Gary

Managing apostle and whiskey enthusiast

Thoughts on Proposed TTB Rule Changes

From time to time, the TTB (or Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau within the Department of the Treasury) proposes rule changes, and they’ll post these on-line and allow a period of public comment.  I’ll be the first to admit that searching out proposed changes to government regulation isn’t what I enjoy doing with my spare time.  Thankfully the fine folks at WhiskeyCast did a great summary on a recent proposed change that did catch my attention – which is the proposed change to eliminate all but the minimum and maximum standards for containers sizes for distilled spirits.

When I first discovered Scotch and gained an appreciation for this concept of ‘independent bottlers’, I was immediately energized by the possibilities.  These small companies (ok, some not so small) can purchase barrels of whisky, do what they want with it (including unique finishes, etc), and bottle it – sometimes mentioning the source distillery, sometimes having to imply the source.  As a consumer, it opens up a huge world of different options.  If your’e unfamiliar with this concept, let me give you an example:

Let’s say your favorite single malt is Laphroaig.  You’ve tried most of their lineup and have enjoyed most of what you’ve tried.  In the US, you’re limited to a handful of options (10 yr, 10 yr Cask Strength, 18 yr, Lore, Select, Quarter Cask, Cairdeas and a few others).  Now picture this . . . someone asks if you’ve ever wanted to try Laphroaig with a sherry cask finish?  Or maybe a port cask finish?  Oh – and picture that it will be non-chill filtered, natural color, and at cask strength?  All of these are possibilities thanks to independent bottlers, who can take a chance on a single cask with doing something unique/different.  Don’t get me wrong – these are exceptions (there are plenty of independent bottlings that are along the lines of “Laphroaig 13 yr, 46%, NCF” – although you might get that for barely more than the 10yr (as the independent bottlers don’t have the same marketing overhead, etc).

My excitement over this ‘discovery’ (as in, discover for me; this is hardly new and has been a practice in the UK for generations) was almost as quickly squashed when I learned how few of those ever make it to the United States due to our regulations regarding “standards of fill”.

Today in the United States, distilled spirits can only be packaged in specific size containers (50 mL, 100 mL, 200 mL, 375 mL, 750mL, 1 liter, and 1.75 liters).  I wasn’t aware of other container sizes until touring Jim Beam many years ago and seeing the ‘quality control’ stock area which included 4.5 liter bottles (the tour guide explained that some export markets allowed larger and different sized bottles).  After trying some single malt Scotch that was independently bottled and sold overseas, I was disappointed that I may never have the opportunity to try some of these gems.  Why?  The similar standards for the European market (and really for most if not all of the rest of the world) are different – where the ‘standard’ bottle there is 700 ml vs our 750 ml.

Why don’t they just bottle in 750 ml?  I mean – they can, and some certainly do.  But it is a production burden to have one size for one market.  If you’re moving products through the rest of the world, why go through the trouble of buying bottles and making new labels for one market like the United States?  (the answer for some is that we’re a fairly large market, and have a lot more disposable income than others)

I did write my Congressman when I learned of this injustice, and got the prompt “Thank you for your letter, your concerns are really important to me . . . ” form response letter, and just wrote this off as one of those disappointing realities.  While the lifting of such restrictions would potentially be great for me as a whisk(e)y geek, I get it that these were offering some ‘protection’ to domestic producers (although it isn’t like anyone in the US can make Scotch, or anyone in Scotch can make Bourbon . . . so I never fully bought that argument – at least when it came to whisk(e)y).

“So this is awesome news, right?  No downside, right?”

Well . . . not exactly.  There is absolutely a risk that domestic producers like Jim Beam, Buffalo Trace, Wild Turkey, etc will decide “Good – let’s scrap these 750 mL bottles and just do everything as 700 mL without changing the prices from the 750 mL!”  Let’s face it – they’re selling their products overseas, and having to have different setups for the bottle sizes, so this creates an opportunity for efficiency – and I ABSOLUTELY expect that they’ll change to 700 mL.  What I don’t know is whether they will give American consumers the benefit of being good at math (in their defense, there’s a lot of evidence that we’re not so great at math collectively, or rather that we don’t apply it when purchasing whisk(e)y) and reduce their prices by the 9% of whisk(e)y they’d be shorting us if they bottle at 700 mL but still sell at the 750 mL price.

Let me be clear – this is NOT just up to the producers.  There are distributors and resellers (because of some OTHER goofy regulations requiring this three-tiered system we have – another soapbox for another day) in the mix.  A reseller may decide to just pocket any cost savings and not reprice a damn thing.  Prices have been going up pretty much across the board when it comes to bourbon and rye; some more than others.

My thoughts?  I’d prefer to have the opportunity to buy a wider variety of spirits that this change would enable.  If local producers take advantage, maybe I’ll buy more Scotch and bourbon.  At the end of the day, competition will address that – or it won’t.  But as a lover of variety, I’m in favor of the change.

What are your thoughts?  Feel free to share them in the comments.  Oh – and if you are so inclined, you can submit a comment to the TTB until August 30th (here’s the link with the proposed change, and option to comment).

Cheers!
Gary

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Basil Hayden’s Caribbean Reserve Rye

Basil Hayden’s Caribbean Reserve Rye

40% ABV
$45
Website
Basil_Haydens_Caribbean_Reserve_Rye
We would like to thank Beam Suntory and Multiply for sending us a sample to review.

What the Distillery Says

Experience the intriguing blend of rye whiskies with a touch of rum, balancing our signature rye spice with a subtle Caribbean sweetness.

AROMA: Rich caramel and brown sugar complemented by back notes of soft rye and vanilla
TASTE: A balanced blend of sumptuous rye and brown sweets with an ample woody accent
FINISH: A pleasant, long lingering warmth

GET TO KNOW CARIBBEAN RESERVE RYE
Sweet and Spicy
With its trademark spicy finish from a high-rye recipe, Basil Hayden’s® Bourbon has always been known for standing out in the crowd. Inspired by that legacy, Basil Hayden’s is excited to deliver another distinctive whiskey experience with the introduction of its latest limited-edition release – Basil Hayden’s Caribbean Reserve Rye™.

Crafted as an approachable whiskey expression to enjoy during the warm summer months, Basil Hayden’s Caribbean Reserve Rye takes inspiration from the sweet and spicy contrast between rye whiskey and rum. The limited-time offering features a blend of 8-year-old Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey and 4-year-old Canadian Rye Whisky, which bring to life layers of flavor, including distinct spice, toasted oak and vanilla notes. The blend is then finished with the addition of Black Strap Rum which ties the rye whiskey pairing together with sweet notes of brown sugar and molasses. The result is a balanced whiskey that remains approachable to discover at 80 proof.

Basil Hayden’s Caribbean Reserve Rye is the latest in a series of successful rye whiskey innovations from the brand, each of which push the limits of category convention to bring something unexpected to whiskey fans.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Molasses, brown sugar, burnt caramel, a twang of bbq sauce, little Worcestershire sauce, hints of pine, thyme and citrus spice.
Palate:  Sweet entry, bright rye spice notes, bit of orange, molasses sugar cookies with extra vanilla extract, subtle oak.
Finish:  Short to moderate in length, with savory spice notes (not quite pepper) popping up.
Comments:  This is a fairly dark dram; dark brown – lacking the red hues often seen in older bourbons/ryes, no doubt due to the addition of the Black Strap Rum. Important to note that technically this is not a whisk(e)y; it is a spirit which includes a blend of whiskies along with rum – so don’t approach it expecting it to be a rye or bourbon whisk(e)y. The nose at first came across as heavy with the rum influence, but as it sat in the glass it came into a better balance. The palate started off more integrated from the first sip. Nothing off putting to me with this. It is on the sweet side as you’d expect, but not cloyingly so. If you’re a fan of dark rum, this could be right in your wheelhouse.

Rating: Stands Out

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Armorik Double Maturation Breton Single Malt

Armorik Double Maturation
Whisky Breton Single Malt

46% ABV
$60
Website
Armorik Double Maturation French Single Malt

What the Distillery Says

Whisky Breton Single Malt

Genuine symbol of the Distillery’s values, this Armorik highlights both the quality of its know-how and its attachment to the Breton land. In partnership with a local cooper, the Distillery designed unique Brittany oak casks. Armorik Double Maturation remains in them for many long years before being transferred into Oloroso sherry casks for a second maturation. Reduced to 46% and non-chill filtered, it pleases through its richness and elegance.

Nose: Fruity and elegant, it has wonderful citrus and apple notes, highlighted by salted butter caramel fragrance.
Palate: Fine woody notes rapidly changed on to cereal ones, all with an unsuspected fullness.
Finish: Touches of heather honey perfume, the finish in the mouth is sustained by the cereals and pleasant marine notes.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Soft malt, fresh cut hay, apricots, over-ripe pears, subtle vanilla, apple pie (without cinnamon), hints of oak and leather with floral perfume.
Palate:  Creamy mouthfeel, rich fruity sweetness up front with apples, pears, peaches and honey; sharpens in the mid-palate with vanilla, pepper and citrus spice.
Finish:  Moderate to long in length, wet with honey and citrus notes lingering with some freshly ground pepper.
Comments:  I think this is the first French single malt I’ve tried, and it is quite lovely – and priced fairly. Sweet but balanced, rich and well executed. No age statement, but this doesn’t strike me as being young. If you’re a serious whiskey geek and hadn’t ever tried any whisk(e)y from France, I’d put this in the ‘Must Try’ category. If you don’t really care about provenance, and are looking purely at the enjoyment for the buck – this is a solid single malt.

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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Wolfburn Northland Single Malt

Wolfburn Northland Single Malt

46% ABV
$60 – $65
Website

What the Distillery Says

The smooth and warming flavours present in Northland come from the unhurried way in which the spirit is made, and from the maturation, which takes place in American oak quarter casks. Matured and bottled on site, Northland represents the first chapter in the history of Wolfburn.
Non chill-filtered @ 46% ABV.

Tasting notes
ON THE NOSE: Initially sweet with notes of fruit and fresh sea air. In the background you’ll find citrus freshness and hints of cereal, and just a trace of peat smoke.
ON THE PALATE: Sweet, nutty tones come to the fore, with hints of grapes and honey in the background. Floral flavours abound, enhanced with just a hint of dried fruit and spice.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Gentle sweet malt, smoke and subtle peat with ripe pears, cherries, and canned fruit undertones, freshly cut hay.
Palate:  Sweet barley sugar with honey and pears that sharpens with a touch of peat.
Finish:  Short to moderately long with an earthy, smokey note and a bit of pepper spice.
Comments:  A fairly ordinary single malt. Little peat and smoke (which I enjoy), nicely balanced, and I appreciate the non-chill filtering. It stands out when I throw a few drops of water in, tamping down the sharp edges and thickening the mouthfeel a bit.

Rating: Stands Out

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Noble Oak Double Oak Bourbon

Noble Oak Double Oak Bourbon
Bourbon Whiskey Finished with Sherry Oak Staves

45% ABV
$30-$37
Website
Noble Oak Double Oak Bourbon

What the Producer Says

A GREAT BOURBON WITH A NOBLE HEART.
NOBLE OAK is a unique award winning bourbon with a worthy purpose. We at Noble Oak are fanatics about wood. That’s because 70% of a bourbon’s flavor comes from the wood. With Noble Oak, we elegantly marry two of the world’s most coveted types of oak used in whiskey making: American White Oak and Spanish Sherry Oak. We use time honored methods and our patented Compression Finishing™ process to create an unrivaled bourbon with body, deep color, and richness of flavor from some of the finest sherry oak staves. The result is a Great Bourbon with a Noble Heart.

FIRST, we traditionally rest our bourbon in Charred New American White Oak barrels for a minimum of one year, developing sweet vanilla notes and a deep caramel tone.

THEN, through our patented Compression Finishing™ process, we add complexity and flavor using Spanish Sherry Oak Staves, the same wood used to craft the world’s finest and rarest whiskies. This process uses cycles of heat and pressure to maximize the interaction of wood and spirit. The resulting whiskey is full of richness and flavor with notes of dried fruit, cherry, vanilla and spice.

THE RESULT is Noble Oak: a Great Bourbon with a Noble Heart.
A Bourbon with a Purpose
In partnership with onetreeplanted.org, we help save our planet and restore our forests by replanting trees in deforested areas.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Heavy oak, vanilla flan with freshly grated nutmeg and toasted orange zest; notes of raisins with corn syrup.
Palate:  Soft oaky vanilla with caramel corn, raisins, and a touch of pepper spice.
Finish:  Short to moderate in length with oak and dried fruit notes.
Comments:  While nothing offputting, it is a bit on the oaky side and clearly a young bourbon. I’m not a big fan of many ‘double-oak’ products, and this is no exception. The sherry stave finishing is well done – not too heavy handed, which I appreciate. I don’t care to pay this much for young bourbon, but considering their noble cause (and unique offering, not a lot of sherry-stave finished bourbons out there), it isn’t outrageous.

Rating: Stands Out

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