April 2020

Compass Box No Name Vol 1

/ / Review, Scottish Whisky /

Compass Box No Name Vol 1
Blended Malt Scotch Whisky

48.9% ABV
$130 – $150
Website
Compass Box No Name Vol 1

What the Blender Says

For this, our peatiest whisky yet, we have decided on No Name.
The idea for this limited edition was sparked by the discovery of a parcel of casks of mature, heavy-peated single malt whisky from a well-known distillery located along Pier Road, in the Southeast of the island of Islay.

This whisky was given NO NAME to let the whisky speak for itself. It is massive in terms of the intensity and complexity peatiness, but tempered with hints of fruit character and an underlying sweetness.

The recipe is primarily sourced from the Pier Road distillery. The tempering single malt is from the Islay distillery in Port Askaig, with its more elegant, restrained peaty malt whisky.

To add dimension, fruit character and an ethereal element, we have added a small portion of malt whisky from a much-loved distillery in the Northern Highlands village of Brora. We finished things off with just a touch of malt whisky finished in French oak, providing a lovely underlying sweetness and richness.

AVAILABILITY: Limited Edition release of 15,000 bottles worldwide. Bottled September 2017.

FLAVOUR DESCRIPTORS: A bonfire-like smokiness on the nose with a peatiness that is by turns tarry and medicinal with hints of autumn leaves. A powerful smokiness and peatiness follow, accented by hints of ripe cherries, plums and spice.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Peat fire on the coast with sea salt, smoked meat and dried seaweed, bit of tar, hints of vanilla and honey just under the smoke.
Palate:  Sweet with peat and medicinal notes, pepper spice bite that fades into tropical fruit, bit of crème brûlée with nutmeg dusting.
Finish:  Moderately long with smoke and subtle fruit notes.
Comments:  On the nose this is clearly Ardbeg, and made me think more of an independent bottling of Ardbeg than a blend of any sort.  With some time in the glass it opens up a bit more and unveils the complexity within. The palate is a bit of a roller coaster – starting sweet, then a bit of a harsh bite that then fads into more gentle spice notes. My first sip I wasn’t terribly impressed with – thought it was too much Ardbeg (which I enjoy), but letting it sit helped it more than most.  A few drops of water also really open it up.

Rating: Must Try

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Pinhook Rye’d On

/ / Review, Rye Whiskey /

Pinhook Rye’d On
Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey

48.5% ABV
$40
Website
Pinhook Rye'd On

What the Producer Says

Each year, Pinhook releases a new vintage of bourbons and ryes. Every expression is the best representation of our barrels at that moment in time, and dedicated to a promising young thoroughbred. Through a combination of careful barrel selection, blending in small batches, and meticulous proofing, each Pinhook vintage has a personality as unique as the horse on the label.

The 2020 flagship rye release is the inaugural expression of Pinhook using our proprietary mashbill. Developed, distilled and aged over 2 years at Castle & Key Distillery in Frankfort, KY, our latest rye was blended and proofed by Sean Josephs, our Master Taster.

Corn: 20
Rye: 60
Malted Barley: 20

This Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey brims with aromas of peach, spearmint, and cinnamon, which lead to a palate of cherry, toffee, and clove.

Non-Chill Filtered. Distilled and bottled by Castle & Key Distillery, Frankfort, KY. Aged more than 2 years.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Caramel corn with cinnamon, fresh mint, tangerines, notes of fennel; bit of water brings out a note of peach cobbler.
Palate:  Cherry cough drops with mint and orange, honey, cinnamon-pepper spice, hint of clove; bit of water dampens the cherry some along with the spice edge.
Finish:  Short to moderate in length with fading cinnamon.
Comments:  Having had the wonderful opportunity to tour Castle & Key distillery back in April 2017 (and again in April 2019 – what a difference two years made!), I was anxious to get my first taste of whiskey coming out of there. I happened to be in Tennessee in early March 2020 (as luck would have it, the day the WHO announced that COVID-19 was officially a pandemic) where this had just been released, and I immediately bought one. Not since Willett released their first 2 year rye whiskey was I that excited to buy a 2 year whiskey. I should have let that experience temper my expectations.
So – it’s not bad. In fact, there isn’t anything off-putting about it. But it’s a 2 year old spirit – and that shows.  It isn’t as minty as other ryes, and the cherry cough drop note is definitely unique.  But it also isn’t a $40 whiskey I’d buy again.  In fact I’ll likely set portions of this aside in sample bottles to revisit in the years to come against maturing stocks of the same mashbill – because that’s what whiskey-geeks do.

Rating: Average

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Laws Whiskey House San Luis Valley Straight Rye Whiskey Bonded 6 Years

/ / Review, Rye Whiskey /

Laws Whiskey House Bonded 6 Years
San Luis Valley Straight Rye Whiskey

50% ABV
$75
Website
LAWS Whiskey House Straight Rye Whiskey Bonded 6 yr
We would like to thank Laws Whiskey House and RadCraft for sending us a sample to review.

What the Distillery Says

Laws Whiskey House is a grain-to-glass distillery in Denver, Colorado that applies a “there are no shortcuts” philosophy to each batch of whiskey produced. Each batch is milled, cooked, fermented, distilled, and aged on-site, utilizing heirloom grains from family-owned Colorado farms. The practice of open air, on-grain fermentation captures the essence of Colorado’s terroir while the copper pot-column still produces a robust, grain-forward style of whiskey.

This expression hails from the San Luis Valley rye grain of a single season, shaped by us as the single distiller, then aged in our federally-bonded rack house for over six years.  Starting in April 2020, Bonded SLV Rye will be available in 15 states throughout 2020.

Tasting Notes: Sweet grass with honey and brine on the nose, cooling notes of wild mint and fennel, followed by deeper accents of sea salt, orange tee, and brown sugar on the palate. Finishes with a rich and buttery mouth feel accompanied by tobacco notes.

Mash Bill: 95% heirloom rye; 5% heirloom malted barley (all grown in Colorado)

Aged over six years in new, 53 gal, charred oak barrels

What Gary Says

Nose:  Thick with lemongrass, mint, heather, bit of sea air, raw honey, touch of oak, hint of brown sugar and green tea ice cream.
Palate:  Rich and viscous (borderline syrupy) mouthfeel, orange marmalade on rye toast, vanilla, brown sugar, cinnamon, pepper spice, touch of mint, barley malt, and a hint of clove.
Finish:  Fairly long, wet, and thickly lingering with malty spice notes.
Comments:  This has one of the best mouthfeels on a rye that I can recall – really thick and rich; just coats the tongue. Not as sharp on the palate for a high rye mashbill as you might expect, and the barley seems to have more of an influence than I’d expect.  I get a lot more malty notes.  In fact, if tasting blind, I might have thought this was an interesting blend of straight rye whiskey with a single malt scotch.  All that aside, this is just a delicious whiskey – and a very nice bottle too; quite hefty.

Rating: Must Try

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Barrell Rye Batch 003

/ / Review, Rye Whiskey / ,

Barrell Rye Batch 003

58.35% ABV
$90
Website
Barrell Rye batch 003
We would like to thank Barrell Craft Spirits and Ro-Bro Marketing & PR for sending us a sample to review.

What the Blender Says

Rye Batch 003 is a blend of rye whiskeys from Indiana, Poland, Tennessee and Canada, all with distinct personalities and varying ages. We started with Tennessee Rye barrels with caramel and dried fruit notes and added the Polish Rye for its nuttiness and mouthfeel. We then carefully layered in 13-year Canadian Rye to bring out earthy notes of grass, spearmint and apple. The Indiana Rye was the finishing touch to highlight the candied fruit and spiciness you expect from a rye.

  • A blend of straight Rye Whiskeys
  • Distilled and aged in Indiana, Tennessee, Poland, and Canada
  • Selection of 4 to 14-year-old barrels
  • Crafted and bottled in Kentucky
  • 116.7 proof cask strength bottling

FLAVOR NOTES
Cinnamon donuts lead into earthy notes of walnut, leather, and fallen leaves. Subtly fruity, with hints of white currant and honeydew melon peeking out over the classic rye spice of angelica, catnip and black licorice.

Neat
Appearance: A clear auburn with fiery orange highlights.
Nose: Sweet and earthy, like Indian pudding, halva, and shortbread. That theme is carried forward by corn sprouts, clay pots, honey, almonds, brown sugar and graphite weaving in and out. This is buoyed by bright and acidic kiwi, gooseberry, lemon curd and black cherry clafouti.
Palate: The high proof is tempered by rich peanut butter and a moderate sweetness that carries forward notes of molasses, coconut milk, and sweetened green tea. The relatively modest amount of tannin belies the oaky-driven flavors of pine resin, juniper berry, ginger and leather.
Finish: Holds the earthy theme, beginning with gentian, chewed cigar and mesquite smoke. As it grows gentler, some sweet cream and coconut take over and leave a lingering salty note.

With a splash of spring water
Aromatic spices are unleashed, showing cinnamon churros, mace, and cumin. A deep umami character slowly evolves, resembling red beans and button mushroom. As the alcohol is pushed back on the palate, dessert notes of carrot cake and hefeweizen rush forward before fading out to be replaced by black pepper on the finish.

What Gary Says

Nose:  Notes of pine with wintergreen mint, bit of caramel, orange and lemon with cinnamon, ginger, a hint of clove and freshly cracked pepper.
Palate:  Rich and warm with a creamy mouthfeel, fruit cake with bits of toffee and a cinnamon icing, citrus zest, subtle chocolate, clove, ginger, and a bit of pine.
Finish:  Long and drying, with an earthy and a tad savory chocolate orange note.
Comments:  This is a really delicious whiskey, with some unique notes I don’t see a lot of. Again, props to whomever does their tasting notes – I didn’t get all of that, but they really hit home on several notes (like molasses & sweetened green tea). I asked about how they approach purchasing barrels (this one in particular was intriguing to me, as I’d never had Polish rye that I can recall), and they explained that when purchasing barrels they look for barrels that have uniqueness and complexity, that can be used in a single barrel or a component to a product like this. They also do buy barrels with the intent to age further (so not just buying what is there and blending upon receipt). Another example of blending done really well.

Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

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