May 2018

The Sexton Single Malt Irish Whiskey

The Sexton Single Malt Irish Whiskey
40% ABV
$30
Website
What the Bottler Says
The Sexton is a new and unexpected modern-day Irish Single Malt: rich in hue, approachable in taste and memorable in character. Matured in former Oloroso Sherry casks to achieve a perfect balance between rich, dried fruits and memorable toasted oak notes. The Sexton offers a smooth finish to leave you wanting for more.

The Sexton is crafted using 100% Irish malted barley and triple distilled in copper pot stills resulting in smooth, light and fruit-forward spirit.

Our spirit is matured in hand-selected barrels from European oak, toasted from the inside to a medium-high char and seasoned with Oloroso Sherry.

NOSE: At first honeyed malt, nuts and dark chocolate followed by marzipan, all spice and fruits
TASTE: Clean and mellow honey malt and then the taste complexity reveals itself – rich, dried spices, nuts and sweet oils
FINISH: A pleasant gentle wood with honey sweetness fading slowly

What Gary Says
Nose:  Wow – intense nose! Rich and thick, sherry forward with dark fruits over a young malt with some vegetal notes; a hint of cinnamon, sea air, and acetone.
Palate:  Softer and less intense than the nose; sherried but a tad bitter with a fair amount of tannic/oaky notes; a bit nutty with hints of cocoa and cereal.
Finish:  Short with trailing oak notes.
Comments:  This has a really richly intense nose, and reminds me more of a highland single malt Scotch (which I mean as a compliment by the way!) The palate was less intense than the nose. While not objectionable, it left me wanting for more of that sweet sherry and dark fruit that the nose telegraphed. It reminds me more of a younger single malt scotch than Irish – where the sherry is more dominant on the nose than the palate. Definitely a unique addition to Irish whiskey, and if you’re a scotch fan that hasn’t found an Irish dram that hits you right – this could be your gateway/crossover pour – and quite satisfying at this price point.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Articulate Productions for sending us a sample to review.

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“Never had [insert new whiskey], how do I know if I might like it?”

Regardless of where you are in your whiskey journey, we’ve all encountered the conundrum of wondering if we might or might not like a whiskey we haven’t tried yet. Wouldn’t it be amazing to KNOW before we lay down our hard-earned (or however you make it) money?

Spoiler alert – there isn’t a foolproof plan outside actually trying it (and trying it only once isn’t foolproof!) But fear not – there are ways to hedge your bet!

For starters – you need to know what you like, and have some idea of what it is about it you like. Consider the following aspects:

  1. Do you like that particular style of whiskey? (e.g., bourbon vs rye vs Irish)
  2. Do you like another similar product from the same distillery? (e.g., Jim Beam, Laphroaig)
  3. Do you like that type of mashbill – if it is known or disclosed? (e.g., high-rye bourbon vs wheated bourbon)
  4. If the whiskey is finished or aged in a unique wood, have you enjoyed whiskies in that same wood (e.g., single malt aged in sherry vs bourbon finished in port)
  5. Do you like that type of whiskey with a similar age? (e.g., Elijah Craig 12 yr vs Elijah Craig 20 yr)

If you are a whisky geek like me, answers to these questions aren’t that simple. Hell it would be easier to detail what I don’t like, although no less important to answering the ultimate question.

Here’s a recent example to try to illustrate the process I go through. Old Overholt Bonded Straight Rye Whiskey is a new product I haven’t had (yet), but saw it on a shelf for $25. Before just grabbing it – I considered what I know about my own likes/dislikes.

Q: Do I like rye whiskey?
A: Abosfreakinglutely.
That’s a good start. If I didn’t like rye, I could probably stop right here (which doesn’t mean I wouldn’t like it, but chances are if I don’t like a category, I’m less likely to like any random product within it).

Q: Do I like similar products from Jim Beam?
A: Yes and no.
This is where it gets more challenging. Beam makes several rye whiskies (Jim Beam Rye, Old Overholt, Knob Creek Rye, and (ri)1 Straight Rye). I like Knob Creek Rye, but not the others. In fact, Old Overholt and (ri)1 are two that I flat out dislike.

Knowing I don’t like the standard Old Overholt, why bother considering this new variation? We’ll get to that shortly.

Q: Do I like this type of mashbill?
A: Yes, but . . .
Beam doesn’t disclose their mashbill, but based on information from several reliable sources – all of their rye whiskey is distilled from the same mashbill of 51% rye. Sometimes these are referred to as “barely legal” ryes. A rye with a similar mashbill that I really enjoy is Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond. Granted, that’s a different distiller – and since I’ve tried Beam’s mashbill in similar products, that’s more important. Why think about mashbill? In other scenarios, maybe I’ve never tried anything from that distiller (but if they disclose the mashbill, that provides at least some insight). I’ll tell you right now – if I read that Four Roses were offering a straight rye whiskey, if it weren’t ridiculously priced – that’d be an auto-purchase for me; despite never having had that mashbill from them.

Q: Is the whiskey finished/aged in unique wood?
A: Nope.
But as a “straight rye” I know it was aged in new, charred oak. This question is more likely to come up with scotch, although cask finishes for bourbon and rye have become more popular in recent years.

Q: Do I like rye whiskey of a similar age?
A: Yep.
As a “bonded” straight whiskey, I know it is at least 4 years old (and likely not more or they’d take advantage of that and advertise it on the label). The “bonded” also tells me that it is at least 50% abv (or 100 proof). Do I like that? Hells yeah – Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond is one of my standard go-to rye whiskies. I find that rye whiskey develops more character at a young age compared with bourbon or other whiskies (which isn’t to say I wouldn’t love a little more age than 4 years).

This right here is what still has me curious. I like rye whiskey, I generally don’t care for most of Jim Beam’s rye whiskey (although I do like Knob Creek rye), and I really don’t care for Old Overholt standard 3 year old straight rye. But throw another 20 proof points and a year of age in . . . and I’m curious.

Knowing what I know about both what I like and what this product is – can I predict that I’ll enjoy it and not regret the purchase? Unfortunately – nope. At best, I can guess that I might like it. The higher proof and extra year give me some hope, but not caring for most of the other ryes from Beam (and in particular the other with the Old Overholt name on it) gives me pause.

The easiest way is to skip all of the analytical bullsh!t and the simply try it. Why even bother with trying to figure out if you might like something short of simply trying it? I’ll tell ya: there is simply too much whiskey and too little time (not to mention too many miles I’d have to walk to burn it off!) I personally find that the time taken to assess and calculate whether or not I might like something saves me some searching to either buy or try products that ultimately I’m not going to enjoy – not to mention saving me money from buying whole bottles of stuff I won’t enjoy.

Is all of this too much thinking and not enough drinking? Maybe – to each their own. But spending way too much time thinking about whiskey . . . sorta our thing. If laying this out can help one fellow whiskey apostle out there from buying a bottle they later find they wouldn’t have liked, it’s all been worthwhile.

Cheers!
Gary

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Glendalough Mizunara Finish 13 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Glendalough Mizunara Finish 13 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey
46% ABV
$110 – 120
Website

What the Distillery Says
This winner of World Best Irish Whiskey, is now the first, and only, Irish Whiskey released with a Japanese mizunara finish.

Extremely rare, and expensive, virgin Japanese mizunara, comes from Hokkaido, the rugged most northern island of Japan. It is coopered in the south of Japan in Miyazaki Prefecture in Japan’s only independent cooperage, by Japan’s oldest cooper. It amplifies much of what is already there while layering on more vanilla smoothness, sandlewood notes and even a little coconut, or gorse flower if you’re from our neck of the woods.

This is a whiskey that’s hard to make. It is unique in terms of what is being done with Irish whiskey and it is very limited. This is one to savor.

The nose: Sweet honeycomb, vanilla, apricot, and citrus.
The taste: Velvety smooth with vanilla, fudge, rock candy, peach and marmalade followed by coconut, cinnamon and cloves.
The finish. Long and spicy with biscuit malts, vanilla, oak and dark chocolate.

What Gary Says
Nose:  Clean and crisp malt, with a slight sour oak note over a hint of citrus-infused sake.
Palate:  Softer entry than expected from the nose; subtle creamy vanilla flan with drizzled honey and cinnamon dusted nuts before picking up with some pepper spice on the backside.
Finish:  A bit short and drying with some pepper notes.
Comments:  This is an interesting dram. If trying blind, I’d have guessed that this was finished in some type of former wine cask (and specifically sake). I wish I had some of Glendalough 13 yr to compare with in order to really narrow in on the cask finish influence. As pointed out in my review of their 7 yr single malt finished in Black Pitts porter casks, Glendalough’s goal of challenging expectations for Irish whiskey was definitely achieved here. I applaud them for their innovation and trying new things. While this doesn’t hit me squarely in my wheelhouse, I applaud their innovation and urge Glendalough to continue trying new things.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Glendalough for sending us a sample to review.

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Glendalough Black Pitts Porter Finish 7 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Glendalough Black Pitts Porter Finish 7 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey
46% ABV
$50 – 60
Website

What the Distillery Says
Our 7 year old single malt commemorates the 7 hard years that St Kevin (the guy on the bottle) spent in the wild, and the city of 7 churches he came to build at Glendalough. This single malt has too been shaped by 7 years, and to make it even more special, we finish it in porter barrels.

Dublin is famous across the world for fine stout and porter. We’ve swapped barrels over the years with friends of ours in a local craft brewery, and found their Black Pitts Porter brings our whiskey to incredible depths. Made from roasted, chocolate malt, it really amplifies the malt in the whiskey while bringing dark, rich flavours like cocoa, chocolate and coffee. Their porter spends a year in oak barrels, then we take them and put our 7 year old single malt in for just under a year.

Also, have a look on the label, you’ll see 7 silver crosses. These will lead you to each of the 7 churches, should you ever be stirred into going to Glendalough.

Tasting Notes:
Nose – “Sweet with toffee apples, chocolate and vanilla ice cream.”
Palate – “Smooth and warm with dark chocolate orange, cocoa, toffee and cooked fruit, followed by clove and peppery spices.”
Finish – “Long and spicy with toasted oak, treacle and sweet coffee notes.”

What Gary Says
Nose:  Sweet cereal mash, vanilla with a hint of mint & herbs (maybe thyme?)
Palate:  Crisp but sweet beer malt and caramel cremes, develops a slight spice edge (cinnamon and hint of fruit) as it goes.
Finish:  Short to moderately long, drying with a beer aftertaste.
Comments:  I’m not a beer drinker (I mean – I try different beers every few years to check in with my palate, but just don’t enjoy them). With that, I offer my apologies that I can’t be more specific here – but this definitely brings out a “beer” vibe for me. The nose reminds me of distiller’s beer – if you’ve ever toured a distillery, that smell in the fermentation vats. Whiskey Advocate states that Glendalough’s goal with these new wood finish expressions is “to create different flavor profiles than expected for Irish whiskey.” Mission accomplished! This is certainly a unique Irish whiskey; if given blindly – I wouldn’t have immediately thought “Oh, Irish single malt”. The influence from the porter cask finish gives it a different flavor and finish.
Rating: Stands Out

We would like to thank Glendalough for sending us a sample to review.

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Pitching In

Some whiskey blogs have helped me sort out whether or not I might like a whiskey, or educated me about some new (or old) distillery. This blog has helped me in ways I can’t begin to count. In 2012 (only six years ago, but feels way longer) I reached out to Richard to ask for more information about a post that mentioned the ‘Georgia Bourbon Society’. I had done much of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail the year before, and was still pretty new to whiskey in general. He recommended I get on StraightBourbon.com for more information, which I did. Long story short – I can trace more friendships than I can shake a stick at to this whiskey blog, not to mention countless evenings spent with amazing people and some pretty good whiskey.
When Richard asked me if I’d be interested in helping out with some reviews a couple years later, I jumped at the opportunity. Not only did I get to try some new, cool, interesting (ok – sometimes ‘meh’) whiskies, it helped me identify and appreciate different flavors, aromas, textures – and learn more about what I like. Any time he mentions that he has a sample for me, I get excited and can’t wait for the chance to try it and do my best to capture the experience in a review.

So when Richard asked me if I’d be interested in taking on a more active role with the stewardship of the site, I jumped to my phone to google “stewardship”, and then said absolutely. What he and Matt built here is extraordinary, and I’m looking forward to keeping it going. I’m a big believer in “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, so you won’t see a lot of changes around here. What you will continue to see are guys who love whiskey and love proselytizing the way of the malt. I hope you enjoy reading it – whether it is to answer a question, research a potential purchase, or help figure out what you might or might not like.

Cheers!
Gary

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