the know it’s part of the Edrington portfolio: the group that owns Macallan, Highland Park, and Glenrothes. Glenturret is also considered the oldest distillery in Scotland, having been founded in 1775, and today it’s the home of Famous Grouse: the world-renowned blended whisky in which it plays a large role. This 28 year old expression has reduced naturally down to a perfectly-drinkable 49.7% ABV and has the richness, oiliness, and concentration that only mature whisky can offer. It’s full of brandied fruit, resin, supple caramel, and creamy malted goodness. Despite its old age, the whisky is surprisingly lithe and light on its feet. By no means is this a heavy, full-bodied number, but rather a classic Highland whisky with plenty of barrel-aged complexity. For the price, it’s a no brainer.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Rich, thick depth of tropical fruit salad, herbal spice, subtly floral with a note of malted milk balls.
Palate: Viscous, creamy mouthfeel, crème brluee, fruity (plums, lemon curd) before sharpening to a pepper spice – and then softening up again; a bit of water thins the mouthfeel a bit, but opens up the fruity sweetness further, adding a cereal grain note.
Finish: Long, and softly drying.
Comments: I’d never had anything from Glenturret, and this was more of an opportunistic purchase than anything (had the chance to pop into one of K&L’s stores, and thought “$100 for 28yr single malt? Why not!”) One of the better $100 blind purchases I’ve made. This is a lovely dram, and while very drinkable at bottled/cask strength – it stands up to water nicely. This was one of three bottles I picked up during my visit, and the only one I sought a back-up of. As a single cask private selection (which was sold out in short order), I don’t expect to have another chance to add a third, but this would be an insta-buy for me if I did.
Rating: Must Buy

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Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire and Centenaire Sidecar

Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire
40% ABV
$150-$199
Website

What the Blender Says
Introduced in 1927, Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire
commemorates the 100th anniversary of the House of Marnier
Lapostolle. Cuvée du Centenaire is an exceptional blend of refined
XO Cognacs combined with exotic bitter orange liqueur. It is 82% XO Cognac.

It is a superb, fine and complex liqueur, with flavors and aromas
from the old Cognacs, including mild tobacco and balsamic.
Cuvée du Centenaire has earned multiple awards, including
Double Gold at the 2017 San Francisco Spirits Competition, as
well as an “Extraordinary” designation and the Chairman’s Trophy
at the 2017 Ultimate Spirits Challenge.

TASTING NOTES
COLOR: Beautiful medium amber color.
AROMA: Superb, rich finesse and complexity of candied orange notes, hints of tobacco and balsamic originating from the cognac.
TASTE: Round and velvety notes from the characteristics of older cognac blends with lingering flavors of dried fruit, almonds and honey.
FINISH: Lovely lingering finish with nuances of orange essence, dried fruit with powerful notes of cognac.

It is best served neat or on the rocks or enjoyed in a special
cocktail like the Centenaire Sidecar.

What Gary Says
Nose:  Cognac more dominant compared with the Cordon Rouge, with sweet exotic orange spice, floral notes, hints of tea and sandalwood.
Palate:  Rich, creamy mouthfeel with complex fruit (tangelo, grapes, sultanas), honey, tea, and just a hint of cinnamon.
Finish:  Long, sweet and satisfying.
Comments:  That orange sweetness is still there for sure, but in a more subdued fashion.  Much better balanced with the sophisticated, older cognac – and a lot of flavor for 40% ABV.  If you’re a fan of sipping Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge and looking for something fancy, more complex, and nuanced – I would call this a ‘Must Try’.  The higher percentage of cognac (Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge is 51% or more cognac) and upgraded quality of cognac definitely stand out, and make for a much more refined sipper.  I did try adding a bit of water to it, and found that it tamped down the cognac’s complexity and subtly far more than the sweetness of the orange liqueur, throwing it out of balance for my liking.  I’d recommend enjoying this neat, and if I wanted it chilled – throw a glass in the freezer.
Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

I followed their recommendation rather than working this into a whiskey-based cocktail.

Grand Sidecar (or Centenaire Sidecar)

1 oz Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire
½ oz VSOP cognac (I used Remy Martin)
½ oz freshly squeezed lemon juice
Garish with orange twist

Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass with ice. Shake and strain into a coupe glass.

Note – they recommend the “Centenaire Sidecar” but don’t list that on their site, so making the assumption it is a simple swap within the recipe posted for the Grand Sidecar.

With a fine spirit like the Cuvée du Centenaire, I followed their recipe exactly (other than the glassware). I also didn’t try to contrast it with a typical sidecar, but did make a Grand Sidecar to better understand how it changes the cocktail.

What Gary Thought:  To start, I hadn’t ever had a Sidecar before (or not that I remember), and wasn’t sure what to expect.  Based on the ingredients, I expected it would be sour, and boy was it.  I found both the Grand Sidecar and Centenaire Sidecar to be incredibly sour – so much so that I couldn’t really tell one from the other (which in my opinion was a crying shame, knowing how lovely the Cuvée du Centenaire is on its own!)  It reminds me of a whiskey sour where the “sour” is really the star of the show.

Maybe the lemon I had was a real zinger (I measured pretty precisely to the recipe).  I did check some other Sidecar recipes and found several had the same ratio of lemon juice to the other components (1 in 4 parts wasn’t uncommon, although several were 1 in 5, or 1 in 7).

Since I’d only taken a small sip, I decided to improvise and go back to my mixing glass and add another 1oz Cuvée du Centenaire and ½ oz VSOP cognac – effectively cutting the ratio of lemon juice in half.  Shook that with some ice and added to the original.  Much improved for my liking, although still fairly sour.  The complexity of the Cuvée du Centenaire is there, although it is fighting through the lemon juice.

If you’re a fan of the Sidecar, this might be just absolutely delicious – although I cannot in good faith recommend using this lovely spirit in that cocktail.  To my palate, the difference in using Grand Marnier Cordon Rogue vs this is so incredibly minor, it is borderline criminal.  I’d guess that the vast majority of folks wouldn’t find a difference if given both blind – or if they found a difference, could tell which one was “better”.  Don’t get me wrong – I love a good whiskey sour from time to time, but I don’t use my top shelf bourbon in that for the same reason.  Then again – I also don’t tell people what to do with their whiskey, or spirits.  If you pick up a bottle of the Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire, however you enjoy it is up to you.  Personally, I’d sip and savor every last drop neat, or if I pour a larger pour maybe with an ice cube.

Cheers!
Gary

We would like to thank HL Group for sending us a sample to review and play with!

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