It’s been a busy summer. We have a whole mess of new stuff coming in.
Highland Park Earl Haakon Timeframe: July 2011 ABV: 54.9% Price: $260 This 18 year old is the third Earl Magnus release. It’s supposed to be a darker take on both the Magnus series and the standard 18 year old. It’s named for Saint Magnus’s “deceitful and murderous” cousin!
HighWest 36th Vote Timeframe: Now ABV: 36% Price: $45 This is High West’s “Barreled Manhattan” celebrating Utah’s vote to repeal Prohibition. It’s 2 parts High West Rye, 1 part sweet vermouth and bitters that was put together and aged for 90 to 120 days in rye whiskey barrels.
Auchentoshan Bordeaux Cask Timeframe: Summer 2011 ABV: 58% Price: $75 This limited release is an 11 year old Auchentoshan matured in Bordeaux casks and comes non-chill filtered. You read that right, not finished but fully matured in Bordeaux casks.
Auchentoshan Valinch Timeframe: TBD ABV: 57.5% Price: TBD This new release is a response from the distillery to long time fans requesting a cask strength, non-chill-filtered version of the Auchentoshan Classic. It gets its name from the pipette used to draw the whisky out of the cask.
Black Bull Special Reserve No. 1 Timeframe: TBD ABV: 46.6% Price: $105 This is Duncan Taylor’s newest Black Bull extension. This blend uses a 50% malt to grain ratio like the 12 and 30 year olds. There’s only 978 bottles of this so grab it if you can.
Tomatin Decades Timeframe: TBD ABV: 46% Price: $115 Those familiar with the Parker’s Heritage Golden Anniversary release will be familiar with this idea. To celebrate Master Distiller Douglas Campbell’s 50th year of serve this is mixture of whiskies from all the decades of Mr. Campbell’s career. Only 9,000 bottles worldwide!
Tomatin 30 Year Old Timeframe: Late 2011 ABV: 46% Price: $200 This new release is replacing the old 25 Year Old. It will be an ongoing limited release of 2,000 bottles per year.
Kilchoman Spring 2011 Release Timeframe: Now ABV: 46% Price: $65 The latest Kilchoman release is a marriage of three and four year old whiskies aged in first-fill bourbon barrels. The four year old component was finished in oloroso sherry casks.
American Spirit Whiskey Timeframe: Now ABV: 40% Price: Marketed as an alternative to vodka, this new white dog release comes to us from a Charleston, SC bottler.
Arkansas Young Bourbon Whiskey Timeframe: Now ABV: 46% Price: $24.99/375ml This one is a new wheated bourbon from Rock Town Distiller in Arkansas.
Laphroaig Cairdeas Timeframe: Now ABV: 50.5% Price: $65 Laphroaig’s latest in this release series is an 8 year old aged exclusively in Maker’s Mark barrels. Apparently, the barrels and warehouse location make this 8 year old worthy of a price tag rivaling the old 15 year old. You’ll have to decide for yourself.
Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve Timeframe: August 2011 ABV: 44% Price: $125 This new limited release from Dalmore isn’t a replacement for the old Cigar Malt. Rather this is a whole new expression the vein of other recent limited releases. This one is specifically formulated for cigar pairing. Some of our good friends were nice enough to send me a review sample so I hope to have that posted this weekend.
As always, if we missed or misstated anything please let us know.
Like most everyone else on the planet I have an opinion about just about everything. Remember what they say about opinions*. However, as I get older and farther down the whiskey trail my feelings and opinions on certain whiskey related subjects tend to stem more from a frustration at the stifling mandates of others directed out at the masses and the reproduction of misinformation. A great example of this is the whole “Jack Daniels isn’t bourbon” argument that supposedly knowledgeable people continue to regurgitate. (Psst, JD can legally be called bourbon, they just choose not to.) I find both the misinformation and mandates more unbearable as time goes on. As a result, my opinions about such things become stronger and more forthcoming. It’s in this vein that I’d like to talk about glass.
I find glassware and its discussion to be a rather amusing and continually ongoing side note to whiskey drinking. Some of you may already want to stop me after that last sentence and correct me that specific glassware is more about “whiskey appreciation” than the mere drinking of the spirit. That’s fine; we’ll talk about that too. For the sake of this discussion let’s limit the drinking to enjoying your dram straight or with a little water. It’s hard to use most of the glassware we’ll talk about for scotch on the rocks or bourbon and ginger.
When you google the phrase “whiskey glass” the hit count comes in north of 16 million. “Scotch glass” gets you 15 million hits. “Bourbon glass” comes in at 9.1 million. “Whisky glass” comes in at a paltry 1.2 million hits. If you want to look at renowned glassware maker Riedel you can find multiple glasses specific to whiskey, scotch, bourbon, and unspecified spirits. I don’t really recommend going through all 40 million plus google hits. I looked at quite a few and I think it’s safe to pare the multitudes down to the following classifications: • Rocks/Old Fashioned glasses • Shot glasses • Snifters • Cordial glasses • Nosing glasses • Designated “whiskey” glasses Of course if you roll like Tommy Gavin out of Rescue Me then you might drink your 8 fingers of Midleton’s Very Rare out of a Collins or highball glass but we’ll assume you have a little more restraint than that. So with this dizzying array of options how do you know what you should be using? Let’s talk about each in turn. (Note: Each of these glasses can be found in a multitude of designs but the depictions below should reflect a “typical” representation.)
Rocks Glasses
Rocks glasses and Old Fashioned glasses are the quintessential classic whiskey glass. They are typically in the 4 to 8 ounces range with solid bases and straight or slightly sloping sides. Think of the glass you’d be drinking your scotch out of as an extra on the set of Mad Men. The benefits are that this is a solid and hefty glass; easy to find; works with cocktails, on the rocks, or whiskey straight.
Shot Glasses
Anyone’s who ever imbibed in spirits of any kind could probably draw a picture of a shot glass. These range in so many different varieties that I almost couldn’t say what’s typical anymore. However, they tend to be in the 1 to 2 ounce range and are pretty solidly made. These are cheap to buy, don’t break easily, and compact enough to store anywhere. This glass lends itself more to the frat boy pounding type of whiskey consumption.
Cordial Glasses
Cordial glasses can come in almost as many varieties as shot glasses. They even kind of look like shot glasses on the end of stems. They almost always have a stem and also are typically in the 1 to 2 ounces range. The stem prevents heat transfer from the hand to the whiskey, preventing flavor alteration. Some varieties have a slightly tulip shaped top allowing for better nosing by concentrating the aromas. Think of drinking your whiskey with Grandmother on the terrace of the family estate.
Snifters
Snifters are another type that most people have at least seen if not used. Originally designed for brandies, these glasses have a wide base, inward curving body, and a slight stem with a wide foot. Snifters can be relatively small or quite large in excess of 20 ounces. These glasses are intended to be held in the palm with the stem between the fingers. Resting the body of the glass in the palms allow for the slow warming of the spirit. Some folks like this aspect and others don’t. Also, like the cordial glasses the aromas are concentrated toward the opening by the shape. You might sport this glassware while sipping slowly in a leather lounge chair in a wood paneled study.
Nosing Glasses
Nosing glasses are growing in popularity with growth of fine spirits. Originally, these glasses were used mainly by spirit producers and blenders to nose their creations. Hence the name “nosing” glass. In many ways these glasses resemble a champagne flute with an opening designed to concentrate aromas. These glasses can be quite delicate so be care with use, cleaning, and storage. Some varieties even come with a little glass came to aroma from escaping between sips. Think of nosing whiskeys with Richard Paterson at a Whyte & Mackay laboratory.
Designated Whiskey Glasses
Relatively new on the scene are a number designated whiskey glasses. Riedel offers version specific for scotch and bourbon while other companies offer many others. No glass has seen as much rapid growth in popularity as the Glencairn Whisky Glass (pictured below) which recently hit 7 million in total sales. I’m not going to say one designated whiskey glass is better than another. They all vary and they do so for specific reasons. Each glass has its own story. If any of these glasses interest you then I recommend checking out those stories to see why they are made the way they are. You might see one of these in your goody bag at the next WhiskyFest New York. So with all these different variations available where does that leave us in figuring what we should use? Personally, I don’t really think it matters. All that matter is that you enjoy what you’re drinking. If there is a certain aspect of one of these types of glasses that appeals to your enjoyment of a fine drink then you might want to explore that offering. If aroma and enhanced flavor is your game then maybe a snifter, nosing glass, or designated whiskey glass might be a good option. If you want a sturdy glass with which to knock back your everyday dram then you might be a rocks or shot glass kind of person. You might even want to do a little trial and error to find what’s right for you. Don’t put so much credence in what glass others tells you to use. At a recent meeting of the Georgia Bourbon Society I was discussing glass merits with a couple of the society founders. The general consensus of these men who are well learned in the ways of fine drink was that over time they’ve gravitated toward glasses that fit well in the hand. It’s more about comfort for them rather than appropriateness. I tend to agree. So what kind of glass do I use? Admittedly it depends on whether I’m reviewing a whiskey or simply drinking it. Regardless, it shouldn’t matter to you what I use. Use whatever you like best.
Drink wisely my friends,
Richard
* For those readers outside of the U.S. or those just not familiar with the expressions it goes like this: “Opinions are like assholes, everyone’s got one.”
Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Aged 18 Years 43% ABV/86 Proof $80 to $100 Widely available
What the Distillery Says: First released in 1997, Highland Park immediately found favour with whisky writers and enthusiasts all over the world. It is a perfectly balanced single malt with a toffee sweetness and a mouthwateringly smokey finish.
Tasting Notes
Appearance:Natural colour; burnished gold, clear and bright Nose:Rich, mature oak; top note of aromatic smoke Palate:Rich, full flavour; honey and peat Finish:Soft, round and long
The nose of Highland Park 18 Year Old displays characteristic toffee sweetness and an almond nuttiness reminiscent of marzipan. The finish is a prolonged, full, smokey aftertaste.
What Richard Says: Nose: Dark fruit, sherry, polished oak, heather, buttery sweetness. Palate: Smokey, rich, kind of oily, sweet and salty playing together, a little nutty. Finish: Warm, peaty, a little spicy, and hotter than I expected. Comments: A true classic. This is an amazingly complex whisky. It changes every time I try another dram. To me, this is the best sub-$100 18 Year Old single malt available. I almost don’t want to say that you must buy it because I don’t want to run low. Rating: Must Buy
Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Aged 16 Years 40% ABV/80 Proof $100 Collectible (Previously Travel Retail Exclusive)
What the Distillery Says: This variant of Highland Park was created exclusively for global travel retail and duty free markets and was first released in October 2005, it was withdrawn in April 2010. Highland Park 16 Year Old is gloriously smooth, sweet single malt with an island-infused flavour and a rich smokey finish.
Tasting Notes
Appearance:Natural colour, clear and bright Nose:Sherried smoke peat, spicy Palate:Rich, full flavour, smokey heather honey Finish:Rich, long medium sweet then medium dry
Highland Park 16 Year Old has an emphatic honeyed sweetness on the nose with notes of citrus fruits and sea spray. On the palate this whisky tingles the front of the tongue then immediately makes the mouth water, leaving a rich smokey sensation.
What Richard Says: Nose: Much more earthy and sherried than the 1994. Citrus and vanilla. Palate: Not nearly as sweet as the 1994. Smokey and herbal/vegetal come to mind. A little bitter. Finish: Dry. Again very little in common with the 1994. Comments: This fella was discontinued in 2010 and replaced by the 1994 vintage as part of the duty free/travel retail range. I personally think it’s a very big improvement. There’s nothing about this that makes me want to drop the $100+ to scrounge up a bottle. Rating: Average
Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Vintage 1994 40% ABV/80 Proof $75 Travel Retail Exclusive
What the Distillery Says: This variant of Highland Park is exclusively for global travel retail and duty free markets and was first released in April 2010 having been distilled in 1994.
Midway through the decade the world was gaining confidence after the early 1990s recession. Nelson Mandela became President of South Africa. France and England were joined physically as the Channel Tunnel welcomed its first passengers. The Winter Olympics were held in Lillehammer and Schindler’s List picked up seven Academy Awards.
George Foreman was still boxing and became the oldest heavyweight champion in history. Brazil won the FIFA World Cup Final. Michael Schumacher won his first Formula One world title in the same season that the mercurial Ayrton Senna lost his life the day after Roland Ratzenberger died in practice. British teen diving sensation Tom Daly was born.
Tasting Notes
Appearance:Rich, warm amber hue. Nose:Warm caramel to the fore coupled with hints of almonds. Dark fruit, including cherries and figs, are slowly revealed as the whisky opens up. Palate:Caramel and soft smoky notes intertwine with cinnamon and rich dried fruits. Beautifully mature. Finish:Lingering warming smoky finish.
What Richard Says: Nose: Rich and welcoming like fresh baked monkey bread. A lot of cherry. Palate: Much sweeter than anticipated. Rich and smokey. Finish: Slow…very slow. The oak and smoke (great name for a whiskey/cigar bar) dance well together. Comments: Oh this is quite nice. It’s not a classic like the 18 Year but well worth a sip if you get the chance. Rating: Must Try