I just got back from brunch with Dr. Bill Lumsden, Master Distiller of Glenmorangie and Arbeg, at the Brandy Library. The food was great, the whisky was better and a great time was had by all. Dr. Bill promised to bore us to death and then give us great whisky. I told him that talk of whisky was never boring. “You’ve never heard me talk before,” says he. Needless to say, I was not bored.
One of the things I learned today: Glemorangie has the tallest pot still in Scotland (16′-10 1/4″). Dr. Bill also took us through the long journey that the Astar barrels take before holding Glenmorangie (ask me about it or ask Dr. Bill, it’s a long journey). And we learned how to “release the serpent” in whisky (add water).
The whiskies on the menu were Glenmorangie Original, Astar, Lasanta, Sonnalta PX, Ardbeg Supernova and Corryvrecken. I was also allowed to sample some Glenmorangie new make spirit. Smelling and tasting of banana peels, coconut and rum, the new make would make a great cocktail mixer. Too bad it’s not for sale.
We’ve reviewed both the Original and the Astar (Dr. Bill’s favorite) quite recently, so I won’t rehash those. Notice there are no age statements…
Glenmorangie Lasanta
46% ABV, 92 Proof, Non-Chill Filtered
Nose: Sherry, cinnamon, ginger, raisins, toffee
Palate: Oily, sticky, sweet, spicy, hazelnut, blood orange
Finish: Oily, long, spiced orange and dark fruits
Comments: Lasanta is finished in Dry Oloroso Sherry casks for two years. Otherwise, it is basically the same whisky as the Original. I like what they are trying to do here. Dr. Bill is one of the engineers of the extra-maturation movement afterall(remember all those old Glenmorangies?). You still get some of the Glenmorangie character, but with an extra zing. I like it, but I like the Original better.
Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX
46% ABV, 92 Proof, Non-Chill Filtered
Nose: Everything you find in the Lasanta but bolder, dark chocolate, berries
Palate: Again, like Lasanta on steroids. Bold, rich sherry flavors with black pepper, tobacco and spice.
Finish: Long and oily, but sharp
Comments: Similar to the Lasanta, but using Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks. The extra richness of the PX really comes out in the whisky. This is a great addition to the extra-matured world. Plus, although this whisky is currently only available at Travel Retail, they will be releasing the Sonnalta PX domestically (in the US) soon due to popular demand. Whose says the consumer has no control in the whisky world? (It’s not like Glenmorangie is a Diageo company!)*
Glenmorangie Signet
46% ABV, 92 Proof, Non-Chill Filtered
Nose: Sherry, chocolate, dark berries, coffee, pecan pie,
Palate: Rich, chocolate, oak, spice, blood orange, vanilla, crème brulee, coffee, leather
Finish: Velvety
Comments: I knew that Glenmorangie was using ‘chocolate’ malt in the distilling process for the Signet. What I did not realize was that the malting process for ‘chocolate’ malt more closely resembles tumble-roasting (like coffee) than traditional floor malting (hand or machine turning on the malting floor). This is a wicked dram with one of the most complex recipes I’ve ever heard for a single malt. Just to give you an idea, the Signet contains whisky from ‘chocolate’ malt, first and second fill bourbon cask whiskies (using the special oak of the Astar barrels), sherried whiskies, virgin oak whiskies, and whiskies of various ages (some over 30 years old). There is no other whisky like this on the market. It goes really well with dark chocolate and cigars, but you could drink it neat with no food and still be happy.
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
57.1% ABV, 114.2 Proof, Non-Chill Filtered
Nose: PEAT. I don’t get a lot of anything else. It’s peat smoke and a lot of it.
Palate: Sweet, rich, spice, tar, nutty, medicinal, creamy, smoky, fresh shellfish and hot black top asphalt. Incredibly complex.
Finish: Long, earthy and creamy
Comment: This will replace the Airigh Nam Beist, which is being discontinued despite being Dr. Bill’s personal favorite among the Ardbeg range. I can’t say that I mind. This is my very favorite Ardbeg to date. Love it.
Ardbeg Supernova
58.9% ABV, 117.8 Proof, Non-Chill Filtered
Nose: The high proof puts the alcohol at the forefront of the nose. The peat is surprisingly coy. Sweet, lime juice and band-aids
Palate: Whoa! Like chewing on a lump of peat covered in dark chocolate and burnt sugar. Smoke, spice, lime and band-aids
Finish: I could still taste the peat, chocolate and sweetness after an hour on the subway. So, yeah, “long finish.”
Comments: The “lime juice and band-aids” comment comes directly from Dr. Bill Lumsden, but he is right on with the description. I’m not sure that is the best way to sell people on your whisky though. For being Ardbeg’s peatiest whisky and one of the peatiest on the market, the Supernova is surprisingly approachable. I like it, but give me more of that Corryvreckan.
Thanks to the Dr. Bill Lumsden, David Blackmore of Moet Hennessy and Ethan Kelly of Brandy Library for putting this together. I always love a chance to meet a Master Distiller. It only sweetens the deal that it was Dr. Bill (Glenmorangie is my ‘go-to’ whisky).
*The Glenmorangie and Arbeg are owned by LVMH.
Drink well, drink responsibly.
-Matt
