Mortlach 16 Year (K&L Wine)

Mortlach Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Distilled 1998
The Signatory Vintage Un-Chillfiltered Collection

$100
55.8% ABV
Website

What the Bottler Says
Can we keep the Mortlach momentum rolling? It seems that ever since we released that amazing sherry butt of Mortlach from Chieftain’s all those years ago, we’ve been riding a wave of Mortlach enthusiasm for the sherry-aged Speyside beast. Diageo even released their own single malt version (maybe we had something to do with that, eh?) We’re always on the lookout for more Mortlach, especially sherry-aged barrels, and it turns out that Signatory had a sherry-finished butt sitting in their Pitlochry location just there for the taking. The first sip is all you need to get excited: lots of gingerbread, cinnamon, holiday cookie goodness just explodes on the palate, with cakey, sherry flavor rounding out the back end. At full proof, it’s as much of a beast as ever. But the fact that this cask was simply finished in sherry, rather than aged in the sweet wine from day one, is a big benefit. The maltiness of the whisky is still there at the core and the finish still sings of whisky

What Richard Says
Nose: Spicy and fruity. Allspice, sage, cinnamon, vanilla, nectarines, and dried apricots.
Palate: Rich and mouth coating with a terrific sweetness. Cigar humidors, more dried apricots, cinnamon candies, high cacao dark chocolates, and a big smack of sherry.
Finish: A nice woodiness with hints of graphite and cinnamon. When everything else fades you’re left with dark chocolate cocoa powder.
Comments: This beasts needs the water. Even for those, like myself, that regularly indulge in the 52-58% cask strength dram this one needs a few splashes or it comes out too hot. Delicious, but too hot. You’ll only be tasting the first dram otherwise. Sadly, this barrel is all sold out. With Diageo releasing their own ridiculously overpriced proprietary bottlings of Mortlach I’m sure the glory days of independently bottled, heavily sherried Mortlach are nearly gone. But there may still be time. If you are a fan of sherry forward malts (Macallan, Aberlour, Glendronach, etc.) and you see something like this Mortlach at a reasonable price then grab one. They rarely disappoint.
Rating: Must Buy

Big Peat Christmas 2011

Big Peat Small Batch Islay Blended Malt Scotch Whisky
Christmas Edition 2011

53.4% ABV
$75

What the Blender Says
Big Peat is as grumpy as ever, regardless of his jovial Santa hat. Perhaps he didn’t like his signature yellow polo-neck being swapped for a red one? In 2011, Big Peat Christmas was bottled at 53.4% – natural cask strength – and his festive bottling has been bottled at cask strength ever since.

Nose: Opens a bit feistier, nose prickling and peppery at high strength plus the classic fresh, salty and clean Big Peat style. It then, as it warms, softens to malted barley dried over peat – with that same damp earthy character, anticipated from the “regular” bottling.

Palate: Considerably more mouthcoating at high strength, it still carries BP’s recognisable ashes, warm tar, sweet Japanese style seaweed, bandages, beaches and smoking chimneys.

Finish: Long and lingering, it replicates the palate with salty liquorice, smoke, damp bonfire ashes, chimney soot and more tarry, peaty and phenolic characteristics that just run and run. Full of what the French call “chauf couer” at high strength – detect even more of the damp ashes when cut with water.

What Gary Says
Nose: Sweet, bright, peat, medicinal, seaweed, earthy/ boggy, salty sea air, oily with a hint of smoked fish.
Palate: Peaty sweetness than POW – sharp peppery bite that blots out all but the peat.
Finish: Moderately long, peppery and drying .
Comments: I’m a fan of Islay whisky – Laphroaig being the first Scotch I really loved. The nose on this is amazing – almost everything I love about Islay whiskey (if it had a bit more smoke, might be perfect!), but the palate disappointed. After the initial peaty sweetness, the sharpness and pepper bite took over and really muted all but the peat. While not off putting, it was less satisfying than the nose by a fair amount.
Rating: Stands Out

What Richard Says
Nose: Big and briny. A peat campfire with slow roasted sausages on the spit.
Palate: At first is comes over as creamy and almost delicate caramel sweet. Then POW! Big notes of wood ash, peat smoke, and smoked fish.
Finish: Salty with light white pepper and kiln dried wood.
Comments: Oh you want peat? This brings the peat. This is a massive smokey whisky. Yet it still balances well. A great cold weather dram when sitting by the fire or enjoying a robust cigar.
Rating: Stands Out

Stolen Whiskey

Stolen Whiskey Aged 11 Years
46% ABV
$49.99
Website

What the Bottler Says
STOLEN American Whiskey begins with a mature 11-year-old whiskey. Ever insatiable, STOLEN tapped into industry experts by adding a layer of artistry rooted in extracting staves from ex-whiskey barrels and toasting them in a 360-degree rotation over an oak wood fire. Turning the staves at key points during the toast allowed STOLEN to capture richly nuanced flavors across the entire wood gradient, resulting in a smoky consistency for every barrel stave.

To impart these fire roasted notes into the whiskey, STOLEN employs a secondary, barrel-finishing process where “the juice” is continually analyzed for taste and nosed for aroma until it peaks in boldness resulting in an additional layer of finished flavor complexity that differentiates STOLEN Whiskey from other traditional American whiskies and bourbons. On the nose is a roasted coffee bouquet that enhances dark fruits and lingers through an exceptionally long finish. On the palate, natural flavors of toasted caramel, dark molasses and smoky chocolate mingle. STOLEN Whiskey’s initial buttery mouthfeel ultimately balances out a bold and lasting finish. For a list of recipes, check out our Cocktails.

What Gary Says
Nose: Oak, smoke, char, burnt sugar, alcohol, solvent, tobacco.
Palate: Smoke, oak, subtle sweet brown sugar.
Finish: Moderate in length, drying and peppery.
Comments: Important to note that this isn’t bourbon (so don’t expect that). It isn’t labeled as “straight whiskey” either, despite having an age statement beyond 2 yrs (which could mean a few things, but likely that there are additives). Nothing wrong with all that (Early Times is an example of non-straight whiskey), but it should be clear to align expectations. This isn’t in my wheelhouse. Smoke and oak, and not much else. The nose had a tinge of solvent or cleaner that I didn’t care for, which thankfully wasn’t on the palate. I expect less in terms of flavor and complexity from ‘just whiskey’, and this fell into that squarely – although I think the 11 yr age statement set me up to expect more than I got. Just too one dimensional for me (even at a heck of a lot less money).
Rating: Pass

Glenrothes 1985

The Glenrothes Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Distilled in 1985, Bottled in 2005

43% ABV
$120
Website

What the Distillery Says
Talk about bounce-backability. We first released the 1985 Vintage in 1997. It was popular then for its aromatic spicyness. Our master blender, John Ramsay, has now agreed that the last remaining drops of this Vintage be vatted and bottled for the latest version of this great Vintage. The memories of the previous bottling are present but the benefit of additional years has increased the complexity and perhaps delicacy of this deliciously oaky-honeyed dram. From an afternoon dram this has turned into an evening delight. A classic to accompany many puddings and thereafter.

Appearance: Golden, clear and bright.
Bouquet: Rich, fruity, raisins and sultanas
Palate: Soft, smooth, oak, vanilla and sultanas.
Finish: Good length, medium sweet finish.

What Richard Says
Nose: Fresh cut grass, orange peel, lemon zest, and malt.
Palate: Surprisingly rich and creamy given the 86 proof. There is a great interplay between a vanilla, raisin, and poached pear sweetness and an oak/pepper spiciness.
Finish: Long with heaps of malt, pepper spice, dark chocolate, and grassy notes.
Comments: This is a fine example of a 20ish year old Speysider. It drinks easy and is very enjoyable. It’s not really a stunner but a fine dram all the same. Buy a glass and you won’t be disappointed but a whole bottle might be hit or miss for some.
Rating: Stands Out

Glenrothes 1998

The Glenrothes Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Distilled in 1998, Bottled in 2010

43% ABV
$80
Website

What the Distillery Says
The Vintage 1998 is the next Core Vintage to follow the Vintage 1991 and 1994. It is the first of the vintages that we have bottled that was expressly laid down at origin to be bottled as Glenrothes on maturity and as such has a greater availability of stock than any of the previous bottlings.

This is also Gordon Motion’s first bottling as Malt Master and he describes it as: “It’s said that pictures speak a thousand words and this is like Carmen Miranda’s hat in a bottle. Tropical fruits lead with pineapple and mango developing into sweet bananas, coconut and classic Glenrothes vanilla pods.”

Appearance: Medium golden, clear and bright
Bouquet: Rich, spicy vanilla, golden syrup and lemongrass
Palate: Soft, mature, sweet vanilla with a hint of cinnamon
Finish: Smooth, long, rich vanilla

What Richard Says
Nose: The nose mixes sherry, citrus pith, malted cereals, and ginger syrup.
Palate: Vanilla and cinnamon forward with notes of vanilla pudding, cinnamon rolls, Bananas Foster, and yellow cake batter.
Finish: Dry, almost arid.
Comments: What a great dessert scotch. Not with dessert but rather for dessert. There are so many layers of sweetness here. Unfortunately, that makes this vintage a bit of a one trick pony. Not bad at all but it lacks depth.
Rating: Stands Out