Last night, I had the opportunity to try a “white whiskey” from small craft distillery in Madison, WI. Death’s Door (named for the waterway that runs between Washington Island and the Door County peninsula) produces gin, vodka, and whiskey in small batches for a variety of markets here in the US. They only recently came to NYC. I did not try the vodka, the gin was passable (interesting, but still a lightweight in the world of craft gins). Since this is a whisk(e)y blog after all, let’s talk about the whiskey.
As you all know, I am huge advocate of the craft distillery movement. Craft distilleries are raising the bar for all sorts of distilled spirits and whiskey is no exception. However, innovation and experimentation do not always lead to greatness. There are always stumbling blocks.
Death’s Door has an interesting operation. All of their spirits are distilled in the same 90 gallon copper pot still using locally sourced materials (including water from Lake Michigan). The White Whiskey is double distilled, “rested” for three weeks (I assume in a stainless steel vat) and then conditioned in small oak barrels for less than 72 hours (hence the whiskey remains clear or “white”). The rep at the tasting could not tell me anything about the mash bill (she didn’t even know what that meant). When I explained, she said rye (from the taste, a lot of it), wheat, and “something else, but no corn.” The literature from the distillery just says “organic grains.”
The whiskey is interesting, but not my cup of tea. The nose is a little like tequila (I hate tequila). The palate is somewhere between a rye and a tequila. The short aging does not give the whiskey enough time to take much from the oak. On the plus side, the harsher elements of the rye are tempered by the other components of the mash bill. The mash bill may be a winner with a little more time in the barrel. It certainly shows potential.
If you’ve ever said to yourself, “I like the smoothness of aged ryes, but I don’t care for all that oak,” then check this out. If you are a tequila drinker looking for a transition into whiskey, this could be your gateway dram. For me, this is nothing more than a novelty act.
I applaud the effort, especially the terroir approach and sense of experimentation. Not my bag though. There are much better craft whiskeys out there. I hope that these guys continue to experiment with their whiskeys. Maybe they will hit on something truly sensational.
Death’s Door White Whiskey will set you back around $35 and is available in limited markets (Chicago and New York for sure). For more information on availability or just to learn more about their operation visit www.deathsdoorspirits.com.