Last night, I hopped the E train down to Tribeca for some whisky and conversation (way better than tea and sympathy btw). The Brandy Library and Adam Jacobs of Total Beverage Solution was hosting a tasting of four Tullibardine single malts.
Despite being located on the side of Scotland’s oldest brewery (circa 12th century), Tullibardine is a Highland distillery that you don’t hear about much here in the States. This is due in part to being mothballed from 1995-2003. Luckily, the distillery was in pretty good shape and there were a lot of casks just waiting to be bottled.
Tullibardine Vintage 1993
(15 years in 1st fill bourbon casks, no caramel coloring, chill-filtered, 43% ABV)
This is Tullibardine’s “benchmark” expression and arguably the most unique in the range. I get a lot of citrus from both the nose and the palate. Specifically, it’s like the pith of a pink grapefruit; slightly tart, slightly sweet, and crisp. The cereal notes are also very prominent. When you add in the floral and vanilla notes, it’s like a hearty country breakfast.
Tullibardine Vintage 1993 Oloroso Sherry Finish
(15 years old, about 15 months in sherry butts, non chill-filtered, no caramel coloring, 46% ABV)
Despite the higher proof, this whisky is not “hot” by any means. The elements that make Tullibardine unique are still present, but with added elements of toffee, dark fruits and spice. If you threw some haroset* into your country breakfast, this is what you’d get.
Tullibardine Vintage 1992
(16 years old, a marriage of mostly 1st fill bourbon casks with some sherry hogsheads, non chill-filtered, no caramel coloring, 46% ABV)
Here is where we lose some of the unique Tullibardine-ness. Don’t get me wrong; this is a really nice whisky. However, it’s very generic. Vintage 1992 could easily have come from a number of other Highland distilleries. The cereal notes are still there, there is a lot more sherry influence, but the citrus is muted almost to extinction.
Tullibardine Vintage 1988
(20 years old, a 50/50 marriage of 1st fill bourbon casks and sherry hogsheads, non chill-filtered, no caramel coloring, 46% ABV)
The extra age and slightly different blend resuscitates the citrus (and the whisky). Vintage 1988 is rich and smooth, like a bolder version of the ’93 Oloroso Finish, but retains the vibrancy of the standard ’93 vintage.
I really enjoyed the uniqueness of Tullibardine, but there’s a catch. All of the whiskies in this line-up where distilled under the previous ownership. What’s to say that the new Tullibardine whiskies will be anything like these? Will there still be that grapefruit vibrancy or will the taste profile become more generic like so many other malts that fall within a somewhat narrow range of deviation? Only time will tell. Thanks to Adam from Total Beverage Solution and Ethan Kelly at Brandy Library for playing host.
*Haroset (or charoset) is a blend of fruits, nuts, and spices that people of the Jewish faith eat during Passover to symbolize the mortar used during the years of slavery in Egypt. I’m specifically referring to the Middle Eastern style that uses figs, dates, raisins and walnuts mixed with cinnamon and sweet wine.
-Matt
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