I had the pleasure of spending just over two weeks in Ireland in early August 2018. This was a father/son trip where we used a company (Trafalgar) that took care of everything. We added a few days to meet distant relatives – but this wasn’t specifically a whiskey-focused trip. Thankfully my old man is also a whiskey enthusiast, so we managed to squeeze in a couple distillery tours/tastings that I’ve shared. We also used our free time in various cities to sneak in some other whiskey themed stops.
Here are some of those highlights from trip.
This hidden gem was a block from our hotel. I spotted it while out for an early morning walk, and took note of the little sign off the lamppost: Jack Ryan Single Malt Irish Whiskey. I returned that evening and was not disappointed. I did try their own single malt (distilled by Cooley, aged 12 yrs) and it wasn’t in my wheelhouse, but not off-putting either. What really blew me away is the ambiance (although I think if I would have used that term in there, someone would have laughed me out of the pub). Just a very relaxed, easy going atmosphere. Met a chap named James who gave me some of the history, and while not perhaps a PC term – I thought he nailed the essence of this place when he said it was one of the “last but best old-man pubs around”. Good natured ribbing (note – asking to have Tennis put on when the World Cup Final is being televised might not earn you many friends; besides James), great service (when James noted that around the other side of the bar they had a more extensive whiskey selection, our bartender Anton was happy to have me come around their side to see for myself – and they were right!), and just a lot of fun. Enjoyed a few drams, and then a couple of pints of Guiness, and thought that if this place were a block or two from my house – I could easily picture that being a regular stop. Highly recommend if you’re in town (although if there’s a game at nearby Aviva Stadium, expect it to be hectic!) Better whiskey prices than other pubs in the area, and a top notch atmosphere.
We only had 40 minutes of “free time” in Belfast, and spent nearly all of it talking with Rob in one of the neatest whiskey shops I’d ever set foot it! It is more museum than shop (I believe he said they have more bottles NOT for sale than are for sale), but that was what I found so fascinating about it. I bought a 50mL of their own label, which was Bushmill’s distilled single malt aged 13 yrs in bourbon cask (again, wasn’t right in my wheelhouse, but nothing off-putting), and took a ton of pictures. They have ancient dusty bottles most had never heard of, and Rob was very well informed about any we asked about. They have one of the last remaining unopened bottles of Red Spot, a 15 yr Irish whiskey (of course in the “Not for Sale” case).
While Irish whiskey focused, there were some very rare bottles of scotch (although there was some connection with Ireland involved typically). We saw some shops with a greater “for sale” selection, but I think we had more fun in this shop than any others. I’d definitely check it out if in the area (and carve out more time!)
Ballybofey and Stranorlar
Most Memorable Pub: The Snug Bar (on Main St, next to the Kee’s Hotel).
We spent two nights in Stranolar, and the first we stuck with the pub in the Kee’s Hotel (which was also pretty decent; live entertainment both nights we were there which was appreciated!) The second we decided to pop next door after hearing someone mention a quiet little pub with a great atmosphere. We were early (like – first ones/only ones in the door), but weren’t disappointed. For a small pub, they had an extensive Irish whiskey collection (and a better than average collection of bourbon and scotch as well!), and had a printed drinks menu which made browsing easier. While they cater to the whiskey enthusiast, they had a fine selection of beer and other drinks for the masses. The bartender (who may also have been the owner) was well versed in whiskey, and a serious enthusiast himself. He shared some details of his personal collection which I’ll respect his privacy to not divulge here, but it was impressive. Most importantly, he was willing to sit and chat with patrons about our shared love of the amber spirit, which is all one can hope in a lovely setting such as that!
This is hardly a ‘hidden gem’. I mean – just Google ‘Killarney Whiskey’ and their “Irish Whiskey Experience” web page is the first result – and for good reason. We didn’t have time to experience that unfortunately, but their on-line whiskey menu floored me! Pappy, BTAC, and the various American limited editions that are near impossible to get today were available, and at prices that aren’t outrageous (one example – William Larue Weller was 22 euro for a 35.5 mL pour; I won’t quote local prices – but that’s damned reasonable!) I figured they were on the menu, but not behind the bar – but they were (we didn’t do a complete inventory, but here’s a snapshot my Dad took of that section).
If you’ve read about the distillery tours, you’re familiar with my quest to find a bottle and my criteria (if not, check those posts). I asked for a manager and explained what I was looking for in broad strokes. Frances went out of her way to bring me various options, including the details on each bottle. I ordered a pour of two, and while both were very nice, I didn’t absolutely love either one – so I thanked her for her help. We arrived early (about 5pm) and enjoyed an excellent meal before this. When we arrived, there were a couple of patrons in the bar area. When we left around 7pm, it was packed – every seat at the bar or every table was taken. I wish I had a day to spend, as they also offer different whiskey flights. While I didn’t find a bottle, I had a great time and would definitely return if in Killarney.
Sláinte!
Gary
