July 2019

Lagavulin 8 Yrs Old Single Malt

Lagavulin 8 Yrs Old

48% ABV
$60-$70
Website
Lagavulin 8 yr old

What the Distillery Says

This bicentenary limited edition is magnificently full-on in flavour – a celebration of the people and craft that make Lagavulin great.

Nose: Immediately quite soft with clean, fresh notes, faint hints of milk chocolate and lemon and then developing fragrant tea-scented smoke alongside nose-drying, maritime aromas, with subtle cereal. A prickliness seen earlier now develops, while the trademark Lagavulin dryness emerges as fresh newsprint. Softly sooty. Softer, fuller and more rounded with water: it’s not hugely fruity but there’s just a trace of red berry preserve, perhaps, beneath the smokiness, which comes sharply into focus.

Palate: A soothing light texture, with a magnificently full on Lagavulin taste that’s somehow even bigger than you expect; sweet, smoky and warming, with a growing, smoky pungency, then dry, with more smoke. Charred, with minty, dark chocolate. Beautifully balanced midpalate then salty, oven-charred baked potato skins and smoke. Water rounds things, the taste still mighty yet more succulent, sweeter, spicier and now tongue-tingling, mint-fresh and warming.

Finish: Lovely; clean, very long and smoky. Smoothly, subtle minted smoke surrounds chocolate tannins, leaving a late drying note to emerge in time. It’s warming, soft and still smoky with water, not as long or intense now, yet still leaving the palate dry as sweet smoke lingers on the breath.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Peat smoke, earthy, musty, light iodine, notes of husky grains.
Palate:  Sweet peat, honey with a sharper oak and pepper spice.
Finish: Moderately long, drying with a hint of stout (seriously – Guinness?).
Comments:  Compared with Lagavulin 16 yr, the color is much lighter, the nose is less rich, and the palate is sweeter but has less depth. But for being only 8 yrs old, it is surprisingly delicious. Unmistakably Lagavulin. I’m sure the higher proof helps with the comparison (and leaves me dreaming of what 16 or 20 yr old cask strength Lagavulin must be like). Fans of Lagavulin should seek this out if only to experience the whiskey at half the age. I was definitely impressed on that score.

Rating: Stands Out

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Lagavulin 16 Yrs Old Single Malt

Lagavulin 16 Yrs Old

43% ABV
$90-$100
Website
Lagavulin 16 yr

What the Distillery Says

Aged in oak casks for at least sixteen years, this much sought-after single malt has the massive peat-smoke that’s typical of southern Islay – but also offering a dryness that turns it into a truly interesting dram.

Region: A roaring bonfire from the coast of Islay.
Appearance: Deep amber gold.
Nose: Intensely flavoured, peat smoke with iodine and seaweed and a rich, deep sweetness.
Body: Full, rich bodied.
Palate: Dry peat smoke fills the palate with a gentle but strong sweetness, followed by sea and salt with touches of wood.
Finish: A long, elegant peat-filled finish with lots of salt and seaweed.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Intense peat smoke, worn leather, cigar paper, creosote, iodine, all on an musty, earthy foundation.
Palate:  Sweet peat notes with oak and honey to start, before nutty spice and a hint of bitter cocoa; subtle notes of celery.
Finish:  Long and lovely, slowly drying with peat smoke and hints of pepper.
Comments:  If you like peat, this is absolutely a ‘Must Try’. I’ll admit – I was surprised we hadn’t ever reviewed this – and upon that discovery set about to correct that oversight. A very well balanced pour – bold without being too aggressive. In fact, in terms of peaty single malts, I’d say this is the most seductive of the various Islay distillery’s standard bearers.

Rating: Must Try

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Breckenridge Distillers High Proof Blend

Breckenridge Distillers High Proof Blend Bourbon

52.5% ABV
$56-$60
Website
Breckenridge Distillers High Proof

What the Distillery Says

Breckenridge A Blend of Straight Bourbon Whiskeys

Preserving the essence of our raw barrel character by bottling at a gripping 105 proof, our Distiller’s High Proof Blend represents the whiskey as our master blenders experience it (for the true experience sip 20 samples at 8:00 AM, before coffee). Deep burnt umber hue with aromas of rich butter caramel and toasted almond paste. Medium body with a luscious vanilla sugar flavor and a long balanced finish.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Musty oak, salted caramel, cinnamon, vanilla wafers.
Palate:  Warm, sharp sweetness, caramel corn, oak with pepper spice and hints of orange zest.
Finish:  Moderately long, drying with caramel and cinnamon.
Comments:  A bit oaky, but not excessive to the point where it is offputting. Appreciate the higher proof, but it doesn’t hold up well to water; thins out very quickly. After making my notes, I tried this side-by-side with Jim Beam’s Distiller’s Cut (100 proof), and I preferred that easily.

Rating: Average

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Breckenridge Bourbon Whiskey

Breckenridge Bourbon Whiskey

43% ABV
$40 – $45
Website

What the Distillery Says

Breckenridge Bourbon Whiskey A Blend
Deep honey-amber hue with warm, pronounced aromas of under-ripe banana and brown sugar, with spicy notes of white pepper and toasted sesame. Light body with warm texture and long sweet oak, vanilla finish with a touch of bitterness to balance. Reminiscent of a slice of toasted rye bread with honey drizzled on it.

We mash, ferment and distill a lot of Bourbon in house. Our blend of Bourbon Whiskeys also consists of Barrels selected from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana chosen for their unique qualities, heritage, and ability to marry in our blend, always made from a high-rye mash bill.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Freshly baked and buttered cornbread with honey drizzled atop, vanilla, oak with pine trees.
Palate: Starts sweet, thin mouthfeel of cornflakes, vanilla and honey that sharpens with some oak and spice.
Finish:  Short and fleeting, with drying oak notes.
Comments:  This tastes like young bourbon to me, not that there is anything offputting about it – but nothing that would leave me wanting another pour. After making my notes, I decided to try this blind against Old Forester 86 proof, and it was no contest for me preferring the Old Forester. While not offputting, at this price point I can’t in good conscious consider it even average.

Rating: Probably Pass

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Thoughts on Proposed TTB Rule Changes

From time to time, the TTB (or Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau within the Department of the Treasury) proposes rule changes, and they’ll post these on-line and allow a period of public comment.  I’ll be the first to admit that searching out proposed changes to government regulation isn’t what I enjoy doing with my spare time.  Thankfully the fine folks at WhiskeyCast did a great summary on a recent proposed change that did catch my attention – which is the proposed change to eliminate all but the minimum and maximum standards for containers sizes for distilled spirits.

When I first discovered Scotch and gained an appreciation for this concept of ‘independent bottlers’, I was immediately energized by the possibilities.  These small companies (ok, some not so small) can purchase barrels of whisky, do what they want with it (including unique finishes, etc), and bottle it – sometimes mentioning the source distillery, sometimes having to imply the source.  As a consumer, it opens up a huge world of different options.  If your’e unfamiliar with this concept, let me give you an example:

Let’s say your favorite single malt is Laphroaig.  You’ve tried most of their lineup and have enjoyed most of what you’ve tried.  In the US, you’re limited to a handful of options (10 yr, 10 yr Cask Strength, 18 yr, Lore, Select, Quarter Cask, Cairdeas and a few others).  Now picture this . . . someone asks if you’ve ever wanted to try Laphroaig with a sherry cask finish?  Or maybe a port cask finish?  Oh – and picture that it will be non-chill filtered, natural color, and at cask strength?  All of these are possibilities thanks to independent bottlers, who can take a chance on a single cask with doing something unique/different.  Don’t get me wrong – these are exceptions (there are plenty of independent bottlings that are along the lines of “Laphroaig 13 yr, 46%, NCF” – although you might get that for barely more than the 10yr (as the independent bottlers don’t have the same marketing overhead, etc).

My excitement over this ‘discovery’ (as in, discover for me; this is hardly new and has been a practice in the UK for generations) was almost as quickly squashed when I learned how few of those ever make it to the United States due to our regulations regarding “standards of fill”.

Today in the United States, distilled spirits can only be packaged in specific size containers (50 mL, 100 mL, 200 mL, 375 mL, 750mL, 1 liter, and 1.75 liters).  I wasn’t aware of other container sizes until touring Jim Beam many years ago and seeing the ‘quality control’ stock area which included 4.5 liter bottles (the tour guide explained that some export markets allowed larger and different sized bottles).  After trying some single malt Scotch that was independently bottled and sold overseas, I was disappointed that I may never have the opportunity to try some of these gems.  Why?  The similar standards for the European market (and really for most if not all of the rest of the world) are different – where the ‘standard’ bottle there is 700 ml vs our 750 ml.

Why don’t they just bottle in 750 ml?  I mean – they can, and some certainly do.  But it is a production burden to have one size for one market.  If you’re moving products through the rest of the world, why go through the trouble of buying bottles and making new labels for one market like the United States?  (the answer for some is that we’re a fairly large market, and have a lot more disposable income than others)

I did write my Congressman when I learned of this injustice, and got the prompt “Thank you for your letter, your concerns are really important to me . . . ” form response letter, and just wrote this off as one of those disappointing realities.  While the lifting of such restrictions would potentially be great for me as a whisk(e)y geek, I get it that these were offering some ‘protection’ to domestic producers (although it isn’t like anyone in the US can make Scotch, or anyone in Scotch can make Bourbon . . . so I never fully bought that argument – at least when it came to whisk(e)y).

“So this is awesome news, right?  No downside, right?”

Well . . . not exactly.  There is absolutely a risk that domestic producers like Jim Beam, Buffalo Trace, Wild Turkey, etc will decide “Good – let’s scrap these 750 mL bottles and just do everything as 700 mL without changing the prices from the 750 mL!”  Let’s face it – they’re selling their products overseas, and having to have different setups for the bottle sizes, so this creates an opportunity for efficiency – and I ABSOLUTELY expect that they’ll change to 700 mL.  What I don’t know is whether they will give American consumers the benefit of being good at math (in their defense, there’s a lot of evidence that we’re not so great at math collectively, or rather that we don’t apply it when purchasing whisk(e)y) and reduce their prices by the 9% of whisk(e)y they’d be shorting us if they bottle at 700 mL but still sell at the 750 mL price.

Let me be clear – this is NOT just up to the producers.  There are distributors and resellers (because of some OTHER goofy regulations requiring this three-tiered system we have – another soapbox for another day) in the mix.  A reseller may decide to just pocket any cost savings and not reprice a damn thing.  Prices have been going up pretty much across the board when it comes to bourbon and rye; some more than others.

My thoughts?  I’d prefer to have the opportunity to buy a wider variety of spirits that this change would enable.  If local producers take advantage, maybe I’ll buy more Scotch and bourbon.  At the end of the day, competition will address that – or it won’t.  But as a lover of variety, I’m in favor of the change.

What are your thoughts?  Feel free to share them in the comments.  Oh – and if you are so inclined, you can submit a comment to the TTB until August 30th (here’s the link with the proposed change, and option to comment).

Cheers!
Gary

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