Speyside

Advent Day 6: Glenfiddich XX

Day 6 of Advent brings another curiosity that has peaked my interest but I had to experience…

Glenfiddich Experimental Series Project XX Single Malt Scotch Whisky
47% ABV
$65
Website

What the Distillery Says
Our second experiment of the series took place privately at our Conval warehouse. Shrouded in secrecy, malt Master Brian Kinsman invited 20 whisky experts from around the world to select any expression of their choosing from the thousands of stacked casks. The final 20 chosen malts, matured in everything from port pipes to virgin bourbon barrels, have created an unusual, innovative and unexpected whisky, one that has exceeded even our expectations.

20 of the whisky industry’s most exceptional minds came together to create this truly unique, pioneering single malt expression.

With its deep golden hue, Project XX embodies the warm, fruity character of a classic Glenfiddich whisky with hints of apple blossom, summer fruits and ripe pear. But its multiple personalities are revealed with hints of sweet candyfloss, cinnamon spice, almonds and rich port tannins with the odd whisper of liquorice. Deep and mellow, the finish is long lasting with a lingering sweet oakiness.

What Richard Says
Nose: Sweet barley wine, under ripe crisp green apples, and wet pine needles.
Palate: Cotton candy sweet, cinnamon Red Hots, and vanilla malted milkshake.
Finish: Black pepper and heavy cinnamon spice with a linger nutty and malty character.
Comments: This is a dram for those with a sweet tooth. While this is enjoyable, it doesn’t quite meld together as well as I would hope. This is nice and easy drink but it isn’t something that I would come back to very often. It is more of a curiosity rather than something you should seek out.
Rating: Stands Out

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Advent Day 1: Glenfarclas 25 Year

Day one of my new Whisky Advent Calendar and BOOM! Glenfarclas 25 Year comes roaring out of the gate…

Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky Aged 25 Years
43% ABV
$170
Website

What the Distillery Says
Colour: Amber with dark gold highlights.
Nose: Complex, yet refined, with tempting aromas of marmalade, honey, freshly ground coffee, sherry and nuts. Some oaky tannins.
Flavour: Full-bodied and robust, the sherry and the oak fight for your attention yet neither overpowering.
Finish: Intense, long lasting, dry and malty. Beautiful dark chocolate taste at the back of your mouth to complete the 25 years old.

What Richard Says
Nose: Rich, deep, and refined sherry character with just a little bit of oak and tannins in the back.
Palate: Creamed honey, lighter sherry than the nose would foretell, oak, and a pinch of cracked pepper.
Finish: Lots of lingering cocoa powder and oak.
Comments: This is a lovely example of an older sherried single malt. Glenfarclas also seems to be priced rather attractively for a 25 year old. However, this particular malt is a little less complex than I would expect or hope for. Oak, tannins, and sherry are the predominate notes (understandably) but I’m not getting much else. Even still, this is a very nice dram and one you should consider trying, given the opportunity.
Rating: Stands Out

(Gary reviewed this whiskey later here)

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Craigellachie 17 Year

Craigellachie Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky Aged 17 Years
46% ABV
$150
Website

What the Distillery Says
Smooth and mellow, the aroma opens with vanilla and rich, silky notes of exotic fruits with a hint of smoky liquorice.

To the taste this 17 year old Craigellachie delivers a smooth, sweet palate, with a smoky, lingering finish.

What Gary Says
Nose: Thick, rich and soft, malty dark fruit with raisins and figs over sea brine; hint of smoke and anise.
Palate: Mouthfeel is a tad thin, subtle dried fruit sweetness with a bit of pepper spice.
Finish: Moderately long and drying, bit peppery near the end.
Comments: When I nosed this pour, it brought back fond memories of my trip to Scotland and specifically the afternoon I spent aimlessly wandering around the River Spey. This nose is a really nice example of what I imagine when someone says Speyside. The palate on the other hand I found left me wanting. Nothing off-putting about it, but if the nose was listening to the Scottish bag-pipes with the knob turned to 8, the palate felt like someone turned the volume way down. For me, it was beyond subtle to the point where I just missed it.
Rating: Average

What Richard Says
Nose: Thick and meaty with lots of raked wet leaves, vanilla incense, and black licorice.
Palate: Rich and deliciously sweet. Honey Nut Cheerios, vanilla cream filling, and a deep balancing “green” flavor.
Finish: The finish is very grain forward and of medium length.
Comments: Yes please! On my recent trip to Scotland we stayed in the town of Craigellachie. And even though we did quite a bit of whisky tourism, I never actually made it to the so named distillery. However, I did sample many lovely expressions of their malt at the bars and pubs in the area. Each was delicious. This bottling is no different. Dave Broom describes the paradox of Craigellachie as muscly and sweet. Very true words. I highly recommend trying this great malt, which until recently was relegated by it’s owner to being just a blend component. I can live with a few less bottles of Dewars in we can see this malt sing on its own.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Dewars for sending us a sample to review.

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Mortlach 16 Year (K&L Wine)

Mortlach Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Distilled 1998
The Signatory Vintage Un-Chillfiltered Collection

$100
55.8% ABV
Website

What the Bottler Says
Can we keep the Mortlach momentum rolling? It seems that ever since we released that amazing sherry butt of Mortlach from Chieftain’s all those years ago, we’ve been riding a wave of Mortlach enthusiasm for the sherry-aged Speyside beast. Diageo even released their own single malt version (maybe we had something to do with that, eh?) We’re always on the lookout for more Mortlach, especially sherry-aged barrels, and it turns out that Signatory had a sherry-finished butt sitting in their Pitlochry location just there for the taking. The first sip is all you need to get excited: lots of gingerbread, cinnamon, holiday cookie goodness just explodes on the palate, with cakey, sherry flavor rounding out the back end. At full proof, it’s as much of a beast as ever. But the fact that this cask was simply finished in sherry, rather than aged in the sweet wine from day one, is a big benefit. The maltiness of the whisky is still there at the core and the finish still sings of whisky

What Richard Says
Nose: Spicy and fruity. Allspice, sage, cinnamon, vanilla, nectarines, and dried apricots.
Palate: Rich and mouth coating with a terrific sweetness. Cigar humidors, more dried apricots, cinnamon candies, high cacao dark chocolates, and a big smack of sherry.
Finish: A nice woodiness with hints of graphite and cinnamon. When everything else fades you’re left with dark chocolate cocoa powder.
Comments: This beasts needs the water. Even for those, like myself, that regularly indulge in the 52-58% cask strength dram this one needs a few splashes or it comes out too hot. Delicious, but too hot. You’ll only be tasting the first dram otherwise. Sadly, this barrel is all sold out. With Diageo releasing their own ridiculously overpriced proprietary bottlings of Mortlach I’m sure the glory days of independently bottled, heavily sherried Mortlach are nearly gone. But there may still be time. If you are a fan of sherry forward malts (Macallan, Aberlour, Glendronach, etc.) and you see something like this Mortlach at a reasonable price then grab one. They rarely disappoint.
Rating: Must Buy

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Glenrothes 1985

The Glenrothes Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Distilled in 1985, Bottled in 2005

43% ABV
$120
Website

What the Distillery Says
Talk about bounce-backability. We first released the 1985 Vintage in 1997. It was popular then for its aromatic spicyness. Our master blender, John Ramsay, has now agreed that the last remaining drops of this Vintage be vatted and bottled for the latest version of this great Vintage. The memories of the previous bottling are present but the benefit of additional years has increased the complexity and perhaps delicacy of this deliciously oaky-honeyed dram. From an afternoon dram this has turned into an evening delight. A classic to accompany many puddings and thereafter.

Appearance: Golden, clear and bright.
Bouquet: Rich, fruity, raisins and sultanas
Palate: Soft, smooth, oak, vanilla and sultanas.
Finish: Good length, medium sweet finish.

What Richard Says
Nose: Fresh cut grass, orange peel, lemon zest, and malt.
Palate: Surprisingly rich and creamy given the 86 proof. There is a great interplay between a vanilla, raisin, and poached pear sweetness and an oak/pepper spiciness.
Finish: Long with heaps of malt, pepper spice, dark chocolate, and grassy notes.
Comments: This is a fine example of a 20ish year old Speysider. It drinks easy and is very enjoyable. It’s not really a stunner but a fine dram all the same. Buy a glass and you won’t be disappointed but a whole bottle might be hit or miss for some.
Rating: Stands Out

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