Bourbon

Larceny

John E. Fitzgerald Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Very Special Small Batch

46% ABV
$19.99
Website
Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

What the Distillery Says:
Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc., the country’s largest independent family-owned and operated spirits producer and marketer, announces the initial launch of Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey into 12 markets in September 2012. A super-premium 92 proof Bourbon, Larceny is the heir to the wheated Bourbons that make up the historic Old Fitzgerald franchise that Heaven Hill acquired in 1999. In fact, it is the somewhat controversial history of John E. Fitzgerald and his eponymous Bourbon brand that provides the story, and name, to Larceny Bourbon, the latest new label from the venerated distillery that produces Evan Williams and Elijah Craig Bourbons and Rittenhouse Rye.
Larceny Bourbon continues the Old Fitzgerald tradition of using wheat in place of rye as the third or “small” grain in the whiskey’s grain recipe, or mashbill as it is commonly known. The use of winter wheat replaces the spicier, fruitier flavor notes that rye provides with a softer, rounder character that is the hallmark of Old Fitzgerald and other “wheated” Bourbons such as Maker’s Mark and the Van Winkle line.

It is actually the story of the Old Fitzgerald brand, made famous by the late Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle Sr., that forms the historical basis for Larceny Bourbon. According to industry lore, John E. Fitzgerald had founded his distillery in Frankfort , KY shortly after the Civil War ended, making his Bourbon available only to steamship lines, rail lines and private clubs. This story was furthered by S.C Herbst, who owned the “Old Fitz” brand from the 1880’s through Prohibition, and “Pappy” Van Winkle, who purchased the brand during Prohibition and made it his signature label. However, it was revealed by Pappy’s granddaughter, Sally Van Winkle Campbell, in her 1999 book But Always Fine Bourbon—Pappy Van Winkle and the Story of Old Fitzgerald, that in fact John E. Fitzgerald was not a famous distiller at all. He was in reality a treasury agent who used his keys to the warehouses to pilfer Bourbon from the finest barrels. His discerning palate led those barrels to which he chose to help himself being referred to as “Fitzgerald barrels”.

Now Heaven Hill has launched Larceny, whose tagline—“A taste made famous by an infamous act”—sets history straight.

Tasting Notes:
Aroma: Fresh bread and toffee, with a note of butterscotch
Taste: Buttery caramel and honeyed notes, with a rich mouthfeel
Finish: Long, gently sweet and savory

What Richard Says:
Nose: Cherries…lots of cherries and vanilla. Cherry Vanilla Dr. Pepper? Maybe. The is also a little lavender dancing in the back with scalded milk.
Palate: Not nearly as sweet as the nose would lead you to believe. Vanilla, a nice oak char, rich, and slightly savory. Well balanced as a good wheater should be.
Finish: Butterscotch and dry oak with hints of tobacco and oiled leather.
Comments: Definitely the Heaven Hill wheater DNA from the 2010 Parker’s Heritage release. If I had to put Larceny up against Buffalo Trace’s Weller Special Reserve and Maker’s I’d pick this one every time. I may have just found my new sub $25 wheater.
Rating: Must Try, Great Value

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Weller 12 Year

W.L. Weller Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 12 Years
45% ABV/90 Proof
$23 to $25
WebsiteWeller 12 Yr
What the Distillery Says:
[Quoted from Paul Pacult, The Spirit Journal on their website]
The deep bronze color beautifully reflects the light — perfect purity; the initial nosing pass finds fully nature aromas of lanolin, almond oil, and creamed corn — in the middle stage sniffings, following several minutes of air contact, a toasty oaky/vanilla perfume takes the aromatic helm — the fourth and last whiff highlights the oily grainy quality that’s firm and pungent — a high-spirited, lusciously toasty, and animated bouquet that has top-notch Bourbon written all over it; the dry, complex, and toasty palate entry is reminiscent of the Centennial 10 Year Old’s grand entry — the mid-palate flavor profile is heavily wheated (like Wheat Thins crackers), oily, layer, moderately sweet, and sap-like; the finish is long, sweet, oaky, and intensely grainy; follows in the footprints of the legendary Centennial and delivers the goods, all for an unbelievable price.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Spiced apples, caramel, buttery vanilla, and oak. Behind all that are slight floral notes of lavender and rose.
Palate: A light sweetness that turns tart, dry, and woody then something that reminds me of canned cherry pie filling.
Finish: Hot with black peppercorns, polished oak, and barrel char.
Comments: Being of the same stock as Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year Old and Van Winkle Lot B it surprises me how different they are. Barrel selection really is something. Still, this is one of the last great value age statement bourbons in what seems to be a growing population of no age statement converts.
Rating: Stands Out, Great Value

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Four Roses 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel

Four Roses Single Barrel Limited Edition 2012 Release
Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Warehouse SN, Barrel No. 81-2B, 12 Year Old OESK, 717 of 5178
52.5% ABV/105 Proof
$75 to $85
Website

What the Distillery Says:
For the 2012 Four Roses Single Barrel Limited Edition Release, we have once again hand-selected an uncut and non-chill filtered Barrel Strength masterpiece. This sophisticated, highly-nuanced 12-year old whiskey features a delicate smokey oak nose, creamy vanilla and caramel flavors, along with a smooth, long finish. Proof will range between 100.6-114.4.

Tasting Notes
Nose: Delicate smokey oak, ripe red cherries, nutmeg and hints of toasted almonds.
Palate: Caramel and vanilla, rich honey, cinnamon and brown sugar.
Finish: Smooth and long with soft undertones of toasted almonds.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Out of the bottle it’s classic Four Roses. Burnt caramel, honeysuckle, butter cookies, and rye spice. Water opens up woody notes and hints of licorice. There is also some mixture of aged tobacco and cedar that reminds me of a walk in humidor.
Palate: Brown sugar and rye spice. This bottle has a tenuous relationship with water. A little mellows it out and makes it really drinkable but it’s easy to put too much. At that point it’s like drinking Yellow Label.
Finish: It’s 52.5% ABV out of the bottle so it’s a little hot. With water it mellows nicely to oak, black pepper, and a little more licorice.
Comments: I wasn’t bowled over by last year’s release. I found it underwhelming and overshadowed by the small batch limited edition. This year’s OESK 12 Year Old really shines. I first got to try this at a lunch with Jim Rutledge several months ago and instantly knew they had something. A lovely expression of one of my favorite Four Roses recipes.
Rating: Must Try

I would like to thank The Baddish Group for sending me a bottle to review.

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Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 20 Years
Fall 2011 Release
45.2% ABV/90.4 Proof
$100 to $130
Website

What the Distillery Says:
They really don’t say much. Like most Buffalo Trace whiskeys they refer to review PR.

This is the #1 rated Bourbon Whiskey in the world—Rated 99 out of 100 by the World Spirits Championship. This bourbon is aged 20 years and bottled at 90.4 proof. This whiskey is wonderfully smooth and rich. No other bourbon today can stand 20 years of aging, but this bourbon does it with style. “Pappy” Van Winkle was a true character. This bourbon, like “Pappy”, is full of character that makes it a very special whiskey. It has been put in the class of a fine after dinner cognac.

What Richard Says:
Nose: On the 20 year old I get a lot of nutty and leathery notes. It also shows some of the dark fruit I found on the ORVW 10/90 but missed in the 15 year old. The nose finishes out with something at reminds me of a mix of cloves and Aunt Jemima syrup.
Palate: Creamy and viscous in the mouth with lots of cinnamon and dark chocolate. Then there is a smack of vanilla so big it’s like taking a little hit of vanilla extract.
Finish: The finish is surprisingly less oak than the finish of the 10 and 15 year olds. This one is a very refined older southern gentleman.
Comments: I miss being able to find this for $85 a bottle. Now you regularly see it for $125 to $130. Despite my previous rantings on the Van Winkle hype machine this is still a great bourbon and I’d happily pay $130 for it. Buy it if you can find it.
Rating: Must Buy

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Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 15 Years Old
Fall 2011 Release
53.5% ABV/107 Proof
$80
Website

What the Distillery Says:
They really don’t say much. Like most Buffalo Trace whiskeys they refer to review PR.

A younger version of our famous 20-year-old Pappy Van Winkle’ Family Reserve, this bourbon was crafted according to our exclusive family wheated recipe. The smooth, oak flavor blends well with the barrel proof. Selected from barrels in the heart of our Kentucky warehouse, it has remained untouched for 15 years and unhurried by time. “A whiskey connoisseur’s bonanza,…remarkable find…ranks with the best whiskeys,” Paul Pacult’s Spirit Journal.

What Richard Says:
Nose: For such a lovely bourbon the nose on this is surprisingly coy. It’s got a mellow cleanness to it out of the bottle. Bring in the water and out rolls the toffee, nutmeg, and vanilla custard.
Palate: Dear God that’s rich! Caramel drizzled vanilla custard with lots of cinnamon and a little dark chocolate.
Finish: The finish is like a warm bourbon blanket wrapping you up. The oak and spice are there but they play a supporting role to everything that came before.
Comments: The contrarian in me wants to hate this because of all the bullshit hype Van Winkle bourbons have surrounded themselves with the last few years. There are no more over hyped bourbon products on the market by a wide margin. If you don’t “know somebody” or don’t camp out like groupies looking for tickets to see Bon Jovi on the Slippery When Wet Tour then you ain’t getting any of this. And the incessant bourbon geek flame wars over which distillery is which bottling from are enough to make me want to hate this stuff without all the hype. (BTW, many thanks to Chuck Cowdery and John Hansell for finally putting THAT to rest) There just one problem with my personal vendetta against this stuff…it’s so freaking GOOD! Despite all the ridiculous fervor and all the pseudo bourbon intellectual poser assholes talking it up on the stool next to you this stuff is really good. I don’t know why the Weller recipe ages so well but it does. The 15, 20, and 23 are all great. This is the only one you can still get for under $100 although I still wish it was $50 a bottle like it was when I started drinking it. If you have the means and opportunity don’t pass this one up.
Rating: Must Buy

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