Review

Colonel E.H. Taylor Single Barrel

Colonel E. H. Taylor Single Barrel, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Bottled In Bond

50% ABV
$60-$70
Website
Colonel E. H. Taylor Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey
What the Distillery Says:
Colonel Taylor is widely considered one of the founding fathers of the bourbon industry, fighting for the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897, nearly three decades after he purchased the now Buffalo Trace Distillery. During his time, Taylor implemented several innovative methods still used today, such as climate controlled aging warehouses. In addition to his bourbon interests, Taylor had political ties. He was the great-nephew of President Zachary Taylor and elected the mayor of Frankfort, state representative to the Kentucky General Assembly and a member of the State Senate.

E.H. Taylor Single Barrel is aged exclusively in Warehouse C, which was built by Taylor in 1881 and proven to be an excellent aging warehouse. This bourbon whiskey is very delicate. The aroma carries lightly toasted oak, with dried figs and butterscotch. The sweetness on the tongue remains balanced with tobacco and dark spices that finish just long enough to prepare the palette for another sip. The bottle itself replicates Colonel Taylor’s original design used over a century ago.

What Richard Says:
Nose: This nose is a little shy. Give it time and a light honeysuckle sweetness comes out followed by oak and leather notes.
Palate: The palate is as muted as the nose. It’s leathery and has something burnt in it too.
Finish: Dry like a day old cigar stub.
Comments: The second release in the Taylor series is a fine bourbon but it loses points on the price. It would be a stand out $40 to $50 bourbon but in the $60+ range it is average at best. I think Buffalo Trace might be getting greedy with the price on this one.
Rating: Average

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Angel’s Envy

Angel’s Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Barrels
43.3% ABV
$45
Website
Angel's Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Barrels
What the Distillery Says:
One man’s masterpiece, Angel’s Envy is an artisan bourbon inspired by Lincoln Henderson’s lifetime spent perfecting his craft and creating fine spirits. There may just be a spark of divine vision mixed in as well. Recognized by Malt Advocate, The Bourbon Review and Maxim as one of the top spirits released in 2010, Angel’s Envy is positioned as the world’s premier super-premium bourbon brand.

Beyond all the press, Angel’s Envy is Lincoln Henderson’s passion — a career culminating in two fingers of the finest bourbon you’ve ever tasted. To call Angel’s Envy “small batch” is an understatement.

Our bourbon starts with the native Kentucky climate and soil in which our corn and rye are grown, and a pristine limestone watershed rich in calcium and magnesium. These local ingredients are distilled and aged for four to six years in American white oak barrels. Because we want to create a genuinely unique spirit, we age it for three to six additional months in hand-selected port casks to create an exceptionally smooth and nuanced bourbon.

Some people might say Lincoln Henderson has a problem when they hear that he personally samples every batch of Angel’s Envy. We agree — he’s a raging perfectionist. Through every step of the process, he personally judges each batch’s readiness. We hope you’ll be able to overlook his condition.

Mr. Henderson describes his masterwork as “a warm spirit, lacking any hint of edginess, with ephemeral hints of port wine and a rich amber hue.” He explains, “My goal with Angel’s Envy is to produce a bourbon of exceptional character. Even with economic fluctuations, consumers want the opportunity to treat themselves to special indulgences, and I have created an affordable luxury that can be savored.” Lincoln Henderson sought to create the best-tasting bourbon on the planet. In our humble opinion, he succeeded.

Shake the bottle. If you’re lucky enough, you might see something special. We like to call it “essence.” We don’t filter our bourbon. If you’re looking for a filtered bourbon, the shelves are full of them. Filtration can remove up to 20% of a bourbon’s flavor and color. We prefer to let our bourbon live in its natural state. If that means an occasional particle, we think you’ll understand.

But why do we call it Angel’s Envy? As bourbon ages in the barrels, it’s drawn into the charred white oak during summer months and it recedes back into the virgin barrels during winter months. For each year of maturation, 5% of the barrel’s bourbon is lost to evaporation. For generations, this precious lost bourbon has been called the Angel’s Share. After tasting his creation, Lincoln Henderson reckoned that the angels might have wanted a bigger cut. Thus, Angel’s Envy was born.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Buttery toffee, caramel, and wildflower honey.
Palate: Delicately sweet. Vanilla and cinnamon stand out with a little more toffee and fruity notes.
Finish: Well balanced. A little wood spice interplays with remnants of the palate to medium length before abruptly turning dry and fading out.
Comments: I’m really liking some of the new finished bourbon’s released recently. The Parker’s Cognac Finish and Angel’s Envy stand out from the crowd. This is a dangerously easy to drink bourbon. Tasty and well balanced.
Rating: Must Try

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SMWSA Cask G1.8

SMWSA Cask No. G1.8
Grain
62.9% ABV
Distilled December 1990
$145
US Allocation: 60 Bottles
September 2012 Outturn Release

What the SMWSA Says:
Lots of fruit on the early nose (pear flan, rhubarb, lemon curd, apricot) growing richer in the glass – soon we found marzipan, fudge, toffee, Bakewell tart, butterscotch, vanilla and straw. The palate was just as fruity but also sweet and nippy (some found it fiery) – like a bag of assorted boiled sweets. In reduction, the nose split between citric components and banana toffee – also some dustiness, like rubbing butter into flour. The palate opened and became cleaner and fresher, but evaporation from the tongue left rich joys of tobacco, liquorice and dark chocolate Bounty bars. From Edinburgh’s only grain distillery.

Drinking tip: A summertime dram – or maybe while making cakes.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Rum soaked golden raisins, pears, fresh ginger, saltwater taffy, and heavy cream that’s sat out on the counter too long.
Palate: Old pot coffee, navel oranges, liquorice, and old rubber.
Finish: Water or no water….this is a hot finish with a little bit of charred coconut skins.
Comments: Nose – yes. Everything else – not so much. I would probably send this one packing for the price. Irrespective of price it’s pleasant enough but nothing remarkable stands out. Although, you don’t see much North British bottled so if you can go splits with some folks on the bottle it is an interesting curiosity.
Rating: Average

Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.

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SMWSA Cask 23.72

SMWSA Cask No. 23.72
Islay, Loch Indaal
66.4% ABV
Distilled July 2002
$90
US Allocation: 90 Bottles
September 2012 Outturn Release

What the SMWSA Says:
The nose forced shotgun shells and fireworks on us – but also gave barley sugars, custard and chocolate-coated foamy bananas; peppermint tea, liquorice, smoked ham and old bonfires. The palate’s big, eye-watering sherry slap took our breath away – sweet red liquorice, cinder toffee, creme brulee, treacle, cooked apples, ash and peat. The reduced nose suggested barbecued lamb chops dripping on embers, singed mint leaf and burnt lemon skin. Water definitely improved the palate – now sweeter (toasted coconut, vanilla, golden syrup, raisins, cherries) – also woody spices, crispy sage, and grilled lobster. The distillery is on the road from Port Charlotte to Bridgend.

Drinking tip: Let some water open it up and don’t rush it.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Fresh cut pine, sherry, and brined rose petals. Water gives it an almost meaty aroma. I definitely prefer this at cask strength.
Palate: Sherry, candied apples, pepper vinegar barbeque sauce, and a little bit of raisins.
Finish: The finish needs the water that the nose shrugs aside. Ash, peat, burnt wood and just a little bit minty.
Comments: This one’s a little young for me. Not my favorite Laddie. It’s a freshman all dolled up with padding in her bra trying to get into the senior prom. Sweetheart, your time will come. It’s just not right now.
Rating: Average

Review sample provided courtesy of the SMWSA and is available to society members through their website or 800.990.1991.

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Larceny

John E. Fitzgerald Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Very Special Small Batch

46% ABV
$19.99
Website
Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

What the Distillery Says:
Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc., the country’s largest independent family-owned and operated spirits producer and marketer, announces the initial launch of Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey into 12 markets in September 2012. A super-premium 92 proof Bourbon, Larceny is the heir to the wheated Bourbons that make up the historic Old Fitzgerald franchise that Heaven Hill acquired in 1999. In fact, it is the somewhat controversial history of John E. Fitzgerald and his eponymous Bourbon brand that provides the story, and name, to Larceny Bourbon, the latest new label from the venerated distillery that produces Evan Williams and Elijah Craig Bourbons and Rittenhouse Rye.
Larceny Bourbon continues the Old Fitzgerald tradition of using wheat in place of rye as the third or “small” grain in the whiskey’s grain recipe, or mashbill as it is commonly known. The use of winter wheat replaces the spicier, fruitier flavor notes that rye provides with a softer, rounder character that is the hallmark of Old Fitzgerald and other “wheated” Bourbons such as Maker’s Mark and the Van Winkle line.

It is actually the story of the Old Fitzgerald brand, made famous by the late Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle Sr., that forms the historical basis for Larceny Bourbon. According to industry lore, John E. Fitzgerald had founded his distillery in Frankfort , KY shortly after the Civil War ended, making his Bourbon available only to steamship lines, rail lines and private clubs. This story was furthered by S.C Herbst, who owned the “Old Fitz” brand from the 1880’s through Prohibition, and “Pappy” Van Winkle, who purchased the brand during Prohibition and made it his signature label. However, it was revealed by Pappy’s granddaughter, Sally Van Winkle Campbell, in her 1999 book But Always Fine Bourbon—Pappy Van Winkle and the Story of Old Fitzgerald, that in fact John E. Fitzgerald was not a famous distiller at all. He was in reality a treasury agent who used his keys to the warehouses to pilfer Bourbon from the finest barrels. His discerning palate led those barrels to which he chose to help himself being referred to as “Fitzgerald barrels”.

Now Heaven Hill has launched Larceny, whose tagline—“A taste made famous by an infamous act”—sets history straight.

Tasting Notes:
Aroma: Fresh bread and toffee, with a note of butterscotch
Taste: Buttery caramel and honeyed notes, with a rich mouthfeel
Finish: Long, gently sweet and savory

What Richard Says:
Nose: Cherries…lots of cherries and vanilla. Cherry Vanilla Dr. Pepper? Maybe. The is also a little lavender dancing in the back with scalded milk.
Palate: Not nearly as sweet as the nose would lead you to believe. Vanilla, a nice oak char, rich, and slightly savory. Well balanced as a good wheater should be.
Finish: Butterscotch and dry oak with hints of tobacco and oiled leather.
Comments: Definitely the Heaven Hill wheater DNA from the 2010 Parker’s Heritage release. If I had to put Larceny up against Buffalo Trace’s Weller Special Reserve and Maker’s I’d pick this one every time. I may have just found my new sub $25 wheater.
Rating: Must Try, Great Value

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