January 2015

Booker’s 25th Anniversary

Booker’s 25th Anniversary Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Batch 2014-01, Aged 10 Yrs 3 Mths

65.4% ABV
$100
Website
bookers
What the Distillery Says:
In honor of 25 years, Booker’s® Bourbon is giving bourbon enthusiasts a reason to celebrate with a limited edition release of an exclusive bottling that is the most unique liquid produced to date. Batch No. 2014-1 pays homage to its namesake, 6th Generation Beam Master Distiller, Booker Noe, who was a lot like his favorite bourbon: uncut, unfiltered and straight up.

To mark this occasion in bourbon history, Booker’s son, Beam Family’s 7th Generation Master Distiller and 2013 Bourbon Hall of Fame Inductee, Fred Noe, and Booker’s grandson, Freddie Noe, selected barrels that were aged longer than any Booker’s® Bourbon batch to-date – ensuring an exceptional, one-of-a-kind flavor to honor Booker and his legacy. The barrels were among the last that Booker laid down in the rack house before he passed away.

“One of Dad’s last requests for me was to take care of his Booker’s®, and we plan to do just that by sharing it with you all, which I know he would have done himself,” said Fred Noe. “This will be a special bottling for our loyal fans of Booker’s® – they have never ever had one that is going to taste like this particular batch.”

With a robust vanilla nose and wide range of flavors – from oak tannin to mocha notes – this exclusive and extremely limited batch has a deep taste with a smooth finish.

Booker’s® Bourbon, inspired by a 200-year-old family tradition, came to life when Booker Noe selected the first bottles of Booker’s® as holiday gifts for his friends and family. With its instant popularity within Noe’s close circle, Booker’s® Bourbon was soon after bottled and made available on shelves for everyone to enjoy. Twenty-five years later, Booker’s® Bourbon Batch No. 2014-1 is taken from the center-cut of Booker’s favorite rack house, bottled at its natural proof, uncut, unfiltered and extra aged to bring out the true flavor profile of this small batch bourbon.

Available in select markets now and nationally in early March, Booker’s® Bourbon Batch No.2014-1 comes inside a commemorative wooden case and was selected with the following characteristics:

  • Proof: 121 – 130
  • Age: 9 – 11 years
  • Nose: Vanilla
  • Finish: Long, smooth finish
  • Sipping Suggestions: With ice or cut with water

What Gary Says:
Nose: Very bold, benefits from some water which tones down the heat. Big oak monster, with cinnamon, vanilla and toffee. Some supporting citrusy notes. Even with water, the nose is sharp.
Palate: Thick mouthfeel even with water, and a sharp heat throughout; peppery baking spices, nutmeg, burnt bagels with a hint of anise and allspice.
Finish: Moderately long, with a pepper spice note that is dominant.
Comments: As a Booker’s fan, I was very much looking forward to this one. Short disclaimer – there likely is some variety from batch to batch, and I don’t know for certain which batch my sample came from. I had sampled this a couple of months ago and thought better of it than. I tried it over the course of several days, with similar impressions I’m presenting here. If you like Booker’s, this is what you would expect from 10 yr old Booker’s (more wood, bit sharper). Although for the price point (almost twice the price of a standard Booker’s), it might leave you disappointed.
Rating: Stands Out

What Richard Says:
Nose: This one comes out of the glass to get you. Pour it and walk away and you can smell it coming. Toffee, vanilla, churros, old worn and well oiled leather, and cured tobacco. If I were to make a bourbon cologne this would be it!
Palate: The nose can go with or without water but pass on adding water before drinking at your own risk. It drinks smoother than 130 proof but it’s still a scorcher. Even with water it’s viscous and aggressively spicy. The sweeter notes of the nose are less present here. More leather and tobacco but with heavier pepper, cinnamon, and wood char.
Finish: Not nearly as hot as I expected. There’s plenty of peppery notes and a dry wood but not overly so on either account. It fades nicely.
Comments: Wow, this one is a big bourbon monster! Booker’s fans will love it. Stagg fans will dig it too. If you are more partial to wheated bourbons then this may not be for you. It wears the rye like a flag flying off the back of a pickup truck. This is not for the faint of heart but it’s damn good bourbon. Tread lightly my friends.
Rating: Must Try

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Jim Beam Signature Finished with Rare Spanish Brandy

Jim Beam Signature Craft Bourbon Whiskey Finished with Rare Spanish Brandy
43% ABV
$30-35
Website
10157
What the Distillery Says:
A rich bourbon that is carefully aged, then finished with a touch of Rare Brandy to bring you lush, slightly sweet notes and hints of fruit.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Brandy is prominent, although you wouldn’t mistake it from bourbon for brandy; oak and cinnamon well represented, with some fruity undercurrents.
Palate: Dried apricots steeped in brandy, with vanilla and ginger. Soft and creamy mouthfeel at first. More wood than typical Jim Beam, but not loads of it. Fairly well balanced, although subtle all around
Finish: Medium to short, with just a bit of spice; slightly dry.
Comments: Important to note that this isn’t finished in a cask which held Spanish Brandy; this is finished WITH Spanish Brandy directly. Why is that important? Ok – I don’t really know, as I don’t have a bourbon finished in a Spanish Brandy cask to compare. The brandy presence is more than subtle, but it also isn’t over-done for me. The combination I find to be balanced nicely. My guess is that the bourbon was more than 4 yrs old, as I get more wood than I do in Jim Beam white label – but not a ton of wood. I would prefer to have tried this at a higher proof, as 86 proof Jim Beam just isn’t right in my wheelhouse, but for fans of Jim Beam who are looking to expand their horizons – this is a nice little jaunt, and is priced appropriately for something unique.
Rating: Stands Out

What Richard Says:
Nose: Beam cream? It’s got all the DNA of Jim Beam but there is a depth of creaminess to it that stands out. I’m curious about the type of fruit used in the brandy. It doesn’t give off the typical notes of grape brandy (cognac, etc.).
Palate: Now I’m getting the brandy. Much more sweet and fruity (dried pineapple pieces) in the mouth. Cinnamon, vanilla, and candied ginger.
Finish: Dry but not too woody with a little pepper on the back end.
Comments: This isn’t half bad. It’s probably my favorite of the first three Signature Craft U.S. releases. It drinks better than standard Beam and the brandy adds interesting complimentary pieces to the puzzle. I probably won’t buy a second bottle but I will enjoy the one I have.
Rating: Stands Out

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Jim Beam Signature Craft Quarter Cask

Jim Beam Signature Craft Quarter Cask Finished Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
43% ABV
$35-40
Website
jimbeamsignaturecraftquartercask-compressor
What the Distillery Says:
Introducing Jim Beam Signature Craft Quarter Cask. Base bourbon finished with a variety of fine quarter cask bourbons, all aged at least four years in smaller barrels. Boasting notes of vanilla, oak, and a hint of caramel, this spirit should be enjoyed neat or on the rocks.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Wood is forward while not overpowering; vanilla/caramel, with an odd pencil-eraser note.
Palate: Creamy, sweet, tapioca pudding and vanilla custard.
Finish: Short to medium length, and a tad on the dry side.
Comments: Who knows how much bourbon that was aged in quarter casks is in the mix, but as it seems that the goal of the Signature Craft series is to not venture too far from the Jim Beam path – I think they got it right. The nose was more woody than Jim Beam white label, but I didn’t get as much of that on the palate. It was plenty sweet, and had a nice mouthfeel. An interesting pour, and again – for fans of Jim Beam, probably worth the extra dough to try something you’re likely to enjoy while getting something a little different.
Rating: Stands Out

What Richard Says:
Nose: Caramelized bananas, cinnamon icing, sweet cornbread, and vanilla.
Palate: Hello woody. It does have a nice creamy corn pudding going on but that’s not what I look for in my bourbons.
Finish: It finishes hot and corny. It’s very much a young whiskey that absorbed too much oak.
Comments: Smaller barrels do not make better or faster whiskey. Done. Let’s move on. No need for folks to keep trying this. Really. I mean it. If this were $20 I would give it an average but at twice that price it’s an easy pass.
Rating: Probably Pass

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Jim Beam Signature Craft 12 Year Old

Jim Beam Signature Craft 12 Year Old Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey
43% ABV
$35-40
Website
297220
What the Distillery Says:
Introducing the Jim Beam Signature Craft 12 Year. Our hand crafted bourbon is made from the finest ingredients available to our master distillers, and carries notes of caramel, deep vanilla and oak. Never compromised, this spirit should be savored neat or on the rocks.

What Gary Says:
Nose: Musty oak with cinnamon and vanilla; a hint of grapefruit; sugar cookies.
Palate: Rich mouthfeel, with hints of barrel char. Caramel and black cherry in vanilla ice cream.
Finish: Medium to long, with a bit of a woody note but nice overall.
Comments: So far this has been my favorite of the Signature Craft Series by Jim Beam. I think 12 yrs old is right about the sweet spot for my palate where the wood isn’t overpowering. I would love to taste this at a higher proof, but that’s just me. Contrast this with other 12 yr old bourbons (like Elijah Craig 12 yr), and the wood influences seems muted by comparison, but I think it is well done.
Rating: Must Try

What Richard Says:
Nose: Cinnamon, stewed cherries, vanilla cream sauce, and tart citrus notes.
Palate: Underflavored? I guess that’s best way to describe it. The nose is very appetizing but in the mouth it’s kind of blah. Caramel and oak predominate.
Finish: Woody but also kind of blah.
Comments: This one is a bit of a downward spiral. The nose has so much promise, the palate less so, and the finish even less. It’s a clear step up from the Jim Beam White and Black labels but still not terribly impressive. At around $40 you might be able to find a bottle of Baker’s (also made by Beam) if you look hard enough. That would be a much better option.
Rating: Average

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Distillery Tour: Jim Beam

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Jim Beam is about as ubiquitous to bourbon as you can get. As the number one selling bourbon in the world (we won’t get into the whole Jack Daniel’s thing today) you can find it in the far reaching corners of the world. Even though you can find it almost anywhere, you might want to consider visiting where it’s made. Well, it’s actually made at two distilleries…one in Clermont, Kentucky and another in Boston, Kentucky but only the Clermont location is open for tours. This past April I made the trek to Clermont with some Georgia Bourbon Society pals to see what it was all about.

I’ve been to Jim Beam once before a number of years ago and the video and gift shop they had then was a distant and sad memory from what they have now. It’s referred to as the American Stillhouse and it is a great new facility. To get there you can either take I-65 north to Kentucky highway 245 south to Happy Hollow Road or from Bardstown, Kentucky take 245 north to Happy Hollow Road. Ten years ago when I was last there you could walk up, get in line, see the video, have a sip of bourbon and be on your way in about 30 minutes. Now, I would recommend booking a reservation in advance. There are two tours available at the moment. We took the standard Guided Tour which is $10 and that does not go towards any purchases in the gift shop. It’s about 75 minutes. There is also the VIP Super Premium Tour with Fred Noe for a modest $199 and that one lasts about six hours.

Once your tour begins you load up outside of the gift shop in a branded bus and head up to the distillery. The tour starts by walking you through the distilling process in the miniature experimental distillery they have set up in a smaller complex next to the main distillery. It’s been around for about two years. The tour guides are well spoken and surprisingly knowledgeable. They walk you through the history and legal designations of bourbon and what is required to make it while in the old water sourcing warehouse.

From there you head to the miniature cooker, fermentation tanks, and still to talk through grains, mashbills, and yeast. The standard mashbill for Jim beam, Old Crow, Knob Creek, Baker’s, and Booker’s is 76% corn, 13% rye and 10% barley. Their higher rye mashbill used for Old Grand Dad and Basil Hayden is 63% corn, 27% rye, and 10% barley. During the discussion of yeast our guide confirmed (multiple times) that they are now using the same yeast for all their whiskeys. In 1987 when National Distillers Group sold their spirits business to Fortune Brands Beam brought over the yeast National Distillers was using for the Old Grand Dad brand and mashbill. At what time that was converted to the standard Beam yeast strain for Old Grand Dad products has not been confirmed. I guess that kind of makes it “New” Grand Dad. 😉

In discussion of distillation it was also confirmed that the Boston plan makes exclusively product destined for Jim Beam White and the flavored Beam products. Everything else comes from the Clermont distillery along with the balance of the Jim Beam White destined distillate. For nearly all the Beam products the low wine comes off the still at 125 proof/62.5% ABV and off the second distillation at 135 proof/67.5% ABV for the high wines. From there it gets watered down to the legally required 125 proof for barreling. Booker’s is the exception. It is distilled at a higher temperature thus equaling a lower proof (more of the water evaporates with the alcohol at the higher temperature) and comes off the first distillation at 115 proof and the second distillation at 125 proof so that it can go straight into the barrel with no additional water.

Next they take you to the miniature filling station. A volunteer gets to fill a barrel surrounded by the barrel heads of all the commemorative barrels of bourbon made by Beam. After this it’s off to the full distillery.
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Down a walkway you head into the main still room. These babies are huge compared the little experimental stills you just saw. This is a high performance, high quality control operation. Through the mass of production noise you can see computer displays showing all the production metrics. It’s quite a sight but it’s so loud that you’re happy to soon head back out.
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The next area is for dumping. Knob Creek was on the dumping block when we came by. Everyone got a nice sniff and then we were ushered over to the bottling line. You now have the opportunity to hand bottle either a bottle of Knob Creek Single Barrel or Jim Beam White Single Barrel. The neat thing we found out is that the excess whiskey from the barrel (no barrel yields exact multiples of 750 mls) is used to wash these bottles so that there is no water or bourbon contaminating the Single Barrel bottles that didn’t come from that barrel.

The last stop in this area was the decanter room. It’s kind of neat to see all the different designs that have held Jim Beam over the years. Some of them are so ornate that you can barely imagine them actually holding bourbon.

Next we are off to the warehouse. Nothing to me smells as good as a whiskey warehouse. All that old whiskey slowly giving up shares to the angels makes for a delicious aroma. A few places where barrels are raised and dropped allow you the chance to look up vertically and see how many stories of whiskey are stacked in each warehouse. It’s impressive.
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After the warehouse you head to the tasting room. This is a cool set up. You get a pass card that is good for two pours from these drink machines that I’ve only seen at wine bars. You can choose your two pours from any of Beam’s regularly sold products (no Old Grand Dad, Old Overholt, or Old Crow). After your tastes you can head home or back to the gift shop.
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All manner of Jim Beam Brand paraphernalia can be had at the gift shop. If you’re looking for whiskey, they sell the range of Beam brands (again no Old Grand Dad, Old Overholt or Old Crow). If you want a gift shop exclusive you can get a bottle of Fred Noe’s select bourbon which is really just the seven year old white label. However, it’s got a different label and Fred selected it so that’s something. If you want to drop $200 you can get a Distiller’s Masterpiece is a sexy decanter finished in sherry casks.

I was really impressed with the new Beam complex and tour. It’s first rate in every way. If you’re in the area or even if you might consider making a designated trip then it’s worthwhile.

One last note on Beam: There is now “Fred’s Smokehouse” open on the grounds where you can get barbeque for lunch. It’s staffed by some older Kentucky ladies who are about as sweet as the chocolate bourbon pie. I feel comfortable saying that I am a lover of the “Que” and I appreciate all styles: Dry and wet, Kansas City and Texas, Carolina Mustard and Alabama White. However, I do NOT recommend the Smokehouse. The watery meat, stale buns, and mediocre sauce should be avoided. You can get a much better meal at any number of places down the road in Bardstown.

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