July 2011

Highland Park 25 Year

Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whisky Aged 25 Years
48.1% ABV/96.2 Proof
$250 to $350
Available at select retailers

What the Distillery Says:
First released in 1998, Highland Park 25 Years Old is a phenomenal whisky; it has a rich amber glow and an unmistakable taste of smokiness and heather honey with, as you would expect from Highland Park, a hint of peat.

The remarkable complexity of this whisky is due in part to the fact that half of it is matured in first fill Sherry casks. These are very expensive and generally used sparingly in the industry. However, they impart maximum flavour; Highland Park 25 Year Old proves it.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Natural colour; dark red golden, clear and bright
What Richard Says:
Nose: Lots of sherry, heather, cherries, and oak. It’s fruitier than I would’ve thought.
Palate: Rich, heavy on sherry and oak but not “too oaky” by any means. Honey and nice peatiness.
Finish: Very smooth and dry with a little lemon zest.
Comments: Highland Park just ages really well. The only thing I’ve had from the distillery better than this is the 30 year old. Price is really the only thing that keeps me from telling you to run right out and buy a bottle. Another knockout dram from Highland Park.
Rating: Must Try

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New U.S. Releases – July ‘11

It’s been a busy summer. We have a whole mess of new stuff coming in.

Highland Park Earl Haakon
Timeframe: July 2011
ABV: 54.9%
Price: $260
This 18 year old is the third Earl Magnus release. It’s supposed to be a darker take on both the Magnus series and the standard 18 year old. It’s named for Saint Magnus’s “deceitful and murderous” cousin!

HighWest 36th Vote
Timeframe: Now
ABV: 36%
Price: $45
This is High West’s “Barreled Manhattan” celebrating Utah’s vote to repeal Prohibition. It’s 2 parts High West Rye, 1 part sweet vermouth and bitters that was put together and aged for 90 to 120 days in rye whiskey barrels.

Auchentoshan Bordeaux Cask
Timeframe: Summer 2011
ABV: 58%
Price: $75
This limited release is an 11 year old Auchentoshan matured in Bordeaux casks and comes non-chill filtered. You read that right, not finished but fully matured in Bordeaux casks.

Auchentoshan Valinch
Timeframe: TBD
ABV: 57.5%
Price: TBD
This new release is a response from the distillery to long time fans requesting a cask strength, non-chill-filtered version of the Auchentoshan Classic. It gets its name from the pipette used to draw the whisky out of the cask.

Black Bull Special Reserve No. 1
Timeframe: TBD
ABV: 46.6%
Price: $105
This is Duncan Taylor’s newest Black Bull extension. This blend uses a 50% malt to grain ratio like the 12 and 30 year olds. There’s only 978 bottles of this so grab it if you can.

Tomatin Decades
Timeframe: TBD
ABV: 46%
Price: $115
Those familiar with the Parker’s Heritage Golden Anniversary release will be familiar with this idea. To celebrate Master Distiller Douglas Campbell’s 50th year of serve this is mixture of whiskies from all the decades of Mr. Campbell’s career. Only 9,000 bottles worldwide!

Tomatin 30 Year Old
Timeframe: Late 2011
ABV: 46%
Price: $200
This new release is replacing the old 25 Year Old. It will be an ongoing limited release of 2,000 bottles per year.

Kilchoman Spring 2011 Release
Timeframe: Now
ABV: 46%
Price: $65
The latest Kilchoman release is a marriage of three and four year old whiskies aged in first-fill bourbon barrels. The four year old component was finished in oloroso sherry casks.

American Spirit Whiskey
Timeframe: Now
ABV: 40%
Price:
Marketed as an alternative to vodka, this new white dog release comes to us from a Charleston, SC bottler.

Arkansas Young Bourbon Whiskey
Timeframe: Now
ABV: 46%
Price: $24.99/375ml
This one is a new wheated bourbon from Rock Town Distiller in Arkansas.

Laphroaig Cairdeas
Timeframe: Now
ABV: 50.5%
Price: $65
Laphroaig’s latest in this release series is an 8 year old aged exclusively in Maker’s Mark barrels. Apparently, the barrels and warehouse location make this 8 year old worthy of a price tag rivaling the old 15 year old. You’ll have to decide for yourself.

Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve
Timeframe: August 2011
ABV: 44%
Price: $125
This new limited release from Dalmore isn’t a replacement for the old Cigar Malt. Rather this is a whole new expression the vein of other recent limited releases. This one is specifically formulated for cigar pairing. Some of our good friends were nice enough to send me a review sample so I hope to have that posted this weekend.

As always, if we missed or misstated anything please let us know.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

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Through the Drinking Glass

Like most everyone else on the planet I have an opinion about just about everything. Remember what they say about opinions*. However, as I get older and farther down the whiskey trail my feelings and opinions on certain whiskey related subjects tend to stem more from a frustration at the stifling mandates of others directed out at the masses and the reproduction of misinformation. A great example of this is the whole “Jack Daniels isn’t bourbon” argument that supposedly knowledgeable people continue to regurgitate. (Psst, JD can legally be called bourbon, they just choose not to.) I find both the misinformation and mandates more unbearable as time goes on. As a result, my opinions about such things become stronger and more forthcoming. It’s in this vein that I’d like to talk about glass.

I find glassware and its discussion to be a rather amusing and continually ongoing side note to whiskey drinking. Some of you may already want to stop me after that last sentence and correct me that specific glassware is more about “whiskey appreciation” than the mere drinking of the spirit. That’s fine; we’ll talk about that too. For the sake of this discussion let’s limit the drinking to enjoying your dram straight or with a little water. It’s hard to use most of the glassware we’ll talk about for scotch on the rocks or bourbon and ginger.

When you google the phrase “whiskey glass” the hit count comes in north of 16 million. “Scotch glass” gets you 15 million hits. “Bourbon glass” comes in at 9.1 million. “Whisky glass” comes in at a paltry 1.2 million hits. If you want to look at renowned glassware maker Riedel you can find multiple glasses specific to whiskey, scotch, bourbon, and unspecified spirits. I don’t really recommend going through all 40 million plus google hits. I looked at quite a few and I think it’s safe to pare the multitudes down to the following classifications:
• Rocks/Old Fashioned glasses
• Shot glasses
• Snifters
• Cordial glasses
• Nosing glasses
• Designated “whiskey” glasses
Of course if you roll like Tommy Gavin out of Rescue Me then you might drink your 8 fingers of Midleton’s Very Rare out of a Collins or highball glass but we’ll assume you have a little more restraint than that. So with this dizzying array of options how do you know what you should be using? Let’s talk about each in turn. (Note: Each of these glasses can be found in a multitude of designs but the depictions below should reflect a “typical” representation.)

Rocks Glasses

Rocks glasses and Old Fashioned glasses are the quintessential classic whiskey glass. They are typically in the 4 to 8 ounces range with solid bases and straight or slightly sloping sides. Think of the glass you’d be drinking your scotch out of as an extra on the set of Mad Men. The benefits are that this is a solid and hefty glass; easy to find; works with cocktails, on the rocks, or whiskey straight.

Shot Glasses

Anyone’s who ever imbibed in spirits of any kind could probably draw a picture of a shot glass. These range in so many different varieties that I almost couldn’t say what’s typical anymore. However, they tend to be in the 1 to 2 ounce range and are pretty solidly made. These are cheap to buy, don’t break easily, and compact enough to store anywhere. This glass lends itself more to the frat boy pounding type of whiskey consumption.

Cordial Glasses

Cordial glasses can come in almost as many varieties as shot glasses. They even kind of look like shot glasses on the end of stems. They almost always have a stem and also are typically in the 1 to 2 ounces range. The stem prevents heat transfer from the hand to the whiskey, preventing flavor alteration. Some varieties have a slightly tulip shaped top allowing for better nosing by concentrating the aromas. Think of drinking your whiskey with Grandmother on the terrace of the family estate.

Snifters

Snifters are another type that most people have at least seen if not used. Originally designed for brandies, these glasses have a wide base, inward curving body, and a slight stem with a wide foot. Snifters can be relatively small or quite large in excess of 20 ounces. These glasses are intended to be held in the palm with the stem between the fingers. Resting the body of the glass in the palms allow for the slow warming of the spirit. Some folks like this aspect and others don’t. Also, like the cordial glasses the aromas are concentrated toward the opening by the shape. You might sport this glassware while sipping slowly in a leather lounge chair in a wood paneled study.

Nosing Glasses

Nosing glasses are growing in popularity with growth of fine spirits. Originally, these glasses were used mainly by spirit producers and blenders to nose their creations. Hence the name “nosing” glass. In many ways these glasses resemble a champagne flute with an opening designed to concentrate aromas. These glasses can be quite delicate so be care with use, cleaning, and storage. Some varieties even come with a little glass came to aroma from escaping between sips. Think of nosing whiskeys with Richard Paterson at a Whyte & Mackay laboratory.

Designated Whiskey Glasses

Relatively new on the scene are a number designated whiskey glasses. Riedel offers version specific for scotch and bourbon while other companies offer many others. No glass has seen as much rapid growth in popularity as the Glencairn Whisky Glass (pictured below) which recently hit 7 million in total sales. I’m not going to say one designated whiskey glass is better than another. They all vary and they do so for specific reasons. Each glass has its own story. If any of these glasses interest you then I recommend checking out those stories to see why they are made the way they are. You might see one of these in your goody bag at the next WhiskyFest New York.

So with all these different variations available where does that leave us in figuring what we should use? Personally, I don’t really think it matters. All that matter is that you enjoy what you’re drinking. If there is a certain aspect of one of these types of glasses that appeals to your enjoyment of a fine drink then you might want to explore that offering. If aroma and enhanced flavor is your game then maybe a snifter, nosing glass, or designated whiskey glass might be a good option. If you want a sturdy glass with which to knock back your everyday dram then you might be a rocks or shot glass kind of person. You might even want to do a little trial and error to find what’s right for you. Don’t put so much credence in what glass others tells you to use.
At a recent meeting of the Georgia Bourbon Society I was discussing glass merits with a couple of the society founders. The general consensus of these men who are well learned in the ways of fine drink was that over time they’ve gravitated toward glasses that fit well in the hand. It’s more about comfort for them rather than appropriateness. I tend to agree. So what kind of glass do I use? Admittedly it depends on whether I’m reviewing a whiskey or simply drinking it. Regardless, it shouldn’t matter to you what I use. Use whatever you like best.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

* For those readers outside of the U.S. or those just not familiar with the expressions it goes like this: “Opinions are like assholes, everyone’s got one.”

Through the Drinking Glass Read More »

Highland Park 18 Year

Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Aged 18 Years
43% ABV/86 Proof
$80 to $100
Widely available

What the Distillery Says:
First released in 1997, Highland Park immediately found favour with whisky writers and enthusiasts all over the world. It is a perfectly balanced single malt with a toffee sweetness and a mouthwateringly smokey finish.

Tasting Notes

Appearance:Natural colour; burnished gold, clear and bright
Nose:Rich, mature oak; top note of aromatic smoke
Palate:Rich, full flavour; honey and peat
Finish:Soft, round and long

The nose of Highland Park 18 Year Old displays characteristic toffee sweetness and an almond nuttiness reminiscent of marzipan. The finish is a prolonged, full, smokey aftertaste.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Dark fruit, sherry, polished oak, heather, buttery sweetness.
Palate: Smokey, rich, kind of oily, sweet and salty playing together, a little nutty.
Finish: Warm, peaty, a little spicy, and hotter than I expected.
Comments: A true classic. This is an amazingly complex whisky. It changes every time I try another dram. To me, this is the best sub-$100 18 Year Old single malt available. I almost don’t want to say that you must buy it because I don’t want to run low.
Rating: Must Buy

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Highland Park 16 Year

Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey Aged 16 Years
40% ABV/80 Proof
$100
Collectible (Previously Travel Retail Exclusive)

What the Distillery Says:
This variant of Highland Park was created exclusively for global travel retail and duty free markets and was first released in October 2005, it was withdrawn in April 2010. Highland Park 16 Year Old is gloriously smooth, sweet single malt with an island-infused flavour and a rich smokey finish.

Tasting Notes

Appearance:Natural colour, clear and bright
Nose:Sherried smoke peat, spicy
Palate:Rich, full flavour, smokey heather honey
Finish:Rich, long medium sweet then medium dry

Highland Park 16 Year Old has an emphatic honeyed sweetness on the nose with notes of citrus fruits and sea spray. On the palate this whisky tingles the front of the tongue then immediately makes the mouth water, leaving a rich smokey sensation.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Much more earthy and sherried than the 1994. Citrus and vanilla.
Palate: Not nearly as sweet as the 1994. Smokey and herbal/vegetal come to mind. A little bitter.
Finish: Dry. Again very little in common with the 1994.
Comments: This fella was discontinued in 2010 and replaced by the 1994 vintage as part of the duty free/travel retail range. I personally think it’s a very big improvement. There’s nothing about this that makes me want to drop the $100+ to scrounge up a bottle.
Rating: Average

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