May 2021

Barrell American Vatted Malt

/ / Other Whisk(e)ys, Review / ,

Barrell American Vatted Malt Whiskey
Blend of American Single Malts

November 20, 2019 Batch

58.75% ABV
$80-$100
Website
Barrell American Vatted Malt

What the Blender Says

We partnered with small and large producers across the country to select whiskeys that express the full diversity of American terroir and style. The resulting blend is remarkable, and we are proud to be the first to showcase the growing category of American single malt in this way.

We chose the name “American Vatted Malt” as an homage to the old Scottish category of vatted malt, which was once the preferred nomenclature to describe a blended whisky made entirely from single malts. Today, the Scots refer to that style as blended malt, but affection for the term “vatted” lives on.

As a new category, American single malt producers are notoriously creative, looking to their local environment and regional traditions to create distinctive whiskeys. That meant the blend was a challenging one technically, as it asked us to bring together a plethora of unique components. Never before have we strived to balance the distinctive tang of Southwestern mesquite smoke with the sweet and creamy maltiness of malted barley, or contrast briny coastal peat with the warm vanilla character of toasted oak. The resulting blend is complex and multi-faceted, rewarding the drinker with unfolding layers of flavor.

This first release of American Vatted Malt was years in the making, as many of the components in the blend come from emerging distilleries that have never traded or sold bulk whiskey before. The physical and logistical work of sourcing and blending with a group of small, independent producers is neither easy nor short, but we believe it lays the groundwork for a new, exciting, and collaborative future. Some of our collaborators have asked to remain anonymous, but the core group of participants includes:

• Balcones Distillery, Waco, Texas
• Hamilton Distillers Del Bac, Tucson, Arizona
• MGP, Lawrenceburg, Indiana
• Harvest Distillery, Valatie, New York
• Santa Fe Distillery, Santa Fe, New Mexico
• Kings County Distillery, Brooklyn, New York

We look forward to continuing to work with this group of innovative whiskey producers while searching out new partners for future releases of Barrell Craft Spirits Vatted Malt. In addition to expanding our ever-growing portfolio of spirits, this new project is an important step in advancing our vision of the next chapter of whiskey in America.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Toffee, cocoa, barley malt, caramel, toasted oak, cedar, subtle coconut husk.
Palate:  Rich mouthfeel, caramel, black currants, dark chocolate, allspice, nutmeg, pepper with blackberry preserves.
Finish:  Moderately long, drying with pepper and toffee.
Comments:  A really lovely pour. As a fan of quality vatting/blending (thanks to Compass Box for helping me see the light!), I can appreciate when it is done well – and this is done really well. Not a surprise, as I’ve yet to try something from the folks at Barrell Craft Spirits that I thought was done poorly (hopefully not jinxing them!). American single malt is still a pretty small category here, and you shouldn’t confuse it with single malt scotch or you’re likely to be disappointed (not that it is of less quality, but it doesn’t taste similar). And as a small category, there are even fewer vatted malts like this. A unique take on a unique spirit, and knowing much of this is fairly new – I can’t wait to see what they release with more age!

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey

/ / Other Whisk(e)ys, Review /

Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey

46% ABV
$55-$75
Website
Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey

What the Distillery Says

In order for a spirit to be called Scotch Whiskey it must be a product of Scotland. Although Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey is proud to pay homage to its heritage, this whiskey is much more than just another peat-smoked whiskey from across the pond and wouldn’t want to be called Scotch even if it could be.

Like its Scottish single malt cousins, Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey is made entirely from malted barley, carefully distilled, and aged and finished in various oak casks to enhance the complex flavors inherent to true single malt whiskey. But there are key differences that set this remarkable spirit apart from its Scottish relatives.

While peat-smoked malt has always been a key ingredient in many well known Scotch whiskies, Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey’s wonderfully complex flavor profile benefits from a very different type of smoked malt utilized by no other distillery in the world. The result is a smooth, mellow, mysteriously balanced hint of smoky complexity unique to Santa Fe Spirits.

Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey’s unique barrel aging process also separates it from its low-altitude relatives. Santa Fe Spirits is located 7,000 feet above sea level in the high desert and utilizes a climate-controlled barrel warehouse with temperatures ranging from freezing cold to swelteringly hot, and humidities ranging from bone dry to unbelievably damp. A strict regimen of climate changes yields a spirit with amazing complexity unrivaled by more temperate warehouses.

Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey is the deliciously unique result of an Englishman moving to the desert of the Southwest, building a distillery, and hybridizing time-honored Scottish distilling techniques with the unique flavors and climate of his new home.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Smokey, barley malt with smoked bacon, earthy, mesquite BBQ potato chips.
Palate:  Sweet with chocolate, vanilla, black currants, cherries, honey, a bit of barbecue sauce and ash.
Finish:  Moderately long, drying with pepper, barbecue and an ashy note.
Comments:  Quite different from the others in this flight – the mesquite smoke is definitely unique, which is what I do like about these American single malts. My beef with a lot of ‘craft whiskey’ is when they try to put out products that are made very well at scale by others, and charge multiples for the experience (which often isn’t as good in my opinion). Unchartered waters like these is where I don’t mind paying for a unique experience. Hopefully we’ll see some with some age, and higher proof down the road.

Rating: Stands Out

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FEW Single Malt Whisky

/ / Other Whisk(e)ys, Review /

FEW Single Malt Whisky

46.5% ABV
$70
Website
FEW Single Malt Whisky

What the Distillery Says

ONE MALT TO RULE THEM ALL IN AND IN WHISKY BIND THEM.

HINTS OF SMOKED ALMOND AND HONEY ON THE NOSE. THE TEXTURE AND FLAVORS ARE REMINISCENT OF A PERFECTLY CRAFTED CAPPUCCINO, SEMI-SWEET CHOCOLATE WITH A SUBTLE SMOKE FROM CHERRY WOOD AND OAK. RESIDUAL FLAVORS OF BOURBON AND RYE ROUND OUT THIS SOFT SMOOTH DRAM.
100% MALTED BARLEY. SMOKED WITH CHERRY WOOD RATHER THAN PEAT. ONLY 500-600 BOTTLES RELEASED ANNUALLY WORLDWIDE.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Malt, exotic wood notes of sandalwood and cedar, cocoa, cherries, roasted corn and almonds.
Palate:  Rich mouthfeel, sweet with cherries and chocolate, bit of spice with apple and nutmeg.
Finish:  Moderately long with honey and cherries.
Comments:  I really like the funky wood notes on the nose – reminds me a bit of the aroma when you’re cutting different types of woods at a table saw. Not as complex as the Westward American Single Malt, but maybe more intense for what it does offer. I look to be in the minority with liking this one (saw several reviews where folks were left unimpressed or disappointed), but I like what I like. Similar struggles with the pricing on this, but if you’re a whiskey geek looking for different experiences, this does offer that (although contrary to what Arby’s might have you believe, different isn’t always good).

Rating: Stands Out

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Westward American Single Malt Whiskey

/ / Other Whisk(e)ys, Review /

Westward American Single Malt Whiskey

45% ABV
$70
Website
Westward American Single Malt Whiskey

What the Distillery Says

Single Malt, reimagined. Born of the unique culture, climate and abundant resources of the Northwest, this elevated American original demonstrates our craftsmanship and creativity. Our distinct, rich, and brazen American Single Malt — the pinnacle of whiskey. Created from locally malted barley, brewed with ale yeast for exceptional flavor, and matured to perfection in new, lightly charred American Oak barrels right here in Oregon, where our hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters are the ideal environment to raise a world class whiskey.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Barley malt, vanilla crème brûlée fresh from the oven, allspice, butterscotch, banana, apricot and walnuts.
Palate:  Rich mouthfeel, fruity with pears, peaches and bananas, cinnamon, honey, chili spice gives way to butterscotch and malted milk chocolate.
Finish:  Moderately long and damp, with honey and subtle spice notes.
Comments:  A nice dram that runs the gambit from fruity to spicy. Quite different from a ‘single malt’ Scotch for more reasons than I’ll try to list here. The more I tried this, the more I liked it (and I don’t mean in a single sitting). Initially I was less impressed, but the more time I spent with it – found it sneakily complex. Now the price point makes it tough, as there are plenty of whiskies at this price point I enjoy much more – but I’d look at it like being an early adopter of sorts. Part of the challenge is that there isn’t a huge distiller doing single malt at scale, so when you have smaller distilleries you’ll have more expensive whiskey. I haven’t bought much American single malt, but can see that changing in the future.

Rating: Stands Out

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Baker’s 7 Year Single Barrel Bourbon

/ / Bourbon, Review /

Baker’s 7 Year Single Barrel
Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Serial No. 000185720
Warehouse CL-O (or CL-D)
Date Barreled: 01-2011
Barrel Age: 8 Years, 6 Months

53.5% ABV
$60
Website
Bakers 7 yr Single Barrel
We would like to thank Beam Suntory and Multiply for sending us a sample to review.

What the Distillery Says

Every bottle, as unique as the man it’s named for
From still to rickhouse to bottle, a lot of things happen with Baker’s® Single Barrel Bourbon. Weather, length of aging and rickhouse placement all shape the distinct notes and flavors of each barrel. See how and where your bottle was born.

Taste the difference between floor 5, rack 17 & floor 7, rack 21
\No two barrels of Baker’s are the same. Each is as unique as the man the bourbon is named for. Each barrel sits in its own unique place throughout our rickhouses, patiently aging for a minimum of seven years to extract the notes of vanilla trapped within the charred oak.

And with Baker’s there’s no batching or mixing. Each bottle is filled from one singular barrel. Which means inside each bottle is a big, bold bourbon, full of tiny subtle details that change barrel to barrel.

Every family has a rebel. Ours is baker.
He may be soft-spoken, but Jim Beam’s grand-nephew marched to his own drum. In his heyday, Baker would show up for work at the Clermont distillery on his motorcycle, wearing a black leather jacket and his wide-brimmed hat. When this sixth-generation distiller retired, his cousin Booker Noe created Baker’s Bourbon in his honor, inspired by his passion for bourbon and maverick nature.

Pull up a glass
There’s no wrong way to drink Baker’s – whether it’s neat, on the rocks or in a cocktail, you’ll notice strong, traditional bourbon cues, like oak, caramel and vanilla. Bottled at 107 proof, the flavors inside each single barrel really shine through. This full-bodied bourbon really stands out in any cocktail.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Salted caramel, vanilla, charred oak, cocoa, bit of anise and clove.
Palate:  Caramel, vanilla, cinnamon, pepper, peanut brittle with a bit of honey, followed by anise.
Finish:  Moderate in length, drying with caramel and oak.
Comments:  I tried this sample side by side with an older Baker’s 7 yr Small Batch (bought in 2019). In late 2019 Beam Suntory announced the change for the Baker’s brand, shifting from a small batch to a single barrel (including a 7 year – same age as the former small batch; and a 13 year). I was a fan of Bakers, with the age and proof hitting my sweet spots (although I wouldn’t have turned my nose up at a barrel proof version!) so was curious how the single barrel variety fared. As a single barrel, there is more variation – and their website actually highlights this point since you can key in your barrel number to get the barrel details. As a geek, I really like that, although I would recommend they put some of those details on the bottle itself. They do give you the age and warehouse, but not the floor/rack on the label. If I’m in the store, having to plug each serial number into the web-site to see which floor and rack the barrel was at (as their site recommends) is more effort than most consumers are going to put into it. Adding those few details to the bottle would be a big plus, and frankly – I’d still go to the web-site when I got home for the other info. The sample I received incidentally was aged on Floor 5, Rack 47 for those keeping score at home. But back to the bourbon – I found the sample I received to be incredibly similar to the small batch, which isn’t a big surprise. That’s good, since I’ve been a fan of the other, but if you’re expecting the single barrel to be wildly different, you may be disappointed (or may not).

Rating: Stands Out

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