Review

Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy

/ / Other Spirits, Review /

Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy

40% ABV
$50-$70
Website
Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy

What the Distillery Says

In 1982, Ansley Coale and Hubert Germain-Robin brought a 13HL antique potstill to Mendocino County, rescuing it from an abandoned distillery in Cognac. Since 1983, Germain-Robin has
used craft methods to distill premium varietal wine grapes, grapes superior to those distilled in Cognac. Their brandies are the pure, focused concentration of the varietal characteristics of some of California’s best wine grapes – and now appples. Cellared in French Limousin Oak, brought to bottling proof with filtered rainwater, these brandies have been frequently reviewed as among the finest distilled spirits in the world.

We’ve been distilling apples since 1991. About 9 years ago, we learned that long-time apple plantings in nearby Anderson Valley were semi-abandoned: their heirloom cultivars had little commercial value. By paying a premium, we were able to preserve the orchards and to obtain wonderful distilling material. The climate is perfect: warm sunny days for ripe flavor, cool coastal nights for crisp acidity. This brandy is exceptionally smooth, long, and complex.

Apple brandy is in limited production, some 250-300 cases each year. We distill and cellar each apple cultivar (ever heard of Black Twig, Ribston Pippin, or Wickson?) separately if possible, blending the brandies when they have had time to fully develop their individual qualities. The blend includes distillates ranging in age from 6 to 15 years, some of it coming, solera style, from a reserved portion of the previous year’s release. Descent to bottling proof is with filtered rainwater.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Freshly cut apples with subtle cider spices, a hint of anise and clove with a winey note.
Palate:  Sweet, apple cider with a nutty pepper note on the back, a tad thin.
Finish:  Moderately long, drying with slightly sour apples.
Comments:  This is the first apple brandy I’ve ever had, so making zero claims to how this stands up to others. Honestly, brandy isn’t a spirit I’ve spent a lot of time with (anyone is welcome to have at “Brandy Apostle”). For me, this was like a super-refined apple cider. There are some nice spice notes (subtle by comparison to a cider, but more than you might get in an apple wine), but quite heavy on the apple. Not objectionable, and a nice break for a fall afternoon, but just not in my wheelhouse.

Rating: Average

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Talisker 57° North

/ / Island, Review, Scottish Whisky /

Talisker 57° North Single Malt

57.8% ABV
$75
Website
Talisker 57 North
We would like to thank Paul (who shares reviews on Distiller.com, as well as reviews and general musings on his YouTube channel Dapper Drams) for the sample to review!

What the Distillery Says

Talisker 57° North takes its name from this remote, rugged and windswept distillery’s latitude. And rightly so, because this is an untamed, natural expression of the Talisker’s full power: a volcanic, intensely appealing flavour that most drinkers will have only experienced in a cask strength bottling.

Appearance: Full gold.
Nose: Clean and intense, with the light smoke of a struck match. Creamy toffee balanced by fruit. Hints of seaweed, heather blossom and vanilla.
Body: Explosive, intense and smoky.
Palate: Sweet, with smoke and tar exploding around the middle – evoking the raw volcanic power which formed Skye’s famous Black Cuillin mountains.
Finish: Oily, tingling with the signature pepperiness. Smoother with water.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Big sea-mist, iodine, oysters, sea-brine, acrid smoke, vanilla with hints of chocolate.
Palate:  Sweet with apricots, pears and caramel to start, than a pepper pop midway through with sulfur, smoke and peat.
Finish:  Long, drying with pepper and sea salt.
Comments:  This is Talisker with the volume turned up past 11. A non-age stated bottling, but nothing in my experience would lead me to believe it is young. While the proof will up the umph, taking a 5 yr malt at near cask strength wouldn’t be that similar of a profile when diluted.  After making my notes, I decided to take 10 mL and bring it down to about 92 proof, and it reminded me of Talisker 10 yr – so my guess is that it isn’t far off in terms of age.  Regardless of age, this is just delicious.  If you are a fan of Talisker or peaty malts in general, I’d highly recommend trying it.  I think you’d enjoy it.

Rating: Must Try

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Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky

/ / Other Whisk(e)ys, Review / ,

Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky

45% ABV
$70-$75
Website
Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky

What the Distillery Says

The Coffey Still is the world’s first patented continuous still invented by Mr. Aeneas Coffey in 1830. Masataka Taketsuru valued the feature of this type of still, which retains the flavors of ingredients and also creates a distinctive texture.

Coffey Grain and Coffey Malt are Nikka’s signature grain whiskies which show the beauty of our Coffey Stills.

Coffey Malt is made from 100% malted barley. However it is not categorized as “malt whisky” but as “grain whisky” since it is not distilled in a pot still. This unique production method results in extraordinary flavors and texture.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Sweet malt with butterscotch, vanilla flan, over-ripe pears, subtle oak and spice
Palate:  Lovely fruit notes of peaches, pears, plums, cherries, a bit of coconut, with a viscous mouthfeel.
Finish:  Moderately long with notes of fruit salad.
Comments:  This is a very nice malt. On the sweet side to be sure, but not sickeningly sweet. I get a nice range of fruit flavors, but clearly a malt whisk(e)y. Really shows that a column or Coffey still can make some lovely whisk(e)y, which fans of bourbon have known for years.

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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Caol Ila Unpeated 18 Yr 2017 Release

/ / Islay, Review, Scottish Whisky /

Caol Ila 18 yr ‘Unpeated Style’
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Natural Cask Strength
Special Release 2017

59.8% ABV
$125 (SRP @ release)
Website
Caol Ila 18 Yr Old Unpeated Style

What the Distillery Says

This unusual limited release 18 year old is the oldest unpeated CAOL ILA ever bottled and was matured in refill American Oak casks. It has a style as
clean and fresh as the pale sky that follows clearing rain, with a bitter-sweet warmth and an appetising salty edge. Crisp, smooth hints of fruit and a wild strawberry sweetness dance boldly across the tongue like flecks of foam over wind-lashed waves.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Cut hay, salted caramel and vanilla, strawberry greens, gentle smoke and a hint of salted sea air; a bit of water brings out more smoke and maritime notes.
Palate:  Rich and thick mouthfeel that starts soft and gradually warms, caramel with berries, apricots, peaches, pears, bit of allspice and smoke pick-up in the middle along with honey malt.
Finish:  Long with a warm and subtle spice nod.
Comments:  Wow – this is delicious! I like Caol Ila, and when I heard ‘unpeated’ I’ll admit that my immediate thought was ‘Folks, if it ain’t broke – don’t fix it’. I was curious how this would be without the peat, and I am so glad to have had a chance to try this. Just a lovely, complex dram that highlights the craftsmanship of the makers. Some might wonder if peated malt is a lower quality (where the peat can cover up some mistakes). This shows that isn’t the case. Takes water well, although drinks like it is closer to 50% than 60%.

Rating: Must Try

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New Riff Single Barrel Bourbon

/ / Bourbon, Review /

New Riff Single Barrel Bourbon

Distilled Fall 2015, Bottled Fall 2019
Barrel 15-4134
55.8% ABV
$50
Website
New Riff Single Barrel Bourbon

What the Distillery Says

BARREL PROOF WITHOUT CHILL FILTRATION
AGED AT LEAST 4 YEARS
HIGH RYE MASH BILL – 30 % RYE

New Riff Distilling’s core Bourbon expression is a genuinely high-rye, full bodied whiskey offering savory, spicy character, bottled at Barrel Proof without Chill Filtration. Featuring a mash bill of non-GMO grains at 65% corn, 30% rye, and 5% malted barley, it represents a new riff on Kentucky’s most hallowed whiskey traditions. Aged four years in 53-gallon toasted and charred new oak barrels, there are no shortcuts taken in our production. All New Riff whiskeys are made with the full sour mash Kentucky Regimen; all carry an age statement, and are always bottled without chill filtration.

At New Riff, single barrel expressions are a way of life. As former Kentucky liquor retailers, we are intimately familiar with some of Kentucky’s most famed private barrel Bourbon selections ever, and we bring that experience to New Riff. A New Riff Private Barrel selection, whether for trade or private clients, offers an unparalleled experience, replete with tasting notes and an immersive process in our warehouse. Each New Riff single barrel has been tasted and approved by our production panel. Our retail and on-premise partners then select each of their private barrels themselves. In the end, you can taste a New Riff Single Barrel knowing it was fully vetted and thoroughly tasted and approved.

TASTING NOTES
While each Single Barrel owns its specific flavor profile, New Riff Bourbon generally shows big and spicy flavors. This is not a light, delicate, simple whiskey—we have crafted for robust and fulsome flavor from start to finish. Our unfiltered bottling regimen allows all the character of the barrel to shine through in the glass.

Appearance: Extra rich, unfiltered deep amber color.
Nose: Butterscotch rounding into fresh oak, with hints of vanilla and rye spice.
Taste: Broad, fulsome mouthfeel, leading to a sweeter vanilla accent, before a gathering of rye spices (clove, cinnamon, mint, dark berry) into the finish.
Finish: Long, rye-led finish, with brambly red-black fruits amid white pepper and clove.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Corn flakes, vanilla, light caramel cremes, cinnamon, oak with a bit of anise and clove.
Palate:  A tad sharp and on the spicy side with caramel and vanilla, brown sugar, oak, hints of dark chocolate and toffee.
Finish:  Short, drying with toffee, brown sugar and spice.
Comments:  For a four year old bourbon, this is solid. I like that New Riff isn’t cutting corners, and using full sized barrels (and appreciate the non-chill filtration!)  Also really liked what I heard in an interview with Ken Lewis by Bourbon Pursuit (which was after I wrote this review).  At this price point, you’re paying a premium like you would with a craft distillery – but getting a solid whiskey, and supporting folks who are in the whiskey business to make great whiskey. I’m hoping that as products get some age (and they recoup some of their fixed costs) the prices will come down.  One thing I’m not a big fan of is their bottle.  I like to see the color of my whisk(e)y in the bottle, and the matte black treatment done to the top half (which I find is well executed as it fades, and artistically is attractive) tends to make it more difficult to see the true color of the whisk(e)y.  I’m not throwing that out as an accusation (the bourbon in the glass has a nice color, even at just four years old), but just an observation.

Rating: Stands Out

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