Bourbon

Distillery Tour: Jim Beam

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Jim Beam is about as ubiquitous to bourbon as you can get. As the number one selling bourbon in the world (we won’t get into the whole Jack Daniel’s thing today) you can find it in the far reaching corners of the world. Even though you can find it almost anywhere, you might want to consider visiting where it’s made. Well, it’s actually made at two distilleries…one in Clermont, Kentucky and another in Boston, Kentucky but only the Clermont location is open for tours. This past April I made the trek to Clermont with some Georgia Bourbon Society pals to see what it was all about.

I’ve been to Jim Beam once before a number of years ago and the video and gift shop they had then was a distant and sad memory from what they have now. It’s referred to as the American Stillhouse and it is a great new facility. To get there you can either take I-65 north to Kentucky highway 245 south to Happy Hollow Road or from Bardstown, Kentucky take 245 north to Happy Hollow Road. Ten years ago when I was last there you could walk up, get in line, see the video, have a sip of bourbon and be on your way in about 30 minutes. Now, I would recommend booking a reservation in advance. There are two tours available at the moment. We took the standard Guided Tour which is $10 and that does not go towards any purchases in the gift shop. It’s about 75 minutes. There is also the VIP Super Premium Tour with Fred Noe for a modest $199 and that one lasts about six hours.

Once your tour begins you load up outside of the gift shop in a branded bus and head up to the distillery. The tour starts by walking you through the distilling process in the miniature experimental distillery they have set up in a smaller complex next to the main distillery. It’s been around for about two years. The tour guides are well spoken and surprisingly knowledgeable. They walk you through the history and legal designations of bourbon and what is required to make it while in the old water sourcing warehouse.

From there you head to the miniature cooker, fermentation tanks, and still to talk through grains, mashbills, and yeast. The standard mashbill for Jim beam, Old Crow, Knob Creek, Baker’s, and Booker’s is 76% corn, 13% rye and 10% barley. Their higher rye mashbill used for Old Grand Dad and Basil Hayden is 63% corn, 27% rye, and 10% barley. During the discussion of yeast our guide confirmed (multiple times) that they are now using the same yeast for all their whiskeys. In 1987 when National Distillers Group sold their spirits business to Fortune Brands Beam brought over the yeast National Distillers was using for the Old Grand Dad brand and mashbill. At what time that was converted to the standard Beam yeast strain for Old Grand Dad products has not been confirmed. I guess that kind of makes it “New” Grand Dad. 😉

In discussion of distillation it was also confirmed that the Boston plan makes exclusively product destined for Jim Beam White and the flavored Beam products. Everything else comes from the Clermont distillery along with the balance of the Jim Beam White destined distillate. For nearly all the Beam products the low wine comes off the still at 125 proof/62.5% ABV and off the second distillation at 135 proof/67.5% ABV for the high wines. From there it gets watered down to the legally required 125 proof for barreling. Booker’s is the exception. It is distilled at a higher temperature thus equaling a lower proof (more of the water evaporates with the alcohol at the higher temperature) and comes off the first distillation at 115 proof and the second distillation at 125 proof so that it can go straight into the barrel with no additional water.

Next they take you to the miniature filling station. A volunteer gets to fill a barrel surrounded by the barrel heads of all the commemorative barrels of bourbon made by Beam. After this it’s off to the full distillery.
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Down a walkway you head into the main still room. These babies are huge compared the little experimental stills you just saw. This is a high performance, high quality control operation. Through the mass of production noise you can see computer displays showing all the production metrics. It’s quite a sight but it’s so loud that you’re happy to soon head back out.
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The next area is for dumping. Knob Creek was on the dumping block when we came by. Everyone got a nice sniff and then we were ushered over to the bottling line. You now have the opportunity to hand bottle either a bottle of Knob Creek Single Barrel or Jim Beam White Single Barrel. The neat thing we found out is that the excess whiskey from the barrel (no barrel yields exact multiples of 750 mls) is used to wash these bottles so that there is no water or bourbon contaminating the Single Barrel bottles that didn’t come from that barrel.

The last stop in this area was the decanter room. It’s kind of neat to see all the different designs that have held Jim Beam over the years. Some of them are so ornate that you can barely imagine them actually holding bourbon.

Next we are off to the warehouse. Nothing to me smells as good as a whiskey warehouse. All that old whiskey slowly giving up shares to the angels makes for a delicious aroma. A few places where barrels are raised and dropped allow you the chance to look up vertically and see how many stories of whiskey are stacked in each warehouse. It’s impressive.
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After the warehouse you head to the tasting room. This is a cool set up. You get a pass card that is good for two pours from these drink machines that I’ve only seen at wine bars. You can choose your two pours from any of Beam’s regularly sold products (no Old Grand Dad, Old Overholt, or Old Crow). After your tastes you can head home or back to the gift shop.
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All manner of Jim Beam Brand paraphernalia can be had at the gift shop. If you’re looking for whiskey, they sell the range of Beam brands (again no Old Grand Dad, Old Overholt or Old Crow). If you want a gift shop exclusive you can get a bottle of Fred Noe’s select bourbon which is really just the seven year old white label. However, it’s got a different label and Fred selected it so that’s something. If you want to drop $200 you can get a Distiller’s Masterpiece is a sexy decanter finished in sherry casks.

I was really impressed with the new Beam complex and tour. It’s first rate in every way. If you’re in the area or even if you might consider making a designated trip then it’s worthwhile.

One last note on Beam: There is now “Fred’s Smokehouse” open on the grounds where you can get barbeque for lunch. It’s staffed by some older Kentucky ladies who are about as sweet as the chocolate bourbon pie. I feel comfortable saying that I am a lover of the “Que” and I appreciate all styles: Dry and wet, Kansas City and Texas, Carolina Mustard and Alabama White. However, I do NOT recommend the Smokehouse. The watery meat, stale buns, and mediocre sauce should be avoided. You can get a much better meal at any number of places down the road in Bardstown.

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William Larue Weller 2014

William Larue Weller Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey – 2014 Release
70.1% ABV
$85-90
Website
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What the Distillery Says:
Uncut and unfiltered, this hand-bottled bourbon is barrel proof. Weller substitutes wheat for the traditional rye grain, a production method pioneered by W.L. Weller.

TASTING NOTES:
Fragrant scents of caramel corn, new leather, plums, light toffee and pipe tobacco. The palate tastes of marshmallow, salted almonds, nougat, figs and dates. This whiskey finishes smooth, composed and flavorfully sweet.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Cocoa, toffee, steamed condensed milk (thinking of Cuban coffee), vanilla, hint of clove and honey; warm, dark and rich. For the proof, there isn’t as much alcohol burn as you might expect neat, but I recommend adding some water – which brings in new aromas of a comfortable leather chair (maybe in the waiting room of my favorite bakery?) The kind of whiskey I could nose for a long time – and love every minute of it.
Palate: Warm, chewy toffee sweetness; mincemeat pie with a dusting of hot chocolate instant powder (you know you’ve tried it without any water). Burnt toast and wood are balanced nicely with the sweetness.
Finish: Quite long, with a bit more spice and a bit of a bite at the end
Comments: I’ve always been a fan of this member of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, and this year is no exception. The proof is up there, so don’t be shy with the water. I like to nose it neat and take my first sip neat, adding water from there, but with proof like this you can burn your palate if you’re not careful – and I honestly find I enjoy it more with some water. The last several releases have been in the same age range, and while the proof has increased, Buffalo Trace picked the right barrels for the flavor profile. Fans of past William Larue Wellers shouldn’t be disappointed. And if they are, please let me know and I’ll try to help you dispose of the remainder of your bottle.
Rating: Must Buy

What Richard Says:
Nose: I really expected the nose on this to be rocket fuel out of the bottle but there is a lot of nice leather and caramel notes coming across even before you add water. Water opens up a big burst of cinnamon and honey drizzled over fresh baked cornbread.
Palate: Damn that’s rich! I didn’t even bother with a “before adding water sip” given the proof this is clocking in at. It’s really delicious. Dark fruit, toffee, and more cinnamon prevail.
Finish: A nice slow long woody spice with a dusting of cocoa powder. Very dry. Maybe a little too dry?
Comments: How the Pappy fanatics aren’t just as rabid about this I’ll never know. It is a standard bearer for barrel proof wheater bourbons. It’s absolutely delicious. My only complaint is that this year’s release seems a little too dry on the finish, but hey that just makes you want to drink more right? 🙂
Rating: Must Buy

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Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary

Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
45.5% ABV
$125
Website
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What the Distillery Says:
LAWRENCEBURG, KY (JULY 28, 2014) – Today, a living legend in the global spirits industry gets his due, as the whiskey brand he’s nurtured for an astonishing 60 years releases Wild Turkey® Diamond Anniversary, a commemorative Bourbon in his honor. Celebrating six decades of service with the famous Lawrenceburg, Kentucky distillery this year, Wild Turkey’s Jimmy Russell is now considered the longest-tenured, active Master Distiller in the world.

A man who has dedicated his life to preserving the centuries-old craft of whiskey making deserves a Bourbon befitting this unique milestone. Enter Eddie Russell, who’s been making whiskey by his father’s side for more than 30 years. With Jimmy and Eddie’s seal of approval, Wild Turkey is proud to release Diamond Anniversary, an exclusive, limited-edition mingling of 13- and 16-year-old whiskies that’s as special a Bourbon as Jimmy is a distiller.

Known among peers, Bourbon fans and aficionados as the “Buddha of Bourbon, the “Master Distiller’s Master Distiller” and the “Elder Statesman,” never before has such a product been created to honor a single individual who has so substantially contributed to the long success of a spirits brand. Jimmy has long been recognized as an innovator in the category and a steward of Bourbon history and craft, remaining staunchly committed to making Bourbon using traditional methods.

Since his first day on the job in 1954, Jimmy has seen man land on the moon, the walls of communism crumble, the invention of the Internet and more liquor fads come and go than he can count. He has raised a glass of Wild Turkey with countless thousands of people around the globe, created or co-created no less than 10 Bourbons, invented the first honey-flavored Bourbon, was inducted into the Bourbon Hall of Fame™, and received a formal acclamation in the Kentucky legislature thanking him for his life-long contributions to the Bourbon industry and Commonwealth of Kentucky. It’s been a long and exciting road for Jimmy Russell, but the journey isn’t over yet.

“After 60 years of making whiskey, I still love what I do and all the incredible people I’ve had the chance to meet,” said Jimmy. “I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, as soon as it feels like work I’ll retire. If it hasn’t happened after getting up and driving my Ford pickup over to the distillery about 20,000 times at this point, I don’t think it will be happening anytime soon.”

Eddie is a veteran at Wild Turkey as well, working there for 33 years. Together, the father and son duo – another rarity in the industry – have crafted several bourbons together. For Jimmy’s 60th anniversary, Eddie wanted to make something extra special for his beloved father and mentor. To create Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary, Eddie hand selected rare barrels that had been aging for 13 and 16 years (nearly twice as long as the flagship Wild Turkey 101) that yielded a spirit with tantalizing notes of caramel and vanilla, complete with a spicy oak finish. Fortuitously, these barrels were filled around the time Jimmy was celebrating his 45th anniversary, and Eddie was thinking about planning Jimmy’s retirement party.

“When I was creating Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary, my father’s voice was in my head guiding me. He taught me everything I know, so I wanted to craft something that reflected all of the invaluable knowledge he passed on to me; something that was worthy of one of the greatest Master Distillers of all time,” remarked Eddie.

Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary is exclusively offered at a suggested retail price of $124.99, and will be available nationally, but in small quantities starting in August 2014.

What Gary Says:
Nose: A cedar chest filled with old leather-bound booked, bit of orange zest, honey, wildflowers and a touch of vanilla and nutmeg. For its age, not as much wood as I would have expected.
Palate: Smooth mouthfeel that starts off sweet before slowly bringing in the rye spice you expect from Wild Turkey. Toasted caramel and honey, sour apple chips with cinnamon and nutmeg, rice pudding with some pepper near the end.
Finish: Moderately long finish, where the wood becomes more predominant but not overly so. A dry peppery note.
Comments: Like nearly every other review I’d read, I too wish this had been bottled at a higher proof personally. It isn’t the oak bomb that I anticipated based on it being a combination of 13yr and 16yr bourbon barrels. Unfortunately it comes off as less intense for me than standard Wild Turkey 101 bourbon. When I think “Wild Turkey”, I think of dense, rye spice – and unfortunately the 91 proof point leaves me wanting more from this pour (especially when considering the price point). For someone who prefers a more nuanced pour to study, this might fit the bill – but I would try to pick it up on sale if you can.
Rating: Stands Out

What Richard Says:
Nose: Vanilla, nut brittle, caramel, creme brulee, with hints of cherry blossom.
Palate: The flavor is a bit more muted than I would’ve expected with the nose. If you roll it around a bit it begins to open a little. Oranges, cinnamon, and a little mint standout.
Finish: There is a bit of hang time here. It’s a bit dry with a black peppercorn dominance. A bit of oak peaks around but not too much.
Comments: So someone clearly asked for an older more easy drinking Wild Turkey. It wasn’t me but I can appreciate what they are going for. I find it a little too tame for Turkey but it’s pleasant and very drinkable.
Rating: Stands Out

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Angel’s Envy Cask Strength 2014

Angel’s Envy Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Port Barrels
2014 Release

59.65% ABV
$169
Website
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What the Bottler Says:
Louisville Distilling Company is proud to announce the limited-edition release of the critically acclaimed Angel’s Envy Cask Strength. The Expression will be available this October in select markets including: CA, CO, FL, GA, IL, IN, KY, MA, MI, NJ, NY, OR, TN, TX, WA. Due to the scarcity of barrels necessary for the enhanced finishing process, Angel’s Envy will only release 6,500 bottles. Previous releases quickly sold out.

Named “best spirit in the world” by Paul Pacult in the June 2013 edition of Spirit Journal, Cask Strength shared top honors with a 25-year-old single malt whisky that sold for nearly twice the price. In his review, Pacult awarded the brand five stars – his highest recommendation – noting, “this masterpiece deserves a sixth rating star.”

As with Angel’s Envy, the super-premium bourbon of uncompromising character and quality, Cask Strength is aged to the perfect level of richness and maturity (up to seven years) in the few American white oak barrels that made the cut. The barrels are then blended into a single batch and finished in hand-selected port casks.

“Cask Strength is rare and rich bourbon worth savoring,” said Wes Henderson, Chief Innovation Officer, Angel’s Envy. “The first couple of releases sold out quickly so we’re thrilled to make it even more widely available this year.”

The suggested retail price for a 750ml bottle, which may vary by market, is $169. A remarkably complex bourbon at 119.3-proof and 59.65% alcohol by volume, Cask Strength is best enjoyed with just a bit of water to release the flavor nuances.

Angel’s Envy Cask Strength Tasting Notes
Color: Deep Amber red tint, coppery
Nose: Toffee, Butterscotch, Toasted Oak, Cherries, Ripe Peach, Berry Jam, Vanilla, notes of banana
Palate: Lots of port notes: Cherries, Oak, raisins. Still get a beautiful bourbon feel with Vanilla, Honey, a butter velvet feel, a little bit of clove spice, honeysuckle
Finish/Feel: Glides around your palate, lingers for a few moments, but not too long as to keep you from another sip. Add some water and it opens nicely. Warm and sweet, but still tingly.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Old leather furniture (the comfortable stuff!); orange marmalade on toast, caramel crème candy and tobacco. The port finish is just beneath all of this, and holds it together beautifully.
Palate: A rich, chewy mouthfeel of dark candied fruit with cinnamon, caramel and toffee; a dry sweetness.
Finish: Shorter than I would like, but well organized with a soft landing that leaves me looking to refill the glass.
Comments: This is the kind of whiskey I could pour a dram of and just sniff the glass for a few hours; a really intriguing nose. Despite being nearly 120 proof, I find this quite drinkable neat. With a bit of water, you don’t lose the balance between the port pipe influence and the bourbon, and the mouthfeel nicely transitioned from chewy to creamy. The port shines through more for me on this cask strength offering, much more than it did on the initial release. To be candid, I was not a big fan of the first release, but I think this is a beautifully crafted whiskey.
Rating: Must Try

What Richard Says:
Nose: The nose is a little heavier on the port that what comes across in the regular bottling. Hints of vanilla but there is also a treacly syrup note that reminds me more of single scotch than a bourbon.
Palate: The mouth feel is so rich and creamy that it’s almost like bourbon and port syrup. Citrus, tree pitch, and a fair dose of vanilla.
Finish: Long, slow, and surprisingly smooth for a cask strength bourbon.
Comments: Very nice. The price makes this one hard to swallow but it’s a delicious bourbon none the less.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Ro-Bro Marketing & PR for sending us a sample to review.

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Hudson Four Grain Bourbon

Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Whiskey
46% ABV
$45 to $50 (375 mL bottle)
Website
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What the Distillery Says:
Hudson Four Grain Bourbon whiskey brings together the distinct characteristics of corn, rye, wheat and malted barley. Each batch starts with 800 pounds of grain which is ground at the distillery, cooked and fermented, then distilled twice. It is aged in our signature small barrels. Our Four Grain Bourbon is a rich full-flavored spirit. The grains are perfectly suited one to the others so that the end result balances the soft richness of corn, the sharp peppery notes of rye, all the smooth subtlety of wheat and the sweetness of malted barley. Each bottle is hand numbered.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Cornbread; more like a corn whiskey than a typical bourbon; bit of burnt sugar and a hint of orange zest
Palate: Creamy corn syrup that starts off soft, and sharpens with a bit of spice at the end. This dram doesn’t attempt to mask its youthful age, but rather wears it proudly. Slight cinnamon undertone.
Finish: Relatively short but smooth, with a little spice.
Comments: I wish I had the Hudson Baby Bourbon on hand for a direct comparison, as this reminds me a lot of that, which is a 100% corn mashbill. The corn shines more easily with less age, leaving the wheat, rye and barely to play minor supporting roles. While an interesting whiskey, the price point of around $50 for a 375 mL is hard to fork over – unless you really like young corn whiskey.
Rating: Average

We would like to thank Exposure America for providing us with a review sample.

Editorial Note: I would like to take a minute to welcome Gary to the Whisk(e)y Apostle team! Long time readers will know that Whisk(e)y Apostle was never meant to be a one man show. I think diversity of opinion is at the core of what we are trying to proselytize. I’ve had a few people review with me over the years after Matt couldn’t do it any longer. Now though, I’ve found a great guy with a fantastic palate who geeks out about whiskey (mostly bourbon and rye) as much a me. Since we were sent a sample of this bourbon and Matt and I already reviewed it a while ago I thought it would be a great first review for Gary. Please welcome him to the team!

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