Matt’s Blog

Spirited Swine

/ / Bourbon, Cocktails, Matt's Blog, Other Whisk(e)ys

Tonight I experienced the melding of two of mankind’s greatest inventions, distilled spirits and cured meat. Astor Center (the event space for Astor Wines & Spirits in NYC) hosted the Bacon & Bourbon Expo. Mr. Cutlet (Josh Ozersky) played host to the event, where I had the opportunity to pair some of my favorite American whiskeys with a sampling of artisanal smoked meats. The title was a bit of a misnomer. There were nearly as many assorted American whiskeys as true bourbons. I assume the title was for alliteration and because Bacon & Assorted American Whiskey Expo did not roll off the tongue half as well.

I envisioned a semi-guided tour where meat masters conferred with spirit sommeliers to determine pairings of specialty bacons with complimentary whiskeys. Perhaps an applewood smoked bacon with Bernheim’s Wheat Whiskey or something of that nature. However, it was a bit of free-for-all. There were plates stacked with bacon and thick cut pork belly, containers of ham sticks, and a handful of distilleries represented (each with a small selection of their line – about 20 whiskeys in total). There was a long lapse between courses of bacon as the plates emptied, but the event was great fun and I got plenty of bacon and some really great whiskey.

The stand-out whiskey favorites were the Parker’s Heritage 2nd Edition 27 Year Old and the Rittenhouse Very Rare 23 Year Old 100 Proof Rye. As always, the Tuthilltown table was packed as Ralph Erenzo worked his charm on the gathered bourbon enthusiasts. He makes great whiskey, but I’ve got to give this one to Heaven Hill (they make both Parker’s and Rittenhouse).

Even at 96 proof, the Parker’s is dangerously drinkable. One would expect a 27 year old bourbon to be overly woody and a 96 proof bourbon to burn your nose and your throat. This edition of the Parker’s Heritage collection is surprisingly balanced with notes of spice, vanilla, and marzipan. I’m going to give this a ‘Must Try,’ but, at $200, it is out of my price range.

The Rittenhouse is intense, smooth, sweet and spicy. There was a time when I shied away from rye whiskey. After trying some really good ryes (like Sazerac), rye became part of my regular drink list. The Rittenhouse is unique and far smoother than any rye has a right to be. Its price point is higher than the 18yo Sazerac by $20-50 depending on the source and I am not sure that it is worth the difference. Definitely worth a try though.

The bacon list was not as extensive as the whiskey list, but it was quality. My favorites were D’Artagnan’s Hickory Smoked Wild Boar Bacon and the pork belly from RUB (a NYC bar-be-que joint). I can honestly say that I could subsist entirely on pork belly and bourbon.

The big surprise of the evening was the Bacon-Infused Old Fashions being served up by PDT (go here for the recipe). It is even better than it sounds.

As I type this, my throat is raw from talking about whiskey all night and my fingers still smell of smoked pork fat. I think I should go eat a salad.

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How We Review

/ / Matt's Blog, Review, Richard's Blog

Whisk(e)y Apostle is getting ready to post our first whiskey review. Our format is pretty easy to follow, but may be different from what you are accustomed.

Whisk(e)y Name
Info (ABV/Price/Availability)
What the distillery says (tasting notes)
What Richard says (tasting notes/rating)
What Matt says (tasting notes/rating)
Overall Rating

Whiskeys will receive a rating of ‘Must Buy’ (highest rating), ‘Must Try’ (high rating but may be rare or expensive), ‘Stands Out’ (above average), ‘Average’, ‘Probably Pass’. If something is a particular bargain (a great Scotch/Irish for under $50 or a great bourbon for under $25), it will also receive a ‘Great Value’ rating.

As much as possible, we will both review each whiskey and attempt to sample in similar circumstances. We pay for our samples 99% of the time. Any samples we receive from distilleries or distributors will be clearly noted.

Our reviews will appear periodically in our blog. To access all of our reviews, click the ‘Taste of the…’ link. We hope to post reviews weekly and, as we gather more reviews, you will be able to view by distillery. Additionally, we will occasionally review non-whiskey spirits and beer. We hope you enjoy our reviews. Let us know if they are helpful.

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The Wind That Shakes The Barley

/ / Matt's Blog

A short time ago, I was introducing my friend Chris to the ways of whiskey when he asked me a question I never heard. Chris, an avid beer drinker, asked if the barley used in whiskey making was the same as that used to brew beer. I told him that to my knowledge, the strains of barley used for whiskey were very different, but I would do some research.

Chris did not know it, but he was ahead of the curve. Recently, several distilleries have introduced beer malts into the traditional whiskey mix while others have taken to making whiskey directly from commercially available beer (or from commercial breweries). There are several things driving this decision. There is currently a boom in the whiskey market and boom leads to innovation. Distillers all over the world are trying to find ways to distinguish their product from everything else out there. A few years ago, wine finishes were all the rage. This led to some wonderful experiments that paid off (Glenfiddich 21 aged in rum casks) and some that did not (Glenmorangie Burgundy Finish). This also opened up the market for all the French Oak varieties (Glenlivet, The Macallan, etc.) that I so love.

For a handful of micro (or craft) distilleries this innovation is completely economical. The distilleries are so small that they lack the capability to produce the beer necessary to make whiskey.

So, you may ask, what do these whiskeys taste like? Well, like anything, there are some hits and some misses. Bushmills 1608 (made with crystal malt) gets good reviews and I can personally attest to the quality of Glenmorangie’s The Signet. The Signet is partially made from chocolate malt and offers a very complex and wonderful experience that goes very well with dark chocolate or a good cigar. Charbay makes an American whiskey with pilsner beer. Unfortunately, at $325 a bottle, I doubt that I will get to try the results and further doubt that it would be worth the absurd cost (it’s three years old and aged in stainless steel!). Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey has a local brewery make their beer, but I’m not sure what kind of malt is used. The results, I can say, are uninspiring. This is one of the blandest whiskeys I’ve tasted. Since I tasted Stranahan’s at a large tasting event, in between some bourbon heavy hitters, I would be willing to give it another shot (so to speak).

So, there you have it, the results of my malt research. The beer malt trend is so big that it made Malt Advocate‘s ‘What’s in Store For 2009’ list. So far, the results are somewhat expensive (except for Stranahan’s) so your best bet is to find them at a tasting event, but I hope you get to try them. Experiments can be pretty tastey. Thanks for the inspiration Chris.

-Matt

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Whisk(e)y And The Weaker(?) Sex

/ / Cocktails, Matt's Blog

*NOTE: The title is only for alliteration not misogyny. Please, do not flood me with hate mail.

I have noticed a wonderful trend of late. Women who like whiskey. I personally have several female friends who can appreciate a good dram as much as anyone. Unfortunately, my wife is not one of them. Traditionally, whiskey is a harder sell than other hard liquor for women (if you have a significant other who likes beer, brats, and single malt Scotch you can quit reading). Once they try it, women are just as likely as men to enjoy whiskey. They are just less likely to give it a chance. So, how do you share your love of whiskey with your lady friend(s) if they are hesitant or uninitiated? It may sound sexist, but it is simple… cocktails (a topic that seems more than appropriate given Richard’s last blog).

Currently, the only way I can get my wife to drink whiskey is in a high ball (bourbon & ginger ale). I’ve tried making it with cheap stuff, but she prefers Four Roses Small Batch. What can I say? The lady knows good whiskey.

Unfortunately, it seems the art of whiskey cocktails has been lost to most bartenders (see the Jameson Whiskey Martini). Whiskey cocktails should compliment not disguise the whiskey. Instead of ordering a Jack and Coke, try an Old Fashioned (bourbon, sugar, bitters, an orange slice, and a cherry), a Whiskey Sour (the hard way or with a mix), or a Mint Julep (bourbon, sugar, and mint). If you have a savvy bar keep, you may be able to get a New Yorker (bourbon muddled w/ lime & a dash of grenadine) or Rusty Nail (Scotch, Drambuie & a lemon twist). If you find a cocktail you like, try it with different whiskeys.

The other way to introduce whiskey to any neophyte (regardless of sex) is to demonstrate the ritual of tasting (see FAQs for details). If they know that it is acceptable to add a little bit of water to temper the burn, they may be more willing to take the plunge.

Introducing whiskey to someone can be a challenge, but is usually very rewarding. Why else would we be whiskey apostles?

-Matt

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A Night With Char no.4

/ / Bourbon, Matt's Blog

Among my circle of friends, it is clearly no secret that I love whiskey. So, it was not all that surprising when four separate people (all within the span of a week) told me that I needed to try out this new place in Brooklyn. The place is called Char no.4, a reference to the level of char that is burned into a bourbon cask imparting that smokiness for which bourbon is famous. The name sounded promising, but it was the lure of the extensive whiskey list that drew me to the far reaches of Brooklyn.

I’m quite familiar with the whiskey joints in the city (St. Andrews, Brandy Library, etc.). However, they primarily focus on Scotch. The real appeal of Char no.4 is the bourbon and other American whiskeys on the list. They also have a larger selection of Japanese and Irish whiskeys than is typical. Their single malt and blended Scotch selection is good, but pales in comparison to the more Scotch focused places (and is overpriced to boot).

I tried four bourbons, while I munched on a tasty beet salad and fried pork nuggets. I ordered four 1 oz. tasters. I sampled the Rock Hill Farms Single Barrel (Buffalo Trace), the Wathen’s Single Barrel (Charles Medley Distillery), Noah’s Mill (Kentucky Bourbon Distillers), and Prichard’s Double Barrel Bourbon (Prichard’s Distillery, Tennessee). Since my bill said Blanton’s instead of Wathen’s and I haven’t had the Blanton’s in a donkey’s age, I can’t say for sure that what I tasted was the Wathen’s (I guess I’ll have to go back). I enjoyed all four whiskeys. The real surprise for me was the Prichard’s.

Prichard’s Double Barrel Bourbon is aged twice in new, white oak barrels. This gives it a unique character that is a little woodier and a little smokier than traditional bourbon while remaining extremely drinkable. It is produced limited runs, so it costs a little more that it should, but that is the cost of exclusivity.

So, if you find yourself in Brooklyn, check out the bourbon list at Char no.4. One caveat though. Come prepared and do your research. A small portion of the drinks are grossly over-priced. Some of the pricing is done by rarity (to the NY market), some by novelty. In my opinion, it is criminal to charge $26 for a 2oz serving of whiskey that retails at $35. And if you are willing to pay $8 for a 2oz serving of Rebel Yell, you get what you deserve.

-Matt

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