Review

Compass Box Spice Tree

Compass Box Spice Tree Blended Malt Scotch Whisky
46% ABV
$55 to $65
Website
SpiceTree-Box-Bottle
What the Blender Says:
Our storied malt whisky The Spice Tree is made from Highland malt whiskies which we age in custom-made casks fitted with new French oak heads. We source this oak from a mill in the Vosges which produces some of the highest quality cooperage oak for winemakers. The result is a big malt whisky of richness and spice-like complexity.

The Second Coming.
First launched in 2005, we were forced to discontinue production under a legal threat by the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) for our pioneering use of the highest quality French oak inner staves. This, despite rave reviews from consumers, trade and press. We agreed to disagree with the SWA and halted production (for the full story, see www.compassboxwhisky.com). Over the following three years we developed a new maturation process which yielded similar if not superior results to our previous method, and this new process is something the SWA can’t take any issue with. The Spice Tree was then relaunched in September 2009.

The Whisky & The Method.
As in the past, The Spice Tree is made from 100% malt whisky sourced from northern Highland distilleries, (notably and primarily malt whisky distilled in the village of Brora). The primary maturation is in a mix of first-fill and refill American oak.

What is different is the secondary maturation. Rather than using inner stave inserts, as we did for the original Spice Tree, we rack the whisky into barrels with heavily toasted new French oak heads. We have created a method for getting a super heavy toast on the cask heads which imparts a flavour profile similar to the flat staves used for the original Spice Tree. We use oak with three different levels of toasting on the barrel heads, thus allowing us to blend the resultant whiskies to create additional layers of complexity. This secondary maturation lasts as long as two years.

The Spice Tree is a very rich whisky, suitable for after-dinner sipping, as an accompaniment to certain cheeses and, especially, in cocktails.

Flavour Descriptors
Big, sweet aromas of clove, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. The palate is full, round and sweet, with the spice and vanilla complementing the core distillery characters and leaving a long finish.

Distillery Sourcing
Made entirely of Highland single malt whiskies from the villages of Brora – 60% (fruitiness), Carron – 20% (meatiness) and Alness – 20% (perfume).

Wood
Primary maturation: first-fill and refill American oak. 20%
Secondary maturation: custom barrels with heavily toasted new French oak heads sourced from 195 year-old Vosges forests. 80%

Bottling Details
Bottled at 46%. Natural colour. Not chill filtered.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Meaty with what reminds me of hard candies in exotic fruit flavors. Honeysuckle and orange blossoms are there if you wait a while for them to unfold.
Palate: Rich, creamy, and mouth coating followed by a swift kick in the teeth! Orange marmalade, toffee, and pumpkin pie spice.
Finish: Dry, spicy (as you’d expect!), leathery, and drawn out. Woody but not overly so.
Comments: What I like most about this is the exercise in understanding wood influence between this and Oak Cross. You’ll notice a blend that is all but identical except for the proof and wood. For me this dram is an intellectual exercise. It’s a great dram, don’t get me wrong but not my favorite of the Compass Box line. I think it also plays a little second fiddle to Oak Cross. Not that it does anyone any good but I also like the original version better.
Rating: Stands Out

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Compass Box Oak Cross

Compass Box Oak Cross Blended Malt Scotch Whisky
43% ABV
$55 to $60
Website
OakCross-Box-Bottle
What the Blender Says:
We call this whisky Oak Cross because it offers the best characteristics of both American and French oak aging. A rich, medium-bodied blended malt Scotch whisky, Oak Cross combines vanilla characters from American oak and spicy, clove-like characters from French oak.

Innovative New Oak Casks
We work with a small mill in France that produces some of the highest quality cooperage oak in the world. It was our work with this mill that led us to experimenting with secondary maturation of malt whiskies in casks fitted with new French oak heads. This is something no one else in Scotland does. The result is whisky with more character and complexity. We use this technique on about 40% of the whisky in Oak Cross and it results in a superior finished product.

Flavour Descriptors
On the palate, notes of clove and vanilla accent a sweet maltiness and subtle fruit character.

Recommendations
Suitable as an aperitif served with a chilled water in the winter months. Full enough to serve as a summertime digestif. Excellent match for many cheeses.

Distillery Sourcing
Made entirely of Highland single malt whiskies from the villages of Brora – 60% (fruitiness), Carron – 20% (meatiness) and Alness – 20% (perfume).

Wood
All the whiskies are aged for their primary maturation in a mix of American oak cask types. The marrying casks are a mix of first-fill Bourbon barrels (60%) and our proprietary “Oak Cross” casks made of American and new French oaks (40%).

Bottling Details
Bottled at 43%. Natural colour. Not chill filtered.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Heather, grape jam covered toast, and a back note that’s a little meaty.
Palate: Surprisingly sweet. Peaches and cream, raw cane juice, and candied pineapple.
Finish: Woody and dry like an over handled California Chardonnay and then a big whump of spicy pepper and wood that lingers a while ultimately turning almost minty.
Comments: I’m a bit perplexed. I remember this always being my least favorite of the core Compass Box range but tasting it again after several years I don’t know why I felt that way. This is delicious.
Rating: Must Try

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Compass Box Asyla

Compass Box Asyla Blended Scotch Whisky
40% ABV
$50
Website
asyla_bottle_box-sm
What the Blender Says:
The ultimate “everyday,” “before dinner” or “Sunday afternoon” Scotch whisky. With just a splash of chilled water, this blend of soft, sweet grain whiskies and elegant, refined malt whiskies epitomises “deliciousness” in the world of Scotch whisky.

The Secret is in the Oak
The secret to making Asyla is the quality of the casks. We use only whiskies aged in first-fill American oak casks because these yield whiskies with more vanilla character, more richness and more sweetness than refill casks. Asyla is made with 50% malt whisky. There are few blended Scotches that use as high a malt content as we do at Compass Box. The result is a carefully crafted, elegant blended Scotch whisky that makes the perfect aperitif.

Flavour Descriptors
Sweet, delicate and very smooth on the palate, with flavours of vanilla-cream, cereals and a subtle applelike fruit character.

Recommendations
Ideal as an aperitif served in a white wine or similar glass with chilled water to taste. Try before a meal with shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano.

Distillery Sourcing
Single malts from the towns of Alness and Longmorn; single grain whisky from Fife.

Composition
A. 50% Lowland (East) Single Grain Fruitiness
B. 40% Highland Single Malt Perfumed
C. 10% Speyside Single Malt Fruitiness

Wood
100% first-fill American oak ex-Bourbon. Vanilla

Bottling Details
Bottled at 40%. Not chill filtered. Natural colour.

What Richard Says:
Nose: The nose is light and delicate with wisps of heather, honeysuckle, and turned apples. It reminds me of some of the mid-20th century perfumes and lotions my grandmother used.
Palate: The mouth feel is lovely, creamy and inviting. Creme brulee and fresh hay.
Finish: This whisky leaves like a long slow goodnight kiss after a date. Soft at first and then pushes in a little harder with wood, pepper, and alcohol before slowly pushing away.
Comments: Gosh, I think I have a crush on this pretty lady. This is a lovely and delicate whisky. It is easy to approach and even easier to enjoy. One word of caution though, to the peat freaks and those always looking to push the limits of robust flavor, this is probably not the dram for you.
Rating: Must Try

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Compass Box Great King Street Artist’s Blend

Compass Box Great King Street: The Artist’s Blend Blended Scotch Whisky
43% ABV
$40-$45
Website
great_king_street_artists_blend
What the Blender Says:
Great King Street is a new line of craft Scotch whiskies created by the Compass Box Whisky Company for people who love great whisky.

In a world where malt whiskies get all the attention, people often overlook the pleasures of good Blended Scotch. This is the style of Scotch whisky that combines flavourful single malt whiskies with delicate, elegant single grain whiskies. We believe it is time for the world to take a fresh look at this style, and that is why we have created Great King Street.

There are good reasons why the blending of grain and malt whisky has been the mainstay of the Scotch business for well over 150 years. Well-made Blended Scotch whiskies have an elegance and approachability that make them a joy to drink. They are far more versatile than other styles of whisky, equally enjoyable drunk on their own or with ice, soda water, or in cocktails.

Due to the preponderance of poorly made, inexpensive Blended Scotch whiskies on the market, many people assume any bottle of Scotch bearing the term ‘blended’ is somehow inferior. Not if you make it the way we do. With Great King Street we hope to enlighten people to the joys of a well-made Blended Scotch because they open up so many new opportunities to enjoy great whisky.

We believe in transparency. These days, more and more people are interested to know what is in their whisky. Here is a breakdown of the whisky components of Artist’s Blend.

WHISKY (Spirit Character)
A Lowland Grain Whisky (fruity/perfumed) 46%
B Northern Highland Single Malt (malty/fruity) 28%
C Northern Highland Single Malt (grassy/perfumed) 17%
D Speyside Single Malt (meaty) 9%

Here is a breakdown of the wood components of Artist’s Blend.
WOOD (Flavour Impact)
1 First Fill American Oak Barrel (vanilla) 66%
2 New French Oak Finish {New-Headed Barrel} 26%
(Grilled Marshmallow, toastiness, roasted coffee)
3 First Fill Sherry Butt (wine, dried fruits) 8%

What Richard Says:
Nose: As soon as you open the bottle vanilla sugar starts to waft out. Behind the sweetness it is very light, herbal, and delicate with minor sherry notes. After it ssites in the glass a bit an odd mustiness sets in so let it sit too long. 😉
Palate: Finish: The whisky oozes vanilla, floral sweetness, and a creamy buttery mouth feel. Again, as it sits and aerates it changes a bit and a little wood bite kicks in.
Finish: This lingers with long, slow oak, aged tobacco, and tannic bitterness.
Comments: Are you looking for a new blend to tray and deep stocked in your bar? Look no further. This is a delicious and very approachable dram. John Glaser’s desire to create an everyday blend succeeds with flying colors.
Rating: Stands Out

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Bushmills 16 Year

Bushmills 16 Year
Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Matured in Three Woods

40% ABV
$80-$85
Website
bushmills
What the Distiller Says:
“Well‚ it takes a special dedication to create the Bushmills 16 year-old‚ that and lots of patience. Two whiskies are matured for 16 years‚ one in a bourbon barrel and the other in sherry‚ and then they are married together in a sweet port infused cask. It’s a marriage made in heaven!”
– Master Distiller Colum Egan

NOSE: Aromatic nose with hints of almonds and a nutty sweetness
TASTE: A warm port sweetness on the back of the throat that drifts up to form an almond‚ marzipan fusion with hints of Honey beehoney and praline
FINISH: Deep‚ jammy and dark chocolate.

Recommended Serving:
45mls Bushmills 16 Year-Old. (1.5 oz)
1 Whiskey Glass
A drop of water

What Richard Says:

Nose: It starts out abrupt and a little meaty. From there it is grainy with a heavy focus toward cereal grains. The wood interplay is interesting. It get a heave sherry background that is trying to fight through the port. I’m undecided if it works or not.
Palate: The flavor is clean, mellow, and inoffensive. Rolling it around I get crisp apples, toasted pine nuts, an a cereal back. The flavors aren’t particularly bold but this is ridiculously drinkable.
Finish: It comes on delicate and slow but rather elegant. There is almost no finish at first but the port wood slowly creeps in and guides you out.
Comments: Nose….meh. Everything else….great! This would be a “drinker’s dram” in my book. By that I mean that it is not for those that want to spend the evening with their noses in their glasses waxing poetic. Rather, it is a great dram if yo uwna tto sit with some friends and just enjoy some good whiskey. I also feel compelled to own up to something. This is a dram I had to spend a lot of time with. It is really a mood dram for me. If I’m in the mood I love it and review accordingly. If I force then I don’t respond as well. What you see above is the combination of those two experiences.

Rating: Stands Out

What Gary Says

Nose:  Soft, fruity and floral with with subtle dark fruits, honey, and hint of the port pipe.
Palate:  Sweet, with soft fruit notes, honey, raisins, almonds, praline, bit of chocolate and a slight pepper spice.
Finish:  Moderately long, slightly drying with honeyed fruit and milk chocolate.
Comments:  This is a significant step up from the 10 year. I agree with Richard that this is ridiculously drinkable – although I’ll bet this would be a LOT better at a higher ABV. Still pretty solid in terms of flavor density. When Richard reviewed this in 2014, it was $80 – $85. In 2020 here in Atlanta, this is over $120. It is still a solid single malt – but overpriced in my book.

Rating: Stands Out

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