Matt’s Blog

We’re All Full Of Sh*t

/ / Matt's Blog

Wow. It’s been a long time. I feel like a guest blogger. Richard’s been doing a great job during my long sabbatical.

An article appeared on io9 yesterday entitled “Wine Tasting Is Bullshit. Here’s Why.”

The article cites multiple studies and anecdotes that prove the lack of objective science in the rating systems for wine tasting. This is not new knowledge. We all know that “taste” is subjective in all its meanings. Everything is different for everybody all the time. We’ve never said anything different on this site. We don’t even claim to be experts. Just enthusiasts with bad memories, so we have to keep a blog of our endeavors or else lose them forever.

Richard once played a trick on me. He sent me an unlabeled sample and asked me to guess what it was. Based on it’s color, I thought it had to be bourbon. So, I approached it as if it was bourbon. The flavor was great, but it was somehow wrong. Was it some strange bourbon aged in wine casks? Was it a single malt from some obscure region, left to age in a barrel long enough to have the color of bourbon? What is the origin? On the slab? Off the slab? New York? Oregon? Gallifrey? I knew it was whiskey. I wanted it to be whiskey.

It was brandy.

After years of tasting, the first test I received and I failed miserably. I will admit that I’ve tasted peat where the distiller claims there is none. The same with Sherry. Does that make my tastings less authoritative? The truth is, they were never authoritative, because they are (and always will be) subjective. Even for those who train their palates and immerse themselves in whisky tasting, things change. Some days, I can’t stand peat. Some days, it’s all I want. I sometimes taste bananas when I drink the Balvenie or Belgian beer. I will forever associate the smell of Jim Beam with frat house vomit. And the list goes on…

What I’m saying is this: every review we (I’m using the universal collective “we” here) write is tempered by every experience we’ve had. There are environmental factors to each specific sitting. There is what we know about the distillery. There are our expectations and a thousand other factors. So read the reviews, taste what you can taste, and drink what you like.

The most interesting bit of the io9 article is at the very end, where it shows an inverse relationship to price and enjoyment for the average wine drinker. Do you, dear reader, think this is true for whisk(e)y as well? I know we often adjust our ratings based on something being perceived as over priced, but does that mean we enjoy it less?

Matt

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American Irish Whiskey

/ / Matt's Blog, Richard's Blog

Big news came down the pipe on Friday. Beam Inc. (formally Beam Global) purchased Cooley for $95 million. Cooley was the last Irish owned whiskey distillery in Ireland. Diageo (British) owns Bushmills and Pernod Ricard (French) owns everything else through Irish Distillers. Here’s the press release that went out on Friday.

Beam Announces Agreement to Purchase Cooley Distillery, Award-Winning Irish Whiskey Company

Beam Entering Fast-Growing Irish Whiskey Category

Opportunity to Leverage Beam’s Strong Distribution and Brand-Building Capabilities

Award-Winning Portfolio of Irish Whiskeys Includes Kilbeggan and Connemara

Dublin, Ireland, and Deerfield, Illinois, December 16, 2011 – Beam Inc. (NYSE: BEAM), a leading global premium spirits company, today announced that it has entered into an agreement to purchase Cooley Distillery, the award-winning independent Irish whiskey producer. The acquisition of Cooley, the industry’s only remaining independent Irish whiskey distillery, will mark Beam’s entrance into one of the spirits industry’s fastest-growing categories. The purchase price is approximately $95 million on a debt-free basis.

Cooley owns and produces the Kilbeggan, Connemara, Tyrconnell and Greenore brands. It currently sells approximately 250,000 9-liter cases per year – divided among its brands, private label products and bulk sales to third-party customers – and has production capacity to support substantial future growth. Beam expects the acquisition to be earnings neutral in 2012 and increasingly accretive moving forward.

“Cooley is one of only three sources for Irish whiskey, and the only independent player, so this transaction is a unique and compelling high-return opportunity to enter one of the industry’s highest growth categories,” said Matt Shattock, president and chief executive officer of Beam. “We see the opportunity to leverage our combination of scale with agility to further build consumer demand for Cooley’s award-winning brands, and to expand distribution off a relatively small base in key export markets for Irish whiskey across North America and Europe. Cooley’s brands and distilleries have a heritage that’s unmatched in the world of Irish whiskey, so they will be a great fit with our portfolio of brands with long and rich histories. We look forward to being good stewards of these iconic Irish assets. We are also eager to work with the Cooley team, led by the Teeling family, who have built Cooley with so much pride and passion, to capitalize on the opportunities that lie ahead.”

John Teeling, Chairman and Founder of Cooley Distillery, said, “Beam understands whiskey. They have the culture, experience and global strength to enable the Cooley portfolio of brands to reach their potential in the fast growing Irish whiskey category. The renaissance in Irish whiskey, most evident in the United States, is now spreading across the world. Through Beam, our brands, built on quality, will be introduced to a host of new consumers. I am certain that the marriage between Cooley and Beam will benefit all.”

With both grain and malt distilleries, Cooley is able to produce a complete range of Irish whiskey styles. The company’s Kilbeggan Distillery, opened in 1757, is reputed to be the world’s oldest distillery and produces Cooley’s flagship blended Irish whiskey. Cooley’s many accolades include being named European Spirits Producer of the Year for an unprecedented four consecutive years by the International Wine & Spirit Competition (2008-2011).

The Irish whiskey category grew 11.5% in 2010 to 4.86 million cases according to Impact Databank. The leading markets for Irish whiskey, according to Impact, are the United States, Ireland, the United Kingdom, France, South Africa and Germany.

The transaction is structured as a tender offer in which Beam will offer Cooley’s stockholders $8.25 in cash for each outstanding share of Cooley stock. The transaction is conditioned upon holders of at least 80% of Cooley’s outstanding stock accepting the offer and other customary closing conditions. Holders of over 75% of Cooley’s outstanding stock have irrevocably agreed with Beam to tender their shares in the offer. The parties expect to complete the transaction in the first quarter of 2012.

About Cooley Distillery

Cooley Distillery is the award winning independent Irish whiskey distillery. Established in 1987, Cooley takes its name from the location of its distillery, situated at the foothills of the Cooley Mountains, in Co. Louth. Cooley has an award winning portfolio of Irish whiskeys including Kilbeggan Irish whiskey, Tyrconnell Single Malt, Connemara Peated Single Malt and Greenore Single Grain Irish whiskey. To learn more about Cooley Distillery visit www.cooleywhiskey.com .

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Is that peat smoke wafting from the Isle of Arran?

/ / Matt's Blog, Scottish Whisky

Yes it is!

We received a press release announcing the launch of Machrie Moor, the “first peated Arran Single Malt.”  Very exciting folks.  So far the Arran Malts have won high praise, we’ll see how this one does once the whiskirati gets a hold of it.  Maybe they’ll send us a sample to try?  No word yet on the US price point.

FIRST PEATED WHISKY FROM ISLE OF ARRAN ON ALLOCATION
Award-winning Scotch whisky producer Isle of Arran Distillers is launching its first peated Arran Single Malt under the brand name Machrie Moor.
Such is the expected demand, that retailers will only receive a limited allocation when the whisky, named after a peat moor on the west coast of Arran, is launched worldwide. The distiller expects to sell all available stocks quickly.
Master Distiller James MacTaggart has skillfully combined all of the elements available to create a harmonious combination of malt, peat and cask.
MacTaggart said: “With the distillery’s first peated malt, I wanted to create a whisky where the character and taste of Arran that our followers love remained but add a something different with the peat flourish.
“This first peated whisky has a hint of fudge, coconut and spice with notes of orchard fruits and cardamom spice. This is complimented by the peat -reek smoky finish which we are sure will go down well with single malts fans.”
To celebrate the first peated whisky and give it more stand-out, the distillery have given the bottle a different look than the usual Arran style. Only 9,000 bottles will be available from the first edition of what is set to become a limited annual release.
Isle of Arran Distillery Managing Director Euan Mitchell says: “We’re very proud of our first peated whisky and thought it merited a new look to separate it from the regular un-peated Arran malt.
“The barren Machrie Moor is strewn with Bronze Age stone circles. It is said that on one of these stones, the legendary warrior giant Fingal tethered his favourite dog, Bran.
“This peated expression of the Arran Single Malt perfectly captures the rugged beauty and lore of the landscape and Bran was the perfect pin-up for the bottle.”
Machrie Moor is packaged in a dark green bottle with an image of ‘Bran’ in copper and the words ‘Machrie Moor’ in bold to further add standout on shelves/back bars (change accordingly for on/off trade.)

The first release will be available to all Arran key markets worldwide including UK, France, Germany, USA, Russia and Japan.

Machrie Moor (46% abv) has an RRP of £39.99 available from www.arranwhisky.com

Machrie Moor tasting notes –
Aroma: Subtle and elusive initially. Hints of fudge, coconut & spice with a teasing touch of the glorious peat reek to follow.
Palate: Classic Arran at first with notes of citrus, orchard fruits and cardamom spice mingling in a rich melting pot. At the back of the palate peat smoke finally emerges to whip up a storm.
Finish: The peat reek takes centre stage leaving a rich, warming glow like the burning embers of a bonfire.

Is that peat smoke wafting from the Isle of Arran? Read More »

Stillhouse “The Original Moonshine Clear Corn Whiskey”

/ / Matt's Blog, Other Whisk(e)ys

Recently, I attended a press event for “The Original Moonshine Clear Corn Whiskey”  from Stillhouse distillery in Virginia.  This is not your typical whiskey company.  Founded by a brand developer and an internationally renowned chef (Brad Beckerman & Adam Perry Lang respectively).  Original Moonshine is a brand of style and purpose.  Notice, I say “brand” and not “whiskey.”  While the whiskey itself is important, you never forget that you are being sold on something.  To me, its refreshing when a brand chooses to talk about markets and strategy instead of pretending that brand image and marketing are irrelevant.  That’s not to say that the product should not take precedent; it’s just nice when everyone in the room knows what’s going on and is not afraid to talk about it.

The whiskey itself was developed for a purpose (a premium mixer good enough to drink neat).  To do this, they use a 100% corn mash and distill it four (FOUR!) times to insure a clean and mellow spirit.  Just in case it wasn’t mellow enough, they float charcoal in the mash and filter the spirit through more charcoal as well.

The verdict?  It’s very clean and smooth with just the barest flavor of sweet corn.  This raises the question:  Why go through all this trouble to create a whiskey that basically tastes like vodka?  Their answer:  “The vodka market is saturated.  We wanted a product that was different.”  Different, but the same from my eye.

Is it good neat?  Yes, but its better with ice and a twist of lime.  Does it make for a good mixer?  Most certainly.  Will it be embraced by the Whiskirati?  Most certainly not.  However, if someone is having a hard time getting into brown liquor, this could be a gateway to new worlds of flavor.

The product is good for what it was designed to do and the packaging is great.  I have a feeling this one will catch on in some of the hipper bars.  It’s already in a few places in NYC and should be on the shelves sometime in January.

Drink well, drink responsibly.

Matt

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New Woodford Master’s Collection

/ / Bourbon, Matt's Blog

The new Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection hits stores this week.  It’s finished in Maple wood.  Some folks out there are questioning whether or not it can still be called “bourbon” after spending time in maple casks.  From what I know, it just has to spend the first two years of it’s life in new, charred oak.  After that, things get sketchy.  If the government says it can say “bourbon” on the label, that’s good enough for me.  Richard and I are always eager to try the Master’s Collection bourbons (mostly in the hopes that one will approach the awesomeness of the Four Grain),  For more info, check out this press release:

Woodford Reserve Releases Limited Edition Maple Wood Finished Bourbon
Industry’s First Bourbon Finish Aged in Maple Wood Barrels Available November 1

November 1, 2010, Louisville, Ky. – Woodford Reserve announces the latest extension of its acclaimed Master’s Collection which will be released on November 1. Called ‘Maple Wood Finish,’ it is the fifth in the series of limited edition bottlings and continues Woodford Reserve’s tradition of crafting rare whiskeys that extend the category in bold new directions.

This whiskey is one of the most unique Master’s Collection’s to date as it is the industry’s first bourbon to be finish aged in barrels made from sugar maple wood. Barrels play a key role in producing bourbon, with approximately 70 percent of the spirit’s flavor and aroma and all of its color provided by the barrel. Woodford Reserve’s new offering features bourbon finish-aged in uniquely crafted barrels made of maple wood, something never before done in the industry.

“Sugar maple trees have a complex natural chemistry, rich in calcium, potassium and other minerals, but they are best known for their flavorful sap which contains as much as 3% sugar,” said Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris. “Though it was thought that whiskey barrels could not be crafted from sugar maple wood, our Brown-Forman Cooperage has done just that. Of all the distillers in our industry, we are the only bourbon company that crafts its own barrels, giving us unique knowledge and control of the process. The Master’s Collection Maple Wood Finish uniquely finish-ages Woodford Reserve in a toasted, not charred, maple wood barrel, resulting in a whiskey enhanced with hints of maple, honey and cinnamon.”

Ever year, one of the five sources of flavor is changed for the Master’s Collection expressions. These five sources – grain, water, fermentation, distillation, and wood-aging – are unique to bourbon whiskey, and altering just one of them creates a totally new flavor profile.

“Bourbon must be matured in new, charred oak barrels, and in our quest to fully understand the contribution oak wood makes to bourbon, we have studied other Kentucky hardwoods as well,” said Wayne Rose, brand director for Woodford Reserve. “This has led to some exciting discoveries and innovative barrel finish concepts. One of these – Maple Wood Finish – is a first for the spirits industry and has resulted in an amazing, elegant whiskey.”

Maple Wood Finish is the fifth in the Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection series following the Four Grain, Sonoma-Cutrer Finish, Sweet Mash and Seasoned Oak offerings. Released periodically at the master distiller’s discretion, the Master’s Collection whiskeys are extremely limited in quantity and bottled only once, in a proprietary package inspired by the copper pot stills of The Woodford Reserve Distillery.

The inspiration for the Master’s Collection is rooted in the rich history and tradition of what is today known as The Woodford Reserve Distillery. In the mid-1800s distillery owner Oscar Pepper and Master Distiller James Crow studied and recommended use of key processes like sour mashing and charred barrel maturation at the historic Woodford County distillery. These practices are still maintained in the bourbon industry, and today the distillery receives more than 100,000 visitors annually and is the only one in America to use bourbon triple distilled in traditional copper pot stills.”

Woodford Reserve Maple Wood Finish will be sold in 45 U.S. markets, and a limited quantity will be available in Canada, the United Kingdom, Belgium, France, Germany, New Zealand and Australia. Each bottle is individually hand-numbered and presented at 94.4 proof. Available in major metro markets, only 1,676 cases are available with a suggested retail price of $89.99 for a 750ml bottle.

Tasting Notes for Woodford Reserve Maple Wood Finish

Color:            Golden brown.

Aroma:         Rich and sweet with hints of brown sugar glazed baked apricots, milk chocolate and fresh toasted oak.

Taste:            Warm with cinnamon spice, faint hints of maple syrup, berry fruit and a touch of nuttiness.

Finish:          Crisp with delicate maple syrup notes lingering on with a touch of warm fruit.

-# # #-

Woodford Reserve is a product of the Brown-Forman Corporation, a producer and marketer of fine quality beverage alcohol brands such as Jack Daniel’s, Southern Comfort, Finlandia, Fetzer, Korbel, Tequila Herradura, Sonoma-Cutrer, Chambord, Tuaca, and Bonterra. Please enjoy your bourbon responsibly. For more information on Woodford Reserve, visit www.woodfordreserve.com.

Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY ©2010.

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