Matt’s Blog

A Cache of Rye

This past weekend, I made my first attempt at organized proselytizing.  I hosted a small American Rye Whiskey tasting at my apartment.  Five students were present while I spoke the Word about malted rye.  Most were familiar with bourbon, Irish, and Scottish whisk(e)ys.  However, rye remained a mystery.  We talked about the history of rye and why it gets a bad rap.  After all, rye is the first truly American spirit and was once the base for most American whiskey cocktails.  Why is it so feared and reviled?

Rye’s dubious past began with Prohibition.  While bourbon was still being produced as “medicinal whiskey,” inferior ryes were being produced in bathtubs or imported from Canada.  This helped bourbon gain a strangle hold on the American whiskey scene.  Another reason rye gets a bad rap is also the reason bourbon gets a bad rap and that is the ubiquitous availability of crappy, harsh, fiery whiskeys.  Rye is thought of as something guys will drink on a dare or “to put hair on [their] chests.”

To combat previously held prejudices and fears, I hand picked six ryes that I thought sure to enthrall the harshest skeptic.  Our tasting menu contained (in order of tasting):  Michter’s US-1 Rye Whiskey, Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey, Sazerac 6yo Rye, Rittenhouse Bottled In Bond Rye, Russell’s Reserve 6yo Rye, and Old Potrero 19th Century Single Malt Straight Rye Whiskey.  I chose these six whiskeys based on heritage, current producer, and mash bill as well as more subjective criteria revolving around my concept of “good” whiskey (my chest is hairy enough thank you very much).  Eventually, Richard and I will post formal reviews of all of these but I’m just going to give you the highlights of the night.

The Sazerac was the standout favorite of these six.  Smooth and very drinkable when neat, Sazerac held up well to the addition of water and we concluded that it would hold its own in a cocktail (I know the truth of that from experience).  Sazerac also went well with the blue cheese on the cheese plate and the brownies served after the formal tasting.  Furthermore, a bottle of Sazerac 6 yo will only set you back about $25.  This is the one everyone went to for seconds.

The Old Potrero (the only 100% rye on the menu) gained accolades for uniqueness, but we determined that it was an occasional dram, not as accessible as the Sazerac.

Old Overholt surprised us all with its flavor and nose, but fell completely flat with the addition of water.  If you want something cheap to drink neat any day of the week, here’s your dram.  However, this will not hold up in a cocktail.

For a rich cocktail experience at a very low price, the Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond Rye is surely the way to go.  100 proof, 4 years old, tasty and under $20.  Who can ask for more?

We all liked the Michter’s, but it didn’t earn as much appreciation as the other drams.  I feel like the 10 yo Michter’s would have gone over better with this crowd.

Lastly, we were all a little disappointed with the Russell’s Reserve.  While this is a HUGE step up from the stock standard Wild Turkey Rye, it did not have the strength of character to tussle with the rest of the tasting menu.

There were a  few folks in the group who had bad rye experiences and a few who had never tried rye.  All were surprised by the complexity and approachability that these six Rye whiskeys offered. I think we may have some converts to the wider world of whiskey experience.

If you would like my notes from our tasting (which include a short history of rye and of each dram along with tasting notes), just drop me a line.

Drink well, drink responsibly.

-Matt

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Memorial Day

Sorry we’ve been M.I.A. for a little while.  Stay tuned for our review of Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey, Batch #2.  Good stuff.  Then we will get back to our Gateway Series with Gentlemen Jack from Jack Daniel’s.

For the Memorial Day weekend, I will be out in Boulder, CO sampling as many micro-brews as I can find.  I was hoping to hit up Stranahan’s new digs in Denver while out there, but they’ve got the weekend off after non-stop 17 hour days since moving.  Maybe next time.

If you’re in Boulder this weekend and see a guy with a handlebar mustache and a chin-strap beard ask him if he’s a whiskey apostle, ’cause it’s probably me.

Since everyone will be breaking out their grills this weekend, I was wondering what your favorite backyard bar-be-que dram would be.  Personally, I grill with a beer in hand and settle in to a nice whisk(e)y after dinner.  What’s in my glass changes with the wind.  This feels like an American whiskey weekend, something smoky and strong, maybe barrel proof.  Four Roses Single Barrel perhaps, or maybe George T. Stagg.  Summertime is also a great time to break out the cocktails.  Something cool and simple is always my preference.  Try a Rye and Ginger, a Mint Julep, or a Lynchburg Lemonade.  Very refreshing.

Raise a glass to the fighting and the fallen this weekend.  Drink well, drink responsibly.

-Matt

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Balvenie 17yo Retrospective

Balvenie 17yo Releases in reverse chronological order.
Balvenie 17yo Releases in reverse chronological order.

Friday night, Sam Simmons (known as to some) hosted a class at Astor Center, titled “The Influence of Wood Finishing on Whisky: A Retrospective of The Balvenie 17yr.”  Needless to say, I was excited when I first heard about this event.  Since the release of Glenmorangie’s line of wood finishes, I have dreamed of either hosting or attending a class where participants were given the opportunity for side by side tastings of variously finished whiskies.  In my head, this class would include tastings of the finishing barrel’s previous contents.  Sam, it seems, is of a same mind.  Although he used the various Balvenie 17yo releases instead of the Glenmorangie that sparked the idea in my head, I could not have been more thrilled (he is the Balvenie brand ambassador for the US after all).

Sam started the night with little history about the Balvenie and why it is his favorite distillery (family owned, they grow their own barley, they malt their own barley, employ their own coopers and copper smiths, and of course Master Distiller/Blender David Stewart).  Now you may say, “but Matt, he’s the brand ambassador, doesn’t he have to say these thing?”  Well, yes and no.  He tells the truth on all accounts.  The list above is what makes the Balvenie stand out among the myriad of distilleries sprinkled about Scotland.  Furthermore, Sam asserts that his love of the Balvenie started long before he became an employee of William Grant and Sons.  I think we can trust him on this.

Roughly 70% of whisky’s flavor comes from the barrel.  This is why the type of barrel is so important in the initial maturation and finishing of the product.  To that end, Sam started the evening with some neutral spirits straight from the still.  Not straight from the still exactly, the spirits had been cut to 63% ABV as that is what goes into the barrel for aging.  If you have ever had grappa or moonshine, you have an idea what this tastes like.  The nose smelled faintly of fruit with heavy cereal and alcohol notes.  The taste?  Well, the alcohol is strong with some malty goodness buried in the back.

Next we moved onto the actual whisky.  David Stewart created a firestorm in the whisky industry back in 2000/2001 with the introduction of the Balvenie Islay Cask.  Industry insiders, enthusiasts, and casual drinkers were giddy with this “best of both worlds” style bottling.  David being an adventurous man, he responded with, not more Islay cask, but with a New Wood release in 2005/2006.  Since then, New Oak, Sherry Oak, and Rum Cask have all hit the market.  Apart from the Rum Cask (released just last year), the whiskies are very difficult to find and have become collector’s items.  How any man can buy a bottle of whisky and just look at it, I’ll never know.  Our tasting moved in reverse chronological order.

The Balvenie 17yo Rum Cask spent four months in Jamaican rum casks after 17 years in traditional oak.  This is an excellent dram, but I was hoping for something a little more akin to the Glenfiddich 21yo Rum Cask.  Where the Glenfiddich is well balanced, the Balvenie is a little too sweet for my palate.  It is almost cloying in its sweetness.  Perhaps this is a function of age, but I think that the deeply honeyed nature of the Balvenie just goes over the edge here (slightly).  We tried this along with Appleton Estates Jamaican Rum (one of my favorites).  Sam could not confirm the source of the Jamaican rum casks used at the Balvenie, but we were still able to tasted the lineage of this whisky.  The rum imparts the smells and flavors of bananas and coconuts to the already sweet whisky.  If you’ve ever wanted to taste a whisky that smells like a banana split, here’s your chance.

For the Sherry Oak release, the whisky spent all 17 years in Oloroso sherry butts.   I am not a sherry drinker.  However, I tend to like whiskies produced in this manner (the Macallan, the Glenrothes).  I was interested to see how the Balvenie would hold up to the sherry.  I have to say, it was a let down for me.  Once again, we have a balance problem.  The whisky smelled delightful (like baked apples).  However, the palate was overly sherried for me.  The proof of the connection was provided by a glass of Oloroso sherry.  After a few sips back and forth, I was sure that the sherry was holding the whisky back.

The New Oak release was quite an experiment.  First David Stewart vatted 17yo whisky from sherry casks and bourbon casks.  Then, he aged the vatted whisky in new toasted oak casks for four months.  My favorite whiskey so far, the nose was like creme brulee with traces of mint.  The palate had mint and the traditional honeyed tones morphed into agave and maple syrup.  We tried this with a 12yo Elijah Craig bourbon (a good dram by itself).  Once again, Sam cannot verify the source of the barrels used in the production of this whisky, but he says that he has seen Heaven Hill (the producers of Elijah Craig) barrels around the warehouse.  That is why he chose this particular bourbon to supplement the tasting.

The New Wood release, featured whisky aged first in barrels that previously held Balvenie whiskey then in new oak barrels.  This is a real wine drinker’s whisky (bright, citrusy, oak and honey).  Tried next to a very oaky Chardonnay, this whisky stands out as unique and interesting.  Not a bold whisky by any means, but a good whisky to complement food or to tempt a wine drinker from vine to grain.

Finally, we reached the Islay Cask.  This whisky is long gone from store shelves and is now relegated to online auctions and collector’s cabinets.  It is really a shame though.  This is the best of the five releases so far, and you can see (taste) why this created such an uproar when released.  We tasted this with Laphroaig 10.  Laphroaig is highly peatly and not very well balanced, but it is reasonable to assume that Laphroaig or something similar slept in these casks before they held 17yo Balvenie.  The alchemy of this release is really interesting.  The nose is honeyed smoke, like a bonfire on the beach at dusk as the wind carries scents of honeysuckle from the shore.  The palate carries on the smokey sweetness and adds butter toffee and citrus.  Truly a delightful whisky.

I am grateful to Sam Simmons for offering this class.  It was really a dream come true for me.  Although I curse him for giving me the opportunity to fall in love with another whisky that is beyond my grasp.

After the “Blend Your Own Balvenie Signature Reserve” class, one of our readers asked if there were any plans to take that class to the UK.  Well Ian, I’m afraid neither that class nor this one will be offered over there.  These classes were both stocked from Sam’s personal collection.  Sorry folks.

Drink well.  Drink responsibly.
-Matt

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It’s Derby Time

The Kentucky Derby is this weekend. You know what that means… Mint Juleps. This year, Early Times Mint Julep is the official drink of the Kentucky Derby (even though Woodford Reserve is the official bourbon). There are a few Mint Julep recipes out there. The ingredients are all the same, but the mixing and ratios often vary. The ingredients are bourbon (of course), sugar, water (some recipes use simple syrup instead of sugar and water), mint and ice. I’m going to break down a few methods for you.

Advanced:
The official Early Times Mint Julep calls for 2oz. Bourbon, 1 tbsp simple syrup, 1 tbsp water, mint sprigs and crushed ice. What makes this one ‘advanced’ is the simple syrup is infused with mint. To make the simple syrup, boil 1 cup of sugar with 1 cup of water for 5 minutes. Pour the simple syrup mixture over a bunch of of mint leaves. Gently crush the leaves into the mixture. Chill, strain, and chill some more.

Crush mint leaves into the bottom of an 8 oz glass. Fill the glass with crushed ice. Add 1 tbsp water, 1 tbsp simple syrup (our mint infusion), 2 oz. bourbon and stir until frost forms on the glass. Garnish with mint.

A little easier:
If you can’t be bothered to make your own simple syrup, you can also muddle 2 tsp water with 2 tsp sugar and 6-8 mint sprigs. Add bourbon and ice and you are good to go.

For the truly lazy:
Early Times makes a premixed Mint Julep Cocktail. Serve it over ice with a mint garnish.

Some Trader Joe’s stores also carry simple syrup for a hybrid of the recipes above.

I’m not a big fan of Early Times bourbon, so I’ll be making my Juleps with Buffalo Trace this year. I recommend using something good but not very expensive. The flavors of the sugar and the mint complement the bourbon, but they do cover up some things. Do not waste the last of your Woodford Reserve Four Grain on one of these.

Drink well. Drink responsibly.
-Matt

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Acts of the Apostles

There has been a flurry of excitement here at Whisk(e)y Apostle.  You can now be a fan on Facebook and follow my (Matt) adventures through Twitter (WhiskeyApostle).  Maybe I can drag Richard out of the dark ages for a tweet now and then.  Furthermore, we are hard at work designing a questionnaire to aid our readers in finding the perfect dram.  This should launch in a rather rudimentary version, with each one being handled directly by us, in the coming weeks.  Eventually, we hope to automate the process.  Yes, we know there is other whisk(e)y software out there, but it is much too complicated for a novice.  Our mission is to introduce whisk(e)y to the uninitiated, after all.

To make things more exciting, we are launching our “gateway” series this week.  In this series we will be reviewing some of the most readily available and easy to find whisk(e)ys.  When we started down the road to becoming whiskey apostles, we found it quite irritating that we could find ten reviews of some $100 bottle only available at Duty Free, but never anything we could afford or find.  Therefore, we are going to review some of the “gateway” and “well” whisk(e)ys.  This way, the true novice will have a way to make educated decisions on their first dram.

To top things off, I just found out that we will have whiskies from both India and Australia (specifically Tasmania) here in the US around Labor day.  Both Amrut (India) and Sullivan’s Cove (Australia) have tested well in blind tastings against Scottish single malts.  I read about Sullivan’s Cove a while back and I’m all aflutter with excitement.  The folks from Sullivan’s Cove will also be attending WhiskyFest in both San Francisco (Oct. 16) and New York (Nov. 10).

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