February 2010

Best…Whiskey…EVER!

Okay, it’s rant time again. I’m trying not to be a curmudgeonly whiskey blogger but I just can’t help it sometimes.

Awards. In and of themselves I have no problem with whiskey awards. I find it amusing how you see some whiskey advertisements where they wear a gold medal from the 1st Annual Columbus Georgia Pig Chase & Whiskey Awards (no that doesn’t really exist…at least I don’t think so) like it’s a an Olympic Gold. I’m not going to argue the merits of one award over another. There are some I respect more than others and John Hansell already spoke in the past about the mulititude of awards that you buy into to even be considered so I won’t go there either. What’s bugging me today is the World Whiskies Awards 2010 from Whiskey Magazine. If you haven’t seen it already, here’s what they liked:

World’s Best Single Malt Whisky: Ardbeg Corryvreckan

World’s Best Blended Whisky: Hibiki 21 Years Old

World’s Best Blended Malt Whisky: Taketsuru 21 Years Old

World’s Best American Whiskey: Rittenhouse Straight Rye 100 proof

World’s Best Whisky Liqueur: Wild Turkey American Honey

World’s Best Grain Whisky: Greenore 15 Years Old

World’s Best New Release: Parker’s Heritage Collection Golden Anniversary

Do you see a problem here? No, I’m not asking why whisky liqueur is even a category. I gave up on liqueurs a long time ago and I’m sure they’ve improved quite a bit recently. Matt and I are conversing on a liqueur review series in the not too distant future. If any producers want to change my mind please contact me about what you’d like me to try. 🙂

I take issue with the “World’s Best American Whiskey”. Oh I really like Rittenhouse BIB. I think it’s a great value rye and punches well above it’s price range. Is it the World’s Best American Whiskey? No. If there is anyone in the whiskey world or blogosphere that wants to make an arguement why it is then please due. I’d be happy to post your response. However, I think it’s actually the “best whiskey that was submitted to us for judging under certain criteria for the given category” but that doesn’t really fit on a medal or trophy.

So why am I harping on this? I don’t question the integrity of the awards or the judges. I really just have a hard time with the wording. It’s not actually the World’s Best American Whiskey by anyone’s standards. If you’re new to the world of whiskey and you pick up a copy of the next issue of Whiskey Magazine and see this then you might run out and buy a bottle based solely on this. Is that a bad thing? No, but if you don’t take to the Rittenhouse then you might write off all American whiskey. After all, according to a prestigious award given by a well known magazine this is the World’s Best American Whiskey so everything else must be sub par in comparison.

Am I crazy here?

Richard

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Penderyn Welsh Whisky

Penderyn Aur Cymru Single Malt Welsh Whisky (March 09)
46% ABV/92 Proof
Around $65
Available in select markets

What the Distillery Says:
At premium strength (46%) Penderyn has an exceptionally balanced taste with an aroma of cream toffee and fleetingly of fresh new leather. Then, as the initial sensations fade, the finishing notes of tropical fruits, raisins and vanilla emerge strongly and are long lasting.

Like Welsh Gold (Aur Cymru) this malt whisky is rare and precious. Handcrafted and Madeira Finished.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Ripe fruits, floral sweetness, aged and polished wooden furniture, and well worn leather. Very brandy-like. Cognac in the 10 to 20 Year Old range more than anything else.
Palate: Macerated orchard fruit but not citrus. It’s more like peaches and apricot but not sweet at all. Vegetal under currents. A good bit of heat and spice that seems to be coming from the youth of the whisky and alcohol more than the inherent flavor profile.
Finish: It leaves the lips numb. More woody on the finish. Those vegetal notes show up more pronounced on the finish than the palate.
Comments: This is definitely an interesting whisky. The nose alone makes it stand out. I love the nose. The palate is pleasant and should develop with some more years on it.
Rating: Stands Out

What Matt Says:
Nose: At the back there is a distinct “whisky-ness” about it (an echo of smoke, caramel and crème brulee that reminds me of Springbank). The predominant scents are more akin to sour fruit candies. When I was in the UK, I got addicted to these Starburst Jellybeans. They were a lot better than the ones we get over here (actual fruit juice and different flavors). The two flavors that really grabbed me were the pink grapefruit and black currant flavors. This smells exactly like those tasted.
Palate: Cantaloupe, barley malt, green wood and sap. More oak than the nose suggests.
Finish: Slight burn with lingering oak.
Comments: This is a very nice dram. Its easy to drink. Its not all that complex, so you can drink a lot of it. It easily holds it’s own with other entry-level drams from the rest of the UK. However, for the price point, I want a little more complexity. I love Wales and there is nothing else like this out there, so I would buy a bottle of it for the novelty. I would drink it all and not necessarily buy another bottle based on this bottling. I’ve enjoyed past bottlings much more and look forward to future bottlings.
Rating: Average

Overall Rating: Average

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Supply, Demand, & Economics

I want to start off by apologizing for the recent slowdown in Whisk(e)y Apostle activity. Matt’s on hiatus and I had all these reviews lined up to do. Unfortunately, my beautiful little angel of a daughter brought home a cold and I haven’t been able to smell anything for the last week and a half. That makes whiskey tasting difficult. Hopefully I will be back up and running this weekend. We’ll have to wait and see.

The time has given me the chance to go through emails from readers both old and new. As I was going through a few it reminded me of an article I’ve been meaning to write for Whisk(e)y Apostle for quite some time. I get asked about availability more than any other topic by a wide margin. That’s really the main reason why my monthly new release summary is exclusively those items coming to the U.S. It’s very frustrating to hear about all the great new releases that we can’t get here.

Why do so many new releases never come to the U.S.?

And if they do come stateside, why can’t I find them near me?

There are three main reasons why you may not see the new release of Glenmorangie or Hibiki in a liquor store near you:
1. Supply
2. Demand
3. Economics

Richard, we just want our whiskey, not an economics lesson. Fair enough. I’ll keep it relevant and in layman’s terms. I promise.

Supply
There are some bottlings that are even made in the U.S. but don’t come to a store near you. It’s driven me nuts for years that I can’t get Buffalo Trace in Atlanta. If I can reasonably drive to Kentucky in a day and buy it, then you would think that they would sell it here right? Well, as the Buffalo Trace label has grown they have to make enough for everyone who wants it. It’s pretty darn good, especially at its price point so the supply has been a little strained. If a producer can only make so much or only have so much on hand then they have to be selective on where they distribute it. Usually, this means the major markets like New York, San Francisco, Chicago, etc. will get it first. This leads right into the demand issue.

Demand
For whiskey that doesn’t see the distribution levels that Jack Daniels and Glenlivet do there has to be sufficient demand in your market for whiskey or the producer won’t bother allocating any to your area. This recently came up in regards to the new Hibiki 12 Year Old Japanese Blend. I’m dying to try the stuff and Matt’s seen it in New York but no hint of it in Georgia. One of our readers asked when we might see some. I spoke with several retailers and ultimately the distributor and importer before getting the disappointing news. Atlanta isn’t a “major whisky market” in the eyes of international whisk(e)y producers. We don’t have the festivals, sales, or interest in our area to warrant some new products bothering to make inroads into our market. If you live in Charleston, Oklahoma City, Wichita, or similar areas you may have the same issue. How do we combat this? As Apostles you have to be a driving force to see this kind of stuff in your area. If 10 local retailers each hear from 20 individuals and then let their distributor know that there’s a sizeable demand for a product in that area then the distributors may talk to the importers and say “Hey we really need to get some of this stuff to Wichita.”

Economics
However, some things will just never come to the U.S. The reason is that the cost for the producer to make it and send it here is more than they can make on the sales. Whiskey production is a business after all. The United States is one of the few countries that sell 750ml bottles instead of the 700ml international standard. (South Africa & Sweden are a couple of others) It’s also one of an even smaller list of countries that says that by law all full sized bottled spirits sold within its borders must be in bottles with a volume of at least 750ml. So if you’re making a very small amount of whiskey or it’s a vintage or single cask bottling and you know you can sell all 100 bottles that you’ll make at 700ml across the world then it doesn’t make sense to set up a whole new bottling line just send 10 750ml bottles to the U.S. The government justifies it as protecting the consumer. There are points on both sides of the argument but I still want more variety and I don’t care if I have to give up 50ml to get it.

I know this doesn’t take the sting out of missing out on the latest and greatest new thing but I hope it at least helped in understanding what’s going on. Keep pushing for more stuff in your area and you may be surprised by what you get.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

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New U.S. Releases – January ‘10

We’re kind of in the lull of whiskey releases this time of year. There are no major U.S. festivals or holidays to tie new releases to so it’s been pretty quite. I only have two lined up for you.

“?” Maker’s Mark
Timeframe: TBD/June
ABV: 47%
Price: TBD
This is pretty major news in terms of bourbon. Fans have been chomping at the bit to get something new from Maker’s for a long time. We don’t have too many details yet beyond the proof. They haven’t even come up with a name yet. I heard rumor of a June release but John Hansell said that Master Distiller Kevin Smith is still tinkering with the final iteration so who knows.

Knappogue Castle 1994 Vintage Irish Whiskey
Timeframe: TBD
ABV: 40%
Price: $100
This is a special 15 year old release from the Bushmill period of Knappague. It should be interesting.

That’s all that’s come across my desk in the last month. There are always a whole bunch of things that you can’t get here but I try to focus of U.S. availability. That seems to be a rarity in whiskey blogging for some reason. As always, if I missed something please let me know.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

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