February 2019

Four Roses Elliott’s Select 2016 Limited Edition Single Barrel

Four Roses Elliott’s Select 2016 Limited Edition Single Barrel

56.5% ABV (varies by barrel/bottle)
$125
Website

What the Distiller Says

Barrel strength. OESK. 14 years. Only 10,000 bottles produced. Introducing, Elliott’s Select.

Elliott’s Select is a limited-quantity Single Barrel Bourbon and marks the first limited edition bottling released by Brent Elliott, our master distiller.

Brent Elliott, who assumed the post of master distiller in September 2015, personally hand-selected the 14-year-old OESK, one of the Distillery’s 10 unique Bourbon recipes.

Subtle aromas of peach jam, magnolia blossoms and light oak preview the elegantly-balanced flavors of spiced vanilla, fresh nutmeg and delicate, ripe fruits. Sweet flavors of honey and light apricot linger in the finish.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Rich, thick, robust caramel, fair amount of oak, vanilla, hazelnuts, allspice and nutmeg.
Palate:  Creamy mouthfeel, sweet vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce; a dusting of nutmeg and cinnamon with and a hint of butterscotch that gives way to a pepper spice note.
Finish:  Long and lingering with a hint of cinnamon and a strong hit of pepper spice on the way out.
Comments:  The last few Four Roses samples I’ve spent time with have had a lovely subtle note of butterscotch; reminding me a bit of dusty National Distiller’s bourbon (not nearly that intense though).  The OESK recipe isn’t one of my favorites, but this particular bourbon is delightful.  Rich and robust flavor, wonderfully balanced, and not the slightest bit over-oaked.

Rating: Must Try

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Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2017

Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2017

48% ABV
$80
Website

What the Distiller Says

The 2017 Old Forester Birthday Bourbon was drawn from 12 year old barrels from different warehouses and floors. A total of 120 barrels; 93 barrels matured together on the 4th floor of G warehouse, yielding an extremely spice forward expression. The remaining 27 barrels matured together on the 5th floor of K warehouse contributing a rounding sweetness to the blend. Several barrels from both lots basked in the sun, highlighting the effects of maturation along an external wall.

Barreled on May 27, 2005 – Old Forester 2017 Birthday Bourbon is offered at 96 and 95.4 Proof.

TASTING NOTES
COLOR: Bright golden honey
AROMA: Sweet toasted oak and black pepper with a heavy suggestion of orange oil and toffee
TASTE: Oak spice and charred black pepper dominate over a subtle core of chocolate custard and kola nut.
FINISH: Spicy perimeter mouthfeel that slowly cascades off revealing floral undertones and cocoa powder.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Vanilla, salted caramel, solid dose of oak, brown sugar,  allspice and a hint of raisins; a bit sharp as well.
Palate:  Vanilla, caramel apple, allspice, cinnamon with oaky pepper spice.
Finish:  Short to moderately in length, drying with pepper spice notes.
Comments:  I haven’t bought an Old Forester Birthday Bourbon in many years.  Each year is a bit different; some years have been flat out delicious, where other years have been pretty unremarkable – at least for my palate.  This one sits squarely in that latter camp for me.  Pretty oaky, a bit on the sharp side, and just not well balanced.  When they were $35 a throw, I didn’t mind taking the gamble on what it might be, but at $80 – I expect a consistently great bourbon; because in that price tier – you should.  Maybe others find this hitting right in their wheelhouse consistently; if so – this didn’t strike me as anything particularly off-putting.  Just not particularly special.

Rating: Average

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Four Roses 130th Anniversary Small Batch Limited Edition 2018

Four Roses 130th Anniversary Small Batch Limited Edition 2018

54.2% ABV
$140
Website

What the Distiller Says

If you’d like to experience some of the best Bourbons we’ve ever put in a bottle, ask about our Limited Edition bottlings at your favorite bar or liquor store. From time to time, our Master Distiller hand selects a few exceptional barrels from our 10 Bourbon recipes for these special releases. Each is non-chill filtered and barrel strength, so you get to savor them exactly as they come out of the barrel. Look for them. Find them. Collect them. Share them. Or not.

TASTING NOTES
Nose: Warm aromas of rich vanilla, mingled with raspberries, crème brûlée and ripe berries.
Palate: Bright apricot flavors greet the palate, then give way to hints of mint, cinnamon, apple and mellow oak.
Finish: Very long, with notes of cinnamon, more fruit and vanilla.

Recipes:
10-year-old OBSV
13-year-old OBSF
14-year-old OESV
16-year-old OESK

What Gary Says

Nose:  Rich, vanilla, coffee cake, a floral mustiness, nutty butterscotch, allspice and a hint of anise.
Palate:  Creamy mouthfeel, sweet entry with caramel, vanilla, honey before sharpening with lovely spices (nutmeg, allspice) and oak (maybe a hint of clove).
Finish:  Moderately long, slightly drying with oak spice and a hint of cinnamon.
Comments:  The bit of butterscotch I get from this reminds me of dusty Old Taylor (which is a huge compliment for those unfamiliar). It isn’t the ‘butterscotch bomb’ that you find there, but if tasting blind – I might have guessed this to be mingled with some dusty Old Taylor. This is flat out delicious, which isn’t a surprise to me. I’ve yet to find a Four Roses Small Batch Limited Edition I didn’t think was pretty amazing, and this continues that trend. I lament no longer being able to walk into a store and pick one of these up for $80 (or even the ability to walk in and buy one retail for the current MSRP; locally you’ve got to be in good with a store and get lucky). But if I found myself staring at one in a retail store that wasn’t gouging, this would be an automatic buy for me every time.

Rating: Must Buy

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Trying Before Buying . . . (a whole bottle)

I’ve shared some thoughts on how to guestimate if you might like something that you’ve never tried before, and admitted there that the only foolproof method IS to try it.  But – trying doesn’t means you have to run out and buy an entire bottle.

If you’re just starting out on your whiskey journey, the good news is that you can find a lot of brands offered in “mini” bottles (50 mL; the size you get on an airplane).  Some stores have a pretty wide selection, others not so much.  Now you’re paying a premium when buying a smaller size, but I’d much rather spend $4 on a 50 mL of something and discover I don’t like it than spend $25 on a 750 mL of the same with the same results.  The availability varies based on location, so I’ll focus here on bourbon to illustrate.

Between Georgia and Kentucky (the two states where I’ve made the majority of my whiskey purchases), I’ve seen the following offered in 50 mL mini bottles – typically for $4 or less:

Jim Beam white label, Woodford Reserve, Wild Turkey 101, Evan Williams black label, Maker’s Mark, Jack Daniel’s (spare me the ‘not a bourbon’ emails please), Buffalo Trace, Larceny, Old Forester, and Bulleit bourbon.

Some larger retailers (especially in Kentucky) carry a selection of some higher-end labels in 50 mL minis, which may run $5-$10, but again – same logic applies.  Examples I’ve seen include:

Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel, Baker’s, Booker’s, Four Roses Single Barrel, Knob Creek, Wild Turkey Rare Breed, and Blanton’s.

Most premium whiskies (which for this definition I’ll say are $90 or more for a 700/750 mL bottle) unfortunately aren’t offered in “mini” bottles.  Hell, most aren’t offered in any size other than the standard bottle (700/750 mL), although sometimes you’re pleasantly surprised.  Switching styles to scotch – there is a Johnnie Walker sampler pack with 4 200 mL bottles, including Johnnie Walker Blue Label (locally, this runs about $100).  I looked for that as I wanted to try Johnnie Walker Blue, but didn’t want to spend on a full price bottle (and while paying a premium, the chance to have several visits across their lineup was a lot of fun, and well worth it).

Now you can also try something at a bar or restaurant (also known as “on-premise”) before buying a whole bottle, but have you done the math for what that premium cost?  It isn’t an exact science (and there are different strategies involved, wholesale pricing, etc) – and this isn’t a complaint about on-premise mark-up either (they’ve got labor costs involved, insurance, etc).  But typically the product component is running 20-30% of the price you pay.  For example – one local bar pours 2 oz of Buffalo Trace for $10 (so $5/oz).  A full bottle (25 oz+) runs around $25 – so the retail cost is about $1/oz.  Now sometimes as the product cost increases, the mark-up decreases since the labor costs are really the same (again, NOT in the on-premise business; understand there are all sorts of strategies, market demand, etc).  I’ve seen Johnnie Walker Blue poured for $50 (and $75).  That’s a lot of coin, but again – if I hadn’t ever tried it, even $75 is a lot less than $200-$250 for a bottle (especially if I’m underwhelmed).  So that’s another option to try something before you buy – although personally I reserve that for the more premium offerings.

While most high-end labels aren’t available in the smaller sizes, I recently came across an exception:  Peerless Rye 24 month.  Now while I enjoyed the whiskey, the price (offered around $125, then discounted to $99, and now in some areas down to $69) I think is absurd.  Yes, it is an interesting whiskey to try if you’re a whiskey geek, but an expensive proposition.  So I was floored when browsing a local retailer and I saw they were offering 200 mL bottles of Peerless Rye 24 month for $28.  If I hadn’t tried that before, I absolutely would have bought one just to satisfy my curiosity.

“Wait . . . $28 for a 200 mL?  Seriously?”

Absolutely.  Hear me out – the premium you pay for a 200 mL size is typically 35% to 75%.  For example – Maker’s Mark goes for $10 for a 200 mL while a 750 mL is $22.50; a 67% premium when you calculate the price per mL.  The Peerless Rye 24 month has been going for $100 for a 750 mL.  At the 200 mL pricing, there is barely any premium (5%).  Even when they drop the price to $70; the premium you’re paying is 50%, which isn’t out of the norm.

Now I haven’t gone searching for Peerless Rye at local bars, but if I found it there, and their pricing is based on the new reduced rate of $70, depending upon how they set their price (which is a whole other thing; I get it) I can reasonably expect to pay $20-$25 for a 2 oz pour.  If I’m going to spend $20-$25 for 2 oz (just shut of 60 mL), why wouldn’t I spend $28 and get more than three times that amount?  Not only is it a better price, but with 200 mL I can revisit it multiple times, and better control my tasting environment.  Hell, I could test it in several cocktails, neat, etc.

The Peerless Rye example is an exception to be sure, but a great example of where buying small can save you some money – especially when you’re trying to figure out what you like or don’t like.  I made the mistake when starting out of buying a lot of bottles, only to discover I wasn’t crazy about some – and was stuck with 90% of a bottle.  Yeah, you can mix it in cocktails or cook with it – but life’s too short to have to find ways to get rid of whiskey you just don’t enjoy.

Some other alternatives to consider based on your situation:

    1. Find a whiskey society/club in your area!  These vary greatly in terms of how they work, what they do and don’t do.  I’ve attended function for one where you pay a reasonable fee for some snacks (sometimes a meal) and a tasting of 4-6 various pours (typically a 1/3 oz, but again – this can vary).  I belong to one where it is quite informal, and fellow enthusiasts gather together and share what they care to.  The generosity of this type of group can be (and still is to this day) humbling, and some of the most fun you can have legally and dressed.
    2. Split a bottle with friends!  Maybe you don’t have a club or society, but if you’ve got a couple of friends who are just as keenly interested as you are, but everyone is gun shy about buying a whole bottle “just to find out” – figure out some arrangement to split the cost.  Hell – a $120 bottle split three ways is only $40 for 8 oz (which is likely what you’d pay for a shot in a bar – so splurge and have the opportunity to try it in various settings, neat or on the rocks, in a cocktail, etc.)
    3. Amazon wish-list.  Ok – I’ll admit I’ve done this before when there was something I was interested in, but too cheap to spring for.  Granted – most of my family would rather not buy me another bottle of whiskey for a birthday or Christmas present, so I’d put this at the bottom of my list – but it has worked (although keep in mind pricing expectations and effort; don’t put something down that isn’t fairly easily attainable, and is in whatever price range you’d spend on them!)

Cheers!
Gary

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