In the spirit of fairness, we follow up our Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 review with the next in the Jack Daniel’s line. If you remember, we started our Gateway Series with Jim Beam White Label and Jim Beam Black Label.
Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee Whiskey 40% ABV (80 proof), about $30 Available in most US markets (not sure about abroad)
What the distillery says: Just like Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey and Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel, Gentleman Jack in Charcoal Mellowed before going into the barrel. Gentleman Jack, however, receives an additional “blessing” when it is Charcoal Mellowed again after reaching maturity – making it the only whiskey in the world to be Charcoal Mellowed twice, giving it ultimate smoothness. Gentleman Jack is full-bodied with fruit and spices, and its finish is silky, warm, and pleasant. When you drink Gentleman Jack, you’ll always enjoy rich, rewarding taste.
What Richard Says: Nose: Honeysuckle and a lot of honey. It’s a much more delicate nose than the standard Jack Daniels expression. Palate: Tart candy, a lot of honey, and vanilla. It is even smoother and more mellow that Jack Daniels Black Label. It also has a more viscous mouthfeel. Finish: Exceptionally smooth finish. Almost none of the spice of regular Jack but more of that odd tartness. Comments: Gentleman Jack is Jack Daniels smoking a huge blunt. It just doesn’t get more mellow. That’s good and bad. On the good side it really doesn’t get any smoother and easier to drink that Gentleman Jack. The downside is that there aren’t many pronounced flavors to bring me back for a second glass. Rating: Average
What Matt Says: Nose: Honeysuckle and hummingbird food (sugar water). Delicate and floral, like spring in Tennessee. Palate: Smooth and slightly oily. Oak, vanilla, spice, and something that curls my tongue a little at the sides. I don’t taste a tartness as much as I experience it. Finish: Very smooth with very little burn. Comments: Probably the smoothest “gateway” whiskey in the American whiskey bracket. It lacks the complexity of similarly priced (but harder to find) bourbons. I would drink this before Jim Beam Black though. It is an interesting science experiment. Gentleman Jack is produced and matured in the exact same manner as Old No. 7, but is filtered again after maturation. It really smooths out the rough edges. I’ve got a soft spot in my heart for Gentleman Jack. I’m not sure why. I could drink it anytime. What it lacks in complexity is what makes it accessible as an everyday dram. That said, I don’t keep it stocked in my bar, but I wouldn’t say no to glass if offered. Rating: Average
After hearing that we accused them of over-pricing, the good folks at Charbay endeavored to teach us otherwise by sending us gobs of literature and a lovely sample. How’d they do? Read on, dear apostles, read on.
What the distillery says: [these are some bullet points from the press release – Matt] Single malt distilled from pilsner beer – a first in the history of whiskey distillation. 100% Two-Row European Barley grown and malted in British Columbia. No peat during malting – to emphasize the natural grain flavors. Hops added to the mash: Nugget, Cascade & Eroica. Double-distilled in 1000-gallon Alambic Charentais Pot Still. Classical 7-Fraction distillation method for purity & smoothness. Aged 6 years in custom-made new White Oak barrels (charred to #3 Gator Skin); aged for 3 more years in stainless. Bottled at 110 proof and not filtered. Second release from Collector’s Series – 20,000 gallons of Pilsner distilled for 3.5 weeks straight (24/7) in 1999 by Miles & Marko Karakasevic (22 barrels total). Aged at variable temperatures; 5 barrels chosen & blended to share how the Whiskey is aging.
What Richard says: Nose: This really is a truely lovely nose. It’s very floral and fruity with hints of grape, citrus, and something tropical that I can’t put my finger on. The nose strongly resembles a medium aged cognac. Pierre Ferrand Amber or Grand Mariner maybe? Palate: Quite a precocious little tart aren’t you? The palate opens slow. First a tangy flavor that’s almost sweet but not quite. It follows with a spiced heat and finishes with the hoppy pilsner notes. It’s very viscous and luscious in mouthfeel. For 55% ABV it’s more drinkable than you would expect. Unfortunately, with water the palate deflates. Finish: The finish remains hoppy and a little rough around the edges but that’s mostly from the bottling strength. Cutting it with a little water smooths out the finish. Comments: This whiskey confuses me a little. It has more in common with a brandy than a whiskey, both in nose and palate. Definitely a whiskey for cognac drinkers. It is remarkably smooth at higher proof. It’s a very intriguing tipple but at the price that they are asking I can’t tell you to go out and buy it. Matt and I don’t disagree too much on whiskey but I can’t give it nearly as high a rating as he did. I can’t say must buy because of the price tag. I’m inclined against must try too because it’s doesn’t taste like a whiskey. But maybe that’s why you should try it. Rating: Stands Out
What Matt says: Nose: Nutmeg, rice pudding and caramel. There is a distinct smell that reminds me of the cold dregs from a Turkish coffee. Yes, I said it. It smells cold. I know that “dregs from a Turkish coffee” is pretty specific and of little use if you have not had the experience, but that is what I get. Sorry. Palate: Incredibly complex. Black pepper, cold (there it is again!) wet black tea, high-end marijuana, spearmint, evergreen, and Moroccan mint tea. There is even some fruit in there (muscadines?). Finish: There is a little bit of burn on the finish (it’s 110 proof!), but with a few drops of water that goes away completely. This whiskey dances on the palate for a while, leaving a long finish of Moroccan mint tea. Comments: I can only assume that the complexity of this whiskey comes from the addition of the hops. This is truly an amazing dram. Smooth and delicious. The only critique I can offer is this: this whiskey is so unique and interesting that it would not satisfy my craving for single malt whiskey. However, if I had a craving for this (and I will) there is nothing else that could satisfy my lust. The price tag is hefty, but there is nothing like it anywhere. There are only a few bottles of this left, so I hope there is a Batch #3 in the works (and that they send us a sample of it). Rating: Must Try/Must Buy
Sorry we’ve been M.I.A. for a little while. Stay tuned for our review of Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey, Batch #2. Good stuff. Then we will get back to our Gateway Series with Gentlemen Jack from Jack Daniel’s.
For the Memorial Day weekend, I will be out in Boulder, CO sampling as many micro-brews as I can find. I was hoping to hit up Stranahan’s new digs in Denver while out there, but they’ve got the weekend off after non-stop 17 hour days since moving. Maybe next time.
If you’re in Boulder this weekend and see a guy with a handlebar mustache and a chin-strap beard ask him if he’s a whiskey apostle, ’cause it’s probably me.
Since everyone will be breaking out their grills this weekend, I was wondering what your favorite backyard bar-be-que dram would be. Personally, I grill with a beer in hand and settle in to a nice whisk(e)y after dinner. What’s in my glass changes with the wind. This feels like an American whiskey weekend, something smoky and strong, maybe barrel proof. Four Roses Single Barrel perhaps, or maybe George T. Stagg. Summertime is also a great time to break out the cocktails. Something cool and simple is always my preference. Try a Rye and Ginger, a Mint Julep, or a Lynchburg Lemonade. Very refreshing.
Raise a glass to the fighting and the fallen this weekend. Drink well, drink responsibly.
Balvenie 17yo Releases in reverse chronological order.
Friday night, Sam Simmons (known as to some) hosted a class at Astor Center, titled “The Influence of Wood Finishing on Whisky: A Retrospective of The Balvenie 17yr.” Needless to say, I was excited when I first heard about this event. Since the release of Glenmorangie’s line of wood finishes, I have dreamed of either hosting or attending a class where participants were given the opportunity for side by side tastings of variously finished whiskies. In my head, this class would include tastings of the finishing barrel’s previous contents. Sam, it seems, is of a same mind. Although he used the various Balvenie 17yo releases instead of the Glenmorangie that sparked the idea in my head, I could not have been more thrilled (he is the Balvenie brand ambassador for the US after all).
Sam started the night with little history about the Balvenie and why it is his favorite distillery (family owned, they grow their own barley, they malt their own barley, employ their own coopers and copper smiths, and of course Master Distiller/Blender David Stewart). Now you may say, “but Matt, he’s the brand ambassador, doesn’t he have to say these thing?” Well, yes and no. He tells the truth on all accounts. The list above is what makes the Balvenie stand out among the myriad of distilleries sprinkled about Scotland. Furthermore, Sam asserts that his love of the Balvenie started long before he became an employee of William Grant and Sons. I think we can trust him on this.
Roughly 70% of whisky’s flavor comes from the barrel. This is why the type of barrel is so important in the initial maturation and finishing of the product. To that end, Sam started the evening with some neutral spirits straight from the still. Not straight from the still exactly, the spirits had been cut to 63% ABV as that is what goes into the barrel for aging. If you have ever had grappa or moonshine, you have an idea what this tastes like. The nose smelled faintly of fruit with heavy cereal and alcohol notes. The taste? Well, the alcohol is strong with some malty goodness buried in the back.
Next we moved onto the actual whisky. David Stewart created a firestorm in the whisky industry back in 2000/2001 with the introduction of the Balvenie Islay Cask. Industry insiders, enthusiasts, and casual drinkers were giddy with this “best of both worlds” style bottling. David being an adventurous man, he responded with, not more Islay cask, but with a New Wood release in 2005/2006. Since then, New Oak, Sherry Oak, and Rum Cask have all hit the market. Apart from the Rum Cask (released just last year), the whiskies are very difficult to find and have become collector’s items. How any man can buy a bottle of whisky and just look at it, I’ll never know. Our tasting moved in reverse chronological order.
The Balvenie 17yo Rum Cask spent four months in Jamaican rum casks after 17 years in traditional oak. This is an excellent dram, but I was hoping for something a little more akin to the Glenfiddich 21yo Rum Cask. Where the Glenfiddich is well balanced, the Balvenie is a little too sweet for my palate. It is almost cloying in its sweetness. Perhaps this is a function of age, but I think that the deeply honeyed nature of the Balvenie just goes over the edge here (slightly). We tried this along with Appleton Estates Jamaican Rum (one of my favorites). Sam could not confirm the source of the Jamaican rum casks used at the Balvenie, but we were still able to tasted the lineage of this whisky. The rum imparts the smells and flavors of bananas and coconuts to the already sweet whisky. If you’ve ever wanted to taste a whisky that smells like a banana split, here’s your chance.
For the Sherry Oak release, the whisky spent all 17 years in Oloroso sherry butts. I am not a sherry drinker. However, I tend to like whiskies produced in this manner (the Macallan, the Glenrothes). I was interested to see how the Balvenie would hold up to the sherry. I have to say, it was a let down for me. Once again, we have a balance problem. The whisky smelled delightful (like baked apples). However, the palate was overly sherried for me. The proof of the connection was provided by a glass of Oloroso sherry. After a few sips back and forth, I was sure that the sherry was holding the whisky back.
The New Oak release was quite an experiment. First David Stewart vatted 17yo whisky from sherry casks and bourbon casks. Then, he aged the vatted whisky in new toasted oak casks for four months. My favorite whiskey so far, the nose was like creme brulee with traces of mint. The palate had mint and the traditional honeyed tones morphed into agave and maple syrup. We tried this with a 12yo Elijah Craig bourbon (a good dram by itself). Once again, Sam cannot verify the source of the barrels used in the production of this whisky, but he says that he has seen Heaven Hill (the producers of Elijah Craig) barrels around the warehouse. That is why he chose this particular bourbon to supplement the tasting.
The New Wood release, featured whisky aged first in barrels that previously held Balvenie whiskey then in new oak barrels. This is a real wine drinker’s whisky (bright, citrusy, oak and honey). Tried next to a very oaky Chardonnay, this whisky stands out as unique and interesting. Not a bold whisky by any means, but a good whisky to complement food or to tempt a wine drinker from vine to grain.
Finally, we reached the Islay Cask. This whisky is long gone from store shelves and is now relegated to online auctions and collector’s cabinets. It is really a shame though. This is the best of the five releases so far, and you can see (taste) why this created such an uproar when released. We tasted this with Laphroaig 10. Laphroaig is highly peatly and not very well balanced, but it is reasonable to assume that Laphroaig or something similar slept in these casks before they held 17yo Balvenie. The alchemy of this release is really interesting. The nose is honeyed smoke, like a bonfire on the beach at dusk as the wind carries scents of honeysuckle from the shore. The palate carries on the smokey sweetness and adds butter toffee and citrus. Truly a delightful whisky.
I am grateful to Sam Simmons for offering this class. It was really a dream come true for me. Although I curse him for giving me the opportunity to fall in love with another whisky that is beyond my grasp.
After the “Blend Your Own Balvenie Signature Reserve” class, one of our readers asked if there were any plans to take that class to the UK. Well Ian, I’m afraid neither that class nor this one will be offered over there. These classes were both stocked from Sam’s personal collection. Sorry folks.
This week we continue our Gateway Series with another staple of American whiskey, Jack Daniel’s Old No.7.
Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Sour Mash Tennessee Whiskey 40% ABV (80 Proof), about $20 Available: Most Widely Available Whiskey In The World
What the distillery says: Jack Daniel’s, the best selling whiskey in the world, was established in 1866 and is crafted at America’s oldest registered distillery in the small town of Lynchburg, Tennessee. Made using the finest grains and pure, iron-free water from our cave spring, Jack Daniel’s is a unique whiskey that is slowly mellowed drop by drop through 10 feet of sugar maple charcoal and matured in new American oak barrels to achieve its smooth character.
What Richard says: Nose: On the nose I get mostly burnt caramel and vanilla. There is also a subtle undercurrent of wildflowers. Palate: Candied oak? It sounds odd but that’s what it tastes like. Overall the palate is very smooth and almost chewy. Very mellow. So much so that there are not a lot of “strong” flavors that stand out to be recognized. Finish: This has a much smoother finish than comparable bourbons. There is a little bit of peppery spice but mostly I’m left with an odd sort of tartness. Comments: Personally, I think Jack Daniel’s is one of the best gateway whiskeys around. It is very smooth and drinkable. In terms of consistency, with the millions of bottle a year that they sell, you really can’t get much more consistent. While I would prefer Jack with Coke, I’m not against drinking it straight. The charcoal mellowing really adds to the smoothness and drinkability over like bourbons. If it wasn’t for that weird tart finish I’d like it even more. Rating: Average
What Matt says: Nose: Orange shellac primarily. With water, it opens up to potpourri (more pungent/sharp/floral than sweet). Palate: Smooth and bland. Old No. 7 is so “mellow” it is difficult to grasp good tasting notes. There are faint traces of oak and orange peel. Finish: Smooth and dry with very little burn. Does not linger. Comments: There is nothing interesting or impressive about this whiskey. There is nothing terribly off-putting either. The smoothness and mildness of flavor makes Old No. 7 a better mixer than Jim Beam White Label. What makes Jack desirable (and a great gateway whiskey) is its lack of distinctive character. Do not waste your time sipping this one. Use this for mixers when you are feeling lazy. Rating: Probably Pass (unless making a cocktail)
Overall Rating: Average (good if you are planning on mixing or looking for gentle entry into the world of whiskey)
