August 2016

Laphroaig PX Cask

Laphroaig Islay Single Malt Scotch Whiskey PX Cask Triple Matured
48% ABV
$95 (liter bottle)
Website
lrgob.non12
What the Distillery Says:
PX Cask is the first to enjoy maturation in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, widely referred to as “PX” casks. Pedro Ximenez sherry is known to be naturally sweet made from dried Pedro Ximenez grapes.

The three types of barrels used in the maturation each impart a subtly different character, from American oak to Quarter Cask to Pedro Ximenez sherry. The last maturation in the ex-PX Cask provides the rich, sweeter and full bodied notes which perfectly complement the peat-smoke tang of Laphroaig, creating an expression which needs to be appreciated over time to fully explore.

Currently only available in Travel Retail.

COLOUR: Antique Gold
NOSE: From the bottle there is a nice sherry aroma of sweet sultanas and raisins with a hint of sweet liquorice and only the slightest tang of peat. Adding a little water brings out the marzipan and almond aroma with a counterpoint of creamy nuts and lots of ripe fruits but again there’s only the slightest tang of peat smoke.
BODY: An intense and profound deepness
PALATE: Without water a massive explosion of peat fills the mouth with huge amounts of oakiness only just moderated by the sweeter heavy sherry flavour. Adding a touch of water only slightly moderates the massive peat reek which very slowly fades and just allows a little of the sweeter sherried flavours to come through although there is always that burst of peat smoke that dries the mouth.
FINISH: Concentrated peat and thick sherried oak with a deep dryness

What Gary Says:
Nose: Sherry, seaweed, peat, smoke, subtle medicinal notes, rich.
Palate: Silky mouthfeel, sherry sweet w/ trademark Laphroaig peat & sea-air saltiness, subtle spice with smoke.
Finish: Moderate, peppery and drying.
Comments: The sherry finishing really tamps down the medicinal band-aid notes typically found with Laphroaig’s standard bearer 10yr. It isn’t the beast of peat that I do enjoy, but if you are a fan of Laphroaig and also a fan of Scotch aged in sherry, I would consider this a “Must Try”. I really enjoy this intersection, and only wish it was more widely accessible.
Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

What Richard Says:
Nose: Stewed stone fruits, Band Aids, bits of anise, and the smell of a campfire the morning after a light rain.
Palate: A nice inviting sweetness greets you before smacking you hard in the mouth with peat smoke, black pepper, and a dry woody flavor.
Finish: All peat, pepper, and wood on the finish. I’m a little surprised at the woody nature given the relative young age.
Comments: I like my Laphroaig like I like my coffee. No finishing, flavored syrups, extra foam, or funkiness. I find the 10 year old cask strength to be the epitome of the distillery. The more they “do” to that wonderful liquid the more that I move away. Quarter Cask is nice, Triple Wood is pushing it, Select is kind of nasty. This PX falls somewhere between the Quarter Cask and Triple Wood on my scale. Why would I move over there when the Cask Strength 10 year old is so damn good?
Rating: Average

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Talisker Storm

Talisker Storm Single Malt Scotch Whisky
45.8% ABV
$35 to $85 (prices on this seem to swing wildly – $35 at Binny’s and $85 at Total Wine)
Website
Talisker Storm Single Malt Scotch Whisky
What the Distillery Says:
Talisker Storm offers the drinker Talisker’s full maritime majesty, all unfettered elemental power and confidence.

Appearance: Full gold.
Nose: Powerful, fresh-clean and growing in complexity like a gathering storm to reveal a sweet maltiness with ripe red berry fruit. Eventually well integrated mellow smoke drifts across the scene as a wild sea turns up briny, fresh clean notes, and an oily explosion of pepper.
Body: Medium.
Palate: At first mellow and rich in the mouth then quickly very spicy and increasingly stormy as the Talisker heat comes through. It’s as if the pure, tongue-coating sweetness joins hands with a deep nutty smokiness to embrace those spicier notes. The flavour is elegantly drawn out with a good balance between sweetness, smoke and salt, which is all the more evident when a little water is added.
Finish: Drier and of medium-length, with a lasting, smooth aftertaste, in which light peaty burnt embers can be found.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Brine forward with a salty earthy feel. It’s a lot more peaty than it is smokey. If you’ve ever smelled dried peat as opposed to peat smoke you will know what I mean.
Palate: Over ripe fruit sweetness pushes forward with a smokey back. The salty sea air and rich dark earthiness fill in the edges.
Finish: Saltines and campfire ashes.
Comments: A very nice dram. I enjoyed it quite a bit. Depending on where you find this in terms of price (note the wide range) it could either really be worth it ($35), of moderate interest ($60), or of only passing interest to the Talisker enthusiast ($85). I don’t think that this brings new dimensions or depth to the Talisker stable. I would probably try it at a bar before buying it at higher prices unless you just love everything Talisker puts out.
Rating: Stands Out

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Talisker 10 Year

Talisker Single Malt Scotch Whisky Aged 10 Years
45.8% ABV
$60
Website
talob.10yo
What the Distillery Says:
APPEARANCE Brilliant gold
NOSE Powerful peat-smoke with just a hint of sea-water saltiness, fresh oysters, and a citrus sweetness.
BODY Full.
PALATE A rich dried-fruit sweetness with clouds of smoke and strong barley-malt flavours, warming and intense. Peppery at the back of the mouth.
FINISH Huge, long, warming and peppery in the finish with an appetising sweetness.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Bright sweetness, stewed peaches and pears, subtle peat smoke with musty oak, sea air, cereal maltiness.
Palate: Creamy mouthfeel, honeyed sweetness with a hint of pears before a savory/ subtle pepper spice, pleasant earthiness, peat smoke.
Finish: Moderately long.
Comments: Very pleasant dram. Nicely balanced between sweet, smoke, earthy. Reminds me of the sea and the mountains, which I guess ultimately reminds me of Scotland. This dram has a bit of all that terroir (I’d say a bit of everything I love about Scotch, but the lack of sherry would make that an outright lie!) As I know smoke and peat might not appeal to everyone, I’m hesitant to say “Must Try”, but if you don’t really have a stance on that, or are just starting out with single malts – I would definitely encourage you give it a go!
Rating: Stands Out/Must Try

What Richard Says:
Nose: Rich, earthy, and smokey with a lovely sweetness in the background.
Palate: Smokey and slightly salty with a toffee like sweetness and malty backbone.
Finish: Pepper and brine linger as the other notes fade.
Comments: It sounds a bit pretentious but as the years progress I find it harder to find enjoyment in younger single malts. At 10 years old there are very few single malt scotches that I still enjoy. Talisker is one of those few. This is a delicious and robust malt that demands attention and offers layers of depth in return. As the price continues to climb in recent years it makes it harder to buy at 10 years but it is still very enjoyable.
Rating: Must Try

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From Whiskey Boom to McConaissance

On the heels of the Matthew McConaughey’s New York Times interview, Richard asked me if I wanted to write a “Whiskey Manifesto” for the site after being long absent from the public discourse. Richard is right when he says the interview is crap and the video is damn good. I don’t know if the interviewer came in with a predetermined agenda or an inherent dislike for Mr. McConaughey or if everybody’s cooler older brother really came off that douchey. Also, like Richard, I bristle a little bit at the ad agency doublespeak about “selling.” Whether you’re selling a product, a story, or an experience, you’re still selling. Whether you hire a carnival barker or an ad (wo)man, you’re still trying to move product.

Most of my adult life, I worked at a place whose primary focus was selling “brand experiences” (not what I did there, but that was their primary focus). I spent a lot of time sitting in meetings where Creative Directors and Strategists would spout the same rhetoric about authenticity and not being “sold to” about Boomers and GenXers as they are now saying about Millennials. These are not generational affectations, this a fundamental human condition. No one enjoys condescension and a good portion of the buying public is smart enough to understand when you are talking down to them (and often when you’re talking down to other demographics as well). Rarely did the word-salad-faux-Ted-talk strategy sessions churn out anything but pandering and recycled ideas. There were a few inspired moments, but they were depressingly far apart. On the few occasions where I fell within the target demographic (whiskey drinkers for instance), the strategy often showed a fundamental misunderstanding of the already imbedded culture within the demo. These misunderstandings often went all the up the chain to the multi-national beverage conglomerate that hired us in the first place. Where the New York Times article feels like the Wild Turkey campaign is falling into the same traps I’ve seen a thousand times, the video suggests a deeper understanding, not just for the brand, but for the culture of whiskey drinkers. There seems to be a concerted effort not to alienate the market that already exists in an effort to chase one that may never coalesce. There is a reverence for the spirit and the heritage of Wild Turkey that feels genuine.

I’m not angry about the assertion that Millennials are the target audience for this campaign. Honestly, it’s their time. Aging boomers and rising GenXers gave us the whiskey boom, the micro-distillation rage, and the innumerable whiskey blogs. In a way, it’s up to that peer group to continue momentum from the initial ground swell. The ad agencies missed us while they were busy boosting birthday cake vodka, cherry flavored everything, and “whiskey for women”. I’m more upset that they missed the point the first time around than I am to be skipped over now.

I suppose, so far, this is more of a whiskey in advertising diatribe without much to do with whiskey itself. I agree with a lot of what Richard has to say, so I’ll try to be brief. He points out that “We founded Whisk(e)y Apostle on the belief that there is a whiskey for everyone,” and I still mostly believe that. I have only met a few people that have not been able to find a whiskey they enjoy and I think it largely comes down to a lack of willingness to try something. They have a predetermined opinion about what whiskey is (often built on a bad experience with some rotgut brand or other) and they are not interested or willing to give it another chance. It’s also quite possible that I’m wrong. I have a hard time with that though. I love whiskey in many styles and countries of origin. I love some that don’t even taste like what I would call whiskey and some I hate for the very same reason. Strangely, it’s often those weirdos that help me pick up the stragglers waiting to join the whiskey parade. Whiskey is such a diverse class of spirits, it’s hard to believe that someone could write it off in its entirety. I guess, when you are incredibly passionate about something, it’s hard to understand why someone else can’t find the same joy. Maybe McConaughey says it best when he says in the video, “If we’re for you, you’ll know.” I knew whiskey was for me on my first sip, but that’s not everyone’s experience. I’m also innately curious. When I find something I like, I want to learn as much as I can about it, I want try every variety, and I want to share it with others. Even if I don’t like something all that much, I sometimes test it out more that your average person would just to make sure I don’t like it. Not everyone has my sense of curiosity or experimentation. And that’s okay. I’m willing to do the research/testing and share my findings.

I only halfway agree with Richard about whiskey not being an acquired taste though. He’s right that people find whiskey when it’s their time. However, that first sip of whiskey that speaks to you often opens the doors to other drams (some you may have even tried before and didn’t like). Personal tastes change, but so does our ability to parse out flavors, smells, and mouth feel. That’s how you acquire a taste for whiskey, not from dogged repetition, but from finding the one you already love and branching out from there. Some folks will never branch out. They’ll be Jim Beam or Wild Turkey drinkers all their life and never try Four Roses or Old Forester or Buffalo Trace. That’s who the advertisers want; the lifelong, brand-loyal, everyday drinker. That’s not what I’m about, that’s not what Whisk(e)y Apostle is about. We are looking to share a dram with curious folk (in all senses of the term) and folks with a sense of adventure. If that sounds like you, pull up a chair and settle in. It’s going to be a long and beautiful night.

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Glenlivet Founders Reserve

The Glenlivet Founders Reserve Single Malt Scotch Whisky
40% ABV
$45
Website
Glenlivet Founders
What the Distillery Says:
Inspired by our legendary founder George Smith, this whisky is an expression of both tradition and innovation.

Its creamy sweetness originates from the selective use of first-fill American oak casks, still so full of the Bourbon character their previous occupants left behind, and complemented by traditional oak casks. This sweetness contrasts wonderfully with the liveliness of zesty fruits, creating an expression that is worthy of its reserve status.

Colour: Pale gold
Nose: Citrus fruit, sweet orange
Palate: Zesty orange, pear, toffee apples
Finish: Long, creamy, smooth

There is a delicacy in the aroma that is infused with hints of citrus fruits, notably sweet orange. This sweet and fruity theme continues with notes of pears, zesty oranges and a hint of toffee apple, before a creamy, long and extremely smooth finish.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Grassy, citrus fresh, vanilla, and herbal throat lozenges.
Palate: Modestly sweet, grainy, and grassy but thin and uninspiring.
Finish: Malty fennel seed fading slow.
Comments: This latest No Age Statement line expansion by Glenlivet struggles to get traction in the line up. It’s very thin and doesn’t bring much to make you want to come back. It seems like a new Glenlivet to crush with soda if it wasn’t 50% more than the standard 12 year old. Skip the Founders Reserve and just get the 12 or 15 year olds.
Rating: Probably Pass

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