Irish Whiskey

Distillery Tour: Old Kilbeggan Distillery

October 9, 2012 / Richard / Distillery Tours, Irish Whiskey, Richard's Blog

Wow, it’s been a crazy summer. It’s already October and I’m just now getting back to the content from my trip to Ireland in May. Well, continuing from the post on The Old Jameson Distillery we’re off to Kilbeggan!

After our time in Dublin and the surrounding areas, my wife and I headed west on the N6 to Kilbeggan. It’s actually pretty easy to get there. Off the N6 you turn on to R389 and take that north to R446 headed west and the distillery is just down the road on the right. Heading into the quiet town of Kilbeggan we meandered down the main road until we came to The Old Kilbeggan Distillery/Kilbeggan Distillery Experience (formerly know and the Old Locke’s Distillery). If you are smart you aren’t racing down any of the Irish country roads but heading through Kilbeggan you can drive right past the distillery if you aren’t paying attention. Hang a right just past the distillery and the parking lot will be on your right behind the distillery.

As soon as you get out of the car you’ll see barrels off in the distance and smell that tell tale whiskey distillery aroma of distilled water of life, grain, and fermenting distiller’s bear/mash. Let’s take a moment to level set expectations. This is not where Cooley makes all their Kilbeggan. That facility isn’t open to the public. They make a very small amount of whiskey here. More of this site is still dedicated to the shuttered remnants of the Old Locke Distillery than the new active distillery operation. It’s not a deal breaker for a visit. I just want you to realize when you are outside the distillery that only a relatively small part of what you are looking at is actually devoted to active production. Also, most of the “tour” is the Old Locke’s part and you only get to see a little of what is used to make the new stuff. I’m not sure why the Irish are so shy about their production facilities but at the time of this post Bushmills is the only distillery doing a tour anywhere close to what bourbon and scotch fans have come to know.

So with that disclaimer out of the way let’s head around front from the parking lot and go inside. As you enter the front there is a lovely little bar to the right and a desk to the left where you pay your seven euros per person for the tour. At the time of my visit in May 2012 they were not taking plastic. Cash only so come prepared. Now that I think about it that’s a good general tip for traveling in Ireland, especially for plastic dependent Americans.

After you pay your euros you’ll get a copy of the tour guide. Yep. Not tour guides. It’s a paper packet with notes for the various numbered tour stations throughout the Old Locke’s Distillery. For those of you who have toured other active distilleries this is a little anti-climatic. It’s really more of a museum at this point than a distillery tour. (According to the website Kilbeggan now offers guided, self-guided, and group tours seven days a week. I guess I went for a visit a little too soon.)

Once you make your way through the museum portion you can head across the breezeway and up the stairs to a small area housing actual Cooley whiskey. You can head to the back and overlook the active still. (According to Cooley this is the oldest pot still in production.) That’s as close as you’re going to get to active production here. Head back downstairs and follow the signs to the gift shop. Here you can get your shot glasses, minis, and other Cooley/Kilbeggan swag.

After you stock up on souviners head back over to that bar you passed on the way in. Here you can get your dram of Kilbeggan included in the tour price. This is really a neat little bar. They also have Guinness on tap and you’re just as likely to be sitting next to a local having a pint as you are to be sitting next to a tourist. You can also buy minis and bottles of many different Cooley offerings. Special among these is the Distillery Reserve version of Kilbeggan. This is actually what’s being made here at the distillery. It’s young and it’s pricey. I bought a bottle. I kind of wish I hadn’t. If you really want one then I recommend waiting and picking one up duty free at the airport in Dublin. It’s A LOT cheaper.

All in all it’s an interesting little jaunt going to Kilbeggan. I wouldn’t plan a whiskey pilgrimage around it but if it’s on your way why not stop by for a visit. My hope is that they continue to expand this facility and open the Cooley Distillery in County Louth to tours. Until then this is as close as you’re going to get to the birthplace of Kilbeggan or Cooley whiskey.

Drink wisely my friends,

Richard

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Distillery Tour: The Old Jameson Distillery

July 10, 2012 / Richard / Distillery Tours, Irish Whiskey, Richard's Blog

The Old Jameson Distillery is located in Dublin. If you’ve never been to Dublin then let me tell you that in early May it can be rainy and cold as hell. In all fairness it was only in the upper 40’s when I was there but the drizzling rain and gusting wind made it feel much colder. So with that as my weather back drop my wife and I were looking for things to do inside while we were in Dublin. The Old Jameson Distillery fit the bill quite nicely. Honestly, my wife and I both love Irish whiskey so it wasn’t really a hard sell. The distillery is located in the Smithfield area of Dublin and is open for tours seven days a week. Tours runs every 25 minutes with the last one starting at 5:15 PM. Tickets are 13 Euros per person and that includes a drink of Jameson at the end. Unlike some Scottish distilleries the ticket price cannot be put toward any subsequent purchases in their gift shop.

If you decide to go for a visit you go in and get your tickets and then you wait. And wait. This is one of the top visitor attractions in Dublin. It’s big with the international crowd. You definitely won’t be the only foreigners there. Jameson is enjoyed around the world. You will likely be with other Americans, Germans, French, Russians, Japanese, and a whole host of others. Tours are generally conducted in English unless there is a tour group that makes other arrangements in advance. While you are waiting for your tour to begin you can do some early reconnaissance in the gift shop; have a drink of any of Irish Distillers fine whiskeys, cocktails, or Irish coffee in JJ’s bar; or head upstairs to the 3rd Still Restaurant for an a la carte meal. The restaurant is quite nice and all the staff throughout the distillery are very friendly and helpful.

Now they finally called your tour number. What are you going to see? First, let’s level set expectations a little bit. This used to be a distillery. Now it’s the Jameson Experience. Think of it like an homage to Jameson Whiskey. Spirit hasn’t flowed here since 1971, shortly after to merger in 1966 that created Irish Distillers from John Power & Son, John Jameson & Son, and Cork Distillery Company. The only “real” distillery tour (by bourbon and scotch standards) that you will find in Ireland now is up at Bushmills. Don’t let that dissuade you. It’s still a nice little joint. So with that we go on our tour. You start off with an intro speech from the tour guide and a video extolling the wonder that is Jameson Irish Whiskey. It’s a cute propaganda video that’s not too long and somewhat entertaining. After that you begin the tour proper. You are guided through the facility to different preset stations, each highlighting a different aspect of the whiskey making process. It’s not too exciting and anyone who regularly follows this site or reads up on whiskey probably won’t learn much.

At the end of the tour the guide will select six to eight people from each group to do a special tasting. As you are ushered into the tasting room most people will choose a Jameson beverage immediately to the right. You can get your Jameson straight up, with ginger ale, with cranberry juice, with Sprite, or over ice. Between my wife and me we got it neat and with ginger ale. Those individuals chosen for the special tasting will taste Jameson head to head with Jack Daniels and Johnnie Walker Black. The guide then takes a poll on who likes Jameson the best and presents the participants with a Whiskey Taster Certificate. You get a closing speech from the guide and then conveniently come out near the gift shop.

The gift shop was my favorite part. You can get all the Jameson gear you could want including t-shirts, sweaters, umbrellas, hats, chocolates, and a bunch more. You can also buy just about every whiskey Irish Distillers makes. The Distillery Reserve is an interesting pick as it’s only available at the The Old Jameson Distillery and The Old Midleton Distillery gift shops and you can get a bottle personalized. For everything else you would do better buying it at home or duty free because the prices (taxes) are steep.

That’s it. Is this a Mecca or utopia of Irish whiskey? No, but it’s a fun diversion if you are in Dublin and are inclined to go.

The Old Jameson Distillery
Bow Street, Smithfield, Dublin 7
353 1 807 2355
Open 7 Days a week from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM
3rd Still Restaurant open from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM

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Jameson Select Reserve

June 30, 2012 / Richard / Irish Whiskey, Review / Stands Out

Jameson Select Reserve Single Distillery Irish Whiskey
Small Batch (International)/Black Barrel (U.S.)
40% ABV/80 Proof
$40
Website

What the Distillery Says:
Whiskeys like Jameson Black Barrel don’t just happen by chance. Years of experience and skill go into the precise selection of whiskeys used in this intense and intriguing addition to the Jameson family.

The Jameson Masters carefully select a high proportion of single Irish pot still whiskey and a rare small batch grain whiskey, all matured in flame-charred bourbon barrels and toasted sherry casks.

The trademark Jameson notes of toasted wood and spice develop while the rich pot still whiskey matures in the dark, aromatic warehouses of our single distillery. The rare, sweet grain whiskey – not found in any other Jameson Whiskey – is triple distilled in small batch quantities on just one occasion each year.

This bold combination of charred barrels, deepened spices and exotic fruits, results in a dark and full-bodied taste experience that is completely unique and unmistakably Jameson. It took 232 years to get here, but we think you will agree that Jameson Black Barrel was worth the wait.
Tasting characteristics

NOSE – Rich and full, developing into the succulent sweetness of exotic fruits like nectarines, apricot and papaya.

TASTE – A burst of flavours combine to produce a creamy, luscious taste experience. The special fruity sweetness from the grain remains consistent, while the waves of vanilla, toasted wood and spices roll through from the pot still whiskey and flame charred barrels.

FINISH – An incredibly long finish with fruit and wood spices lingering in perfect proportion, delivering an extremely rich and luxurious taste experience.

What Richard Says:
Nose: Creamy and lightly sherried with lots of dried straw.
Palate: A richer mouth feel than regular Jameson. A little sweet at first and then you can see the pot still character shining through. I get stone fruit during the transition into the finish. Apricots for sure but others too. I just can’t pick them out.
Finish: Hot and woody at first. Bits of mint and a little nutty as the finish lingers.
Comments: Jameson with more pot still component? Yes please! Jameson only better would be the best description. For some reason this is “Small Batch” everywhere but the U.S. and “Black Barrel” here. I’m guessing it has to do with bottle labeling regulations put in place via bourbon but I don’t really know. I bought mine overseas and it says small batch but they are both the “Select Reserve.” I don’t know that it’s quite worth twice as much as regular Jameson but it’s worth trying if you’re a fan.
Rating: Stands Out

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Jameson Distillery Reserve

June 24, 2012 / Richard / Irish Whiskey, Review / Average

Jameson Old Irish Whiskey
The Old Jameson Distilery Reserve, Aged 12 Years

40% ABV/80 Proof
$50 to $55 depending on exchange rate
Only available at The Old Jameson Distillery in Dublin or The Old Midleton Distillery in Cork

What the Distillery Says:

John Jameson would be justly proud of this exclusive Distillery Reserve Whiskey that commemorates his famous Old Dublin Distillery.

What Richard Says:

Nose: There are little wisps of sulfur right out of the bottle but they fade quickly after pouring. From there it transitions into honey, cream, fresh cut grass, and pine cones.
Palate: Creamy with lots of butterscotch and dried straw. There’s also something in there that reminds me of honey drizzled unripened pears.
Finish: The finish here is surprisingly woody. It’s also a little hotter than I expected. Deep into the finish there’s an aftertaste reminiscent of canned pineapple juice. I’m talking about the cheap stuff they use to make pina coladas with in San Juan.
Comments: I’m a little underwhelmed with this. I wanted something more or something special. What this really tastes like is an older version of standard Jameson. For the money I would tell you to pick up the Special Reserve if you want a 12 year old Jameson. I guess the Distillery Reserve is “special” if you get a bottle personalized at the distillery but then again you have to pay extra for that.

Rating: Average

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Whiskey Shopping in Ireland (2012)

June 22, 2012 / Richard / Irish Whiskey, Richard's Blog

(Note – this was originally posted in 2012, so prices may have changed; but the gist still holds true)

As those of you who follow the Whisk(e)y Apostle Twitter feed know I recently went to Ireland with my wife for vacation. Among all the castles, Mesolithic burial mounds, and endless natural beauty I also tried to do a little whiskey tourism too. I know, go figure. I have plenty of great things to share with you but I thought I’d start off with shopping. No, I’m not talking about the couture shops in Dublin or that perfect Irish wool sweater. I’m talking about whiskey shopping. If I could put it into one sentence it would be this. Don’t buy Irish whiskey in Ireland.

Did that surprise some of you? Well, it surprised the hell out of me too. Let me elaborate. Given the variety of Irish whiskeys available in the U.S. and through other outlets you’re hard pressed to find too many Ireland only bottles. For the rest of the selection you’ll easily find better prices elsewhere. Taxes on Ireland’s native spirit are astronomical compared to what you’ll pay here. Let’s use a regular bottle of Jameson (750ml US/700ml International), the standard bearer for Irish whiskey.

• Jameson in the U.S. is around $20 a bottle. (Binny’s Chicago/Total Wine Atlanta)
• Jameson in Ireland (Dublin, Galway Killarney) is €24.50 or $30.64 VAT included.

Ouch! That’s about 50% more a bottle of plain old Jameson. It doesn’t get any better when you’re buying up to a bottle of Midleton Very Rare either. Even when you cut out the VAT (about $4) you’re still better off buying U.S. for any bottle of Irish whiskey you kind find here. There is a little relief buying Ireland than the U.K. but it’s still way more than buying stateside.

If you are going to buy Irish whiskey in Ireland and you’re not planning to drink it there my one piece of advice is this…duty free. That does limit you a bit. U.S. travelers are limited to one liter of duty free spirit per traveler when returning to the U.S. However, there are two key things you need to know about that. First, it’s irrespective of age. So if your kids are traveling with you too then you can use their liter allowance too. Second, in a lot of instances the paying duty is actually cheaper than pay VAT in Ireland.

Some of you might wonder about selection. There’s a lot of Irish whiskey in Ireland. You might not even realize how much the selection of Irish whiskey has expanded in recent years until you’re in a shop confronted by all of it. However, as most of these selections are available in the U.S. or online you might want to focus on the few you can’t here. Green Spot, Yellow Spot, Powers John Lane, and Midleton Barry Crocket are a few examples. Also, if you’re visiting distilleries they all tend to have a distillery only bottle that for obvious reasons you can’t get anywhere else. Be warned that the bottle offered at Kilbeggan can also be purchased for a LOT cheaper duty free. 😉 The distillery bottles really are the only “Ireland Only” bottles left out there. Everything else you should be able to get your hands on one way or another.

So if I had to sum it for you I’d say this. First, if you can get it here don’t try to buy it there. Second, the distillery exclusives are worth a look. Third, anything else should be purchased duty free at the airport on your way out. The Loop operates The Irish Whiskey Collection right after departure security in Dublin’s airport. They have everything you can get anywhere else in Ireland except that one bottle of Bushmills and one bottle of Jameson. The Irish Whiskey Collection is also the cheapest place in the Emerald Isle to buy the stuff. They also have a number of private bottlings of Cooley’s various whiskies that you can only get from them.

I hope this helps in your shopping preparation if you’re planning a trip to Ireland. It’s a lovely country with amazing people. You shouldn’t go without making the native spirit part of the fun!