Other Whisk(e)ys

Bunker Boys

As you might guess, I frequent a lot of discussions about whiskey both online and in person. One thing that always struck me as old is people who “bunker” large numbers of the same bottle. What is bunkering you ask? It’s when you buy more than one bottle of a given whiskey and store it instead of drinking it. People do this for many reasons.

I can understand that if you REALLY like this year’s 2000 vintage Evan Williams single barrel that you might buy another bottle because the whiskey is different every year. What I don’t get are people who go into their local store as soon as the truck delivers the year’s Buffalo Trace Antique Collection and buying every bottle they can carry. Again, people do this for many reasons. However, I find none of them acceptable. Let’s look at them in turn:

1. “I bought all six bottles of George T. Stagg that were allocated to my local store because I love it and it’s my favorite.”

Fine, I get that you like it…alot. But what about all the other great whiskeys out there that you may be missing out on while you drink nothing but Stagg for the next year?

2. “I bought all six bottles of George T. Stagg that were allocated to my local store because they are collectible and will increase in value.”

I know some whiskey collectors. Personally, I’m not a fan of the practice because whiskey is intended to DRINK. It’s not intended to store away from the light of day hoping to cash in five to ten years down the road.

3. “I bought all six bottles of George T. Stagg that were allocated to my local store because I plan to trade them for other super spiffy whiskeys.”

Let’s say that in a perfect world such activities would be completely legal where you live (for the sake of argument) then why not save your cash and seek out those other bottles on your own? You could even put the money into some type of income earning vehicle and be better off when you got ready to make the purchase you really wanted.

4. “I bought all the bottles of the old bottling of Eagle Rare or Weller I could find because it isn’t made anymore.”

See my responses to 1, 2, and 3.

I’m sure there are a whole host of other reasons people bunker whiskey that I haven’t mentioned. However, what really steams my jeans about the whole process is that you’re keeping every bottle you can and you’re preventing others from discovering these great whiskeys. And you’re usually proud of it.

We here at Whisk(e)y Apostle are all about proselytizing the way of the malt. It says so at the top of the page. It’s kind of hard to tell somebody about a great whiskey they should try when you’ve bought all the damn bottles in the tri-county area. I think it’s selfish and kind of a dick move to be honest. Maybe I’m too handholdly-kumbaya about the whole thing. Yes, it’s a free market and you can buy whatever you want in whatever quantities you want but I just don’t think it’s right when it comes to whiskey. You don’t have to change your dastardly ways all at once. Go slow. Maybe this fall just buy five of those six bottles of Stagg and leave one for somebody else. You may not feel any different but the next guy who actually gets to try Stagg this year might have a really good week. Think about it.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

Bunker Boys Read More »

New U.S. Releases – June ’10

I’m trying to be a little more timely with these release summaries as I’ve been slacking off lately. I only heard about five new tipples this month but they all are very interesting.

Iowa Bourbon Whiskey
Timeframe: July 1st
ABV: ?
Price:?
Iowa Bourbon! Five years ago would you have ever thought of such a thing? This is coming to us from the Cedar Ridge Vineyards Winery & Distillery. It was distilled back in 2008 and the first 1,500 cases are being released this year. What’s even cooler is that they are going to use their own used barrels and make a scotch-style single malt to be called Cedar Ridge Single Malt Whiskey in 2011.

George Washington Rye Whiskey
Timeframe: July 1st
ABV: ?
Price: $85/375ml
This was some of the first whiskey made at the reconstructed distillery in Mount Vernon. It was recreated from President Washington’s original recipe found in the archives at Mount Vernon. It was distilled in 2009 and ready for sale next month but only at the distillery.

The Arran Malt, Anniversary Bottling
Timeframe: June 29th release, no word on when it will show up on our shores
ABV: ?
Price: Around $80
This is some of the original malt distilled back in 1999 that was finished for the last two years in Amontillado Sherry Casks. It is being released to mark the 15th anniversary of the distillery.

Glen Breton 15 Year Old “Battle of the Glen” Canadian Single Malt Whisky
Timeframe: ?
ABV: 43%
Price: ?
You have got to love the sense of humor of these guys. They are releasing this special bottling to celebrate their victory in the Canadian Supreme Court against the SWA’s draconian naming laws. For those that don’t know the SWA tried to force the distillery not to use the name because they thought if it said “Glen Breton Canadian” everyone would automatically assume it’s scotch. Congratulations on the victory guys and I can’t wait to try the celebration dram.

The Kilbeggan Reserve Malt
Timeframe:?
ABV: 40%
Price: ?
This is a truely special dram. Just for the simple fact that it is the first whiskey distilled at Kilbeggan in 53 years. It’s a three year old matured in quarter casks by Cooley at the recommissioned Kilbeggan distillery. That gives Cooley two working distilleries now. Kudos for their hand in the resurgence of Irish Whiskey!

Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old Irish Whiskey
It’s not new. It’s the same Knappogue but they are doing away with their vintage releases in favor of a standard 12 Year Old.

That’s it for June. Please let me know if I missed anything that you may have heard of.

By the way, I just wanted to remind folks that these release summaries are for U.S. releases. There are plenty of things that are coming out for travel retail or overseas only that don’t make it on the list. I don’t include them deliberately because it used to frustrate the hell out of me to hear about great new whiskey and then find out that I can’t get it.

And as a reminder…Maker’s 46 should be in your local liquor stores around the middle of July!

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

New U.S. Releases – June ’10 Read More »

Did You Know #3: Coming of Age

It’s been a while since I did a “Did You Know” piece and it’s long over due. So here’s today’s question..

Did you know that the age statement on your bottle indicates the youngest whiskey in the bottle?

Go ahead, run over to the liquor cabinet and look. Is there an age statement on the bottle? What did you think that number meant? According to Chivas, the vast majority of whiskey drinkers have no idea. Their research has shown that while many people think that number is important, few really understand what it means. For those that aren’t sure, the age statement on a bottle of bourbon, scotch, irish, japanese, etc whisk(e)y reflects the age of the youngest spirit in the bottle. That goes for single malts, blends, small batch, single barrel, etc. That means that in a bottle of 12 year old Macallan there could be a number of whiskies that are much older. Distilleries use older stocks to round out the flavor and consistency of younger bottlings. Maybe the 1997 Macallan vintage didn’t taste quite like the 1996 so they added a little 14 year old to the mix for consistency. Apparently, we human creatures like consistency in what we consume. It’s comforting I guess.

Why am I bringing this up today? Well, Chivas is sending around a notice of a new campaign they are launching to bring awareness to the popular misconceptions about age statements and what they mean. We Whisk(e)y Apostles are always in favor of more consumer education. Here’s a copy of the press release.

THE AGE MATTERS
Chivas Brothers launches global consumer campaign
on the importance of Scotch whisky age statements

The world’s leading producer of luxury Scotch whisky, Chivas Brothers, is launching a global campaign to advocate the importance and value of the age statements to consumers.

According to new research commissioned by Chivas Brothers, 94% of consumers believe the age statement serves as an indicator of quality, 93% believe that older whiskies are better quality and 89% actively look for an age statement when making a decision to purchase.

However, there is a global lack of knowledge about what the age statement actually means: only 10% understand that it refers to the youngest whisky in the bottle, nearly half (48%) believe an age statement refers to the average age and 35% believe it signifies the oldest whisky present. The Scotch Whisky Regulations (2009) make clear what an age statement means – the age of the youngest whisky in the bottle.

Chivas Brothers, Distiller of the Year 2009, is responding with a campaign called The Age Matters, which will manifest itself through stand-alone activity as well as through integration across the company’s aged whisky portfolio, which includes the Ballantine’s, Chivas Regal, The Glenlivet, and Royal Salute brands.

The aim of the campaign is to enable consumers to understand fully the age statement and to appreciate the value of the premium product they are purchasing.

One of the greatest influences on the flavour of whisky comes from maturation. Much of the complexity of Scotch whisky comes mainly from its time in oak casks in Scotland; with outstanding spirit and excellent wood management, it follows that the longer the maturation period, the more complex the whisky.

From 1 July 2010, consumers will be encouraged to look for age statements on Scotch whisky, via point-of-sale materials, advertising and public relations. A logo using the language Guaranteed Age Whisky has been created for usage in retail, and will be visible in the environment of Chivas Brothers brands that carry an age statement.

Christian Porta, Chairman and CEO of Chivas Brothers Limited, says: “The revelation that so many existing whisky drinkers do not understand that the age statement refers to youngest age of the whisky, shows that there is an opportunity for us to inform them.

“In an age when consumers of luxury goods increasingly demand transparency and authenticity from brands, it is vital that we empower consumers with knowledge, so that they fully understand the value of what they are buying.”

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

Did You Know #3: Coming of Age Read More »

Seagram’s 7 Crown American Whiskey

I’ve been sitting on this review for a while going back to our Gateway Series of reviews. I was waiting to see if Matt would try this one too but he’s on vacation so I’m going to publish it anyway.

In all seriousness, it was a post on about American Blended Whiskey that reminded of this old review so here it goes…

Seagram’s 7 Crown American Whiskey
40% ABV/80 Proof
$10 to $15
Available Everywhere

What the Distillery Says:

I actually couldn’t find anything.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Honey and ripe fruit. Oranges and nuts. Not an altogether unpleasant nose.
Palate: Candied rubber? Very antiseptic and spicy. Not something to drink neat.
Finish: Very hot and rough finish. Not smooth in the least.
Comments: Okay, Seagram’s isn’t exactly suggesting this be drunk straight like a fine bourbon. It’s a cheap mixer and tastes as such. It’s a very odd bastard child of something bourbon-like and something Canadian.
Rating: I’ll Pass (so bad that I’m adding another rating to our system)

Seagram’s 7 Crown American Whiskey Read More »

Whiskies of the World Unite

Distilleries all over the world use Scotland as a touchstone for quality.  For this reason, the techniques of production vary little from country to country.  So why does the whisky vary so greatly?  In my last blog, I rambled on about yeast and barley and how much that can affect the flavor of whisky (specifically single malt).  However, we know that it’s a myriad of elements that come together to create unique flavor profiles.

Just a week ago, I guided a tasting that unintentionally lead to a personal study on the effects of local ingredients, environment and wood management.  My tasting menu would take us around the world and open my eyes to an even greater appreciation for the whisky I hold so dear.

We started with a standard Talisker 10yo for a basis of comparison.  I chose Talisker because it exhibits many qualities associated with Scotch whisky; brine, peat, fruit, malt.  Talisker is complex yet quite approachable.  For this reason, it’s one of my favorite drams in general and is great teaching dram.

We started our tour with Reisetbauer 7yo from Austria.  Reisetbauer is definitely the most unique whisky from the tasting menu.  For this reason, prudence would suggest putting it toward the end of the tasting.  However, it was the lowest ABV (40%) of the bunch and I was afraid the subtleties of the dram would get lost after tasting stronger whiskies.  What makes Reisetbauer so unique is the strict adherence to local products.  The barley, water and yeast are all local, of course, but even the barrels used for maturation are locally sourced.  No bourbon or sherry casks here.  For maturation, Reisetbauer uses Austrian Chardonnay and Trockenbeerenauslese barrels.  I’m not a wine guy, but I know Chardonnay (not a fan).  I had to look up Trockenbeerenauslese.  This mouthful of a wine is produced using grapes that were left to dry on the vine.  Essentially, it’s raisin wine.

The nose on Reisetbauer is somewhere between spoilt Chardonnay, dirty feet and baby diarrhea.  There are notes of sweetness and sourness that are equally unappealing to my nose.  Everyone noted the distinct scent; some liked it for some of the more herbal elements, others were more to my frame of thinking.

If you did not know what kind of barrels were used for maturation.  Your first sip would tell you all you need to know.  There was crisp fruitiness and dry oak from the Chardonnay and an undeniable flavor of sweet white raisins (sultanas). Underneath it all, lurked a distinct maltiness.  This whisky is really not my cup of tea, but I admire the uniqueness and complexity (and at a mere 7 years!).  If you can find Reisetbauer, give it try.  There is nothing else like it on the market.

Next, our journey brings us to the Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin, New Zealand.  The Milford (10yo) is some the last whisky to be bottled from this dead distillery.  We can’t even use the term “moth-balled” as the distillery was completely dismantled in 1999.  Of our world whiskies, the Milford most closely resembles Scotch whisky.  The climate conditions of Willowbank (once the Southernmost distillery in the world) are very similar to the conditions of Northern Scotland and the water used comes from snowmelt that filters through peat marshes.  There is no specific reference to barrel selection, but I will guess bourbon barrels.  The Milford reminds me of a lightly peated Speysider.  It’s creamy and smooth with honeyed malt, oak, and light peat.  This was one of the crowd favorites.  Unfortunately, once it’s gone, it’s gone for good.  If you find it in your area, pick it up.

While we are in the South Pacific, we might as well head up to Japan and try some Yamazaki 12yo.  Richard and I did a review of this one not too long ago.  The Japanese are very true the Scottish tradition.  While environmental conditions and local ingredients may vary, Suntory takes it a step further by aging some of their whisky in Japanese oak barrels.  So, it’s easy to pick out the stranger in the room if you are tasting through a bunch of twelve year old Scotches and this one sneaks in.  In addition to the Japanese oak, some of the whisky ages in bourbon and sherry casks.  The cask variety gives an uncommon richness to this whisky (a richness that only grows with the older expressions).  Another group favorite, Yamazaki is probably the easiest whisky on the menu to find in stores.  All I can say is “More Japanese whisky, please.”

Next we jump all the way back to the UK; not to Scotland, not to Ireland, but to Wales.  Penderyn is the only whisky produced in Wales today.  On our menu, the Aur Cymru (Welsh Gold) expression.  Penderyn is situated in the Brecon Beacons, a beautiful area of Wales with low rolling mountains and plentiful clean water sources.  Of course, they use Welsh barley.  For the Aur Cymru expression, Penderyn first ages the whisky in barrels from Buffalo Trace and Evan Williams, then finishes the whisky in Madiera casks.  We did a Penderyn review here pretty recently too.  The nose and the palate are unique, with strong flavors of Starburst fruit chews.

While Reisetbauer was the most unique of our whiskies, Amrut comes in a close second.  Amrut Single Malt is produced in Bangalore, India using barley produced at the foot of the Himalayas.  Bangalore has some unique environmental conditions that really affect the flavor of the whisky.  Firstly, it’s 3000ft above sea level.  Secondly, the climate is tropical in temperature, but quite dry.  The heat and the altitude cause the whisky to interact with the wood very quickly (don’t expect to see a 20yo expression from Amrut).  There is no age statement, but I’ve heard that the whisky is about 2 ½ years old.  For our tasting, we had the Single Malt expression.  This expression uses 100% malted barley from India.   Amrut Single Malt is extremely sweet and malty.  It’s almost like drinking a really strong barley wine.  Personally, I prefer the Fusion expression that uses some Scottish peated barley as well.  The peat helps cut through the sticky sweetness.

Every once in a while, something happens to stoke the flames of my passion for whisky.  This tasting was one of those things.  I’ve been really excited since then; about barley and yeast, climate and wood management.  Most importantly, I’ve been excited about whisky (product and process).

I encourage you to get out and try these world whiskies (and any others you can find). You may find a new favorite.  If nothing else, it will be a great education.

Drink well, drink responsibly.

-Matt

Whiskies of the World Unite Read More »