SMWSA Cask No. 23.72 Islay, Loch Indaal 66.4% ABV Distilled July 2002 $90 US Allocation: 90 Bottles September 2012 Outturn Release
What the SMWSA Says: The nose forced shotgun shells and fireworks on us – but also gave barley sugars, custard and chocolate-coated foamy bananas; peppermint tea, liquorice, smoked ham and old bonfires. The palate’s big, eye-watering sherry slap took our breath away – sweet red liquorice, cinder toffee, creme brulee, treacle, cooked apples, ash and peat. The reduced nose suggested barbecued lamb chops dripping on embers, singed mint leaf and burnt lemon skin. Water definitely improved the palate – now sweeter (toasted coconut, vanilla, golden syrup, raisins, cherries) – also woody spices, crispy sage, and grilled lobster. The distillery is on the road from Port Charlotte to Bridgend.
Drinking tip: Let some water open it up and don’t rush it.
What Richard Says: Nose: Fresh cut pine, sherry, and brined rose petals. Water gives it an almost meaty aroma. I definitely prefer this at cask strength. Palate: Sherry, candied apples, pepper vinegar barbeque sauce, and a little bit of raisins. Finish: The finish needs the water that the nose shrugs aside. Ash, peat, burnt wood and just a little bit minty. Comments: This one’s a little young for me. Not my favorite Laddie. It’s a freshman all dolled up with padding in her bra trying to get into the senior prom. Sweetheart, your time will come. It’s just not right now. Rating: Average Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.
John E. Fitzgerald Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Very Special Small Batch 46% ABV $19.99 Website
What the Distillery Says: Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc., the country’s largest independent family-owned and operated spirits producer and marketer, announces the initial launch of Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey into 12 markets in September 2012. A super-premium 92 proof Bourbon, Larceny is the heir to the wheated Bourbons that make up the historic Old Fitzgerald franchise that Heaven Hill acquired in 1999. In fact, it is the somewhat controversial history of John E. Fitzgerald and his eponymous Bourbon brand that provides the story, and name, to Larceny Bourbon, the latest new label from the venerated distillery that produces Evan Williams and Elijah Craig Bourbons and Rittenhouse Rye. Larceny Bourbon continues the Old Fitzgerald tradition of using wheat in place of rye as the third or “small” grain in the whiskey’s grain recipe, or mashbill as it is commonly known. The use of winter wheat replaces the spicier, fruitier flavor notes that rye provides with a softer, rounder character that is the hallmark of Old Fitzgerald and other “wheated” Bourbons such as Maker’s Mark and the Van Winkle line.
It is actually the story of the Old Fitzgerald brand, made famous by the late Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle Sr., that forms the historical basis for Larceny Bourbon. According to industry lore, John E. Fitzgerald had founded his distillery in Frankfort , KY shortly after the Civil War ended, making his Bourbon available only to steamship lines, rail lines and private clubs. This story was furthered by S.C Herbst, who owned the “Old Fitz” brand from the 1880’s through Prohibition, and “Pappy” Van Winkle, who purchased the brand during Prohibition and made it his signature label. However, it was revealed by Pappy’s granddaughter, Sally Van Winkle Campbell, in her 1999 book But Always Fine Bourbon—Pappy Van Winkle and the Story of Old Fitzgerald, that in fact John E. Fitzgerald was not a famous distiller at all. He was in reality a treasury agent who used his keys to the warehouses to pilfer Bourbon from the finest barrels. His discerning palate led those barrels to which he chose to help himself being referred to as “Fitzgerald barrels”.
Now Heaven Hill has launched Larceny, whose tagline—“A taste made famous by an infamous act”—sets history straight.
Tasting Notes: Aroma: Fresh bread and toffee, with a note of butterscotch Taste: Buttery caramel and honeyed notes, with a rich mouthfeel Finish: Long, gently sweet and savory
What Richard Says: Nose: Cherries…lots of cherries and vanilla. Cherry Vanilla Dr. Pepper? Maybe. The is also a little lavender dancing in the back with scalded milk. Palate: Not nearly as sweet as the nose would lead you to believe. Vanilla, a nice oak char, rich, and slightly savory. Well balanced as a good wheater should be. Finish: Butterscotch and dry oak with hints of tobacco and oiled leather. Comments: Definitely the Heaven Hill wheater DNA from the 2010 Parker’s Heritage release. If I had to put Larceny up against Buffalo Trace’s Weller Special Reserve and Maker’s I’d pick this one every time. I may have just found my new sub $25 wheater. Rating: Must Try, Great Value
SMWSA Cask No. 125.48 Highlands, Northern Highlands 52.1% ABV Distilled November 1998 $110 US Allocation: 150 Bottles September 2012 Outturn Release
What the SMWSA Says: The nose, initially offering orange liqueur, balsa wood and old-fashioned tea chests, took some time to open; a drop of water helped us to discover the depth and complexity – caramel, Mars bar, fruit tea with honey, a mixed bag of dried fruits and nuts and Dorset Cereals muesli with maple syrup. The palate, at natural strength, had good heat in it, plus flavours of leather, wood, tea leaves and coconut, with cinder toffee, burnt sugar and honeycomb crunch. The reduced palate developed malt and candy sweetness, with pleasant warm spices in the finish. ‘Perfected’ by the sixteen men of Tain.
Drinking tip: Pretty versatile really, but not one to be rushed.
What Richard Says: Nose: Musty black tea like what’s left in a Tetley box after all the bags are gone. Dark orange notes and with a little water honey and wildflowers come out. Palate: Caramel, British Mars bars, and toffee. Water brings out more orange notes and makes the sweetness more honey than toffee/caramel. Finish: The finish without water is hot and a little musty. With water it’s of medium length and lightly peppery. Comments: This is not like other Glenmorangies that I’ve tried but they spend so much time with wood finishes that it’s hard to say. This is a very nice express that I highly recommend trying. Rating: Must Try Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.
SMWSA Cask No. 2.81 Highlands, Speyside (Livet) 59.9% ABV Distilled April 1996 $120 US Allocation: 210 Bottles September 2012 Outturn Release
What the SMWSA Says: Rich and heady aromas of butterscotch, molasses adn rum soaked raisins together with creme brulee, orange oil, geraniums and a greenhouse on a warm day. Toffee sweetness was balance by balsamic and a trace of struck matches. The taste was hot, there was liquorice, black tea tannins, toffee and black pepper. Water improved it offering smooth buttery toffee, tobacco and balsamic. The palate was still tannic (like chewing sticks) with brown sauce bitterness but also sweet with vanilla, butterscotch and caramel. This Speyside distillery is close to the famous pack horse bridge.
Drinking tip: A pudding dram.
What Richard Says: Nose: This one noses somewhere between a Kentucky rye bourbon and a robust California Cabernet. Water brings out more of the sherry. Palate: Rich, dark, and chewy like a plum and raspberry Starburst candy. Water lightens the load again toward pronounced sherry notes. Finish: The finish is a little hot out of the barrel with a heavy dry oak influence. Water mellows the dry oak nicely and leave a pleasant liquorice flavor. Comments: In reviewing the provided tasting notes after I did my tasting I zeroed in on “molasses” and “balsamic” vinegar. Those are great descriptors that permeate the nose and palate. However, they were foreign to me until pointed out because they are unusual for me to find in a scotch. This is a very rich thick dram that is fun to explore. Aberlour maybe? Rating: Must Try Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.
The Isle of Arran Devil’s Punch Bowl Single Malt Scotch Whisky 52.3% ABV $100 to $110 Website What the Distillery Says: The Devil’s Punch Bowl Chapter No.01
“I have selected the casks for the Devil’s Punch Bowl with a view to creating a special release of The Arran Malt where the sum is even greater than the wonderful parts. The Sherry Butts act like the rhythm section of a band; setting the tone and driving the character of the malt. Deep in colour and rich on the palate these casks are the heartbeat of this whisky. The 1996 Bourbon Barrels add a wonderful honeyed sweetness to proceedings whilst the Sherry Hogsheads imbue a perfect harmony of aroma and flavour. As a unique twist I have added some of our 2006 Peated Arran, in combination with regular un-peated Arran for the very first time, giving the finish a subtle smoky edge. They say the Devil has all the best tunes but here he has the perfect whisky too”.
– James MaTaggart (Master Distiller)
Devil’s Punch Bowl
The Devil’s Punch Bowl is a limited edition expression of The Arran Single Malt inspired by the glacial hollow Coire na Ciche whose sinister presence dominates the north-east coast of Arran. Our Master Distiller, James ‘Lucifer’ MacTaggart, has been to hell and back to select only the finest casks for this demonic masterpiece. Each cask has been chosen to contribute a specific characteristic and through the dark art of blending these whiskies have conspired to create an elixir of exceptional complexity and finesse.
Bottled at natural strength and without chill-filtration, The Devil’s Punch Bowl is a testimony to the consistent superior quality of The Arran Malt across each year of production. For your elucidation the numbers of every cask, hand-picked for this bottling, have been listed on the inside of this box. Dare to meet the devil and savour the astonishing array of aromas and flavours on display.
• Multi-Vintage release of The Arran Malt • Named after a stunning landmark on the Isle of Arran • Limited Edition of 6,660 Bottles Worldwide • Bottled at Natural Cask Strength 52.3% • Unique vatting of 24 Arran casks – Full details (Cask Number, Year of Distillation & Cask Type) printed on the inside lid of the gift box • Based around stunning 1996 Sherry Butts • Includes 2006 Peated Arran Barrels • First-ever combination of peated & un-peated Arran • Non Chill Filtered & No artificial colouring
What Richard Says: Nose: Out of the bottle it’s sherry, heather, and herbal notes but it is also hard to get much else through the alcohol. With some water you get fruitier notes of under ripe Bartlett pears and over ripe grapes. Palate: Clean and mildly oaked. Water mellows it even further. It’s a light, crisp dram with a little spicy woody note that carriers into the finish. Finish: The finish dries quickly leaving raw oak and burnt simple syrup. As the dryness fades it gets bitter like Warheads candies. Water makes it finish a little spicier and reminds me more of extra aged air dried oak staves. Comments: In a word…underwhelming. There’s nothing wrong with this dram. It’s pleasant to drink. I was just hoping for more (especially at $100+ a bottle for NAS whisky) and I’m not finding it. Rating: Average
I would like to thank the U.S. Distributors and P.R. for Isle of Arran for providing me with a review sample.
