Must Buy

SMWSA Cask 27.97

SMWSA Cask No. 27.97
Campbeltown
57.6% ABV
Distilled May 1998
$110
US Allocation: 180 bottles
Winter 2012 Outturn Release

What the SMWSA Says:
Stunning for its age? Creamy fudge, condensed milk, Golden Syrup on hot buttered toast; Caramac toffee/chocolate; ‘Dolce de Leche’ (Argentinian pastries). A very sweet taste, then mouth drying, with a thread of smoke in the finish; caramelised cashew nuts and fresh kindling wood. A drop of water musters crushed rosemary, beurre noir, ‘lemon lollies in warm sand’, sea-salt and a trace of struck matches; the taste smooth and viscous, with a light sweetness balanced by dry tannins; allspice, leather and tobacco in the finish. A classic old-fashioned example of the make from Campbeltown’s leading distillery.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Wispy smoke, compost, vanilla toffee sweetness, and hints of mint infused cocoa powder.
Palate: Rich, sweet, and mouth coating. Odd hints of grape Kool-Aid and the bouquet garni from a coq au vin recipe.
Finish: Tannic and dry. It settles into leather and cigar wrapper right out of an old New York men’s club.
Comments: I have said on several occasions that I would be hard pressed to think of Springbank I haven’t liked. They just make great whisky. This is another shining example. Grab this one if you get the chance.
Rating: Must Buy

Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.

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Parker’s Heritage Collection Second Edition

Parker’s Heritage Collection Aged 27 Years
Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

48% ABV
$200
Parkers Heritage Collection 27 Yr Old Bourbon

What the Distillery Says:
Parker’s Heritage Collection is a tribute to sixth generation master Distiller, Parker Beam, for his 45+ years of service to the distilling industry. Hand selected by Parker himself, the barrels for this second edition have been aging since 1981 on the lower floors of one of Parker’s favorite rickhouses. There, the more constant temperature tamed the aging process, yielding a rich, 27-year-old Bourbon that defies its age.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Ripe plums, toasted oak, caramel, toffee, vanilla, and Alton Brown’s oatmeal raisin cookies (the ones with no flour and golden raisins).
Palate: More vanilla, oak, with old leather and cinnamon. There is also this weird initial note that reminds me of SweetTarts (yeah, I know). An exceptionally balanced drink.
Finish: Rich, leathery, fiery, meaty, tobacco tinged, oak laden, and supremely masculine.
Comments: I pulled this one out of the back of the whiskey cabinet to help close out this year’s National Bourbon Heritage Month. It’s extremely rare to see a 27 year old bourbon. The angels are wicked greedy with their share after 27 years. It’s even rarer still for said bourbon to be any good. Usually you would get a wet oak stave in a bottle. This is something different and truly spectacular. My hat is off to Mr. Beam for his exceptional talents.
Rating: Must Buy

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SMWSA Cask 76.84

SMWSA Cask No. 76.84
Highlands, Speyside (Dufftown)
57.8% ABV
Distilled August 1989
$145
US Allocation: 239 Bottles
Late August 2012 Outturn Release

What the SMWSA Says:
Someone reported a hint of paint at the start, but we mainly identified dried fruit (dates, figs, pineapple, papaya, Christmas cake). We also found orange zest, spearmint, black currant and liquorice. The palate had a nice chewy texture and feisty assertiveness, with flavours of leather, pepper, tobacco, Madeira wine and spicy marmalade on burnt toast. The reduced nose offered prunes, Jaffa cakes and lemon and lime jelly, with slightly burnt fruit-cake. Candied orange, dark chocolate and glazed ham graced the reduced palate, making it mouth-watering, but with a dry finish. King Malcolm defeated the Danes at a spot near this distillery.

Drinking tip: With coffee.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Lovely, lovely nose. Ripe berries, treacle tarts, and spearmint. Water opens up a nose reminding me of orange glazed roasted meat. Mouth watering.
Palate: Delicious sherry sweetness. Black pepper, aged leather, and a fine cigar. It’s like a whole evening out at an exclusive men’s club all rolled into one dram.
Finish: Fresh cracked pepper, polished oak, and sherry on the finish. Surprisingly smooth at barrel proof. WHile water makes for additional depth on the nose and the palate it makes the finish a little too dry.
Comments: An all around lovely dram. For those with the means and access I couldn’t recommend this enough. Mortlach makes some seriously good whisky. It’s a shame Diageo doesn’t bottle more of it.
Rating: Must Buy

Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.

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Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 20 Years
Fall 2011 Release
45.2% ABV/90.4 Proof
$100 to $130
Website

What the Distillery Says:
They really don’t say much. Like most Buffalo Trace whiskeys they refer to review PR.

This is the #1 rated Bourbon Whiskey in the world—Rated 99 out of 100 by the World Spirits Championship. This bourbon is aged 20 years and bottled at 90.4 proof. This whiskey is wonderfully smooth and rich. No other bourbon today can stand 20 years of aging, but this bourbon does it with style. “Pappy” Van Winkle was a true character. This bourbon, like “Pappy”, is full of character that makes it a very special whiskey. It has been put in the class of a fine after dinner cognac.

What Richard Says:
Nose: On the 20 year old I get a lot of nutty and leathery notes. It also shows some of the dark fruit I found on the ORVW 10/90 but missed in the 15 year old. The nose finishes out with something at reminds me of a mix of cloves and Aunt Jemima syrup.
Palate: Creamy and viscous in the mouth with lots of cinnamon and dark chocolate. Then there is a smack of vanilla so big it’s like taking a little hit of vanilla extract.
Finish: The finish is surprisingly less oak than the finish of the 10 and 15 year olds. This one is a very refined older southern gentleman.
Comments: I miss being able to find this for $85 a bottle. Now you regularly see it for $125 to $130. Despite my previous rantings on the Van Winkle hype machine this is still a great bourbon and I’d happily pay $130 for it. Buy it if you can find it.
Rating: Must Buy

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Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 15 Years Old
Fall 2011 Release
53.5% ABV/107 Proof
$80
Website

What the Distillery Says:
They really don’t say much. Like most Buffalo Trace whiskeys they refer to review PR.

A younger version of our famous 20-year-old Pappy Van Winkle’ Family Reserve, this bourbon was crafted according to our exclusive family wheated recipe. The smooth, oak flavor blends well with the barrel proof. Selected from barrels in the heart of our Kentucky warehouse, it has remained untouched for 15 years and unhurried by time. “A whiskey connoisseur’s bonanza,…remarkable find…ranks with the best whiskeys,” Paul Pacult’s Spirit Journal.

What Richard Says:
Nose: For such a lovely bourbon the nose on this is surprisingly coy. It’s got a mellow cleanness to it out of the bottle. Bring in the water and out rolls the toffee, nutmeg, and vanilla custard.
Palate: Dear God that’s rich! Caramel drizzled vanilla custard with lots of cinnamon and a little dark chocolate.
Finish: The finish is like a warm bourbon blanket wrapping you up. The oak and spice are there but they play a supporting role to everything that came before.
Comments: The contrarian in me wants to hate this because of all the bullshit hype Van Winkle bourbons have surrounded themselves with the last few years. There are no more over hyped bourbon products on the market by a wide margin. If you don’t “know somebody” or don’t camp out like groupies looking for tickets to see Bon Jovi on the Slippery When Wet Tour then you ain’t getting any of this. And the incessant bourbon geek flame wars over which distillery is which bottling from are enough to make me want to hate this stuff without all the hype. (BTW, many thanks to Chuck Cowdery and John Hansell for finally putting THAT to rest) There just one problem with my personal vendetta against this stuff…it’s so freaking GOOD! Despite all the ridiculous fervor and all the pseudo bourbon intellectual poser assholes talking it up on the stool next to you this stuff is really good. I don’t know why the Weller recipe ages so well but it does. The 15, 20, and 23 are all great. This is the only one you can still get for under $100 although I still wish it was $50 a bottle like it was when I started drinking it. If you have the means and opportunity don’t pass this one up.
Rating: Must Buy

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